HAYNES SERVICE & REPAIR MANUAL 441573.- ‘35“ THE: :vafi \fi 7” $9“? . 391 9 "LEM/65W Transom ““750 Alrica Win A, ’87 to ’02 - Peflormanne data - Model “Haynes Manuals iust cannot be beaten” hismrv - Wivlno diagrams MOIOV Cycle NEWS - Tools and workshop has IN FULL COLOUR Honda This PDF has been prepared to make it possible to go on tour with the whole workshop manual on a CD-ROM only. Please note that the material is copyright protected. and that users should obtain an original copy. Digitalized by K.K. with thanks 01 Al. for providing the media. XL600/650V Transalp & XRV750 Africa Twin Service and Repair Manual by Matthew Coombs (3979 . 336) Models covered XL600V Transalp. 583cc. 1987 to 1999 XL650V Transalp 64790. 2000 to 2002 XRV750 Africa Twint 742cc. 1990 to 2002 e Haynes Publishing 2002 new A book In the haynes Service and Repair Manual Series All rights reserved. Nu part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any 16"" or by any means, electranic or mechanical, Including photaeopying. recording or by any inlormalion slorage or retrieval system. without psrmlsslon in writing {mm the copyright holder. ISBN I 85960 919 8 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record tar [his book Is available hum the British Library Printed in the USA Haynes Publishing Sparklord, Veovll. Somerset BA22 m. England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drlve. Newbuw Park. California 5132a USA Editions Haynes SJL 4, Rue de I‘Ahreuvoir. 92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX. France Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Box 1504. 751 A5 UPPSALA, Sweden LIVING WITH YOUR HONDA Introduction The Binh of a Dream Page 0-4 Acknowledgemsnie Page 0-9 About Ihis manual Page 0-9 Model deveiopment Page 0-9 Bike spec Page 0'10 Performance data Page 0-13 Idenlillcatlon numbers Page 0-13 Buying spare parts Page 0-14 SaIety first! Page 0-15 Daily (pre—ride) checks Engine/transmission oll levsi check Page 0-16 Coolant level check Page 0-17 Diec brake fluid leyel checks Page 0-18 Drum brake checks Page 0-19 Tyne checks Page 0-20 Suspension, steen'ng and drive chain checks Page 0-20 Legal and safety checks Page 0-20 MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Specifications Page 1-1 Recommended lubricants and Iiuids Page 1-2 Mainlenance schedule Page 1-3 Component locations Page 1-4 Maintenance procedures Page 1 '1 REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine, transmission and associated systems Engine. clutch and transmission Page 201 Cooling system Page 3-1 Fuel and exhaust systems Page 4-1 Ignition system Page 5-1 Chassis components Frame, suspensian and final drive Page 6-1 Brakes. wheels and tyres Page 701 Fairing and bodywork Page 8-1 Electrical system Page 9-1 Wiring diagrams Page 9-34 REFERENCE Tools and Workshop Tips Page REF-2 Security Page REF-20 Lubricants and fluids Page REF-23 Conversion factors Page REF-26 MOT Test Checks Page REFOZ‘I Storage Page REF-32 Fault Finding Page REF-35 Fault Funding Equipment Page REF-45 Technical Terms Explained Page REF-49 Index Page REF°53 0-4 introduction Birth of a Di’méam by Julian Ryder There is no hatter example or the Japanese post-war industrial miracle than Honda. Like other companies which have become household names. it startod with one man‘s vision. In this case the man was the 4Dryear old SOlChIIO Honda who had sold his piston—ring manutacturing business to Toyota in 1945 and was happily spending the proceeds on prolonged parties for his lrtends. Honda [:70 and (:90 OHV-engined models However, the dillioulties ol getting around in the chaos of postwar Japan irked Honda. so when he came across a job lol or generator engines he realised that here was a way of getting people mobile again at low cost. A 12 by la-loot shack in Harnainatsu became his tirsl bike rectory. titling the generator motors Into pushbikes. Before long he‘d used up all 500 generator motors and started manuracturlng his own engine. known as the ‘chlmne’y', either because of the elongated cylinder head or the smoky exhaust nr perhaps both The chimney made all of hair a horsepower from Its 5D CC engine but it was a major success and became the Honda A-tvpe. Less than two years alter he'd set up in Hamamatsu. Soichi‘ro Honda launched the Honda MUIUr Company in September l948. By then. the A~rype had been developed into the 90 cc E-type engine, which Mr Honda decided deserved its own chassis not a bicycle trams. Honda was about IO become Japan's lirst post—war manufacturer of complete motorcycles. In August 1949 [he lirst prototype was ready. With an output or three horsepower. the 98 co [Hype was still 2| Simple two-stroke but it had a tworspeed transmission and most importantly a pressed steel frame with telescuplc lurks and hard tall rear and. The trams was almost triangular in profile with the top rail going in a straight llne from the massively braced steering head to the rear axle. Legend has it that after the D»tvpe‘s first tests the entire worklorce went for a drink to celebrate and try and think or a name for the bike. One man broke one of those silences you get when people are lhinklrlg, exclalming ‘This is Ilke a dreaml' 'That’s ltl' shouted Honda. and so the Honda Dream was christened. 'This is like :1 dl‘eam!‘ ‘Thztt‘s il‘ shouted Honda r Honda was a brilliant. lntuitlvo M engineer and designer out he did not bother himsell with the marketing side at his buSlnEES. With hindstght. lt is possible to see that employing Taken Fujisawa wllo would both sort out the home market and plan the eventual expansion into overseas markets was a masterslroke. He arrived in October l349 and in 1950 was made sales Director, Another vital new name was Ktyosl’ll Kawashima. who along with Honda himsell. designed the company's first lounstrcke after Kawashima had told them that the lourvsmake opposition to Honda's twosstrokes sounded nicer and therefore sold better. The result (N that statement was the overhead-valve 148 ct: E-type whlch first ran in July 1951 lust two months shot the first drawings were made, Kawashirna was made a director of the Honda Company at 34 years old. The E-type was a masslvs success. over 32,000 were made in 1953 alone. a teat Ol mass-production that was astounding by the Introduction 0-5 slandards oi the day given the relative complexity or the machine But Honda's Ilialong pursuit oi technical innovation sometimes distracted l’llm tram commercial reality Fuiisawa pointed out that they were in danger oi ignorlrlg their care bustliesst the motorised hlcycles that still formed Japan's main means or transport in May 1952 (he F-type Cub appeared, another two-stroke despite the top men's reservations, You could buy a complete machine or lust the motor to attach to your own bicycle. The result was certainly distinctive‘ a white fuel tank wllh a clrcular profile wenl just below and behind the saddle on lhe left of [he Dike. and the motor with IIS hurlzontal cylinder and bright red cover lust below the rear axle on me same Slde of the bike. This was me machlne that turned Honda into the biggest blke maker ln Japan with 70% 0' the market for bolt-on bicycle motorsl the Frlype was also the first Honda to be exponed, Nexl came the machine that would turn Honda into the biggest motorcycle manufacturer in the world, The CIDU Super Cub was a typically audacious piece oi Honda engineering and marketing. For Irle llrsl lime, but nm the last Honda invented a completely new type or motorcycle allhougrl [he lerrn 'scooterene‘ was mined to describe the new bike which had many or the characlerlslics or a scooter But the large wheels and therefore Slabllily, or a motorcycle The first one was sold In August 1958. fifteen years later aver nine—million of [item were on the roads 0! the world ll ever a machine can be said to have brought mobility to lhe masses it IS (he Super Cub. ll you add The CB250N Super Dream became a favorite with UK learner riders at the lam sevenrlas and early eighties in the electric starter that was added lor the 0102 model oi lest, the design at the Super Cub has remained substantially unchanged ever since, testament to how right Hunda got it ilrst “mm The Super Cub made Honda the world‘s biggest manufacturer after lust two years or production. 1957 when Britain and Holland got their rst bikes America gol iusl two bikes the next year. By 1952 Honda had halt the American market wllh 65000 Sales. But Soichiro Honda had already travelled abroad to Europe and the USA. making a special I I onda's export drive started in earnest in o-e Introduction earl Fogarty in action at the Suzuka 8 Hour on the new An early c5750 Four point at going to the isle at Man T‘r, then the most important race in the GP calendar He realised that no matter how advanced his products were. only racing success would convince overseas markets tor whom ‘Made in Japan' still meant cheap and nasty it took live years trcm Soichlre Honda‘s rirst visrt to me Island before I’IlS bikes ware ready '07 (he n. In 1959 the tactery entered live riders in the 125 class. They did not have a massive impact on the event berng henevolently regarded as a curiosity, hut sixth. seventh and eighth were good enough ter the team prize. The dikes were oh the pace but they were well engineered and very reliable The TT was the only time the West saw the Hondas in ‘59, but they came back lot more the tollowi'ng year with the iirst or a generation at bikes which shaped the luture oi motorcycling , the doubleacvetheadscam [curacyllndet 250 it was last and ieliable , it revved to H.000 rpm — but didn't handle anywhere near as well as the oppdstticn However. Honda had now signed up non- Japanese riders to lead their challenge. The tirst Wm dldn't spine until 1962 [Aussie Tom Phillis in the Spanish 125 GP) and was lollowed up With a worldashaklng Den‘or» inance at the TI'. Twentyeone year old Mike t-lallwodd won both 125 and 250 cc We and Hondas lllled the (up flve posmons In both races Solchlro Hunda‘s master plan was starting to CNN? to lmillani Hallwood and Honda won the 1951 250 cc World Championship. Nexl year Honda won three titles. The ether Japanese lactdries ldught bach and inspired Honda to produce seine ol the most tascinating racers ever seen the awesome slx~cyllnder 250, the live-cylinder 125. and the 500 tour with which the immortal Hailwaod battled Agosttni and the MV Agusta hen Honda pulled out at racing in '67 Wthey had won sixteen rider's titles, eighteen manulacturer's titles, and 137 GPs, including 15 TF5. and introduced the concept at the modern works team to motorcycle racing. Sales success tollowed racing victory as Soich‘iro Honda had predicted, but only because the products advanced as rapidly as the racing machinery The Hondas that came to Britain in the early ‘605 were lnCredIbly sophisticated They had overhead cams where the aritrsh otkes had pdshreds. they had electric starters when the Brits relied on the kickstarl. they had 12v electrics when even the biggest Brltlsh Dike used a sv system There seemed no end to the technical Wizardry it wasn't that the technology itselt was so amazing out just like that first Estype. it was the tact that Honda could massepmduce it more leliably than the tower-tech competition that was so astonishing, When in 1955 the tirst tour-cylinder {33750 road bike arrived the world or motorcycling changed tor ever. they even had to invent a new word tor it. ‘Superblke'. Honda raced again with the c5750 at Daytona and won the Introduction 0-7 World Endurance lllte with a prototype DOHC version that oecame the CEQDO roadsten There was the slxncyllnder sex. the cxsoor a the worid‘s tirst turbocharged production bike. li’ley invented lhe lulladress tower with the Goldwing, and came hack to GPs with the revolutlonary oval»pisiorled NFlSOD VDulr stroke. a mtlchamlsundcrstood bike that was more a rolllng experimental laboratory than a racer. Just |n show [new versatillly Honda 8‘50 came up with the weird cxson shah—drive V-{wm a rugged workhorse that powered a new industry. the courier companies that oiled the wheels or commerce in London and other big cities lt was true. though. that Mr Honda was not keen on two'strokes ~ early motocross engines her: to he explalrled away to him as lawnmower mmcrs! However. in 1932 Honda raced the NSEOO. an agile lllreencylinder lightweight againsi the big [curacyilnder opposition in 500 GPS. the hike won in its iiist year and in ‘33 took the world title lor Freddie Spencer, ln fourastroke racing the v4 layout took over lrom the straight tour. dominating TL F1 and Endurance Championships with the RVF750. the nearest thing ever built to a Formula 1 car on wheels And when Superhike arnved Honda were ready with the R030 0n Ihe roads the VFR v4 oecame an lrlsiant classic whlis [he CBHBUU lnvemeu another new class or hike on its way lo becomlng a bestseller. The v4 road bikes had problems to start with but the VFRYSO sold world-wide over its liletinie while the VFRAUU became a massive commercial success and cult hike in Japan The original REED won the ilrSl two World Stlperblke Championships is was and ‘89. out Honda hat) to Walt Until 1997 to win it again wllh the HCAS. the last ot the v4 roadsters, In Grands PM. the NSRSOU v4 two-stroke superseded the NS triple and became the benchmark racing machine or the ‘905 Mick Doohan secured his place in history by Winning two World Champlonshlps in consecutive years on Ii. n yet another example at Honda inventing a I new class ol motorcycle they came up wltri the astoundtrtg CBRBDOHR Fir-calade, a hike wlth the punch oi a 1000 cc motor tn a package the size and weight at a 750, It became a cult hike as well as a best seller. and with yuolcious redesigns continues to give much more recenl designs a run let their money, When It became apparent that the high» lech v4 motor of the R045 was too expensive to produce. Honda looked to a anwln engine ‘0 power lls flagship lor the ilrsl lime. Typically, the VTFHOUO Firesmrm was a much more rideahle machine than its opposition and once accepted oy lhe market termed the hasis ot the next generation ol Superoike racer. the VTFt-SF'J One ol Mr Honda’s mottos was that technology would solve the customers orohterns, and no company has emoraaed The CX500— Honda's first V- Twin and a iavurha choice cf dispatch riders cuttingvedge technology more firmly than Honda. in loot Honda olren developed new technology. especially in the lields ol materials science and metallurgy. 'Hle embodlment of that was the NR75lJ, a bike that was misunderstood nearly as much as the original NRSUD racer, This limitededitton technological toursdenfcice embodied many or Soichtro Honda's ideals. lt used the latest techniques and materials in every component. lrom the oval piston. azavalve v4 motor to the titanlum coating on the windscreen. it was , as Mr Honda would have wanted , the best it could pussibiy ue. A filtillg nieiilorlal to llre man who has shaped the motorcycle industry and motoroyles as we know them today Honda Transalp 8t Africa Twin hen Honda announce that they have the world tends to “link of the lnltlais CB. VFR and NR imagine. then, the Coniuslon the world's press fell on being conironted wtth the Transalo and being told that it was a ‘Raiiy Tourer’. This was 1987 and \ne Pal'ls- Dakat rally llad already spawned kIIUUlJIY' The VFR-toort was a cult bike in Japan and a popular grey import in the UK 0-5 Introduction The 1995 XLGODV-W Transalp tyred race-replicas like the Yamaha Tenérét the [like that sold over 10‘000 urilts in SlX months on Continental Europe. But Honda. being Honda. didn‘l serve up a replica of their mighty NXR750 works desert race. in tact the only thing the mm and the Tralisalp XLSUUV had in common was the V iwln configuration oi their engines, Just like the iirst VFW/50. the that Transalp was decidedly understated. plain even This was, at course. an attempt to get away from the already burgeoning obsession with sponsters in several important markets by reinventing the ali»round motorcycle in a nonaboring iashron o this end. they bored and stroked the I VTsoo's motor and titted it in a steel duplex-cradle lranto wttti good quality suspension at both ends The lorks had an nit-road lriendly eight inches oi movement and the rear shock over seven. out the rider got the son oi comprehensive instrumentation you only saw on a top-end road bike plus the sort oi powerrul brakes that are more oi a The1998 xnwmw Africa Twin hindrance than help on dirt suriaces, The Transaip could he taken of! load out rio-one in their right mind would buy one tor trail riding, however the plush suspension and comfortable power delivery worked portectly on the sort oi poiahoied. gravel strewn minor roads that characterise much oi the mrai parts oi countries like Fiance and italy, Not that the Transalp was a slouch on good tarmac, Honda were coniident enough to launch it alongside the new CBRs at the Suzuka Circuit where it was suretooted enough round the twtsty hits to hang on to the tours wrllioul any dramas Contemporary tests Show that the bike impressed and coniused in equal measure but the Transatp while not teshionaple did do what it was meant to and consequently sold steadily over the years. It‘s a measure oi ,ust now right it was that it has changed so little through its lite. For the that ten years oi its lite the xtotmv Transaip dtdn‘t alter noticeably apart irorn the rear brake graduating trom a drum to a disc in 1991. in t997 production moved irom Japan to Honda's ltatian plant and you can recognise that year’s vsv model py the twin iront Brembo calipers replacing the Japanese Nissln units. That was lust the prequel to the Transalp‘s only malot rnodiilcotlone. The year 2000 XLGSOV-Y got a 550 cc motor in a totally new- look motormycle The suspension and wheels stayed the same but hodywork instrumentation, electrical systems and lights were all changed to bring the styling up to date. European concerns were also addressed wtll’i the Vimng 09 Honda’s HiSS immobiliser and PAIR emissmn control system We lied to wait until 1990 to iind out why Honda had so underplayao the PariSvDakar heritage of [he Transaip. for Ihat was when me Attica thn was unleashed, This was a real race replica with stratospheric seat height. suspension With what seemed like endless travel, a giant tutel tank twin trip meters and an aluminium chassis Here was something that looked and rode like the hikes that thrashed across the Sahara every January. The motor wasa bored and stroked version or the Transaip's v-twin. Note that there was an earlier \lerstun oi the Airica Twrn, the 1989 xnveso. although this was not imported into the UK. veryone agreed. here was a tantastic Emotorcycle, the suspension and brakes came in iot special praise, one that you could ride all day two-up in corrilort on anything trom autooahns to dirt tracks in typical Honda tashton the build quality was superb out there was rust one problem. price. in markets ilke the UK the Airica Twin cost more than a cameo and it didn't matter how good the bike was. the punters wouldn‘t pay that much tor a twin it‘s their loss, the Atrica Twin is a great motorcycle and has become a cult hike in countries like France and Germany where the Parierakar Rally is a highlight ot the sporting calender Model development 0-9 Acknowledgements Our thanks are due to Bransons Motorcycles or vaovil and GT Motorcycles or Yeavll who supplied the machines featured in the illustrations throughout this manual, We would also like to thank NGK Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd for supplying the colour spark plug condition photo-graphs, the Avon Rubber Company lor supplying lnlormatlon on tyre fitting and Draper Tools Ltd (or some ol the workshop tools shown. Thanks are also due In Julian Ryder who wrote the introduction ‘The birth at a Dream' and to Honda (UK) Ltd who supplied model photographs. About this Manual The aim or this manual lsto help you get the best value lrorn your motorcycle. It can do so in several ways. it can help you decide what work must be done. even it you choose to have it done by a dealer; it provides inloimation and procedures lcr routine maintenance and seerclrlg; and it offers diagnostic and repalr procedures to rollow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle lne work yourself. For many simpler jobs. doing it youreetl may be quicker than arranging an accolntment to gel the motorcycle into a dealer and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More imponantly. e loi ol money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labour and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense or satislaction and accomplishment that you reel after doing the lob yoursell. References to the left or right Side of the motorcycle assume you are sitting on the seat. facing forward We take great pride In the accuracy or inionnsrion given in this manual, but motorcycle manulacrurers make alterations and design changes during the production run era panrcular motorcycle or which they do not inlonn us. No liability can be: accepted by the authors or publishers for loss. damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions hum, HIE information given. Model development XLGOOV—H and V-J Transalp (1987 and 1988 model years) The flrst Transalp was the XLSOOV-H introduced in 1957. The Transalp has a 52" VrIWln cylinder engine with chain drive to its single overhead Camshafts which operate the two inlet and one exhaust valve per cylinder. The clutch is a conventional wet mulli-plate unit and the gearbox is 5-speed. Drive from the gearbox output shaft is transmltted to the rear Wheel by chain and sprockets. The cylinder heads have twln spark plugs. The engine is mounted in a box-section steel cradle frame. Suspension Is provided by conventional oil-damped telescopic lurks at (lie front. end a box-section aluminium swingarm acting on a single shock absorber via a three-way linkage at the rear. The shock absorber is edluslabie lor spring pie-load. Braking is by a single disc and twin—piston sliding caliper at the iron! and by a drum brake at the rear. The XLSflClV»l-l was available in while and melalllc blue. The XLSODV-J model for lQBB was un» changed, though was also available in beige. XLBOOV-K Transalp (1989 model year) Apart lrom a new inelrumenl cluster. modifications to the rear suspension llnkage. and the inclusion of a sidestand switch in the starter safety circult. the XLBOOV-K was unchanged lrorn the H and J models. Available in red and two shades 01 blue. The VaK model remained on sale in Ihe UK through to 1990. An XLSOUV-L model was available in Germany for the 1990 model year, but was basically unchanged lrom the v»K modal. XLGOOV-M Transalp (1991 model year) The external oil pipe on the engine was removed. with the oil teed to the head now being housed internally. The front brake caliper was changed. though it remains a twin~plston sliding type. made by Nissln. The hose arrangement to the caliper was also modified. At the rear the drum brake was replaced by an hydraulic system using a single-piston sliding caliper. and the wheel was therelore changed to accommodate a disc instead of a drum. Available in blue. green and silver. XLSDOV—N and P (1992 and 1993) models were basically unchanged mechanically. but were available in green. blue and maroon. XLGOOV-R Transalp (1994 and 1995 model years) A dilicrenl headlight was titled and the lairing was slightly restyied to compliment it, A spun adjuster was incorporated in the Front brake lover. The lroni brake caliper was again changed. making pad renewal easier. though it remains a twin-piston sliding type. made by Nissin. Available ln blue, grey and black XLGOOV—T Transalp (1996 model year) The (rent lurks were modified. with a spacer being removed and a longer spring being fitted. There were also modillcallons to the air duct. which now incorporates a resonator chamber and sub»alr lllters. The ignition system was modilled. with the twin coils per cylinder being replaced with e slrlgle coll per cylinder. each coil leading boih spark plugs. Available in blue. grey and red. XL600V—V Transalp (1997 model year) The from brake system was completely changed. Willi a twin disc system replacing the single disc. Brembo calipers replace the lesln. but are still oi the Min-piston sliding type Production of the Transalp now shifted lrorri Japan to Honda's (actory in ltaly. The ignition system was modllied. with the twin pulse generator coils being replaced With a single cell. Passenger gratHal'ls were added Available In black. red and beige. XLSODV-W and X (1996 and l999) models were unchanged. except (or colours. V-W (1998) models were avallable ln black. red and purple. and V»X (1999) models were available in red. green and blue. XL650V—Y, V—1 and V~2 Transalp (2000 to 2002 model years) A complete makeover sees the new Transalp Wiih an increased engine size. up from snocc tu 650cc. by way at an increased bore. Whilst the braking and suspension systems remain largely unchanged lrom the last or the XLSDDV models. with the exception of a new rear shock absorber that is now adiustable for compression damplng. instrumentation. rairing. bodywork. seat (now lockable). turn signals. tall light and headlight are all new UK models come titted as standard with Honda's ‘HlSS' immobiliser system A PAIR emission control system is also titted as standard to reduce CO emlsslons. Minor modifications were made to the transmission shafts and cerbureflnrs. and many components (lusebox. thermoslat housing etc) were relocated. The coolant Inlet pipe arrangement to the cylinders was modified, with the separate reed to each cylinder being replaced by a single lead to the front cylinder. and a link pipe being lllted between the cylinders v-v (2000) models available in green. grey and red. and ValeZ (2001/2) models available in silver. grey and blue. 0-10 Model development/ Bike spec XRV750-L Africa Twin (1990 model year) The first Airlca Twin was [he XRWSD-L introduced in 1990. The Africa Twin has the same 52" V-len cylinder engine as the Transalp. but With increased bore and stroke dimensions It retains chain drive to its single overhead Camshafts which operate the two inlet and one exhaust valve per cylinder. The clutch is a Conventional wet multi-plate unit and the goarocx is 5»speeo. Drive irorn the gearbox output shalt is transmitted to the rear wheel by chain and sprockets. The cylinder heacls have twin spark plugs. The engine is mounted in a box-section steel cradle frame. Suspension is provided by oil-damped. duel spring and air-assisted lelescupic forks at the lrom. and a box» section aluminium swmgarm acting on a single shock ansoroer vla a three—way linkage at the rear, The shock absorber is adlustaola tor spring presload. Braking lS hydraulic alle round( with [Win discs and twrn-pismn slldlng Calipers at the from and a single disc and singlerplstorl sliding caliper at the reeri The ruel tank incorporates a low level sensor with a corresponding warning light. and the tank has twin taps Fuel is supplied to the camurettors via an external pump and ln-line llltei. The XRVTSU-L was available in two variations of white/blue, The XRV7SD-M model tor 1991 was unchanged mechanically. though was also available in white. black and blue. XRV'ISO-N Africa Twin (1992 model year) Apart (mm a new instrument Cluster and the addltlan of a digital trip meter mounted above it. the XRWSO-N was unchanged from the L and M models Available In white. black and blue XRV750-P Africa Twin (1993 model year) The Africa Twin was given a makeover lor 199:1. with a difi‘erent luel tank incorporating a single lap in place at the twin taps previously used. and losing the low iuel level sensor and warning circuit in place ol a conventional tap providing a reserve taciilty. The air lllter housing has been transferred (mm below the seat to under the front oi the tank. thereby doing away with the air duct between the housing and the carburettors. The carburenors were changed, now being llat- slide Instead of roundeslide type. The front brake calipers were Improved, making pad changes easier, though remain the twins piston sliding type, Olner modifications include a modified rear shock absorbers different rear brake master cylinder. modified rear corner, lockable seat, dlflerent side panels. a modified rotary as opposed to ulungersiype sldestand switch. different coolant reservoir, relocated luseoox. and a l'estyled fairing. The XFIV750»P model was available In green. black and white. XRW50~H and S (1994 and 1995) models were unchanged mechanically. cm H models were available in black, white and blue. and S models in green. block and white XRV75lJ-T Africa Twin (1996 model year) The Ignition system was modified. With the twin pulse generator cells being replaced lay a single coil, and the twin HT coils per cylinder being replaced by a single coil per cylinder, each coil leeelng both spark plugs. Otherwise. apan from minor modifications to the rear carrier. the model was unchanged. Available in red. black and sliver. XRV750-V, W, X, Y, 1 and 2 Africa Twin (1997 to 2002 model years) The Africa Twin has remained unchanged since 1996. with the exception of colour schemes. V (1997) models were available in black. blue and sliver. W (1998) models were available in green. black and whlta. X (1995) models were available in black. white and blue. Y. 1 and 2 (2000 to 2002) models were available in black and blue/red. Bike spec Dimensions and weights - XLGOOV models Overall length ........................... Overall width H to P (1987 to 1993) models Ft to X (1994 to 1999) models .. Overall height H and J (1987 and 1988) models ......... Kto H1989 to 1993) models .. . Fl in X (1994 to 1999) models Wheelbase ., Seat helgnl Ground clearance WI on centresland titted H and J (1987 and 1988) models . .. K and L (1939 and 1990) models M to x (1991 to 1999) models . . Weight (dry)‘ H to L (1987 to 1990) rrindels . M to R (1991 to 1995) models . T to X (1996 to 1999) models . Curb weight" H to L (1987 in lead) models . . M to X [1991 to 1999) models. 865 mm (34.0 In) 905 mm (35.6 in) 1230 mm (504 in) 1310 rnr11(51.6inl 1300 mm (51.2 in) 1505 mm (59.3 in) 350 mm (335 in) 225 mm (8.9 in) 200 mm (7.9 in) 155 mm (7,7 ln) 175 kg (386 lb) 153 kg (404 lb) 189 kg (417 lb) «94 kg (425 lb) 202 kg (445 lb) 'Ado approximately 2 kg for Austrian and Swiss marker models 2260 to 2270 mm (89 CI to 69.4 in) Bike spec 0-11 Dimensions and weights— XLGSOV models Overall length Overall wldm Overall nelgm . Wheelbase , Seal helgm .. Ground clearance . Walghl (dry) Curb walgnl ....... Dimensions and welghts- XRV750 models Overall length Overall wldlh L lo N (1990 id 1992) models . P models onwards (‘993-071) . Overall height Lto N (199010 1992) models . P models onwards (1993-on) . Wheelbase ................ Seal halgm L IO N [1990 lo 1992) models . . . P to s (1993 (d 1995) moaels T models anards uses-ml) . : Ground clearance L in N (199010 1992) models a. . . P models onwards (1993-an) m... . . Weigm (dryl L to N (1990 to 1992) models P models onwards (1993ron) Curb welgm L in N (1990 m 1992) models .. F models onwards (19937011) . 2255 mm (59.2 ln) ass mm (34.0 m) 1250 mm (50.41n) 1505 mm (59.3 in) 850 mm (33.5 ml 225 mm 18.9 ml 175 kg (336 lb) 194 kg (428 lb) 2315l0 2380 mm (911 to 93 7 in) 595 mm(35,21n) 9175 mm135 e m) 1420 mm (559 Hi) 1430 mm (56.3 m) 1555 mm (61.6 m) 5130 mm (34.5 lrl] 860 mm (33.3 (n) 3/0 rrlm(34.31rl) 225 mm (3.9 in) 215 mm (3.5 in) 210 kg (463 lb) 205 kg (452 ml 2x1 kg (514 lb) 229 kg (505 ml E .9 (n .1: E 11> U) Wheelbase Leng’rh Height 0-12 Bike spec En gi ne Type ............................................... Capacity XLBDOV models . , XLSSDV models . l XRV750 models , Bars and stroke XLEODV models . XLBSOV models . XRWSO models , CDmpreSSlon ratio XLGODV and XLGSDV models XHWSD dePJs Camshahs ................................... Carbureflors XLGOOV and XL65UV models , , XHW50»L m S (1990 to 1995)models . XRWSDVT models cnwalds 0996-011) . lgnllion system XLSUDVVH to H (1987 to 1995) and XRWSO-LLO S (199010 ”195) models .................................. XLSOUVJ l0 X (1996 to 19991 XLESOV and XRV7507T models onwards (1996-071) . . . I ................. Clutch , i. Gearhax l . Final drlve 1 Cycle parts Frame type ............................................... Fuel tank capaclly (including reserve) XLEDOV models . . XLGSUV models . . . . V . i xnwsoi in N (19901:: 1992] models . XHV7507P models onward (19930!“ . From susnension XLGIJDV and XLSSOV models XFlV750 models Rear suspension Type .............. Tvavel rXLEOOV and XLssov models l'ravel 7 va750 models Adlnsimenl .1 , , Wheels Flori! Rear , Tyres — XLSUDV and XLBSUV models Front ............................ Rear ............................... Tyres — XRWSO—L to N [199010 1992) models Front . V V , , . Rear . . . . . Tyres » xRWSU-P models onward (1991mm From . Rear,,, ., Front make XLGDDV-H (a T (1987 m 1996) models ........................ stouv-V lo x1199? to 1999) XL650V and Xl-‘lvvéo models .................. Real brake XLsuner (a L (1987 to 1990) models ........... XLsnov-M lo x (1991 lo 1999) and staov mooels XRV750 models Liquidrcooled six valve 52“ V-iwin 588 cc 647 cc 742 cc 75 x 66 mm 79 x 66 mm 31 x 72 mm 92 :1 9.0 .‘1 SOHQ chain-driven 2 x 34 mm Keihln CV type 2 x 3615 mm Kelhin cv lype 2 x 36.0 mm Kelhirl CV type CD] with Elecirurllc advance Dlgllal nans‘lstorisad with eleclrorllc advance Wet multi»plate. cable-operated firspeed constant mesh Chain and splockels Single downluoe Wlln doublerloop cradle, leclanguiar sectlon 15.0 litres (3.96 Imp gal) 19.61l‘tresit131 Imp gal) 2410 litres (523 [mp gal] 23.0ll1re515.06|mp gal) 41 mm oil-damped telescopic forks wilh 200 mm lravel 43 mm oil-damped telesc0pic forks, wlth 220 mm Havel, air‘assisled on L to s (1990 to 1995) models Single shock absorben rising vale linkages Pro-Link box semen aluminium swingerm 187 mm 210 mm Sprlng pie-load an all models. XL650V models also have compression damping adiusimem 21 inch spake, aluminium rim 17 inch spake, aluminium llm 90/90—21 54$ 130/80-1 7 658 90190-21 54H 130/9041 7 SSS 90/9041 54$ 140/80—F117 691—1 276 mm slngla disc with twirl piston slldlng caliper 273 mm lwil’l discs with twin piston sliding Calipers 130 mm single leading shoe drum 240 mm single disc with single piston sliding caliper 253 mm Single disc wun single piston sliding caliper Performance data / ID numbers 0-13 Performance data Maximum power XLEuW models . . XLGEDV models XRW50 models . Maximum torque XLGODV models XLBSW models . XHWSD models Top speed XLsnulssuv models ...... W50 models .......... Acceleration XLSDUV models Terminal speed after V. mile XLBEDV models , . . . XRWSCI models Average fuel consumption XLEOW models XLGSW models XHWSD models . . Fuel tank range Based on avalage fuel consumption rate XLSOOV models . . XLBSOV models XRV75U models . 5bhpl34.7l29 XLBDOV~W 1 998 HM-PDOSENM XLSDGV—X 1999 HMAPDUGE‘M XLESOVN 2000 HM-FID10E-20 XLESOV-1 2001 HM~HD10E>ZO XLSSDV-Z 2002 "01 avallable ‘XLEGOV—L not available in [he UK market XRVT50 Africa Twin Model Year Initial engine no. XHV750>L 1990 HWE-ZD XFlV750-M 1991 RD04E<21 XHW50N 1992 ROME-22 XRV750>P 1 993 ROME—23 XRWSD-R 1934 RDOIE<24 XRW50~5 1995 RDMEZS XHWSD-T 1996 RDO4EA26 XRV750-V 1997 RD04E-27 XRV750-W 1998 HD04E-23 XRWSQX 1998 HUME-29 XRWSD‘Y 2000 RDU4E-291 XRV750-1 2001 not avallable XRWSD—Z 2002 no! available All UK market models and Germany Type I Germany Type II models (restricted power output) MW and XLSSOV Transalp Initial irame no. Model Year Initial engine no. Initial frame no. FD05-50 XLEOUV-H 1957 PDOGESO P006410 PING-51 XLSDOV—J 1988 PD06E~31 P003451 FDOG-SZ XL500V1 1999 HM-PDUEEM ZDCDP’I OED-X ZDGPD1OA0-X XL650V‘V 2000 HM-RD1UE-30 ZDCRD1OHO-V ZDCRDVUAOvY XL650V‘1 2001 HM>HD1DE-30 ZDCFlD1 OED-1 ZDDRD1DAO-1 XLSGUVQ 2002 not avallable XHW50 Africa Tiuln Inlllal frame no. Modal Year Initial engine no, Initial [rams no. RDO4<20 XRWSO—L 1990 HD0453!) RUM-30 HDD4-21 XWTSDsM 1991 HUME-31 RUM—3'1 HD0442 XRV750, 1&7: Slacken the locknut (AI End turn the pushrnd uslng the hex (a) to adlusl pedal height § Note: An impmperly adjusted headlight may cause pmblems for oncoming traffic or provrde paor, unsafe illumination or the road ahead. Before adjusting the headlight aim, [75 sure to consult with local traffic laws and regulations —- for UK models later to MOT Test Checks 4n the Reference section. 1 The headllght baamtsl can adjusted both honzontaliy and vertically, Eeiure making any adlustment. check that the tyre pressures are correct and the suspension is adjusted as requtred. Make any adlustments to the headlight aim with the machlne on level groundt wlth the luel tank half full and wlth an assistant sitting on the seal, it the bike is usually ridden With a passenger on the back. have a second asSistant to do mis. XLGOOV-H to P (1987 to 1993) models 2 Vertical adjustment is made by turning the adjuster screw below the headlight unit using a screwdriver inserted through the access hole in the Visiting. Turn it clockwise to move the beam down. and anti-clockwise to move it 20 Headlight aim '- check and adjustment up. 3 Horizontal adjustment l5 made by tumlng the adjuster screw on the left-hand side 01 the headllghl, accessing ll irorn lrlSlClE the fairing ”it." fine-2.. ' ' ~ ' H 20.3 VeniCil adlumem screw (A), horizontal adjustment screw (5) 19.7b On some models the adjusting hex (a) is at thn top of the pushrod. Locknut (A) Turn It cIDCkwlsa In move the beam to the Iefls and anti-clockwlse to move It to the right XLsaov-n to x (1994 to 1999) madels 4 Vertical adjustment is made by turning the adjusterscrew en the tap right-hand corner or the headlight (see iilustratidn). Turn it clockwse to move the beam up. and anllr clockwlse to move It down. 5 Horizontal adjustment is made by turnan the adjuster screw on the bottom leftrhand corner at the headlight (see illustration). Tum ll Cluckwlse to move the beam to the left, and anticlockwise to move it to the rlghi. XLESDV models 6 Vertical adlustmenl is made by turning the adjuster knob on the bottum leftrhand corner at the headlight (see illustration] Turn it clockwtse to move the beam up, and anlir clackwise to move it down 7 Horizontal adjustment is made by turning the adluster screw on the bottom right-hand carrier at the headllght (see illustration 20.5} Turn it clockwse to move the beam to the right. and anti-clockwise to move ll to the left XRV750 models 8 Vertical adlustmenl of the right-hand headlight unit is made by turning the wmgriut on the batten-n Ian-hand corner _ turn it clonkwlse to mnve the beam down and anti. clockwlse to move it up [see illustration). 20.5a Vertical adjustment wingnuts (arrowed) 1-24 Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) by...» . .. . 20.8h Nurixontal adjustment screws (arrowed) Horizontal adjustment is made by turnlng the adjuster screw on the top right-hand corner of the unit — turn It clockwise to move the beam to the right and antinciockmse ti: move It to the left (see illustraflan]. 9 Vertical adjustment 01 the left-hand headllght unit is made by turning the wingnut on the bomm rightrhend comer— turn it clockwise to move lhe beam down and amlsciockwise to move it up (see illustration zone). Horizontal adjustment is made by turning the adjuster screw on the top left—hand comer of the unit « turn it clockwise to move the beam to the left and anti—clockwise to move it to the right (see illustration more). s is Note: All models are fitted with a sldestzmd as standard equipment. A centrestand is available as an optional extra. I Check the stand springls) tor damage and distortion. The springisl must be capable oi retracting the stand lully and holding it retracted when the motorcycle is In use. It a spring is sagged or broken it must be replaced with a new one. 2 Lubricate the stand pivots regularly (see Section 12). 3 Check the stand and Its mount tor bends and cracks. Stands can oiteri be repaired by welding. 4 On all except XLGOOV-H and J (1937 and 1988) models. check the operation at the 21 Sidestand— ’ : , check ’ ’ 22.7a checking for pie the swlngarm bearings sidestand switch by shifting the transmission into neutral, retréwting the stand and Starting the engine. Pull in the clutch lever and select a gear. Extend the sldesland. The engine should stop as the sidestand is extended. ii the sldestand switch does not operate as described. check its circuit (see Chapter 9) 1 The suspension components must be maintained in top operating condition to ensure rider saiety. Loose. wom or damaged suspension parts decrease the motorcycles stability and control. Front suspension 2 While standing alongside the motorcycle. apply the ironl brake and push on the handlebars to compress the forks several times. See li they move up—andsdpwn smoothly without bindinge ll binding is tell. the forks should he disassembled and inspected (see Chapter 6L 3 Lift the rubber getter off the top of each fork slider. inspect the area around the dust seal tor signs of oil leakage. then oaretully lever up the seal using a llat»bladed screwdriver and inspect the area around the fork seal. It leakage is evident. the seals must be replaced with new ones (see Chapter 6), Seal the goiter back into position alter the check. 4 Check the tightness or all suspension nuts and bolts to be sure none have worked loose. Hear suspension 5 Inspect the rear shock absorber for fluid leakage and lightness at its mountings. It leakage is round. the shock must be replaced with a new one (see Chapter 6). 6 With the aid of an assistant to support the bike. compress the rear suspension several times. it should move up and down ireeiy without binding. lfany binding is tell. the worn or faulty component must be identified and Ghefiked (see Chapter 6). The problem could be due to either the shock absorber. the suspension linkage components or the swingarrn components. 22,1!) Checking for play In the rear shock mountings and suspension linkage bearings 7 Suppon the motorcycle on its centrestend it fitted, or on an auxiliary stand. so that the real wheel is oil the ground. Grab the swingarm and rock it irprn side to sider there Should be no discernible movement at the rear [see illustration). It there's a little movement or a slight cllcking can be heard. Inspect the tightness of all the swingarm and rear suspension mounting bolts and nuts. referring to the torque settings specllied at the beginning or Chapter 6, and recheck tor movement Next. grasp the top or the rear Wheel and pull It upwerds— there should be n0 discernible fleeplay before the shock absorber begins to compress (see illustration). Any Iteepiay tell in either check indicates worn bearings or bushes (aooording to model) in the suspension linkage or swrngarm. or wom shock absorber mounllngs. The worn components must be identified and repllced wrth new onesisee Chapter 6i. 8 To make an accurate assessment at the swingarm bearings. remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7) and the bolt securing the suspension linkage assembly to the swinger-m (see Chapter 6). 9 Grasp the rear of the swingerm with one hand and place your other hand at tho [unction oi the swrngai-rn and the trains. Try to move the roar or the swrngan—n iroi'i'l siderter side. Any wear (play) in the bearings should he tell as movement between the swingarm and the name at the ironl. it there is any play the Swingarm will be felt to move iorward and backward at the tram (not from Sidento-sidei 10 Next. move the swtngarm up and down through its full travel. It should move lreely. without any binding or rough spots If there is any play In the swingonn or it it does not move freely. removetho hearings [or inspection (see Chapter 6). 11 On XLSOOV-H and J (1987 and 1958) models the suspension linkage components, which have bushes as opposed to bearings. ate equipped with grease nipples so that the bushes can be lubrlcated with fresh grease. Using a smtable grease gun. apply grease to each nipple, Note that the linkage should still be periodically be disassembled so that all the old grease can becleaneo out (see Section 33). I § s ea steering head hearings— ', chepk'and adjustment ‘y 1 Steering head bearings can become denied, rough or loose during normal use 0! the machine. In extreme cases. worn or loose steering head beorlngs can cause steering wobble — a condition that is potentially dangerous. Check 2 support the motorcycle on its centrastend ii fitted. or on an auxiliary stand. so that the front wheel is oil the ground. a Point the iront wheel straight-ahead and Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) 1-25 slowly move the handlebars lrorn side-to— sl‘de, Any dents or roughness In the bearing races will be felt and the bars will not move smoothly and Ireeiy. Again point me wheel amighl ahead. then tap the lront of the wheel to one side. The wheel should ‘iall‘ under its own Weight to the limit of its lock. indicating that the bearings are not too light, Check for similar movement to the other side. It the steering doesn't move lreely through its entire lack. and it's not due to the resistance elf cables or hoses. then (he bean'ngs should be adjusted as described below. 4 Next, grasp the bottom or the forks and gently pull and push them lorward anti backward (see illustration). Any ipoeeness or rreeplay in the steering head hearings Will be felt as front-turrear movement 0' the forks. ll play is felt, must the bearings as described below 5 Make sure you are no! mlmklng any movement bellman the bike and stand, er between the stand and diagram furlreepleyln th- bearings Do not pull and pull the Infill too hard - a gentle movement Is all that I: needed. ’ Ereapley in the four: themselves due to warn bush-a can also be misinterpreted as steering head bearingpkry—denateonfusu the two. Adjustment 5 As a precaution. remove the luei tank (see Chapter 4i- Though not actually necessary. this wlll prevent the pessinllily cl damage should e loci slip. is Displace the handlebars trorn the top yoke (see Chapter 6). Support them so the brake master cylinder Is upright to prevent the possibility 0' iluld leakage. There is no need (0 remove assemblies from the handlebars. or to disconnect any cables. hoses or wlring. Note that iI you do not have a socket or torque wrench. and are usll'ig a spanner to slacken and tighten [he steering stern l’iui. the handlebars can remain in place. 7 Slackan the lork clamp bolls in the tap yoke [see illustration), 23.4 Checking for play In the steering head hearings B Slacken the steering stem nut (sea Illustration). It you have the Honda special tool for the adiiisler nut. Or a suitable equivalent (whlch can be made by cutting castellationa into an old socket. or a peg scanner to which a torque wrench can be applied). or are using a c—spenner. release any cables and wiring lrom guides on the top yoke, and where it necessary (according to model) displace the rusebox, than unscrew and remove the steering stem nut and washer, then gently ease the top yoke up off the fork tubes and oosrilon it clear or the head bearings, USIng a rag to protect other components (see Illustration). Otherwise leave the yoke in poSItlon. 9 ll you don‘l have the special (DUI or equivalent. use a unit located in one or the notches to slacken the adjuster nut slightly until pressure is lust released, than lighten It unlll ell ircepiay Is removed. yet the steering is able to move freely (see lllusiratlon 23.88). The object is to 591th adjuster nut so that the bearings are under a very light loading, just enough to remove any freeplay. but not so much that the steering dues not move irealy from side in side as described in the check procedure above. 10 lf the Hunda tool Or a suitable socket or peg spanner is being used, slacken the adjuster nul slightly until pressure is lust released. then tighten It to the turque setting specified at the beginning or me Chapter, and this should give the correct loading. Turn the steering from louvre-lock five times after tightening and recheck lhe adjustment or ».i 23.8: Slacker-i or unscrew the steering stem nut (A). The adiuster nut is) is under the yoke r , x 21% It required. gently ease the yoke up D" the forks 23.1 Slacker: the rerk clamp halts [arr-awed) on each side torque setting. Do not rely on the torque selling alone and assume the loading to be Contact — check the physical feel as described as well. ll the bearings cannot be correctly adlusted. disassemble the steering head and check the bearings and mces (see Chapter a), Ir a Cspnnner is being used. adiust according to the procedure in Step 9 (sea illustration). Caution: Take great care nut to apnly excessive pressure bicause this will causn premature laiiura or the bearings. 11 II displaced. fit the tap yoke cnlc the Steering stern. then install the washer and nut (see illustration 21ml: and a). 12 Tighten the steering stern ml! ‘0 {he torque setting specllred at the beginning or the Chapter. New lighten path the iork clamp bolts to the specliled torque (see illustration 28,7) 13 Check the bearing colustrnenl as described above and rte—adjust If necessary. 14 install the handlebars ii displaced (see Chapter 6). and the luel tank lsee Chapter4). 24 Nuts and hails - L § tightness check efi ' K 1 Since Vibration or the machine tends to loosen lasteners, all nuls, bolts. screws. etc. should be periodically checked for proper lightness. 2 Pay particular atlsnllpn to the following: Spark plugs Engine oil drain plug and coolant drain plug 23.10 Adjust the bearings as dlscribnd using either i Crspanner 0' a drift. or one 01 the special tools described 1-26 Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) Lever and pedal bolts Footrest and stand bolls Engine mountrng balls Shock absorber and suspension linkage balls and swmga/m nil/Di boll Handlebar clamp bulls Flam axle and axle haldel mils Fro/it fol-ll clamp balls (lap and bottom yoke) and fork top balls Rear axis nut Blake caliper and master cylinder maun ling bolts Blake rinse banjn balls and caliper bland valves Brake disc bolts Exhaust System balls/nuls 3 If a Iorque wrench is available, use ll along With the torque specifications at the beglnnlrlg of this and other Chapters. 25 Pulse secondary air injection § (PAIR) system— % check (XL650\l models) :fir 1 Remove lhe lual tank and an inter housing (see Chapter 4] and the right- hand heal shield. Vlsuslly inspect the hoses between the reed valves on me valve covers and lhe PAIR control valve behind the right-hand radiator. and between me Control Valve and the alr filler housing. for klnks and splils and any other damage or delerieialien (see Illustration). Similarly check the vacuum hose belvveen lha contml valve and its takdor’l paint on the hum Cyllndel Intake duct. Make sure that all hoses are securely connected win a clamp on each and, Replace any hoses Ihal are damaged or deienoraled. 25,1 PAIR system control valva and hoses — XLBSOV models 2 See Chapter 4 lei lurmer information and lesls on the system. Every 12,000 miles (18,000 km) or 18 months Carry out all the items under the 4000 mile (6000 km) check: 26 Air filler - renewal ”ff/x" Caulinn.‘ If the machine is cant/nually ridden In wel or dusty canditians, the filler should be realaced mun: frequently. 1 Reler to (he procedure in Seclion B and replace the air filter with a new one. Every 12,000 miles (18,000 km) or two years 27 Brake fluid — renewal I”??? 1 The brake iiuid sliculd be replaced at the prescribed interval or whenever a master cylinder or caliper overhaul is carried out. Refer to the brake bleeding section in Chapter 7. rioting that all old lluid must be pumped lrorn the lluid reservoir and hydraulic lines Deidre nlling With new nuid. names Old brake fluid ls invariably much darker ln colour than new fluid, making it easy ta 599 when alloldfluid ha! been expelled hum are system. Every 24,000 miles (36,000 km) or two years Carry oul all the items under ”is 12,000 mile “8.000 km) and 3900 mile (12,000 km) checks, plus the {allowing 28 Coolant — renewal ”ff/f” Warning: Allow the engine to cool completely before perfonrllng this maintenance operation. Alsn, don’t allow antifreeze l0 1:an into mum! with your skin or the painted surfaces of the motorcycle. Rinse off spills Immadlalsly with plenty or water. Anlflrasza ls highly toxic If Ingeslsd. Never leave antifreeze lying alumni in an open container or in puddles on Hie floor; chlldren andpats are attracted by Is sweet smell and may drink It. Check with local aulharilias (councils) abnul disposing of entitreeze. Many communities have collectiarl centres whlch will see that snlilreeze is disposed of said/y. Antifreeze is also combustiblel so don’t store ll near open flames. Draining 1 On XL5OOV and XRV75U models remove 28.33 Unscrew lhe drain plug . t . the falling side panels, on XLSSDV models I'emuva the lairing, and an all models remove the belly pan (see Chapter 8). 2 Cover the pressure cap Willi a nsavv cloth and remove the cap lmin the top or the radiator by turning ll anllrclockwlse until it reaches a slop (sea Illustr inn 15.8] N you hear a hissing sound (lndicaling (here is still pressure in me syslem). Wall until li slaps. Now press down on the cap and continue turning the cap umll it can be removed. Also remove the coolant (ESENOIY cap. 3 Position a suitable Container beneath the Walter pump on the leltshand slde of the engine. Unscrew the drain plug and allow ma coolanl to completely diam llom the system (see illustrallans). Helaln the old sealing washer for use during flushing. 4 On XLSSDV and XRWSD models. place the Conlamel below the ccalanl leselvulr (on XRV750 models ramovs the righI-hand side panel to access it , sea Chapter 8]. Every 24,000 miles (36,000 km) 1-27 Disconnect the radiator overflow hose from the bottom of the reservulr and allow it to drain into the container. Whpn the reservoir is empty. llush It out with clean water. then reconnect the hose. 5 0n XLBDDV models. to drain and clean the reservoir you will either have If! Syphon out the coolant, or remove the reservoir and tip it nut. Removing the reservoir Involves removing the rear shock absorber (see Chapter 5). Flushing 5 Flush the system with clean tap water by inserting a garden nose in the radiator tiller nook. Allow the water to run through his system until it is clear and flows out cleanly. It the radiator is extremely corroded. remove it (see Chapter 3) and have it cleaned by a Specialist 7 Clean the drain hole in the water pump then lnslall lite orain plug ustng the old sealing washer a Fill the cooling system with clean water mixed with a llushing compound. Make sure the lloshlng compound is compatible with aluminium components. and follow the manulacturar‘s instructions carefully. Fit the pressure cap and the reservoir cap 9 Slart the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Let il run lor about ten minutes. ID Stop the engines Let it cool lur a while, then cover the pressure cap with a heavy rag and turn it anticlockwise to the lirst 5111p. releasing any pressure that may be present in the system. Once the hissing stops. push down on the cap and remove it completely 11 Drain the system once agaln. 12 Fill the system with clean water ano repeat the pmcsdursin Steps 5 to 11. Refilling 13 Fit a new seating washer onto the drain plug and tighten lt securely, 14 Fill the system with the proper coolant mixture (see this Chapter's Specifications), Note: Pour the Coolant In slowly to minimise the amount ciarr entering the system. 15 When the system is run (all the way up to the base oi the radiator tiller neck), start the engine and allow il to idle for 2 to 3 minutes Fllck the throttle twistgrip part open a or A times. so that the engine speed rises to approximately 4000 e 5000 rpm, then stop the engine. This process will bleed any trapped air bubbles train the System. 16 if necessary. top up the coolant level to the base of the upper radiator tiller neck and install the pressure cap. Also top up the ntenance .‘A ' . ' ‘ 5 28.3C On XL650V models access the Gram plug (snowed) from underneath coolant reservoir to the UPPER level mark (see Del/y (pro—nae) checks). 17 Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. then shut it on. Let the engine cool then remove the pressure can as described ill Step 2. Check that the coolant level is still up to the base at the upper radiator filler neck. it it's low, add the specified mixture until it reaches the base of the filler neck. Refit the cap. 18 Check the coolant level in the reservoir and top up if necessary. 19 Check the system tor leaks. Install the fairing side panels or lairing as required, and the belly pan (see Chapter 3). 20 Do not dlspflse or the pic coolant by pouring it down the drain Instead pour it into a heavy plastic container. cap it tightly and take it into an authorised disposal Site or servrce station - see Warning at the beginning or this Section Non-scheduled mai 29 lind ssi '1 % Erlecfimm l’“ is K 1Arnclng other things. poor engine parlomiance may be caused by leaking valves. incorrect valve clearances. a leaking head gasket, or worn pistons. rings and/or cylinder walls, A cylinder compression check will help pinpoint these conditions and Carl also indicate the presence or excessive carbon deposits in the Cylinder header 2 The only tools required are a compression gauge and a spark plug wrench, A compression gauge with a threaded end for the spark plug hole is preferable to the type which requires hand pressure to maintain a tight seal. Depending on the outcome of the inltlal test. a squirt-type oil can may also be needed. 3 Make sure the valve Clearances are correctly set (see Section 15) and that the cylinder head nuts are tightened to the correct torque setting (see Chapter 2). 4 Helen to Fault Finding Equipment in the Relerence section for details ot the compression test. Refer to the specifications at the beginning or the Chapter tor compression liguras. 30 Engine oil pressure,- - check ' ‘ MW l The oil pressure warning light should come on when the Ignition (main) switch is turned ON and extinguish a few seconds alter the engine ls startsda this serves as a checkthat the warning light bulb ls sound. It the all pressure light comes on whilst the engine is running. low oil pressure is indicated » stop the engine immediately and carry out an Clll level check (see Daily axe-ride) checks). 2 An oil pressure check must be carried out if the warning light comes on when the engine Is running yet the oil level is good (Step 1) it can also provide useful lntormation about the condition ot the engine‘s lubrication system, a To check the oil pressure a suitable gauge and adapter (which screws into the crankcase) will be needed. Honda provide a gauge and adapter (part Nus. misos-aoooooo and 07510 4220100) lcr this purpose. or one can be obtained commercially. You will also need a container and some rags to Catch and mop up any residual oil that gets iost in between removing the oil pressure switch and installing the gauge 7 on models titted with a centrestand, place the bike on it. otherwise position the bike as upright as possible without it becoming unstabic by placing a block under the sldestand. so that less ell gathers behind the switch to reduce spillage. Check the engine oil level sitar installing the gauge and replenish it necessary (see Dally (pre-nds} checks). 4 Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature then stop it. 5 Remove the oil pressure swrtch (see Chapter 9), and screw the adapter in its place. Connect the oil pressure gauge to the adapter. 5 Start the engine and brlelly increase the engine speed to 6000 rpm whilst watching the gauge reading. The all pressure should be Similar to that given in the Specifications at the start or this Chapter. 1 If the pressure is significantly lower than the standard, eithertrle uremia rellet valve is Stuck 1-28 Non—scheduled maintenance ,. Masada , 31.2 checking tor play in the wheel bearings npen. the oil pump or its drive mechanism is faulty. the all strainer or filter ls blocked. or there is other engine damage. Also make sure the correct grade oil is being used. Begin diagnosis by checking the oil lilter. strainer and relief valve, then the oil pump (see Chapter 2). If those items check out okay. chances are the bearing oll clearances are excessive and the engine needs to be overhauled. 8 ll the pressure is too high. either an Oil passage is clogged. lhe reliei valve is stuck closed Drthe wrong grade or oil is being used. 9 Stop the engine. neier to the oil pressure switch Installation procedure in Chapter 9 and apply the sealant to the switch boicre removing the gauge. Unscrew the gauge and adapter lrurn the Cmnkcase and immediately install the oil pressure swrtch (see Chapier 9). iii Check the oil level (see Daily (pro-ride) checks). :1 Wheel bearings— check s s 1 Wheel hearings will wear over a period or time and result In handling problems. 2 Support the motorcycis upright using the centresland if fitted. Or an auxiliary stand. and support it so that the wheel being checked is on the ground (remove the belly pan and anything else that could be damaged baiore placing a support under the engine). Cheek lor any play In the bearings by pushing and pulling the wheel against the axle (see illustration). Alsu spin the wheel and check that it rotates smoothly. 3 it any play is detected in the hub. or if the wheel does not rotate smoothly (and this Is not due to brake Dr lransrrlissicn drag), the wheel bearings must be removed and inspected ior wear or damage (see Chapter 7). isyzi'swering head; baaflngs — , [reagreash-igx _ , ,y s 1 Over a period at time the grease Will harden or may be washed out of the bearings by incorrect use oi iei washes. 2 Disassemble the stealing head lor re- grsasing or the oesrings. Refer to Chapter 6 for details. as Sirtingarm and suopcnslon :linkage bearings —_ rte-greasing - 1‘ 1 Over a period 0! time the grease will harden or dlrl Will penetrate the bearings due to failed seals. 2 Remove the swingarrn and suspension linkage as described in Chapter 6 tor cleaning and re-greaslng oi the bearings. Note that XLsouer and w models are equipped with two grease nipples in the rear suspensron linkage componene. enabling lresh grease to be applied periodically » see Section 22. 34 Brake caliper and master cylinder seals — renewal If)” 1 Brake seals will deteriorate over a period at tlme and lose their effectlveness. leading to sticklng operation or fluld loss. or allowing the ingress of air and din. Heter to Chapter 7 and dismantle the Components for seal renewal, s s 1 The "0585 Will in tlrrie deteriorate with age and should be renewed regardless or their apparsnl condition. heier in Chapter 7 and disconnect the brake hoses from the master 35 Brake hoses renewal cylinders and calipers. Always replace the banjo union sealing washers with new ones. 2 Check the condition at the brake pipes. in particular looking for creases and dams. and renew them as necessary it damage is found. 36 Fuelhosa— , « & renewal § ‘ \ Warning: Petrol {gaseline} is A extremely flammable. so take extra precautions when you work on any part or the fuel system. Don't smoke or aIIBW open flames cl bare light bulhs near the work area, and don’t work/l1 a garage where a natural gas-type appliance is presonL it you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse I! of! Immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind a! work an the fuel system wear safety glasses and have a fire extinguisher suitable for a Class E type fire (flammable liquids) on hand. 1 The luel system hoses Should be renewed at the first signs or cracking or hardening. This includes all the vent and drain hoses. and the vacuum hase(s) 2 Remove the luel tank and the air duct or iilter housing, according to model (see Chapter 4]. Disconnect the fuel noses between the tusl tank and the carburettors. noting the routing or each hose and where it connects (see Chapter 4 It required]. and the vacuum hosa(s) Irorn the intake duct is) It is advisable to make a sketch 0! the various hoses beiore removing them to ensure they are Correctly installed 3 Secure each new hose to its unions using new clamps. Him the engine and check that there are no leaks oerore taking the machine out an the road 37 Front forks — oil change MW 1 Fork oil degrades over a period at time and loses its damping ouaiiiies. Pieter to the tort oil change procedure in Chapler 6, Section 7. The lcrhs do not need to Lie completely disassembled. Chapter 2 2-1 Engine, Clutch and transmission Contents Alternator - removal and installation . . Cam chains - removal and installation Carri chain tensioner and guide blades — removal inspection and installation. Camshafts and rockers removal. lnspectlon and nstall Clulch— removal. inspection and installation Clutch cable removal and installation . Clutch check see chapter 9 .see Chapter i Connecting rods — removal inspection and installation . . 28 crankcase inspection. servicing and renewal . . . 24 Crankcase - separation and reassembly ..... . .23 Crankstislt and main bearings A removal, inspection and installation ................................. Cylinder barrels s removal. inspection and Installation Cylinder compression check ......... Cylinder heads removal and installation. . V. . V Cylinder need and valves disassemoiy, inspection and reassembly ................ Engine 7 removal and Installation Engine oisassembly and reassembly— general lmormatiorl , Gearcnange mechanism — removal. inspection and installation . General information . . Idle speed CHECK . r , Ignition pulse generator coillsi A removal and .27 .15 see Chapterl ..12 see Chapler I Initial stamup attar overhaul ................. Main and connecting rod oearings general note Major engine repair— general note . . oil cooler and distributors removal inspection and installation (XFIV750 mooslsi. V Oil and filter change on level check .. . .see Daily (ore ride} checks on pressuie switch _ check, removal and Installation see Chapter 9 Oil pump and pressure relief valve — removal. inspection and installation ................. . 25 Operations possible vvitti tne engine in the trains. 2 Operations requiring engine removal V 3 Pistons - removal. Inspection and Installation . 16 Piston rings inspection and Installation . V V i 17 Primary drive genre removal. inspection and installation . 21 Recommended running-in procedure .............. 33 Selector drum and lorks— removal, inspection and installation V . ,29 Spark piiig checks .......................... Starter clutch— removal. inspection and installation . Starter motor— removal and Installation . l l V l l . see Chapter 9 Transmission shafts disassembly. inspection and reassembly V 31 Transmission shafts — removal and installation. Valve clearance check ........... Valve covers 7 removal and installation installation . ........ see Chapter 5 Valves/valve seats/valve guides — servicing Degrees of diflioulty Easy. suitable for Fairly easy, sumole Fairly um s\ Difficult. suitable for “k, Very citfioutt. § noticewith little for beginner with sullzbleforoomoment $ wiperiemed DIY \ suitable for expert DIV \ emetienoe o‘ some emerienoe DlY mechanic § mechanic ‘Q or professional § SpeCIflcatlons General Capacity stnav models V . 583 cc XLBSOV models . . 647 cc XRV75CI models 742 cc Bore XLSDDV models 75o mm stsov models . V . 79.0 mm XFlV750 models . . 31.0 mm Stroke XLeouv and XLssov models sen mm XFIWSU models ......... 720 mm Compression ratio XLBOOV and XLGSDV models 9.2 to l XRV750 models 9.0 to ‘l Cylinder oompression XifiODV- H to P 0987 to l993) models XLEUUV R to X (1994 to 1899) models . XL650V models V . . XRWSU models Cooling system Clutch ....... Transmission Finnl ttn've 157 to 135 psi (1 i .n to 13.0 Bar) 164 to 192 psi(11.5t012.5 Bar) 154 to 224 psi (11.5 to 155 Bar) o 400 rpm 157 lo 213 psi (1 LU is 15.0 Bari o 400 rpm Liquid cooled Wet multipiate Five-speed constant mesh Chain aria sprockets 2-2 Engine, clutch and transmission Camshafts, rockers and cam chain - XLGOOV—H and J (1987 and 1988) Cam chain tenslmer projection (max) ......................... 6 mm Camshafts intake lobe height Standard 38.222 mm Service limit 38.00 mm Exhaust lobe height Standard ..... . 33.131 mm Service limlt 37.90 mm Journal diameter Standard . . 21.959 to 21.980 mm Service limit 2190 mm Camshaft bearing on clearance Standard . . . . 0.141 to 0.220 mm Service limil . . 0.23 mm Camshaft ruhout Standard . . 0.03 mm Service limit (1.05 mm Rockers Rocker shaft diameter Standard 4 . 11.966 to 11.954 mm Service llmil 11.33 mm Rocker arm internal dlamater Standard 12.00010 12.015 mm service llm 12.05 mm Rocker arm-tO-shafl Clearance Standard . . 0.016 to 0.052 mm Service limit 0.22 mm Camshafts, rockers and cam chain — XLEOOV-K to X (1989 and 1999) Cam chain tensions! mieciion (max) . . 5 mm Camshafts intake lone height standard . . 38.09410 35 284 mm Service llmlt .................. . . 36.074 mm Exhaust lobe helght Standard . . . 33.1 13 ta 35.308 mm Service limit . SE 093 mm Journal diameter Standard . . 21 .959 to 21.980 mm Service limit . . 21.95 mm Camshaft bearing oil clearance Standard .. 0.050 to 0.111 mm Service limit . D 13 mm Camshaft runom Standard . . 0.05 mm Servlce limit . 0.05 mm Rockers Rocker shaft diameter Standard . 113661011984 mm Service limit , 11.33 mm Hacker arm lnrema Standard . 1200010 12013 mm Sarvlce llmit . . Rocker arm»m»shart clearance Standard . . . Service limit . 12.05 mm 0.171610 0.052 mm 0.22 mm Camshafts. rockers and cam chain - XLSSOV models Cam chain tensionar projection (max) ........................ . 6 mm Camshafts Intake lobe height Standard ...... 38,189 mm Service llmlt . . . 38.17 mm Exhausl Ions height Standard 38.213 mm Service Ilrrllt . 38.19 mm Engine, clutch and transmission 2-3 Camshafts. rockers and cam chain — XL650V models (continued) Camshafts (continued) Journal diameter Standard 21.959 10 21.980 mm SeNIce ilmli 21.95 mm Camshaft bearing Oll clearance Standard . 0.04010 0093 mm Servlce ilmll . 0.13 mm Camshaft mneul Standard . . . 0.03 mm Sen/Ice limit . 0.05 mm Rockers Rocker shaft diameter Standard. 11.95610 11.984 mm Service llrnlt 11.96 mm Rocker arm internal diameter Standard 12.000t012018 mm Service limit. 12.03 mm Rocker arm to shaft clearance Standard. 0016 to 0.052 mm SeerCe limit. . , . 0.07 mm Camshafts. rockers and cam chain— XRV'ISO models Cam chain tensioner projection (max) . . i ....................... 5 mm Camshafts Inmke lobe height Standard , . . 38.331 mm Service limit . 35.10 mm Exhaust lobe halghl Standard 35.407 mm Service limit . 38.20 mm Journal diameter Siandard . 21.959 to 21.950 rnrn Service limil . 21,94 rnrn camshaft bearing ml clearance Standard . 0.050 to 0.111 mm Service llmil . 0.15 mm Camshalt runout Standard . . . 0.03 mm Service limit . 0.05 mm Rockers Hacker snafl diameter Standard .. 11.566 in 11.954 mrrl Service limit . 11.95 mm Rocker arm Internal cllarnerer Slandam. , 12.000 to 12.013 mm Service limi , 12.04 mm Hacker arm—to—snafl clearance Standard . . 0.016 to 0052 mm Service lll'rlll . V . 0.08 mm Cylinder head Warpage (max) . ,, , ..................................... 0.10 mm Valves, guides and springs - XLSODV-H to L (1987 to 1990) models Intake valve stem diameter Siandard . . , 5.475 to 5.490 mm Service iimi 5.45 mm Gulde bore diameter Standard . . . 5.500 to 5,520 mm Service Ilmll . 5.56 mm Stemrtu-guide clearance Standard . 0.010 Io 0.045 mm Service llmlt. 0.10 mm Saar width Standard . . 0.910 1.1 mm Service llmli . LS rnrn 2-4 Engine. clutch and transmission Valves, guides and springs - XL600V-H to L (1987 to 1990) models (continued) intake valve (continued) Spring tree length — outer spring standard Service ||m| . Spring tree length — Standard . . . Service limit . Guide projection height (above cylinder head) . . Exhaust Valve Stem diameter Standard ................. Service limt ............ . . . . Gulde bore diameter Standard . . . . . Service limit . . . . Stem-to-guide clearance Standard . . . Service limit . Seat Width Standard . Service limit Spring tree lengm— outer spring Standard. Service limit . inner spring Service limit . . Guide projection height (abuve cylinder head) Valve clearances ......................... 46.00 mm 44.30 mm 37.18 mm 35.58 mm 19.4t0193 mm 5.565 to 6.570 mm 6.55 mm 6.600 to 6.620 mm 6.65 mm 0.035 to 0.050 mm 0.11 mm 0.9 to 1.1 mm 1.5 mm 45.99 mm 44.29 mm 44.82 mm 43.32 mm 17 9 to 18 1 min See Chapter 1 Valves, guides and springs- XLGOOV- M to T (1991 to 1996) models Intake valve Stem diameter Standard . Service limlt . Guide bore diameter Standard Service llmi . Stem-tmgulds clsamnce Standard . Service iirni Seat width Standard . Service limlt . Spring lree length — miter spring Standard . Service limlt . Spring tree length — Inner spring Standard .................. Service limit .............. Guide projectinn height (above cyllrlder heed) . Exhaust Valve Stem diameter Standard . Service limit Guide bore diameter Standard ..... Service limlt ..... Stern-to-guide clearance Standard . Service limit Seat Width Standard. Service limlt . Spring (res langth— cuter spring 5.475 to 5.490 mm 5.46 mm 5.500 to 5.512 mm 5.55 mm 0.010 to 0.037 mm 0.08 mm 0.9tu1.1mrrl 1.5mm 42.14 mm 4000 mm 35.1! mm 3600 mm 19.4 to 19.6 mm 6.555 to 5.570 mm 6.54 mm 6.600 to 6.615 mm 6.69 mm 0.030 to 0.060 mm 0.00 mm 6.9mm mm 1.5mm 42.83 mm 110.50 mm Engine, clutch and transmission 2-5 Valves, guides and springs — XLSOOV-M to T [1991 to 1996) models (continued) Exhaust valva icontinued) Spring free length , inner spring Standard ............................................. Service limit ........................ Guide projectiun haiglii (above cylinder head). Valve clearances ............ . ........... 38.81 mm 35.0 mm 17. 9 to 15.1 mm See Chaplerl Valves, guides and springs- -XL600V— V to X (1591 to 1999) models Intake valve stem diameter Standard . . Service Iimil Guide bore diameter Standard Service limit srerri-lc-guida clearance Standard Service limit Seat Width Standard . . . . Service limil Service limit Spring lree length - nner spring Standard. Service limit. Guide pralection height (above cylinder head) . Exhaust VBlVR Stern dlame’ter Standard . . Service limit Gwde hole diameter Standard . . Service limit Stem-m-guide claamnce Standard . Sewlce limit ....... Seat Width Standard . Service limit — cu er spring Sen/Ice ilililt Spring free length — Standard Service iimii Guide projectlun height (above cylinder head) . Valve clearances ........................ inner spring Valves, guides and springs — XL650V models intake Valve Stem diameter Standard ............................................. Serviceilth .. V V Guide bole diameter Standard Service ilmn V Slem-to- -guide cie ra Slandard. Service limit Seal Width Standard . . V Service limll Spring free length - outer spring Standard .............. Service limit ............ 5.475 to 5.490 mm 5.45 mm 5.50010 5.520 mm 5.56 mm 0.010 to 0.045 mm 0.10 mm 0.9 to 1.1 mm 1.5 mm 42.14 mm 40.00 mm 3811 mm 35.00 mm 19.4 to 19.6 mm 6.565 to 6.570 mm 6.55 mm 6.600 to 6.520 mm 6.65 mm 0.035 I0 0050 mm 0.10 mm 0.9 to 1.1 mm 1.5 mm 4238 rrirn 40.50 mm 38.81 mm 360 mm 17 9 ti: 18.1 mm see Chapter 1 5.475 to 5.490 mm 5.47 mm 5.500 to 5.512 mm 5.53 mm 0010 I0 0037 mm 0.07 mm 0.9 to 1.1 mm 1.5mm 42.14 mm 40.50 mm 206 Engine, clutch and transmission Valves, guides and springs - XL650V models (continued) Intake valve (continuedi Spring tree length A Inner spring Standard . . . Service limit . . Guide proiectlon elg Exhaust valve Stern diameter Standard ....... Service Ilrnlt . . . . . Guide bare diamater Standard . . Service limit Stem-to-gulde clearance standard . . . Servxce limit Seat Width Standard Service Iirmt . Spring iree length cm er spring Standard . (above cy n Service iimit . Spring iree length — inner spring Standard Service ilmtl Guide projection height iauove cyllnder head) Valve clearances ............ Valves, guides and springs - XRWSO models intake valve Stern diamelei Standard Service limit . Guide bore diameter Standard . . . Semice limit Stem-iwulde clearance Standard . , Service iimit . Seat width Standard Service limi . Spring tree tengiii— outer spring Slandeid Service limit. . . Spring free tengm v inner spring Standard. . . Sen/ice limit. Guide projection height [above cylinder neadi Exhausl valve stem diameter Standard . . Service limit . Guide bare diameter Standard . Service iiml . Stemrlo—guide clearance standard . Service limit . Seat width Siandard. Service llinit. Spring lrsa langth— —dutar spring Standard ..... Service limit Spring tree length ainnar spring Standard. Service iimil. Guide protection height (above cylinder headi. Vaive clearances ........... 38.11 mm 3647 mm 19.4 (019.5 mm 6 555 to 6.570 mm 6.55 mm 6.600 to 6.615 mm 6.66 mm 0.080 to 0.060 mm 0.11 mm 0.9 [0 1.1 mm 1.5 mm 42.83 mm 41.25 min 38.81 mm 37.51 mm 17.9 to 13.1 mm see Chapter 1 5.475 to 5.490 mm 5.46 mm 5.500 to 5.512 mm 5.55 mm 0.010 to 0.037 mm 0.08 mm 03101.1 mm 1.5 mm 42.14 mm 40.00 mm 38.11 mm 36.00 mm 19.410106 mm 6.555 to 6.570 mm 6.54 mm 6 600 to 6.615 mm 5.69 mm 0.030113 0.060 mm 0.12 mm 0.9 to 1.1 mm 1.5 mm 42.83 mm 40.50 mm 36.81 mm 36.0 mm 17.9!018.1 ruin see criapieii Engine, cluich and transmission 2-7 Cylinders — XLGOOV models Ears diameter Standard Wear Iiynii . Taper (max) Ovallty (max) Warpage lmax). Cylinders— —XL650V models Bare diameter Slandard Wsarllmit . Taper(max) Ovallty (max) Warpage(max] Cylinders- -XRV750 models Bole diameter Standard Wear limit , Taper (max) Ovality (max) Waipagermax) Pistans— XLGOOV models Pinon diameter (measured 10.0 mm up frcm skin. ai 90’ [0 piston pin axis) Standard . , Service llmil Oversizes . . Plslnnrlorbare clearance Slanderd . Ssrvice limit Piston pin diameter Standard . , Sen/ins limit Piston pin bore Standard Service Iimll Pisinn pin- -to-bore clearance Standard . . Service limll Connecting rad small and Manual diameler Standard .............................................. Service limit ........................................... Piston pin-ln-wnneciing rad small-end claarance Standard . Service llmil Pistons- XL650V models Pislori diameter (measured 12. 0 mm Up from skirl at 90’ lo plstan Dln axis) Standard Service Iimii Oversizes Pislan-imbare clearance Standard . . Sen/Ice Ilmlt Fision pln dlamefler Standard . . Service limii Piston pin bare Standard . . Service limil Plsion pin-to-bore clearance Standard .......................................... Service llmll ...................... Continuing rod smailflnd internal diameter Standard . . Servlce llrrlll. 75.00 20 75.01501”! 75.17 mm 0.05 mm 0.05 mm 0.10 mm 70.00 [D 79015 mm 79.05 mm 0.05 mm 0.05 mm 0.10 mm 51.0010 81.015 mm 81.15 mm 0.05 mm 0.08 mm 0.05 mm 74.965 to 74.990 mm 74.84 mm +0.25 mm. +0.50 mm 0.010 in 0.050 mm 0.32 mm 17.994lo18.000 mm 17.80 mm 100021010008 mm 15.05 mm 0.00210 0.014 mm 0.025 mm 15.01610 18.034 mm 18.09 mm 0.01510 0.0410 mm 0.029 mm 78 97010 73 990 mm 78.92 mm +0.25 mm. +0.5a mm 0.010 to 0.035 mm 0.13 mm 19.99410 20.000 mm 19.98 mm 20.002 to 20.003 mm 20.02 mm 0.002 10 0.014 mm 0.03 mm 20.016 to 20.034 mm 20.04 mm 2-8 Engine. clutch and transmission Pistons - XL650V models (continued) Fusmn plmomnnecmg rod small—end clearance Standard 0016 to 0.040 mm Sen/Ice “MM 006 mm Pistons — XRV150 models Piston diameter (measured 10.0 mm up 6mm skin. a! 90“ m pismn pm axis) Slandavcl ..... . . . . 50.970 to 30.990 mm San/ice limit . . 80.85 mm Overstzes . . . +0.25 mm. +0.50 mm Plston—(o-bcre c earanoe S‘andavd . . . 0.0m to 0.045 mm Service!lm1!.... . Plston pin diammar Slandard .. 0.15 mm ........ 19.99410 20.000 mm Service Nmil . . 19.93 mm Pistun pin bore Standard .................. 20.110211: 20003 mm service Iarm ................ 20.03 mm Piswn pin-io-bom creamnca Standard . 0.00le 0.014 mm SEW/ICE Ilmil . 0.04 mm Connecting rod small-end imemal diameter swam ... 20.016 ID 20034 mm Service hm“ . 20.05 mm P‘slon pin-tn-cannecflng rod small-end clearance Standard . .. . . . . 0.016 10 0,040 mm Semcs l‘rmn . . . 0.050 mm Piston rings — XLGODV models Ringilo—gruove cisarance Top ring Standard . . 0,015 to 0.045 mm Service lirnl! . 0.10 mm 2nd nng Standard . 0.015113 0.045 mm Sen/11:3 llmll . 0.10 mm End gap (installed) Tap rung Standard 0.10 lo 0.30 mm Serwce limit 0.50 mm 2nd ring Standard . . 0.10 to 0.30 mm Service fin“! . 0.50 mm on ring Standard . . 0.20 (a 0.70 mm Service llmll 0.90 mm Piston rings — XL650V models Ring-m-gmave dearance Tap ring Standard . . 0.02510 0055 mm Service Ilmlt 0.11 mm and ring Standard . . 0.01510 0045 mm Semce llmfl . 0.10 mm End gap (installed) Top nng Standard ..... 0.20 to 0.35mm Service “rm! . . . 0.7 mm 2nd 7mg Standard . . 0.35 to 0.50 mm SENice \Imi! 0.7 mm Oil rlng Standard . . 0.20 to 0.90 mm Service llml‘ . . 1.0 mm Engine. clulch and transmission 2-9 Piston rings — XRV750 models Hing-la-gmcve clearance Top ring Standard . . Sen/Ice Ill’nlt 2nd ring Slandard ......... Service firm! ....... End gap (mslalled) Top nng Standard .............. Service limit .............. 2nd (mg Standard . . . . . . Service limit ........ 011 mg Slandard Service lim Clutch - XLGOOV models Frichan plate (see Section 17 for idenfilicalim) Type A Ouannty . . Thickness Service Ilmi! ............................ Type B Quanllty . . Thickness Servlce llmit ....................... 2 ....... Plain plate Quamlly...... Warpagelmax) , Springs Freelength , Service limlt . lnpul shan diameler a! clutch housing gunde Standard . . Sen/Ice limlt , Clutch housing guide Internal diame‘er Slandard Service limrl . External diameler Smndard . Service Ilmi . Clutch housing Imama Slandam ,. . Service limlt , OII pump Kim/e sprockel in‘emal dlameier Slandard . . . Service Ilmll Clutch — XL650V models Fncllan Dlms (see Sectlon 17 fur Identlficatlon) Type A Quamlly . . Thlckness Service limi . Type a Quanllly . . Thickness Service llmll . Plain plats Ouemily . . . . waypage (max) 0.015 m 0.045 mm 0.08 mm 0.015 to 0.045 mm 0.08 mm 0.20 to 0.35mm DJ mm 0.35 m 0.50 mm 0.7 mm 0.20 to 0.80 mm 1.0 mm 5 2.92 h) 3.08 mm 2.6 mm 1 2.92 m 5.08 mm 2.6 mm 6 0.3 mm 39.0 mm 37.4 mm 21.957 lo 21980 mm 21.52 mm 21,991 tn 22.015 mm 2209 mm 31.95910 31.975 mm 3‘ .92 mm 32,000 to 32.025 mm 82.10 mm 32.000 lo 32.025 mm 3210 mm 7 2.82 lo 2.75 mm 2.3 mm 1 2.92 (a 3.03 mm 2.5 mm 7 0.3 mm 44.2 mm 42.2 mm 2010 Engine, clutch and transmission Clutch- XL650V models (continued) input shalt diameter at clutch houslng guide Standard. SaNlce limll Clutch housing guide internal diameter Standard . . Service Ilmll ..... External diameter Standard .. ... .................................. Service llmit .......................................... Oil pump drive sprocket Internal diameter Standard. . Service Iirnll Clutch- XHWSO medals Friction plate Quantity . V . Thickness . Sari/ice lll’l’lll . . Plain plate Quantity ,,,,,, . Warpage (max) . , Springs Free length . Servlce llmll. input shaft diameter at ciuicn hale'lng guide Slandard. Sarvlce llrnil. Cluicn housing guide Intsmal diameter Standard . Service limit . . External dlameter Standard Service limit on pump drive sprocket Internal dlameter Standard. . . Servlce lirnll Starter clutch- XL600V models Starter driven gear hub external diameter Standard .............................................. Service limit . . ................................... Starter clutch — XL650V models Starter driven gear hub external diameter Standard. . . . . . . . Sewice llmll Starter driven gear hub Internal diameter Standard. . Service limit Starter clutch- XRV750 models Starter driven gear hub external dlameler Standard . .. m . Service limit. . Starter driven gear hut: Internal dlameter Standard . . Sari/lice limit . . . . . . Connecting rods— XLSOOV and XL650V models Side clearance Standard . Service limit , Bearing oil clsararlce Slandard Sen/ice limit 21.967 to 21.980 mm 21.95 mm 2139‘ to 2.016 mm 2209 mm 31.959 to 31.975 mm 31.92 mm 32.02510 32.145 mm 32.15 mm 7 3.72 to 3.88 mm 3.5 mm 6 0.15 mm 41.2 mm 39.0 mm 24.967 lu 24.980 mm 24.95 mm 24.991 to 25.016 mm 2503 mm 34.966 to 34.984 l'nrn 34.96 mm 35.025 to 35.075 mm 35.10 mm 57.749 to 57.758 mm 57.60 mm 57.749 to 57.758 mm 57.73 mm 37.000 to 37.025 mm 37.1!) mm 57.749 to 57.768 mm 9.73 mm 40.000 to 40.021 mm 40.10 mm 0.05 to 0.20 mm 0.30 mm 0.028 to 0.052 mm 0.07 mm Engine, clutch and transmission 2-11 Connecting rods — XLSOOV and XL65OV models (continued) Big-end Inlemal diameter Size code 1 . 43.000 to 43.003 mm Slle code 2 . 4900810 43.016 mm orankprn dlameler Size code A. 39.932 Io 39.990 mm 8112 code B Fol cannecting md Small- -end Specrfications see under ‘Pisrans' Connecting rods - XRV750 models 39.974 to 39.983 mm Side clearance Standard 0.1510 0.30 mm SENIEe liml . 0.4 mm Bearlng all clearance Standard . 0.028 to 0.052 mm Service limit. 0.10 mm Big-end internal dIameler Size code | ............... 46.00010 46.008 mm Slze code 2 ......... 46 005 (D 46.016 mm Crankpln diameter Size cone A. 42.982 10 42.990 mm Size code 5 42.974 to 42.982 mm For cannactr'ng rod smaira Crankshaft and bearings — XLSOOV and XL650V models Mam bearing all clearance Istons’ pa 1 10a Ions see un er 5181!de . [1.025 In 0.041 mm Serwce llrni . 0.06 mm Flunout (maxi . 0.05 mm Crankshaft and bearings- XRV750 models Main beanng oil clearance Standard . . 00251120041 mm Service llml! 0.10 mm Flunout(max] . 0.03 mm Transmissinn- XLSDOV models Gear Iallns (No. ai‘ [3611!) H 10 F1 11907 to 1995) models Primary reduction .......................... 1.855 to 1 (BS/GET) Final reduchol‘l . 3.133101 (IV/151'] 151ng .. . 2.5711D1(36/14T] 2nd gear . 1777101027191) 3rd gear . . 1.330 to 1 (ZS/21‘” 4th gear 1.125 to 1 (27/2AT] 51h gear T to X11995 to 1999) models Primary reduanon . Final reduction , 0.951 to 1 (25/261) 1,855 10 1 [SB/361') 3.133101 (47/1513 1st gear 2 500 Io 1 (35/1411 2nd gear . 1.72210 1 (31/1811 avg gear 1.333 Io 1 (23/2111 4th gear 1.11110160/2Tr) 51h gear . 0.951 m 1 (25/2611 Gear ID Input shall 41h and 51h gears, umpul Shafl 2nd and 3rd gears Sundard 2a 000 to 28.021 mm SeIVIce “ml. 23 04 mm Oulput snan 151 gear Standard . 24 000 to 241.021 mm Servrce limit . 24.04 mm Gear bushing on Inpul arm «11 and 5m gears, outpm shafl 2nd and 3rd gears Standard ............................................ 27.959 Io 27.930 mm Servrea limil .......... . .......................... 27.94 mm Ompul shafl 151 gear Standard . 23.95910 23.980 mm Serwce 11mm . 23.94 mm 2-12 Engine, clutch and transmission Transmission — XLBDOV models (continued) Gear bushing ID Input shatt Am gear output strait 2nd and 3rd gears Standard. 25.000 to 25.021 mm Service limit 25.04 mm Output snatt lst gear standard . ............. 20.016 to 20.037 mm Service limit ............ 20.05 mm Gaelic-bushing clearance standard. 0020 to 0,062 mm Service iimit 0.10 mm Input strait on at 4th gear bush point Standard , 24.959 to 24.990 rrirn Sen/Ice limit 24.90 mm Output shaft on 1st gear bush pom! Smndard. 19.990 to 19.993 mm Service IImll. 19.92 mm 2nd and 3rd gear buan paint Standard 24.959 to 24.950 mm Service limit . 24.90 mm shafl-tu—bushing clearance Standard . . 0.005 to 0,047 mm Service limit . . .. 0.06 mm Gear backlash Isi gear Standard . 0.099 to 0.170 mm Service limit r 0.24 mm 2nd. 3rd, 4th and t gears Standard . 0,068 to 0.136 mm Sen/ice limit . t l 0.18 mm Transmission - XL65OV models Gear ratios (No. 0! team) Primary reduction . Final reduction . . lat gear . . 2nd gear . (in! gear. 4th gear . 5m gear . 1.763 to 1 167/330 3.200 to 1 2.500 to 1 (35/141) 1.722 te1 (31/1911 1333 to 1 (20/2113 1,111t01190/27T) 0.951 to 1 (25/261) Gear ID (input snarl 4th and 5th gears output shaft st gears) Standard . 29.000 to 20.021 mm Service ilmi . 25. 03 mm Gear bush OD (input shah 4th and 5th gears. output shaft isl 2nd arid 3rd gears) Standard. 27 959 to 27 980 mm Samoa limit. . 27 95 mm Gear bush ID (input shaft 4th gear, output shat! 2nd and 3rd gears) Standard. 25.000 to 25,021 mm Servlcs iimit 25. 03 mm Gear [0 bush clsarance (input shat! 4th and 51h gears. Ioutput shaft 15L 2nd and 3rd gears) Standard. D. 020 to 0 062 mm Service limit 0. GB mm Inpul shalt on 4th gear bustling point Standard 24.959 to 24.950 mm Service limit 24.95 mm Crankcaae journal A Standard .. 19.930te19993 mm Service limit 19.96 mm Crankcasa journai B Standard . . 21.967 to 21,990 mi'n Service limit 21.94 mm Output shafl on 2nd and 3rd gear alien point Standard 24.959 to 24.990 mm Service limit 24.95 mm Engine, clutch and transmission 2-13 Transmission - XL650V models (continued) output shaft on (contlnueal crankcase ioumal A Standard . . . 21.967 to 21.950 mm Service iirnit . . . 21.94 ITIITI orankcaas loumai B Standard ............................ 21 957 to 21.930 mm Service limit ........................ . 21.94 mm Shatt- div—bushing clearance (Input shalt 4th gear mutant shaft 2nd and 3rd gears) Standard . D 020 to D 062 mm Service Ilrrln . . Transmission - XRV750 models Gear ratios (No. of teeth) Lto N (1990 to t992) models 008 mm Primary reductlon .............. 1.763 to 1 (67/3811 Final reduction . 2.575 to 1 (AB/161') 1sigeer . . 3.05:1 to 1 (37/12T) 2nd gear . 2.05210 1 issuer) 3rd gear . . 1.550 ta 1 (31/2017 4m gear. 1.272 to l [EB/22D 5m gsar.1.033tu 1 (as/241') l= models onwards [1993 on) Prlmary reduction . 1.763 to 1 (swan Flnal reduction . 2.812 to1 (45/16T) 1st gear . . 3.083 m 1 (37/121) 2nd gear . 2.0e2 to1 (33/1617 (in! gear 1.550 to 1 (311mm Atil gear 1.272 to 1 (EB/221') 5». gear . . 1.083 to 1 (26/2411 Gear iD Input shaft (in! and 51h gears Standard . 23.000 tn 25.021 mm Service liml . 28.04 mm Output shaft lst, 2nd and 4m gears Standard . 311000 to 31.025 mm Service llmi 31.05 mm Gear bushing 0D Input shalt 3rd and 5th gears Standard. 4 27.959 to 27.980 mm Service lirni 27.94 mm Output shaft 1st, 2nd and diri gears Standard . . 30.95010 30.975 rnm Service limlt . 30.93 mm Gear bushing ID Input shaft 3m gear Standard . . . 25.00010 25.021 mm Service limit . 25.04 mm Output shafl 2nd gear Standard . 27.995 to 26.016 mm Servlca limit . 28.04 mm Gsar-Io-bushl‘ng clearance Input shaft. 3rd and 5m gear Standard 0.020 ID 0062 mm Service Itmlt. 0.10 mm ompul shaft 151. 2nd and 4th gears Standard 0.025 10 0.075 mm Service iimi . . 0.11 mm Input any: on 3rd gear bushing point Standard . . 24.972 to 24,993 mm Service ilmi . 24.95 mm crankcase iourna Standard . 19,980 to 191993 mm Service ilrni 19.95 mm crankcase joumai B Standard . . . . 24,980 to 24.993 mm Service limit . . 24.96 mm 2-14 Engine, clutch and transmission Transmission - XRV750 models (continued) Output shaft on 2nd gear bushtng point Standard Service Iirnrt crankcase journal A Standard Service limit. crankcase journal 8 Standard Service limit Shaft toeusning clearance input snart 3rd gear Standard A Service lirnlt Output strait 2nd gear Standard. Service Ilmii Selector drum and forks- XLGOOV models Selector lurk end lhlckness Standard . Sen/ice Ilmr Selecter rcrk Dore ID Standard Service limit Selector lork strait OD Standard. Service limit Selector drum on at l.1le Iell hand Journal Standard. . Service llmil Selector drum and lorks- XL650V models Selector rent end thickness Standard Service limit Selector tork bore ID Standard Service limit Seleetm rork shaft 0D Standard . Service limit . Selector drum on at the left hand ieumal standard. Service limit Selector drum and torks- XRV'ISO models Selector lurk end thickness Standard Service limit Selectdr rent bore ID Standard . . Semce Iliilrl . Selector rdrk sha Standard Service limit Lubrication system Oil lype visceslty and capacity , on pressure (at oil pressure swllch wtlti engine wennt XL madels. . xnv medals Oil pump rotor llprmnouler rotor clearance Standard . Service limit. Oil pump outer rotor- -to- body clearance Standard . . . Service lirn t . 27.967 to 27.980 mm 27.95 mm 27.972 to 27.990 mm 27.95 mm 19.980'015393 mm 19.96 mm 0.007 to 0.049 mm 0.08 mm 0.015 10 0.045 mm 0.08 mm 5.93 to 6.00 mm 5.53 mm 13.000t913.018 mm 13.04 min 12.95610 12.984 mm 12.90 mm 13.966 to 13.954 mm 13.90 mm 533 to 6.00 mm 5.60 mm 13.000lo13t021 mm 13.04 mm 12.96619 12.954 mm 1230 mm 113561011334 mm 11.90 mm 5.93 (a 6.00 mm 5.90 mm 13.000t013.021 mm 13 04 mm 12.966 to 12.954 mm 12.95 mm see Chapter 1 64 psi (45 Bar) @ 5000 rpm. oil a we 71 to 85 psl (5.0 to 6.0 Bar) @ 5000 rpm. oil ‘3 BDRC 0.15 mm 020mm 0.15 to 0.22 mm 0.35 mm Engine. clutch and transmission 2-15 Lubrication system (continued) Oil pump rotor and neat Standard . . Service limit Torque settings Engine mounting bolts — XLEOOV models Upper front mounting brackets bolt nuts . Uppei iront mounting bolt nut . Lower irom mounting ball nut . . . Swmgarm pivot/rear mounting bolt nut u Engine mounting bolts— XLGSOV models Uppev imnt mounting brackets bull nuis . Upper imnt mourning bolt nui . Lower from mounting bolt nut . . Swingarrn pivot/rear mounting bu nui . Engine mounting bolts— XRV75D- L to N (1990 to 1 992) models Mounting bracket to frame bolts/nuts ..... Mounting bracket-to-engine 3 mm bolts/nuts , Mounting bracket-io—engine 10 mm bolts/nuis Swingarrn pivoI/rear mounting bolt nut V V V V Engine mounting bolts- XRVTSDnP models onwards [l993-Dn) Lower frame section bolts/nuts ................. Cyllnder head hmcketrIOrfiame/englne bolls/nuis Mounting bracket-tifirame bolts/nuts ..... Mounting brackeblo‘engine 8 mm bolls/nuts . Mounting hranket»tn-engine 10 mm bolts/nuts ‘0 mm engine mounting bolts/rims . V Swingarm pivai/rear maurm'ng bolt nui . Oil molar and distributor »XRV750 models Coolar mounting bolts .......... Pipe union and retaining plate bulls Pipegulde bulls . Valve cover bolts . Carnsl'iafl main holder bolts and nuts Camshaft and holds! bolts , , . Camshaft spracket baits V , Cam chain tensioner mounting bolts . Cylinder haad nuts/bolts 10 mm nuis XLSOOV H and J (1987 and 1988) models To mm nuts all othsi’ models , 8 mm nut/Delis . 6 mm boll . . External uil pipe XLSUUV-H to K (1587 to 1989) models 6 and/or 7 mrn bolts , 8 mm bolt ........ Clutch nut XLGOOV-H and .I (1987 and 1988) models .................... XLSOOV»K i0 X [7989 [0 1595) mudeis . XLfiSW models V V . . XRWSO models . . . ciuicn release plate bolts on pump driven sprocket bolt . Clutch cover bolts .......... Gaaichange selector drum cam plate bull . Gaaichange stopper arm boll . Prlmary dilve gear bolt . . Starter clutch bolts XLBDW H and J (1937 and 1933) models . All ull’lsr models .............. (Minder studs 6 mm stud . . 10 mm studs . crankcase bolts Bmmboits .u .u 6 mm bulls Connecting md nuts XLEUUV and XLBSOV models XRWSU mndels 0 02 to 0.07 mm 0.10 mm 27 Nrn 55 Nm 55 Mm 110 Min 27 Nm 55 Nm 55 Niii BU Nm 33Nm 33 Nm 55Nm 11!) Nm 55 Nm 53 Nm 32 Nm 32 Nm 53 Min 53 Nm 106 Nm i2 Nm IZNm 12 Nm 10M"! 23 Nm 10Nri'l 23Nm 10Nrn 43 Min 47 Nm 23 Nm 12 Nm 10 Min 23 N!" 90 Mn ‘25 Nm 125 Nm 128 Min 12 Nm 15 Nm 12 Nm 12 Nm 12 Nm 88 Nm 23 Nm 30 Min 20 to 30 Nm 30 in 50 Nm 23 Nm 12 Nm 34 Nm 42 Nm -16 Engine, clutch and transmission 1 General information The enginytransmlssion unit Is a water— cooled 52t \l-twin, litted pal'allsl with the trams. The engine has three valves per cylinder, two for the intake and one for the exhaust, operated by a single dvarheeo camshaft vla rocker arms. The Camshafts are chain driven Oil the crankshaft The engine/transmission unit is constructed in aluminium alloy and the crankcase is divided vertically, The crankcase Incorporates a wet sump. pressure led lubrication SYSternl and houses a chain driven oil pump. The One- plece forged crankshari runs in two main bearings, The lenshand and of the crankshaft carries the allemator rotor. on XLSOOV and XLasov models the ignition timing rotor is on the right-hand and oi the crankshaft. On xnv750 models the ignition timing triggers are lncoroorated in the alternator rotor. The Clutch Is oi the wet multlvolate type and is gear driven all the urankshalt, The trans mission is at the liveaspeed constant mesh type. Final drive to the rear wheel is via a chain and sprockets. 2 Operations possible with the engine in the frame The components and assemblies listed below can be removed Withoul having to remove the engine/transmission assembly from the lrarne. I1 however. a number of areas require attention at the same time, removal or the engine is recommended. Valve covers Cam chain tensioners Camshafts and rockers Refit Cylinder head (XLESUVand XFIV75OJ Water pump Ignition timing rotor and pulse generator carlrs) Clutch Gearcnange mechanism Starter motor Alternator Starter clutch and idle gear 3 Operations requiring engine removal It is necessary to remove the enginel transmission assembly item the trains and separate the crankcase halves to gain access to the tollowing components: Cylinder heads (XLGDUW Front cylinder head (XLsool/ano xnwsa) Cylinder barrels, pistons and piston rings Connecting rad oigends and bearings Crankshaft and bearings Transmission shorts Selector drum and forks oil pump 4 Major engine repair — general note 1 it is not always easy to determine when or it an engine should be completely overhauled. as a number at lactois must be considered 2 High mlleage is not necessarily an indication that an overhaul is needed. while low mileage, on the other hand. does not preclude the need lor an overhaul. Frequency oi servicing is probably the single most important consideration. All engine that has regular and frequent oil and tiller changes. as well as other requwed maintenance. will most likely give many miles of reliable service. Conversely. a neglected engine. or one which has not been run in properly. may require an overhaul very early in its lilac 3 Exhaust smoke and excessive oil consumption are both indications that piston rings and/or valve guides are in need of attention, although make sure that the laull is not due to oil leakage, 4 lithe englrie is making obvious knocking or nimbiing noises. the connecting rods and/or main bearings are probably at fault. 5 Loss or power. rough running, excessive valve train noise and high iuel consumption may also point to the need lor an overhauli especially ii they are all present at the same timei Ir a complete turmLup does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution. 6 An engine overhaul generally involves restoring the internal parts to lhe specifications or a new engine. The piston rings and main and connecting rod bearings are usually replaced and the cylinder walls honed or. ll necessary. re-bored [oversize pistons are availaolal. during a maior overhaul. Generally the valve seats are re- ground, since they are usually in less than perfect Condition at [his point. The and result should be a like new engine that will give as many trouble-tree miles as the original. 7 Before beglnnirig the engine overhaul. read through the related procedures to lamillal'lse yoursell wlth the scope and requirements or the job. Overhauling an engine is not all that difficult. but It is time consuming. Plan on the motorcycle being tied up tor a mlnirnuiri of two weeks, Check on the availability at parts and make sure that any necessary special tools equipment and supplies are obiained in advance. a Most work can be done with typical workshop hand tools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required for inspecting parts to detemwine it they must be renewed. Often a dealer will handle the inspection or parts and alter advice oonceming reconditioning and renewal. As a general rule, time is the primary cost at an overhaul so it does not pay to install worn or substandard parts 9 As a final note. to ensure maximum lite and minimum trouble lrom a rebuilt engine. everything must be assembled with care in a spotlessly clean environment. 5 Engine - removal and installation Iii/x? Caution: The engine is very heavy. Engine removal and installation should be (:81?in out with the old of at least one assistant; personal injury or damage could occur II the engine rails or is dropped, A hydraulic or mechanical floorjack should be used to support and lower or raise the engine it available. Removal 1 Position the bike on its cammatand il titted or supporl ll securely in an upright position ustng an auxiliary stand — do not use a stand which attaches to the swingarm pivots because the swingarm must be removed. Work can be made easier by raising the machine to a suitable working height on an hydraulic ramp or a suitable piatiorm. Make sure the motorcycle is secure and will no! topple over (also see Tools and Workshop Tips in the Ralerence sectioni, 2 it the engine is dirty. particularly around its mountings, wash it lhoroughiy oeiore starting any major dismantling work. This will make work much easier and rule out the possibility oi caked on lumps or dirt falling into some vital component. 3 Remove the seat and the side panels (see Chapter 8). Disconnect the battery negative l-i lead (see Chapter 9) 4 Remove the lairiiig side panels lxtaoov and XHV/SUl or lairing lXL550Vl. the stone guard and the belly pan (see Chapter B). 5 Dmin the Engine all and remove the oil filter (see Chapter 1). 6 Drain the coolant (see Chapter ll. 7 Remove lha luel tank (see Chapter 4). 3 Remove the caiburetlors (see Chapter 4] Plug the engine intake rnaniloios with clean rag. on XLESUV models. remove the PAIH system control valve, delachlr‘ig its hoses lrom the engine rather than (its vaive ltsall (see Chapter 4). 9 0n XL models, remove the horn (sea Chaplerel. 10 Remove the radiators along Wltn their noses (Le. detach the hoses lioni the engine and water pump instead oi the radiator) (see Chapter 3). Also detach and remove the haselsl between the water puma and the inlet unionls) on the engine. On XHV750 models also remove the oil cooler (see Section 7), 11 Remove the hunt sprocket lsae Chapter 6). 12 Remove the ignlilon HT culls (see Chap ter 5). Engine. clutch and transmission 2-17 5.14 Detach the starter motor lead (Al and the earth load (a) 13 Remove the exhaust system (Chapter A). 14 Pull back the rubber but)! covering the starter meter terminal. then unscrew the nut and detach the lead (see illustration). Also unscrew the relevant mounting bolt to release lile earth cable. 15 Detach the clutch caole rrorn the release arm on the ciulch cover (see Section 19). Release the cable from any guides and secure holes! of the engine. noting its routing, 16 Trace the ignition pulse generator wiring and disconnect ll al the connector — on XL modeis it exits from the Tram Oi lhe clutch cover on the right-hand side oi the englne. and on XRV models from the altemetor cover on lhe left-hand side. Coil the wiring between the winners so rt does not Impede engine removal. 17 Full 0" the neutral switch wiring connector lsee illustration). Pull back the mbber cool on the oil pressure switch then undo the screw securing the wiring connector in lhe switch (see illustration). Free the writ-g imrn any clips or guides and secure rt clear oi the engine, noting Its routing. Ii you preler to leave the wiring attached to the switches. trace it to its main connector and disconnect it, than teed the wiring back and coil ll between the cylinders. Also check the routing oi the sideetarld switch wiring (trom the switch to lis connector) - it (as on some models) It is routed along with the neutral swtoh and oil pressure swllcl'l wires. then you need to has it from any clips and guides lhal attach it to the engine and position It clear. ll housing bolts ch the neutral switch wiring connector . . . (as on most models) it is routed away trom the engine along the frame tuber then you can leave It alone ‘8 Trace the alternator wiring from the cover on the lettAhanu Side oi the engine and disconnect It at the connector. than coll the wlring in between the cylinders so that it dues not impede engine removal. Note that on XLGODV models you wlll have to unscrew the air filter housing bolts. nollng the collars. and push the housing back to enable the wiring connector to pass between it and the irerne (see illustration). On XLSODV models. also unscrew the coolant reservuir bolts and displace it back so that it will be clear of the engine — there is no need to detach the hoses (see Illustretlon). 19 On XL650V and XRWSO models, remove the rear brake pedal (see Chapter 7). 20 On XLGODV and XFlV750-L In N (1990 to 1992) models. unscrew the bolts securing the frame cross-member. noting which way round it his, end the earth Wires secured by one bolt (see illustration). 21 As the swingorrn pivot bolt doubles as one or the engine mounting bolts. removing the swingarrn means that it will not interfere with the process of manoeuvring the engine within the frame. The alternative is [0 displace the swingarm rearwards as lar as possible arter the coil is removed. The engine and swingarm do riot remain tight in the frame after the nut has been unscrewed and the amount or lnterlerence created is not that great. so base 5.15!) Coolant reservoir belts (snowed) . , . and the oil pressure switch wiring connector your decision on the amount or assistance you have. lhe amount or time you have to carry out the extra work, and your experience as a mechanic. To remove the swrngarm. refer to Chapter 6; otherwise follow the procedure below for your model ror removing the swingarrn pivot/engine mounting bolt. 22 At this point, position an hydraulic or mechanical look under the engine with a block of wood hatween the lack head and sump. Make sure the lack is centrally positioned so the engine will not topple in any direction when lhe last mounting bolt is removed. Raise lhe jack to take the weight or the engine. bul make sure it is not lifting the blke and taking the weight or that as well. The idea is to support the engine so that there is no pressure on any or the mounting bolts once they have been slackenso. so they can be easily withdrawn Note that it may be necessary to adlust the jack as some of the bolls are removed to relieve the stress lransierred to the other bolts. Also place rags between the engine and frame to protect the paintwork as some Contact between them is inevitable. Alter removing any mounting bolt, ht any spacer and/or bracket that go with the bolt back unto it. in the correct order and way round, then thread the nut Drill} lhe End of the ball , this ensures that everything can he reassembled with ease later on. and trial no brackets Dr spacers can be lilted the wrong way round or In the wrong piace. In the case of through»bolts. also make a note of which slde oi the bike the boil goes in from. 5.2a Unscrew the bolts mound) and remove the lrarne piece. noting the earth wires — XLBOOV shown 2-18 Engine, clutch and transmission 5.23s human-tho pivat cap, than slacker! the nut (arrawm) 5.24b VVllhdraw the upper trout mounting bolt XLBDOV models 23 It the swlngamt has not been removed. remove the cap trom each end at the swing- arrn pivot/rear mounting bolt. then slackan the 5.255 Unsmw ths nut . . . 533i: Lower tront mounting bolt nut (A) upper front mnunting bolt nut (B) 5.24:: unscrew the nuts and remove the right-hand bracket . . . nut (see Illustration). Also slacken the lower trnnt mnunting bolt nut (see illustratlon). 24 Unscrew the two bolts securing the fairing slds panel and belly pan support piece and remove it. noting how it fits (see lllustra‘tlon). Unscrew the nut an the upper tront engine mounting bolt [see Illustration 5.233) and Withdraw the bolt (59: Illustration). Unscrew the nuts on the upper front mounting bracket bolts. than withdraw the bolts and remove the brackets, noung how they fit (see Illustrations). 25 Check that the englne ls property supooned on the lack. lf the swingarm has not been removed, unscrew the nut on the swlngarm pivot/rear mounting butt. Withdraw the swlngaml pivot/rear mounting bolt. then push the swingarrn back so that It is clear at me engine (see Illustrations). 26 Check that all Wirlng. cables and hoses are well clear at the engine. that the englne Is stm properly supported on the Jack, and that 525a . . . and withdraw the swingarm pivot/rear mounting hon 525a Unscrew the nut. withdraw the bolt and remove the spacer 5.24a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and remove the support piece 5,2441 . u .then withdraw the bolts and remove the ten—hand piece. noting how all components fit your asststantts) is/are ready. Unscrew the nut on the lower tront maunttng bolt. then withdraw the bolt. and remove the spacer that I tits between the right-hand frame bracket and the engine (see Illustrations). Move the back at the engine ta the right and disengage the drive Chalrt 1mm around the transmission output shart and gearchange shaft (see illustratian), Lift the from of the ehglna so that the front cylinder is raised, theft till it to the left, and manoeuvre the engine out tram the le . and aids. making sure the sump clears the frame tube to avoid scratchlng it (set illustration), XLBSOV madels 27 It the Swingarm has nut been removed, remnve the cap tram each end of the swingarm pivot/rear mounting bolt, than slackan the nut. Alsn slacken the lower hunt mounting butt nut. 5.2% Dissngage the drive chain tram around tn: shaft . . A Engine, clutch and transmission 2-19 28 Unscrew the two boils securing the fairing side panel and psiiy pan support piece and remove it, noting how it its. Unscrew the nut on ma upper lmht engine mounting bait. then withdraw the bull. and remove the spacers that fit betwaen the brackets and the engine. Unscrew the nuts on the bracket bolts. then withdraw the bolts and remove the brackets. nollng how they fit. 29 Check that the engine is property supported on the tack. ii the swingarm has “0| been removed. unscrew the nut on the swingarm plvntJrear mounting bolt. Withdraw the swingarm plvoi/raar mounting boit. then push the swingarm back so that it is ciear at the engine. 30 Check that all Wiring. cables and hoses are well clear at the engine. that the engine is still pmperly supported on the lack. and that your assistanttsi is/are ready, Unscrew the nut on the lower front mcuntrng bclt. then withdraw the bolt and remove the spacer that tits between the righirhand lrame bracket and the engine. Move the back or the engine to the right and disengage the drive chain from around the transmission output shaft and gearchange shah. Lift the front at the engine 50 that the lrant cylinder is raised. than llit it to the right. and manoeuvre the engine cut trurn the right-hand side. making sure the sump clears the irame tube to avoid Scratching IL XRV750-L to N (1990 to 1992) models at It the swihgarm has not been removed. remove the CED tram each end oi the swingarm prDl/rear mounting bolt. then slmkai'i the nut, 32 Unscrew the two bolts securing the lairtng srdc panel and luei tarik support piece and iamove it. noting how it fits. 33 Unscrew the tour bolts securing the tram cyiinder head bracket between the engine and heme and remove il. noting the spacer fitted with the outer bolt. 34 Unscrew the nut on the upper front engine mounting halt. then Withdraw the bolt and and careruny manoeuvre the app na out at the trams remove the fairing support piece brackets. noting how they tit. Unscrew the nuts and Withdraw the bolts Securing the upper iron! brackets and remove them. noting how they fit. 35 Unscrew the nut on the lower front mounting bolt, than withdraw the bolt and remove the spacer that fits between the right- hand bracket and the engine. Unscrew the two bolts securing each lower tmnt mounting boit bracket and remove them. noting how they ilL as Check that the engine is properly supported on the luck, Unscrew the nut on the upper rear mounting bolt. than withdraw the bolt and remove the spacers that lit between the frame and the Mgii’ie, rioting which fits where Unscrew the nuts and withdraw the bolts securing the upper rear mnurtting bolt bracket on the rightrhand side and remove it. noting how it fits. 37 if the swmgarm has not been removed, unscrew the rut on the swingarm pivot/rear mounting bolt. Withdraw the swlngarm pivot/rear mounting halt, then push the swingarm back so that it is clear at the engine. 38 Check that all wiring. cables and hoses are weli ciear oi the engrnc. that the engine is still properly supported on the jack. and that your assistahtrsi is/are ready. Move the back or the engine to the right and disengage the drive chain tram around the transmission output shall and gearchange shaft Lift the tram or the engine so that the lrortt winner is raised. then tilt ll to the right. and manoeuvre the angina out trim the righlrhand Side. making sure the sump cicars the tram tube to avoid scratnhing it. XRWSO-P models onward (teas-on) 39 if the swingarrn has not been removed. remove the cap irnm each end at the swingarm pivot/rear mounting bolt. then slacken the nut. 40 Unscrew the lam bolts securing the front cylinder head bracket between the engine and 5,443 Unscrew the nut (A), noting the spacer (B). Bracket bolts (C) irame anu remove it. noting the spacers fitted with the lower bolts. 41 Unscrew the riLll on the lower ironl mounting bolt. lhan withdraw the bait and remove the spacer that Ms between the right- hand bracket and the engine 42 Unscrew the four baits securing the lower trams sectian on the right-hand side and remove it. noting how it 'llS r the rear bolts have nuts which will have to be Counter-held. 43 Unscrew the two colts securing the lower front mounting bolt bracket on the left-hand side and remove it, noting how it fits. 44 Unscrew the nut on the upper rear mounting bolt. then withdraw the bait and mmova the spacers that lit hem/earl the frame and the engine. noting which fits where (see illustrations). Unscrew the nuts and Withdraw the halts securing the upper raar mounting bolt bracket on the right—hand side and remove it. noting how it tits, 45 Check that the engine is properly supported on the jack. Unscrew the nut on the upper trant engine mounting bolt and remove the guide. then Withdraw the bolt and remove the spacer from between the bracket and engine. Unscrew the nuts and withdraw the bolts securing the upper front brackets. noting the subabracket, and remove them. noting haw they fit. sMb Withdraw the bait. noting the spacer (snowed) 2-20 Engine, clutch and transmission 48 If the swingarm has not been removed, unscrew the nut on the swingarrn pivot/rear mounting bolt. Withdraw the swingarnl pivot/roar mounting bolt. then push the swxngarrn back so that it is clear of the engine. 47 Check that all wiring. cables and hoses are well clear or the engine. that the engine is still properly supported on the lack. and that your assistant(s) lslare ready. Move the hack oi the engine to the right and disengage the drive chain from around the transmission output shaft and gearchenge shaft. Lift the front cit the engine so that the fanl cylinder is raised. then tilt it to the right. and manoeuvre the engine out from the Vlgl’ltrhand side. making sure the sump clears the trains tube to avoid scratching it. Installation 48 Installation is the reverse 0' removal. noting the loilowlng points: I Make sure no wires. cables or hoses become trapped between the engine and the lrame when Installing the engine. 0 ii the swingarrn has not been removed. do not lorgct to loop the drive chain around the transmission output shaft as you install the engine. 0 Do not tighten any ot the engine mounting bolts unlll they have all been Installed. Make sure the spacers are correctly positioned. a Tighten the engine mounting boils and any other bolts to the torque settings specified at the beginning at the Chapter. I Use new gaskets at all exhaust pipe connections. 0 Make sure all wires. cables and hoses are correctly routed and connected. and secured by any clips or tics. I Fit 3 new oil lilter and refill the engine with oil (see Chester 1). O Relill the cooling system with coolant (see Chapter 1). o Adiusl the throttle and clutch cable irseplay [see Chapter 1). 6 sons diauoasmw andmaaasmbhia ‘ general information Disassembly 1 colors disassembling the engine. thoroughly clean and degrease its external surfaces. This will prevent contamination or the engine Internals. and will also make working El lOI easier and cleaner. A high ilasn~ point solvent. such as paraffin (kerosene) can be used. or better still. a proprietary engine degreaser. Use old palntprushes and toothbrushes to work the solvent into the various recesses oi the casings. Take care to exclude solvent or water from the electrical components and intake and exhaust ports. Warning: The use arpetml (gasoline) as a cleaning agent should be avoided because allhe risk offlru. ‘\7 ‘l 7.3 on cooler mounting bolts (arrcwed) 2 When clean and dry. position the engine on the workbench. leaving suitable clear area for working. Gather a selection of small containers. plastic bags and some labels so that parts can be grouped together In an easily identifiable mariner. Also get some paper and a pen so that noise can be taken. You will also need a supply of clean rag. which should be as absorbent as possible. a Eloicre commencing work, read through the appropriate section so that some idea 0! the necessary procedure can be gained. When removing components note that great force ls seldom required. unless spaciiiad (checking the speciiied torque setting oi the particular bolt being removed will inmcate how tight it is, and therefore how much lorce Should be needed). in many cases. a component's reluctance to be removed is indicative of an incorrect approach or removal method ~ ii in any doubt recheck with the text. Its crankcase. Alternatively place indiviouai blocks under the crankcase as required to ensure the Engine is stable. 4 When disassembling the engine. keep 'mated' parts together (including gears. cylinder bores. pistons. connecting rods. valves. etc. that. have been In contact With each other during engine operation). These ‘mated' parts must be reused or replaced as an assembly. 5 A complete engine/transmissmn disassembly should be done In the following general order with raierence to the appropriate Sections, Remove the valve savers Remove the Camshafts and cam chain tensia/iers 6... _ — 7.4a Unscrew the pipe retaining plate ooits (arrowad) . . . Remove the cylinder heads Remove the cylinder barrels Remove the pistons Remove the water/pump (see Chapter 3) Remove the pulse generator coils (see Chapter 5) Remove the clutch Remove the geamharige mechanism Remove the primary drive gear Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 9) Remove the aitcmatcr rotor {see Chap— ter 9) Remove the starter clutch and idle gear Separate the crankcase halves Remove tire oil pump Remove the crankshaft and the connecting rods Remove the selector drum and lurks Remove the transmission shafts/gears Reassembly a Rsassembly is accomplished by reversing the general disessernbiy sequence. R s Note: The oil cooler and distributor can be removed with the engine In the ironic. ll iris engine has been removed, ignore the srsps which do not apply. Oil cooler Removal 1 Tile cooler is located on the front of the engine on the leit-l'land side. Fiernove the stone guard. ano lhe belly pan [see Chapter 3]. To prevent the possibility or damage should a tool Slip. it Is advisable to remove the leitrhand railing side panel as well (see Chapter 6). 2 Drain tha engine oil (see Chapter 1). Keep the oil container handy to catch any residue OII iron! the cooler. 3 To remove the cooler withoul its iced and return pipes, unscrew the bolts securing the hose unions to the cooler and detach the hoses. Discard the O-rings as new ones must be used. Now unscrew the cooler mcunling bolts. noting the collars. and remove the cooler (see illustration], 4 To remove the cooler with its feed and return pipes. lirst remove the front sprocket cover [see Chapter 6). Unscrew the bolts securing the pipe retaining plate to the oil distributor on the crankcase and remove the plate. noting how it fits (see illustration). Unscrew the pipe guiaa bolts. then carsruiiy pull the pipe some out or the distributor (see illustration). Discard the Orrlngs as new ones must be used. Now unscrew the cooler mounting bolts. noting the collais. and remove the cooler and pipes (see illustration 1,3). 5 To remove the pipes but leave the cooler In place. unscrew the bolts securing the hose unions to the cooler. Unscrew the bolts 1 Oil cooior and distributors removal. Inspection and _ installation (XR’V750 models) Engine. clutch and transmission 2‘21 securing the pipe retaining plate to the oil distributor on the crankcase and remove the plate. noting how it llts (see Illustration 7.4a). Unscrew the pipe guide bolts. then carefully pull the plus ends out at the distributor and 0" the cooler and remove them noting now they lit (m illustration TAb), Discard the Ovrlngs as new ones must be used. Inspection 6 Check the cooler fins for mud. dlrt and insects. which may Impede the flow of air through the radiator. ll the fins are dirty. clean the cooler using water or low pressure compressed air directed through the fins erIn the inner side of the radiator. if the fins are bent or distolted. straighten them careluiiy with a screwdriver. It the air llow ls restricted by bent or damaged llrls over more than 20% Di the center's surface area. replace the cooler with a new one. Installation 7 installation is the reverse oi removal, noting the lullowing: I Always use new O—rlrlgs on the pipe unions and smear them with clean all. I Check the condition of the cooler mounting grommets and replace them ll they are damaged or deteriorated. I Tighten the cooler mounting bolts, plpe union and retaining plate bolts. and pipe guide bolts to the torque settings speollied at the beginning of the Chapter, I Fill the engine with all (see Chapter 1) Oil dlstribulor Removal n Drain the engine oil and remove the filter (see Chapter 1). 23 Remove the front sprocket cover (see Chapter 6). Unscrew the bolts securing the pipe retaining plate to the oil distributor on the crankcase and remove the plate. rioting how it ills (see illustration 7.4a). Unscrew the pipe guide baits. then carelully pull the pipe ends out of the olstrioutor (see Illustration 7.411) Discard the OrrlngS as new ones must no need. 24 Unscrew the distributor bolt and remove the distributor, noting how it tits. Discard the D ‘ , , ; s,¥:lji{c.lgutdhe’:— . . § . WW \ 1 Because of the eompiex nature of this job and the special tools and equipment required. most owners leave servicing of the valves. valve seals and valve guides to a prolessronal, 14.5a Make sure the compressor locates correctly on the valve . . . However. you can make an initial assessment at whether the valves are seating correctly, and rheretora sealing. by pouring a small amount or solvent into each or the valve parts. it the solvent leaks past any valve into the combustion chamber area the valve is not seating correctly and sealing. 2 Vuu can also remove the valves from the cylinder head. clean the components, check them for wear to assess the extent of the work needed. and. unless a valve service Is required. grind in the valves (see Section ml. The head Carl than be reexamblsd. 3 A dealer service department will remove the valves and springs. replace the valves and guides, I'BCUI the valve seats. check and replace the valve springs. spring retainers and collets (as necessary). replace the valve stem seals with new Ones and reassemble the valve components. ‘ After the valve service has been performed. the head will he in like-new condition. When the head is relumad. be sure to clear! It agaln very thoroughly before insteilation on the engine to remove any metal particles or abrasive grit that may still be present lrom the valve service operations. Use compressed air. ll available. to blow out all the holes and passages :4 cylinder head and valves ~ , $ 5 disassembly; inspection K 1, w and reassembly “Q I As mentioned in the previous section. valve overhaul should be left ta a Hanna dealer. However. dlsassembiy. cleaning and inspection at the valves and related components can be done (it the necessary special toois are available) by the home mechanic. This way no expense is incurred if the inspection reveals that overhaul is not required at this time. 2 Te disassemble the valve components without the risk of damaging them. a valve spring compressor is absolutely essential. Make sure it is sultable for motorcycle Work. Disassembly 3 Before proceeding. arrange to label and store the Valves along with their related H25664 14.3 Valve components 1 Col/sis 4 Outerspring 2 Spring 5 Springsear retainer 6 Stemseai a innerepn'ng 7 Valve e31: components in such a way that they can be returned to thelr original locations without getting mixed up (see l'lluntratinn). A good Way to do this is to attain a container which Is dlvlded into six compartments and label each compartment With the location at a valve, is. ten inmke valve. right intake valve or exhaust valve. It a container is not available. use labelled plastic bags (an egg carton also does very waiiii. ‘ Clean all traces of Old gasket materlal lrom the cylinder head. it a scraper Is used. take care not to scratch or gouge the sort aluminium. 3 Referrer ToolsandWorkshop Tips for details or gasket ,re/zrovalmethdds ‘ N _ 5 Compress the valve spring on the first valve with a spring compressor. making sure it is correctly located onto each end of the valve assembly [sea illustrations), On the underside ol the head make sure the plate on the compressor only contacts the valve and not the soft aluminium al the head m it the plate is too big lot the valve. use a spacer between them. Do not compress the springs any more than is absolutely necessary Remove the collets, using either needle-nose pliers. tweezers. a magnet or a screwdriver with a dab cl grease on it (see illustrationt. Carefully release the valve spring compressor and remove it. Remove the spring retainer. Engine, clutch and transmission 2-31 tr 2505' H.5d Remove any burrs (1) If the valve stem (2) won’t pull through the guide nuting which way up it iits (see illustration 14.28:). Remove the springs. noting that the cluser wound coils are at the bottom (see illustrations 14.288 and 14.3). Press down on the top at the valve stem and draw the valve out from the underside oi the head [see Illustration 14.27b). if the valve binds in the guide (won't pull through). push it back into the head and deburr the area around the collet groove with a Very fine tile or Whetstone (sea Illustration). 6 Once the valve has been removed and labelled. pull the valve stem oil seal off the top Olihe valve gulde and discard it (the old seals should never be reused) (see illustration). Now rcmnve the spring seat (see illustration). The seat is difllcult to get hold oi. so either use a small magnet or turn the head upside down and (in ii out, taking care not to lose it. 1 Repeat the procedure icr the remaining valves. Remember tu keep the parts for each valve together and in urder so they can be reinstalled in the same location. 3 Next. clean the cylinder head with solvent and dry it tliorciughly. Compressed air will speed the drying process and ensure thiai all holes and recessed areas are reached. 9 Clean all oi the valve springs. collets. retainers and spring seats With solvent and dry them thoroughly. Do the parts irom one valve at a time so they don't get mixed up. 10 Scrape all any deposits that may have formed on the valve. than use a motorised Wire brush to remove deposits tram the valve needs and stems. Again. make Sure the valves do not get mixed up. inspection Ii Inspect the head very careiuily for cracks and other damage. It cracks are found. a new head will be required. Check the camshaft bearing surfaces for wear and evidence of seizure. Check Ihe camshafls and holders iur wear as well isee Section 9). 12 Using a precision sirargnrAccrge and a iseiar gauge set to the warpaga limit listed in the specilicatiuns at the beginning or the Chapter. check the head gasket mating surrace for warpage. Refer to Touls and Workshop Tips in the Reference section for details or how to use the straight—edge. ‘3 Examine the valve seats in the 14.63 Pull the oil seal on Ihe top at the guide V . . combustion chamber. It they are pitted. cracked or burned. the head will require work beyond the scope oi the home mechanic. Measure the valve seat width and compare it to this chapter‘s Specifications (see illustration). If It exceeds the service limit, or if It varies around its Circumference. overhaul is required. 14 Measure the valve stem diameter (see illustration). Cican the valve guides USlng a gulde reamer to remove any carbon build-up. then measure the Inside diameters of the giJides (at both ends and In the centre at the guide] with a small burs gauge. then measure ths gauge with a mtcrumeter (see illustration). Measure the guides at the ends anci at the centre in determine if they are worn in a bell-mouth pattern (more wear at the ends). Subtract the stem diameter from the valve guide diameter to obtain the valve stem- to-gulde clearance. ii the siemdmguide clearance is greater than listed in this chapter's Specifications. renew whichever components are worn beyond their specification limits. If the Valve guide is within specifications. but is worn unevenly. it should be renewed. 15 Caretuily inspect each valve face. stain and Dolls! groove area for cracks. pits and burned spots (see illustration). is Rotate the valve and chuck icr any obvious lndlcaiion that It is bent. in which case it must be replaced with a new one Check the end oi the stern for pitting and excessive wear. The presence at any of the above conditions lndtcates the need [or valve servicing. The stem and can he grcund down. provided that the amount 0' stern above the bullet groove after grinding is sufficient. 17 Check the end of each valve spring for wear and pitting Measure the spring tree lengths and compare them to the . ‘ gal}? “.13 Measure the valve seat width with a ruler (or tor greater prccisinn Ase a Vernier caliper] 14443 Measure the Valve stem diameter with a mlcmmeter . . . , _ _ ‘ ’ ‘l 14.14b . . . then measure the guide bore using a cmaii hole gauge and micrometer 14.15 Check the valve face (N. stem (5) and calls! groove (C) tor signs of wear and damage 2-32 Engine, clutch and transmission 14.17: Measure the free lungth otthe valve springs Specifications (see illustration). ii any spring is shorter than specified it has sagged and must be replaced wlth a new one. Also place the spring upright on a llat surface and check it ior trend by placing a ruler againsi it. or altemalively lay il against a set square (see illustration). lt the bend in any spring is excessive. it must be replaced with a new one. 15 Check the spring seats. retainers and cpllets for obvious wear and cracks. Any questionable parts should not be reused. as extensive damage will occur In the event a! failure during engine operation. 19 ii the inspection Indicates that no overhaul work is required, the valve components can be reinstalled In the head. Reassembly 20 Unless a valve service has been periormed. before installing the valves in me 14,21: Apply the lapping compound very sparingly. in small debs, to the valve face only 14.1w: Check the valve springs icr Iquareness head they should be ground in (lapped) to ensure a positive seal between the valves and seats. This procedure requires coarse and fine valve grinding compound and a valve grinding tool [either hand-held or drill driven), It a grinding tool is not available. a piece at rubber or plastic hose can he slipped over the valve stem (after the valve has been installed in the guide) and used to turn the valve. 21 Apply a small amount 01 coarse grinding compound to the valve lace. and some molybdenum disulphide all (a 50/50 mixture or molybdenum disulphide grease and engine oil) to the valve stem, than slip the valve into the guide (see illustrations). Nate: Make sure each valve ls Installed in /Ls correct guide and be careful not to gar any grlndlng compound on the valve stem 2 Attach the grinding tool (or hose) to the valve and rotate the tool between the palms of your hands Use a back-andeiUrtn motion (as [4% The valve face and so“ should §1t1w a unitprm unbroken ring and the seat should he the specified width all the way round 1:25 Fit the spring seat. making sure it Is the correct way up though rubbing your hands together) rather than a circular motion (Le. so that the valve rotates alternately clookvvise and anti- clockwise rather than in one direction only) (see illustration). If a motorised tool is being used. take note 131 the cement drive speed furl! -— it your drill runs too fast and is not variable. use a hand tool Instead, Lift the valve oil the seat and turn it at regular Intervals to dletribulc the grinding compound properly. Continue the grinding procedure until the valve face and seat contact area is at uniform and correct width. and unbroken around the entire oircumtlarence (see illustration and 14.13). 23 Carefully remove the valve from the guide and wipe ol'i all lmcee of grinding compound. making sure none gets In the guide. Us! solvent to clean the valve and wipe the seal area thoroughly with a solvent soaked cloth. 24 Repeat the procedure with line valve grinding compound. then repeat the entire procedure for the remaining valves. 25 Working on one valve at a time. lay the spring seat in place in the cylinder head. making sure the shouldered side faces up [see illustration). 26 Fit 3 new valve stem seal onto the guide. using a stern seal fitting tool or an appropriate size deep socket to push the seal over the end 0' the valve guide until it is lelt to clip Into place (ale Illuntrationsl, Don't twist or cock the sealt or it will not seal properly against the valve stem. Also. don‘t remove it again out will be damaged. 27 Coat the valve stem with molybdenum disulphide oil [a 50/50 mixture of molybdenum 14.29; Rotate the valve grinding tool back and tort?! between the palms or your hands .- . . . _ ‘n itfia Fit i new valve stem seal . . . Engine, clutch and transmission 2-33 l4.2fih t . . using a deep socket or spaniel tool to press It squarer into place l‘llsulphide grease ancl engine all), then install It into its gmde. rotating It slowly to avoid damaging the seal (soc illustrations). Check that the valve moves up and down freely in lha guide. 28 Next. Install the Inner and outer spnngs. with the closer-wound calls Iacmg down into the cylinder head (see illustrations). Fit the rpring relalner, with its shouldered side tracing down so that it fits into the lap oi the springs in: Illustration). 29 Compress the valve spring with a sprlng compressor. making sure it Is correctly located onto each end at the valve assembly [see illustrations 14.5o and to). On the underside of the head make sure lhe plate on the compressor only contact: the valve and not the soft aluminium o! the head — If the plate ls too trig lor the valve. use a spacer between them. Do not compress the springs any more than ls necessary to slip the collate Into plaoe. Apply a small amount or grease lo the cellets to help hold them in place (see Illustration 14‘5c). Locate each collet in turn into the groove In the valve stem. then carefully release the compressor. making suit: me collets seat and luck as you tlo (see Illustration). Check that the collots are securely locked in the retainlng groove [see Illustration). 50 Support the cyllnder head on blocks so the valves can‘t contact the workbench top. then very gently tap the top or the valve stem with a Dress dnfl. Thls wlll help seat the collels ln the groove. It you don't have a brass drift. lit the shlm lhto its recess In the top of the 14.273 Lubricate the stem . . . valve spring retainer and use a sort-laced hammer and a piece of wood as an Interface Cluck forum-r, ”all"! ,of: thevnlves byphwlnq a mail amour: militant Into mil . of the valve carts. If that ”Wt Inks" past my valve Into mi minimum Member are: the valve flitting lop-rifle!» that valve should be repeated :1 Repeat the procedure for the remaining valves. Remember to keep the parts tor each valve together. and separate hunt the other valves. so they can be reinstalled in the same location. After the cylinder head and camshalls have been Installed. check the valve clearances ano adlust as requlreo (see Chapter V). 14.27h . . v and slide the valve Into it: correct. location 15 Cillnderhmls— _ § removal inspection 1 ‘_ andinstalletlon § Note: To remove the cylinder barrels the engine must be removed from the frame. anoval 1 Remove the ehglne from the frame (see Section 5). then remove the cylinder headlsl (see Section 12) end the cam chain gulde bladels) (see Section 11). 2 On XLSOUV models. it required. unscrew the bell securing the coolant Inlet pipe to the cylinder and remove lt. Discard the 04mg as a new one must be used 3 Oh XLBSOV and XRV750 models, release one or the cllps securing the coolant loin! collar that connects between the two 14.236 . . . then fit the spring retainer 14.29a Make sure both oollerts look into the groove as the camprassor is released .. . 1429b t . . and remain In place when It Is removed 2-34 Engine, clutch and transmission 15. 3 Remove one at the clips (anowedl and slide the [aim collar across cylinders (sec Illustration), Slide the collar either forwards or backwards [depending on which clip was removed) so that it is detached train the stub on one or other of the cylinders. it required, unscrew the bolt securing the coolant inlet union to the front cylinder and remove ll. Discard the O-ring as a new one must be used. 1 Let the cam chain drop down into Its tunnel. Lift the cylinder up on the studs. taking care not to allow the connecting rod to knock against the side at the crankcase once the piston Is tree (see illustration). If it is stuck. tap around its rolnt laces with a soft faced mallet to tree It from the crankcase, Don’t attempt to tree the cylinder by inserting a screwdriver between it and the crankcase e you‘ll damage the sealing surfaces. When the cylinder has been removed. stuff clean rags around the piston to prevent anything tailing into the crankcase 5 Note the location at the two dowels which will be either on the bottom or the cylinder or In the crankcase (see illustration 15.19). Remove them it they are loose. 6 On XLSSOV and XRV750 models. remove the coolant joint ooiler lrorn whichever barrel it is attached to. then remove the collar 0an from the stub on each Cylinderl Discard the O-rings as new ones must he used. 1 Remove the gasket and clean all traces of old gasket material from the cylinder and crankcase mating sunaces. It a scraper is used. take care not to scratch or gouge the soft aluminium. Don’t let any gasket material rail into the crankcase or the iiii passages 15.11: Usea bore gauge... 15 4 Lift the barrel up off the crankcase and remove It Inspection B Do not attempt to separate the liner from the cylinder. 9 Check the cylinder bore walls carefully for scratches and score marlfi. 10 Using a precision straight-edge and a reeier gauge set to the warpcge limit listed in the specifications at the beginning of the Chapter. Check the top mating surface of the cylinder barrel for warpage. Refer to Tools and Workshop Tips in the Reference section for details of hbw to use the straight-edge. ii warpcge is excessive the cylinder must be replaced with it new one. 11 Using telescoping gauges and a micrometer (see Tools and Workshop rips). check the dimenswns of each cylinder bore to assess the amount or wear. taper and ovality. Measure near the top (but below the level dime top piston ring at TDC). centre and bottom (but above the level Of the oil ring at BBC) 0' the bore. both parallel to and across the crankshaft axis (sec illustrations). Compare the results to the specifications at the beginning of the Chapter. ii the cylinders are worn. oval or tapered beyond the service limit they can be rebored. and an oversize (4- 0.25 or +050) set of pistons and rings are available lrorn Honda. Note that the person carrying out the rebors must be aware at the piston»to—hora clearance tor the oversize piston (see Specifications), 12 It the precision measuring tools are not available, take the cylinders to a Honda dealer or specialist motorcycle repair shop for assassmenl and advice. 13 If the cylinder bores are in good condition and the piston-to»bore clearance is within specifications (see Section 15). the bores should be honed (deglazcd). To perform this operation you will need the proper size flexible hone with fine stones. or a bottierbrush type hone. plenty of light oil or honing oil. some clean rags and an electric drill motor. 14 Hold the cylinder sideways lso that the bore is horizontal rather than vertical) In a Vice with soil laws or cushioned with wooden blocks, Mount the hone in the drill motor. compress the stories and insert the none into the core. Thoroughly lubricate the cylinder walls. then turn on the drill and move the none up and down in the bore at a pace which produces a iine cross~halch pattern on the cylinder wall with the lines intersecting at an angle or approximately 60“, Be sure to use plenty oi lubricant and do not take off any more material than is necessary to produce the desired effect. Do not withdraw the hone train the cylinder while it is still turning. Switch oft the drill and continue to move it up and down In the cylinder until it has stopped turning. then compress the stones and withdraw the hone. Wipe the oil from the cylinder and repeat the procedure on the other one. Remember. do not take 100 much material from the cylinder wall. 15 Wash the bores thoroughly with warm soapy water to remove all traces of the abrasive grit produced during the honing operation. Be sure to run a brush through the stud holes and flush them with running water. Aher rinsing. dry the cylinders ihcrcughly and apply a thin coat at light. rustrpreventative oil to all machined surfaces. 16 if you do not have the equipment or desire to perform the honing operation, take the cylinders to a Honda dealer or specialist motorcycle repair shop. Installation 17 On XLGSOV and XRWSD models. ill a new O-ring onto the coolant juint collar still: on each cylinder. then slide the collar as far as possible onto the stub of one at them. 15 Check that the mating surfaces at the cylinder and crankcase are free from all or pieces pt oid gasket. 15 If removed. lit the dowels either over the studs and Into the crankcase L‘lr into the barrel. and push them iirmiy home (sec illustrati iii. 'GEEE 15.11h . . . and measure attire points shown \ as" - - 15.19 install the two dowels (an-owed) either into the barrel or over the studs and into the crankcase Engine, clutch and transmission 2‘35 20 Remove the rage tram around the piston. taking care not to let the connecting rod tall against the rim of the crankcase, and lay the new base gasket in place, locating It over the dowels (ll they are in the crankcase) (see Illustration). Ths gasket can only fit one way. so It the holes do not line up properly the gasket is upside down. Never re-use the old gasket. 21 Space the piston rings gaps as described In Section 17. It required lit a piston ring clamp onto the piston to ease its entry into the bore es the cylinder is lowered. This is not essential as there is a good Isadrin. enabling the pistun rings to be hand-ted into the bore. Ir possible. have an assistant support the cylinder while this is done. 22 Lubricate the cylinder bore. piston and piston rings with clean engine oil. then lower the barrel down over the studs until the piston crown fits into the bore (see illustration]. 23 Gently push the cylinder dawn. making sure the piston enters the bare squarely and does not get cocked sideways. It you are doing this without a piston rmg clamp, careiuliy compress and teed each rin| into the bore as the cylinder ls lowered (see illustration). on When the piston is correctly installed in the core. press the cylinder down onto the base gasket. making sure the dowels locate, Hook the cam chain up the tunnel and secure It to prevent ll dropping back down (see Illustration). 2.5 On XLSUOV medals. if removed. lit a new O-ring onto the cwlant inlet pipe, then Iit it lrltD the cylinder and secure It with the bolt. 26 On XL550V and XHWSO models. slide the coolant loin! collar across and over the O-ring so that It is central an the stubs between the cylinders, then secure it in place with its clips (m illustration 15.3). It removed. fit a new mine to the coolant Inlet hose uniun and install the union onto the front at the ant cylinder. tightening its bolts securely. 27 Install the cam chain guide bladals) (see Section 11) and the cylinder headis) (see Section 12). ls Pistawls .. § removal,’ in inn *5 and:instalia on § Note: The pistons can be removed with the engine In the frame. Removal 1 Remove the cylinder barrel(e) lsee Section 15). Stuii clean rag into the crankcase aperturetc support the connecting rod and to prevent anything tailing in, such as the circiip. 2 Betcre removing the piston from the connecting rod. use a sharp scriber or felt marker pen to write the cylinder identity on the crown of each plston (or on the inside Ol the skin if the piston is dirty and going to he clawed). Each piston crown should already 15.23 . . . and teed the piston rings Into the horn be marked IN on the intake side of the cylinder. though the mark is likely to he invisible until the piston is cleaned (see i ustretion). 3 Carefully prise out the circlip on one side of 152 Carefully low” the barrel piste-t . . . 15.24 Hook the calm chain out of the tunnel the piston using ncedlenose pliers or a small ital-bladed screwdriver inserted Into the notch (see lllustratlan). Push the piston pin out from the other sidB I0 tree the piston frDrn the connecting red (sea illustrations), Remove 132 Note Ihe “IN" mark on the Distal! which ideas the Intake side 16.3!) Push the piston DID out hunt the OHIO! lid: . . . 1855a Prise the piston pin circlip out from on. side or the piston t: l» 16‘8c . . . then withdraw it and remove the piston 2-36 Engine, clutch and transmission ’“s 16,4 Note the marking on the top surface or the ring the other clrcllp and discard lhem as new ones must be used. When the piston has been removed, install its pin back into its barrel so that related parts do not get mixed up. Hill'l' In bailing watar then wring It out and wrap it around the pislan— this will expand the alloy piston 51.: oiently to release Its grip on the pin._ 1! the piston pln is‘ particularly stubborn, Extract it using a drawbnlt tool, but be curtain! to protect the plston's working surfaces. tra plston pill is a tight at In Inspismnbassesmkaray‘ Inspection 4 Using your thumbs or a piston ring removal and installation tool| carefully remove the rings truth the pistons (see illustrations t7.l1, 10. and 81:, b and sit Do not nick or gouge the pistons in the process. Careiuiiy note which way up each ring ills and in which groove as they must be installed in their original positions ii being rte—used. The upper surface of the top ring is marked wlti’i the letter Fl or N at one anal and the second (middle) ring is either marked RN or .t or is unmarked (see illustration), The top and middle rings can also be ldentiiied by their dliiereni profiles (see illustration 17.12} 5 Scraps all traces of carbon iron! the tops oi the pistons. A hand-held wire bmsii or a piece at iine emely cloth can be used once most or the deposits have been scraped away. Do not. under any circumstances. use a wire brush 16.10 Measure the piston ring-to-nroove clearance wim a teeter gauge mounted in a drlli motor to remove deposits from the pistons; the piston material IS soft and will be eroded away by the wire brush, 3 Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to remove any carbon deposits from the ring grooves. Ii e loot is not available. a piece broken off an old ring will do the lab. Be very careful to remove only the carbon deposits. Do not remove any metal and do not nick or gougelhe sides of the ring grooves. 1 Once the deposits have been removed. clean lhe pistons with solvent and dry them thoroughly. It the identification previously marked on lhs piston ls cleaned off. be sure to rE-mark it with the correct Identityi Make sure the oil return holes below the oil ring groove are Clear. a oareiully inspect each piston for cracks around lho skirt. at the pin bosses and at tho ring lands. Normal piston wear appears as even. vertical wear on the thrust suriaces of the piston and slight looseness or the top ring in its groove ii the skirt is scored or scuffed. the engine may have been suffering from overheating amt/or abnormal combustion. which caused excessively high operating temperalures. The oil pump should be checked thoroughly. Also check that the ctrclip grooves are not damaged. 9 A hole In the piston crown, an extreme to be sure. is an indication li’lai abnormal commustion (pro-ignition) was occurring. Elumsd areas at the Edge oi the piston crown are usually evidence at spark knock (detonation), It any or the above problems axlsli the causes must be corrected or the damage will occur again. 16.11 Measure the piston diameter with a ‘ micrometer 10 Measure the piston ringaimgmove i clearance by laying each piston ring in its groove and slipping a feeler gauge in oaslnle ll (see Illustration), Make sure you have the correct ring for the groove (see Step 5). Check the clearance at three or [our locations around the groove. Ir the clearance is greater than specified. renew both the piston and rings as a set. li new rings are being used. measure the clearance USirIg the new rings. ll the clearance ls greater than that specified. the piston is Worn and must be replaced with a new one. 11 Check the pistonstmbore clearance by measuring the bore (see Section 15) and the piston diametert Make sure each piston is matched to its correct cylinder. Measure the piston "LU mrn (XLSOUV and XRWSD models] Dr ‘2 mm (XLSSOV models) up from the bottom of the skirt and at 90" to the piston pin axis (see illustration), Subtract the piston diameter lrom ihe here diameter to obtain the clearance. ll ii is greater than the specified figure‘ and it not already done, check the cylinder ior wear (see Section 15). ii the cylinder is good but the piston is worn. replace it With a new one. If the cylinder Is worn It can he reilnret‘ll and then oversize pistons and rings. available from Honda. can be lined. i2 Apply clean engine oil to the piston pin. Insert it into the piston and check ior any rreeplay between the two (see illustration). Measure the pin extemal diameter and the pin bore in the piston ism? illustrations) Calculate the dltierence to obtain the piston pin-to-piston pin bore clearance, Compare 15323 Slip the pin into the piston and check for freeway between them 16.12b Measure the external diameter of the pin . .. and the internal diameter or the bore in the piston . . A 1612!: Engine. clutch and transmission 2-37 16.133 Prise out the all let the result to the specmcatiohs at the heginnlng or the Chapter. lr the clearance is greater than speeltied. replace the components that are worn beyond their specified Ilmits. it not already done (see Section 23). repeat the measurements between the pin and the connecting rod smallrend (see illustration 23.6). 13 Prise the all jets out at the crankcase using a small screwdrivsrr taking great care not to damage them or drop them Into the crankcase — make sure your rep covers the hole completely (see Illustration). Remove the Orrlngs and discard thorn (see illustration). Clean the lets with solvent and blow them through with compressed air If available. i=it new O-rlngs and press the jets hack into the crankcase (see illustration). Installation 1‘ Inspect and install the piston rings (see section in. i5 Lubricate the piston oin, the piston pin bore and the connecting rod smallsend bare with molybdenum disulphide all (a 50/50 mixture at molybdenum disulphide grease and clean engine oil). 16 When installing the pistons onto the connecting rods, make sure the W mark en "la piston crown laces the intake side Ol the cylinder [see illustration 16.2) 11 Install a new circlip In one side at the plsiclrl (do not reuse old olrclips). Line up the piston on its correct connecting rod (see Illustration 18:39), and insert the piston Din lrom the other side (no Illustration). Secure the pin with the other new clrclip [see Illustration). When installing the circllps, compress them only just enough to lit them in the piston. and make sure they are properly seated in their grooves with the open and away item the removal notch. (13 Install the Cylinder ban’eKs) (see Section 15). t i it is good practlce to renew the piston rings when an original is being overhauled, Before installing the new ringsr check the end gaps l 11 Piston rings - H inspection and installation a , I6.17a Slide the pin through the piston and connecting rod . . . with the rings installed in the We, as follows. 2 Lay out the pistons and the new ring sets so the rings will be matched with the same piston and bare during the and gap measure- ment procedure and engine assembly 3 To measure the installed ring end gapi insert the top ring into the top oi the bore and square it up with lhs bore walls by pushing it In with the top ofthe piston (sue illustration). The ring should be about 20 mm below the top edge at the bore. Slip a leeier gauge between the ends or the ring and compare the measiirernont to the specilicetions at the beginning ol the Chapter (one tlllimtion). 4 If the gap is larger or smaller than specified. double check to make sure that you have the correct rings before proceeding. 5 Excess end gap is not critical unless it exceeds the service limit. Again, double check to make sure you have the oorreol rings 11 3a Fit the ring into the bor- and square it up with ma plsum 16.17b . . . Ind secure It with tho clrcllp. locating the open end away from the notch In the piston '61 your engine and check that the bore is not worn (see Section 15) 8 Repeat the procedure tor each ring that Wlll be installed in the bore. Remember to keep the rings pistons and bores matched tip. 7 Once the ring and gaps have been checked the rings can be Installed on the pistons (m Illustration 17.12). 3 install the all control ring (lowest on the piston) first. it is composed of three separate components. namely the expander and the upper and lower side rails. Stlp the expander into the groove. making sure the ends don‘t overlap. than install the lower side rail (see Illustratlohsll Do not use a piston rlrlg installation tool on the side rails as they may be damaged. Instead. place one and ot the side rail Into the groove between the expander and the ring land. Hold ii rirrnly in place and slide a finger around the piston while pushing 17.3b Measuring piston ring and gap 2038 Engine, clutch and transmission 17.83 install the oil ring expander in its groove. , . the rail into the grooval Next, install the upper side rail in the same manner (see illus'lrallfll'llr Check thal the ends of the expander have not overlapped. 9 After the three oil ring components have been insiallsd. Check to make sure that both the upper and lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the ring gmove. 10 The upper surlace oi the top ring is marked with Ihe letter R or N at one end. and the second (middle) ring ls either marked RN or -, or is unmarked (see illustration 16.4). The top and middle rings can aiso be identllisd by their different profiles (see illusmdon 179124 install the second (middle) ring next. Make sure that the identification letter near the and gap is facing up, or ii the ring is unmarked make sure the wider edge is at the bottom. as shown in the illustration of the piollle (see illustration i7.12ii Fit the ring into the middle groove in the piston [see 17,8b r , . Ihen III the lower side rail . t . illustrationlr Do not expand the ring any more than Is necessary to slide it into place, To avoid breaking the ring. use a piston ring installation tuoi. av altamatively a feels! gauge blade can be used as shown. 11 Finally. install the top ring in the same manner into the top groove in the piston (see illuflmtinn), Make sure the identification letter near the end gap is facing up. 12 Once the rings are correctly installed, check they move freely Without snagging and stagger their and gaps as shown (sea illustration). is Clutoh- ‘ " f : removal. inspectig and~insiallation- \ , Note: The Clutch can be removed With the engine in the frame. if the engine has already 1111 r . a then fit the fun ring 17.12 Arrange the ring and gaps like this i Tap compression ring 2 Compression ring marking {see text) 3 Sacnnd compression ring 4 Oil ring complete 5 Expander ring 6 Side rails 17.86 . . . and Iha upper sida rall been remnved, ignore the preliminary steps which don 't app/y. Removal i Drain the engine on (see Chapter i l. 2 Remove the exhaust system (see Chap- ter 4), 3 On XLBOUV—H to K [1987 to 1989) models. unscrew the external oil pipe boil lrom the clutch covert and the pipe holder bolt (one oi the cover bolts secures it). Discard the Seallng washers as new ones must be used. A Working in a crisscross pattern siacken the clutch saver boils. noting the clutch cable holder secured by one oi the bolts (sea Illustration and 15.35c). Fully unscrew the cable holder bait lirsl and detach the cable end from the lever on the crankcase cave! (su Illustration 19.1clv Unscrew the remaining bolts and in the cover away irorn the engine. being prepared to catch any residual oil Note the release rad In the cover and remove it for safekeeping it required [see inustration 15.34). 5 Remove the gasket and discard it. Note the positions of the twi: locating dowels lifted to the crankcase and remove them for sale~ keeping ii they are loose (see illustration 18‘35a). On XLGDDVvH. J and K (1987 to 1959] models, remove the all critical noting which way round it NS, and discard its O-I‘ing as a new one must he used. 6 Working in a crisscross pattern, gradually slacken the clutch release plata bolts until spring pressure is released. then remove the bolls. plate and springs (see illustrations) 15.4 Clinch cover bolts (arrowedlt Not the location 0' the cable brickal (A) Engine, clutch and transmission 2-39 7 Ultsiaks the clutch nut irom the notch in the shaft (See IllusIratlani To remove the clutch nut the transmisslon Input shaft must be locked. This can be done in several wayse if the engine is In the heme, engage 5th gear and have an assistant hold the rear brake on hard with the rear lyre in firm contact with the graund. Alternatively. the Honda service tool (available (mm a dealer) can be used to 510p \he Clutch centre Vrnm tumlng whiis‘ (he nul is siackened. II the engins has been removed from the frame (and lha Honda tool is not Avaiiable), a hoidlng tool that bolts onto the rear sprocket (which can then he slipped onto its output shaft) can be easily made irorn two strips ol steel bolted together (see Tool Tip). With the shaft lucked. unscrew the clutch nut tut: Unscrew the bolts (arrowooi and mmnve the plate and springs 15.6a Clutch 3558th 1 Release rod 6 Clutch nut 11 Anti-[udder spn'ng 2 Release plate bolts 7 Washer 12 Plain plates 3 Helease bearing 8 Clutch centre 13 Friction plates 7 4 Release plate 9 Friction plate ~ type B type A 5 Springs 10 Spring seat i4 Prwsure plate anti remove the washerls) _ XL600V~V to x and XLGsUV models have a spring washer ono a plain washer. all other models have a plain washer only (see illustration). Discard the rim as a new one most its used. Whilst the shaft is locked! and it you inteno removing it. also slacken the oil pump driven sprocket oolt (see iiiustration 18,1 2a). ml:- hildlng'faui can mllyf L , using M ripcigf 5W Mad as mm. and with upland: drilled to: scopibcltamorcanbethmuoai a‘ the-front sprocket. firmed e ibcknut up" each hon— mass can then be Hammad ism? the tool, to seeure the bulls“ ’ alter they nevebeen .throedod into the ; smack. Ilse an old spmqket If you ("MW-I « 15 Thrust washer 16 Clutch nousmg 17 all pump drive sprocket ra Clutch housing guide . vthen unscrew it as described In the text 13.1!) . 2-40 Engine, clutch and transmission 18.8 Remove the clutch centre and plates as an assembly 8 Grasp the clutch canoe with the complete set of clutch plates and the pressure plate and remove them as a pack (see illustration). Unless the plates are baing replaced with new ones. kaap them assembled in thelr original order on the clutch centre a positioning it upslda down will prevent the plates slipping oft. Otherwise. remove the pressure plate tram the back of the clutch centre. then remove the lriction and plain plates, noting how they lit. Finally remove the anti~ludosr spring and spring seat. Note that on XL models, there are two types or motion plate. idantliied as A and B [see illustration 18.53). Yhe outermost (type B) plate has a slightly larger internal diameter allowing it to lit over the anti-luauar spring and 18.10 Slide the clutch housing off the shaft spring seat. and its tangs fit into the shallow slots in the clutch housing. Take CBI’B not to mix them up. On XRV models all the friction plates are the same. 9 Remove the virus! washer from the shall [see illustration 18.28). 10 on XL models. slide me clutch housing on the shaft. noting that you may have to prevent the guide in the centre of [ha housing lrorn sliding with it by pressing on its rim using a very small screwdriver (see illustration). IV the guide slides with the housing. it brings the oil pump drive chain with it which could damage the chain. 11 On XRWSO models. to remove the clutch housing it is necessary to align the primary drive sub-gear team with the main gear teeth. To do this. first obtaln a 5 mm ball or rod 10 serve as a locking pin once the teeth are aligned. Locate a suitable screwdriver between the teeth and twist it to align them. Jgn 16.11 Align the gear teeth and insert a 5 mm ball In the holes to lock that” 1&123 Di! pump driven sprocket bolt (snowed) then insert the bolt Dr rod through the holes In the gears (m illustration). Slide the clutch housing Ofl the Shah ($59 illustration 18.10) Kosp the belt or pin located in the primary drive gear until the housing has been installed. 12 if required. unscrew the oil pump driven sprocket bolt and remove the driven sprocket the chain and the drive sprocket (see illustration and 1&2“, h and a). If the bull wasn't slackensd eariiEr [see Step 7). lock the sprocket by locating a rod between the one oi the holes and the crankcase as shown to prevent it from turning (see illustration). 0n XL models. note the ‘IN' mark an the hack oi the oil pump orivon sprocket which must iaoe inwards: on XRV models note the 'OUT mark an the back of the sprocket which must lace outwards. 13 Remove the clutch housing guide lrolil the input shaft (see illustration 18.24). 0n XL models note how the tabs on the oil pump drive sprocket locate in the slots in the back of the clutch housing. On XRV models. note how the pins on the all pump drive sprocket locate in the holes in the back of the clutch housing, Inspection 14 After an extended period or sarvica the clutch friction plates will wear and promote clulch sllp. Measure the thickness Di each friction plate using a Vernier caliper is" illustration). ll any plate has worn to Hi beyond the service limit given in the Specllicatlcns at the beginning of the Chapter. the friction plates must be replaced as a set. Also, if any at the plates smell burnt or are glazed. they must be replacsd as a set 15 The plain plates should not show any signs of excess heating (blulng). Check lor warpage using a flat surlaco and facial gauges [see Illustrationll ll any plate exceeds the maximum amount of warpaga. or shows signs at blulng. all plain plates must he renewed as a set. 16 Measure lhe lrea length or each clutch spring using a Vernier caliper (sac Illustration 14.173). If any spring Is below the service Ilmll specified, renew all the springs as a set. Aisa check the antiriudder spring and spring seal for damage or distortion and replace than with new ones ll necessary. Use a rod through tho sprocket and lucatad against the crankcase to prevent tho sprocket tumlng 18.14 Measure the thickness 01 the Friction plates 18.15 cnsclr tho plain plates for warpago Engine. clutch and transmission 2-41 18.20 Check the release plate and hearing as described I? Inspect the clutch assembly for burrs and indentations on the edges of the protruding labs Oi the friction plates End/Gr slots in the edge of the housing with which they engage. Similarly check lor wear between the Inner tongues or the plain plates and the slots in the clutch centre. Wear at this nature will cause clutch drag and slow disengagement during gIIr changes as the plates will snag when the pressure Dials is lifted. With care a small eirlwnt of wear can be corrected by dressing wth ix fine iile, but it this is excessive the worn cvirloonents should be renewed. it Using a Vernier caliper. measure the diameter at the output shah where the clutch huusing guide rite over it. Also measure the internal and external diameter at the housing guide and lhe internal diameter of the oil pump drive sprocket, and on new models lhE internal diameter oi the clutch housing where it tits over the guide. Compare the measurements to the Spectiicatlons at the heginning or the chapter and replace any components that are worn beyond their service limit, Also check all the above moments for signs of damage or scoring, and reoiace ll necessary. 10 On XFlV750 models inspect the needle miter bearing in the clutch housing. if there are any signs or wear, pitting or other damage it must be renewed. Tl'lB bearing is a press lit in the housing ~ refer ID Tools and Workshop lips In the Reference Section tor details on hearing removal and installation When removing the old nearing. note carefully at Mia! depth it sits in the centre and install the new bearing so that it sits in exactly the same piece. 20 Check the pressure piele and thrust washer lor signs at roughness. wear or damage. and replace any parts as necessary. check the clutch release plate tar signs or damage. Check that the bearing outer race is i: wud fit In the Centre at the plate. and that the inner race rotates freely without any rough splits is-a Illustration). Renew the hearing it necessary. 21 Remove the release rod from the clutch «war (ii not already done) (see illustration 15.34). Check the release mechanism for a smooth action if the notion is still or rough, withdraw the shaft. noting the washer and 16.213 Withdraw the shaft . , l 15.21» . . . and check the sell (A) and hearings (B) 13.21c Make sure the washer and spring are correctly poalrlanecl . . . how the return spring ends locate. then clean and check the oil seal and the two needle hearings in the cover. replacing them with new ones it necessary (see illustrations). The seal can be renewed by ieverlng the old one out with a screwdriver and pressing the new one In The needle bearings have to be drifted out — refer to Tools and Wnrkshop 77;): in the Reference Section for further lnldrmation. Lubricate the bearings and shaft oeiore installing the shaft. Make sure the washer is on the shaft and the return spring ends locate oorrectiy (sec illustrations). 22 Check the teeth of the primary driven gear on the back at the clutch housing and the corresponding teeth 01 the primary drive gear on the crankshaft. Ftenaw the clutch housing and/or primary drive gear ii worn or chipped teeth are discovered (refer to Section 2i for the pnmery drive gean. 15.24 slid. the clutch housing guide onto the shaft . . . . and the spring ends locate correctly 13.2111 . . Installation Note: if the primary drive year has been removed and not yet installed, do so before installing the clutch (see Section 21). 23 Remove all traces of old gasket lrdrrl the crankcase and clutch cover surlaces. 24 Smear the outside of the clutch hdusing guide with molybdenum disulphide oil [50% molybdenum grease and 50% engine oil), then slide the guide onto the Input shaft (see illustration). 25 Slide the oil pump drive sprocket onto the shalt. making sure the tabs or pins (according to model) tece out, and slip the chain around the sprocket (see illustrations), Engage the driven sprocket with the chain. On XL modeis making sure the 'IN' mark laces inwards and on XRV models making sure lhe “OUT‘ mark laces outwards, then locate the sprocket on the oil pump. aligning the flats between . . then m the drive sprocket with Its tens or plns facing out ‘8258 . 2-42 Engine, clutch and transmission 19 25h Fit the chain around the sprocket” round, 13.x. Apply a locking cempound to the ban. . . sprocket and shaft (see illustrations). Apply a suitable non-permananl thread locking compound to ihe sprocket bolt [see IIIus‘rallon). Fi! the DUI! wilh its washer and figmen ii in the tarque setting specified at the beginning of ma chapter. locating a rod 18.213 The lab: or pins on me smacks! mum engage with me slols or holes on me back 0' the clutch housing 13.25! i . . and tighten h to the specified mrque, locking the sprocket as shown through one of the halas and against the crankcase lo preventihe sprocket luming (see illus‘raflons). Alternatively. lighten We bali after lightening ins dutch nut (see Step 32). 26 On XRV models. make sure 1he ball or rod is still located in ms pdrnary drive: gear so that 1827!) Slide he housing unit: the guide, making sure 1" [names as described 1325!! . r r and onto file sham alignlng the "BB the subsgear and main gear teeth are siigneri If “is boil or rod was removed. fit it as dsscriberi in Step iii 27 Slide the clutch housing unto the housing guide on the input snail. making sure the rats or pins on the ail pimp drive sprocket engage wiiii the siois or holes In the rear er! the musing [Iurri the sprucket with your finger whiis pressing an the housing mm the iabypins are ten to locate ‘ and the housing moves in a bit further. than double—amok by making sure he sprocket can't turn independeniiy oiths housing), and meteetn of me primary driven gear engage thn those of the primary drive gear (999 iiiusu-aiionsr 28 Slide the lnrusl Washer ontu the shall (see llhlstraflon). 29 Place the clutch csmre iacs down on me bench. Fii the antrjudder spring seat onto the clutch centre, foliowed by me anil—luddar spring; making sure the outer rim is raised 0" the spring Basil as shown (see iiiusvmions) 1&293 FR the swing sea! . .. 18.2% . . . and me spring . . A making sure it is the correct way round $8290 r .. Engine. clutch and transmission 2-43 15,303 Locate the first friction plat: over the ant udder spring , . V 1830b r . . than lit alternate plain plates . . . timed . . . aligning them as shown an Coat each clutch plale with Engine all. then build up the plates in the housing. starting with s lrlctlon plate (the type a plate will the wider ID on XL models], than a plain plate. then alternating irlctlon plates (type A 183“: . . r locating the outer plat: ifltn the shallow slols tau 1832b . . and where fitted the spring washer l . . tame Fitthe pressure plate intu the centre, making sure itlocates correctly on XL models) and plain plates until all are lnstalled (sec Illustrations). Align the friction plate mbs as shown to make inslallation IMO the clutch housing easier — the outermost friction plate tabs locate into the shallow slots 1&313 Slide the assembly onto the shaft . . . in the housing. H! the pressure plate into the clutch centre. making sure it seats correctly with Its pmtrusions locating in the slots in the oeniire (see illustration). 31 Slide the clutch centre assembly unto the input shaft splines, leeding the lrictlon plate tabs into the slots as you do, locating the outermost plate tabs IMO the shallow Slots In the housing as Shawn (see illustrations). 32 Fit the plaln washer. and on XLGUDV-V tn x and XL650V models the spring washer with the ‘OUTSlDE' mark lacing out. then lit a new clutch nut (see Illustrations]. Using the method employed on removal to lock the Input shalt (see Step 7). tighten the nut to the torque setting specified at the beginning at the Chapter (see Illustration) ll you are using the home-made holding tool with the front sprocket, tilt the engine lorward as shown so lhal lne tool rests against the work surface and does not came up sgslnsi the 18,32c t . . the" fit the clutch nut . . 1B.32d t t . and tighten it to the specified torque 2-44 Engine, clutch and transmission notch 18.34 Allyn the on.“ and Install m3 release rod geerchange shalt. Stake the rim ol the not into the indent ln me and at the Input shaft using a sulteble punch (see Illustration), Whllst the clutch is locked, and if not already done (see Step 25). also tlohten the all pump drlven sprocket bolt to the specified torque setting. having first applled a suitable non-permanent thread locking compound to its threads. Name: Check that the clutch centre rotates freely after tightening the clutch nut. 35 Install the clutch sprlnus. release plate and release plate bolts and ttghten them evenly in a cries-cross sequence to the spscltled torque setting (nee illustrations), 34 It removed. lit the release rod Into the clutch cover, ellgnlng the shah so that the red me correctly (see llmmatlonlt 35 It removed. insert the dowels In the crankcase, then m the new gasket. locating it over the dowels (see illustration). XLSDDV—H to K (1957 to 1959) medals, "t a W O’HHQ 13.351: clutch cable holder 18.353 Locate the new gasket onto the dowels (arrow-ad) . . . onto the oil orllioet then install the orlflce into the crankcase with its smaller diameter hole faclng out. lnetell the crankcase cover. making sure it locates correctly over the dowels (see lllusttatlon). Install all the clutch cover bolts except the one that also secures the clutch cable holder. and on XLSODV—H to K (1937 to 1939) models the external on pipe holder. and tighten them linger-tight, Connect the clutch cable and to the release am (See illustration 19.11:). then locate the holder on the Dover and secure It wlth its bolt (see Illustration). Tighten the cover bolls evenly In a cr|ss-cmss sequence to the specltled torque setting. 39 On XLsDoV-H to K (1987 to 1935) models, install the external oil pipe lower boll. using new sesllng washers. and the plpe holder bolt. and tlghten them to the specified torque settings. 37 Install the exhaust system (see Chapter 4). as Rallll the engine with all (see Chapter 1). 19.1- slacken the locknuts (mowed) . . . 1833b . and III! release plate. than tighten the bolls as described in the text 1535!: . . . than Install the cover 39 Check the clutch ieverheepiey and adlusl lf necessary (see Chapter 1). .19 ctutchaahle- f , § removal andinetallation ’ ’ § Caution: Take care not to burn your hands on "to exhaust If the engine is hot. Removal 1 Fully slackert the cable adjuster |uckrlut$ from the cable holder mounted to the right- hand side crankcase cover (see illustration). Access to it can he Improved by removing either the belly—pan, the fairan slde panel rxmoov end XRWSD) or the lalring meson, though thls Is not essential Gust be careful not to let the spanner slip). Release the adjuster lrom the holder. notlng new It flts and 19.1b ... then ellp the cable out our» holder Engine, clutch and transmission 2-45 19.19 . . . and freethe and mm the release arm 18.81: .. .anu remove the handguard disconnect the cable and from the Clutch release mechanism lever (see illustrations). 2 ll necessary, unscrew the bolt securing the cable halder to the crankcase and remove the bracket [see illustration 18.35:), CI Unscrew the bait and remove the Collar liaril the hand guard (see illustmtinn). Counter-hold the scrawhead and man the nut nn ils bottom (see illustration). Remove the mndguard (sue Illustration). I Pull back the rubber cover lrom me clutch adjuster at the handlebar and of the cable [see Illustration). Fully slacken the lockrlng, the" screw the adjuster lully In. This resets It lathe beginning at its adjustment span. 5 Align lhe sluts in the adjuster and locliwhsel with that in the lever bracket. then pull the outer cable and from the socket in lhe ndlllstar and release the inner cable lrum the lever (see illustrations). 6 Take note ol the exact muting cl the cable tests“. and detach its end from the lever 19.4 Pull hacktha rubber cover. than slacken me lockring and thread the auiustar rally In and any guides that hold il , Incorrect installation Could result in poor steering mavement Carefully withdraw the cable , if it gets stuck do not be tempted to pull it out using lama as you will only damage something. and o! the new table to ll» upper and £er old cable; ’ - slur/[y pull the influx and a! the ‘ d , naupomguldlna meabltrdm; , Inter posllran. Uslngllhlt mall-ad will- chum; me cabl- ls rattled oomctly lnstallafion 1 Installation is the reverse of removal. Apply grease to the cable ends. Make sure the mhls is ccrrectly routed. Adjust the clutch cable (see Chapter 1), 20.2a Note the alignment unite punch mark, then unscrew the bolt and remain the lever 19.3h ,..andthanut... 19.5a with the SIMS in the adjuster and lackwheel aligned. slip the cable out . . . 20 Gearchangs mechanism — _ removal inspection and lnslallatlcn K ‘\ Note: The gearchange mechanism can be removed with the engine In the frame If the engine has already been removed, i'grinre the preliminary steps Rsrnnval 1 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). 2 Unscrew the gearchange lavar pinch bolt and slide the lever Off the shalt. noting the alignment of the punch mark on the shaft and with either the slit in the clamp or the punch mark on the lever. dependan on your model (see Illustration). unscrew the bolts securing the from sprocket cover and remuvs it. and on XLSSUV and XRV750 models the drive chain gulde plate, noting how it tits lseelilusuratloni. 20.2h Sprocket never bolls (arrawed) 2-46 Engine, clutch and transmission zoAc Unscrew the remaining halls and remove the retainer plate Wrap a slngle layer or thin Insulatlng tape around the gsarchsnge shaft splines lo protect the oil seal lips as the shaft IS removed. 3 Remove the clutch and the on pump drive sprocket, chain and driven sprocket (see Section 19). 4 Unscrew the bolt securing the all pipe (us Illustration). Carefully pull the all pipe out ol Its sockets. noting that an O-ring retains it at the bottom (see Illustration). Discard the O—ring as a new one must be used. Unscrew the remalnlng halts securing the transmission shalt bearing retainer plate and remove the plate, noting haw It llrs [see Illustration) 5 Note how the gaarcharlge selector arm 20.8 Nate how the roller [A] and the spring ends (B) locate, then unscrew tho bolt (5) and val-now the arm. Cam plats soil (at claw locatas onto the pins in the selector drum cam plats. and how the gsarcnange shaft cantrallsing soring ands locate (sea Illustration 20.139). Lift the selector arm claw off the selector drum and withdraw the gearchange shaft item the englne (see Illustration). 6 Note how the stopper arm spring ends locate and how the roller on the arm locates in the neutral detent on the selector dmm cam, then unscrew the stopper arm bolt and remove the washer. the arm, the sprlng and the collar. noting how they lit (see Illusuafion). 7 it necessary. unscrew the bolt securing me 20,83 Check the seteclor arm assembly . . . anal: . . . and the stopper arm assembty as described cam plate to the selector drum and remove ll. noting that there ls a locating dowel that lit: between them , it is advisable l0 Dlaca some rag In the bottom OI the crankcase to catch the dowel should it drop out (see illustration 20.6). Otherwise remove the dowel tar ssiekesplng if it ls loose. Also note the pins between the cam and the base plate and remove them it they are loose. Inspection 3 Inspect the selector arm and the stopper arm return springs and the shaft eemrallslng spring (see llluslralionsi, ll they are latlgued. worn or damaged they must be replaced wtttl new ones. Also check that the centrallslng spring locating pin ln ins crankcue is securely tightened. If it is loose, remove it and apply a nan-permanent thread locklng compound to its threads, than tighten it securely. 3 Check the gsarchange shalt to: straightness and damage to the splines. It the shaft is bent you can attempt lo stralghtsn lt. but If the splines are damaged the shat! must be replaced with a new one. Alsu check the sandman at the shaft ail seal in the left-hand Side of the crankcase. If i! is damaged, deteriorated or shaws signs of leakage it must be replaced with a new one. Where fitted, Engine. clutch and transmission 2-47 unscrew the ooltls) securing the seal retainer plate and remove the plate. notlng how It Vlts [lee illustration 23.3), Lever out the old seal With a screwdriver (see Illustration), Press or drive Ihe new 552! squarely into place. with its tip lacing inward. using a seal driver or suitable socket (538 llluslraliunlr Fit the retainer plate where removed and tighten its trellis) securely to inspect the selector arm claw and the pins. and Ina stopper arrrl roller and the cam detents. ll they are worn or damaged they must be replaced with new ones. Installation 11 ll removed. lit the pins into the cam base plate and push them through to the cam. Fit the locating dowel into the end of the selector dlum. install the cam plats. making sure the llele in the back Ol the base plate locates correctly on the dcwai. Apply a suitable three/d locking compound to the threads of the cam bolt and tighten ll to the torque setting specified at the beginning at the Chapter, i2 Fit ihe stcpper arm bolt with Its washer through the stopper arm, the return spring and the collar, then apply a threadlock to the threads of the bolt (see Illustration 20.8b). Install the assembly onto the crankcase. making sure the spring ends locate correctly over the stopper arm and against the crankcase. and partially tighten the bolt (see Illustration). Lin the stopper arm using a screwdriver against the crankcase as a lever or a pal! OI pliers. than fully tighten the bolt, mating the taller onto the neulral detent in the cam as they become aligned (see 20.98 Lever out the old seal t . . illustration). Tighten the bolt to the specified torque sefling. Afterwards make sure the arm Is tree to move and is returned try the pressure cl the spring, 13 Slide the gearchenge Shaft assembly into its hole in the englne. lifting the selector arm claw Into position on the selector drum pins (see Illustrations]. Ensure the centralislng spring ends are correctly located on each side of the plris on the shaft and the crankcase (see illustration). 14 Install the transmission shaft bearing retainer plate and secure it Wlth the top bolts (so: llluah'at’lon 203:), Flt a new O-rlng onto the on pipe (see illustraticnlr Locate the pipe in its sockets, pressing the bottom in until the O-rlrlg ls lelt to locate [see illustration 20.4hlt Secure the pipe with the retainer plate bottom bolt (see Illustration 20.48). 15 On XL650V and XHV75O models fit the drive chain guide plate. Install the Front 20. 9h . . . and press or arm the new one into place sprocket cover and lighten its bolts (see Illustration 20.2w, Slide the gearchange lover onto the shalt. aligning the punch mark on the shaft and with that on the lever where there Is one. or with the all n the clamp If not (see Illustration 20.23). Tighten the pinch bolt and check that the gearchange mechanism works correctly. 16 Install oil pump drive chain and sprockets and the clutch (see Section 18). 11 Replenish the engine with all (see Chap, ter 1). Note: On XL models, the timing row! is mounted on the right-hand and of the crankshaft along with the plimary drive gear. 20.12: Locate the stopper en'n assembly on the crankcase . . . 20,13b. .and locate the arm onto the drum 20.th . . . then position the arm on the cam and fight”! the hon 20.13: Sllda the shaft Inm the crankcase r . t 20.13:: The installed assembly should be as shown 20.14 Fit 5 new O-rlng onto the oil pipe 2048 Engine, clutch and transmission ~.~ ‘ ‘ L - ft 21.5 slide the primacy drive gear on the shaft On xnv models. the ignition timing triggers are incorporated in the alternator rotor, so Ignore references to the rotor when removing the primary drive gear. Removal 1 Remove the Clutch (see Section 18). 2 On XL models. remove the Ignition pulse generator oailts) (see Chapter 5). a To unscrew the primary drive gear boil the crankshaft must be prevented irorn turning, To do ails. either unscrew the crankshaft and can train the alternator cover (see Illustration 9.23) and counter-halo the crankshait using a socket on the alternator rotor bolt (there Is no danger oi the bolt coming undone as it has a left-hand thread. and no danger It it being overtightened as it has a higher torque setting than the primary drive gear bolt). or alternatively obtain the gearajarnming toot (part NO. 07724-0010100}. than refit the clutch and on XL models the tim g rotor described .. v 21.7 Slide the primary drive gear onto the housing and locate the tool between the primary drive and driven gears at the top. ‘ With the crankshaft lockedL unscrew the primary drive gear bolt and remove the Washer (see Illustrations) On XL models remove the timing rotor. noting how it lite (see Illustration). 5 Slide the primary drive gear oil the end at the crankshaft. rioting which way round it fits (see Illustration). inspection 6 Check the teeth oi the primary drive gear and the corresponding teeth at the primary driven gear on the back at the clutch housing. Renew the clutch housing and/or primary drive gear li worn or chipped teeth are discovered. installation 7 Slide the orirnary drive gear onto the 21,9 Tlghton the bolt to the specified torque “We: is L 5. MAC . . . and an XL modols remove the timing rotor crankshaft. aligning the wide splines. and making sure on Xi. models the ‘OUT' marK on the gear faces outwards. and on XRV models the thinner sub-gear is on the outside (ace illustration). 3 0n XL models install the tlmlng rotor, aligning the wide splines (sea illustration). 9 install the bolt with its washer and tighten it fingertlgrit (see Illustration 21.44:). Lock the crankshaft using the same method as on removal (sea Step 3). Wltl‘i the crankshati locked. tighten the primary drive gear bolt to the torque setting specified at the beginning at the Chapter (see illustration] Note that ii you are using the alternator rotor bolt to counter-halo the crankshaft there should be no danger of it coming loose as it Is set to a higher torque setting. 10 On XL models. Install the ignition puls' generator collie) (see Chapter 5)- 11 Install the clutch (see Section is). .icm .. ,on andinsmlmon Note: The starter clutch can be removed With the engine in the irarnet II the engine has been removed, ignore the steps which do notapply. Check 1 The operation at the starter clutch can be checked while it is in situ. Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 9). Check that [ha starter drive gear is able to rotate freely anti‘ clockwise as you look at it via the starter motor aperture. but locks when rotated clockwise. it not, the starter clutch ls iaulty and should be removed tar Inspection. Removal 2 Remove the alternator rotor — the starter clutch Is mounted on the back of it (see Chapter 9). It the starter driven gear does not came away with the starter clutch. sllde it oii the crankshaft, Inspection 3 With the alternator rotor face down on a workbench, check that the starter dill/an gear rotates freely in an anticlockwise direction and locks against the rotor in a clockwise Engine, clutch and transmission 2-49 22.3 Check that the starter driven gear 22.4a Withdraw the near . . . 22.“) . . . and un XL models remove the males treaty amI-clnckwisa thnist washer direction (see Illustritionl. ll it doesn't, the starter clutch should be dismantled for lurthev investigation, 4 Withdraw the starter driven gear lrorrl the starter clutch isas illustration). it the gear Ippears stuck. rotate it antieclockwiss as you Withdraw it to free It from the starter clutch. 0n XL models. remove the thrust washer (see Illustration). 5 Check the condition at the eprags inside |ha clutch body and the corresponding surface on the driven gear hub (see Illustration). ll they are damaged. marked or flattened at any point, they should be replaced With new ones. Measure the cutside diameter of the hub and check that it has not worn heycnd the eervrce limit specified. To temnve the sprag assembly. hold the rotor using a holding strap and unscrew the bolts made the rotor (see Illustration). Remove the spray housing from the rotor and the sprag assembly from the housing. noting how it tits. Install the new assembly in a reverse sequence. Apply clean engine art to the sprays. Apply a suitable non-permanent thread locking ccmpnund to the bolts and tighten them to the torque setting spociiisd at the beginning or the Chapter. 8 Slide the needle roller bearing of? the crankshaft r you will have to remuve the Wondriirr key rirst ii not already done (see illustrations). Check the bearing and its canespontimg surfaces in the starter driven gear hub and on the orankshert It the bearing surfaces show Signs cl excessive wear or the healing ltsoii Is worn or damaged. they should be replaced with new ones, Measure the intide diameter at the hub and check that it Ills nut wL‘irn beyond the service limit specified. 7 Check the teeth or the starter motor drive shaft. starter drive gear. idle/reduction gear and starts! driven gear. Replace the gears and/or starter motor ii worn or chlpped teeth ire discovered on related gears. Also check the starter drive gear and idle/reduction gear malts (or damage, and check that the gears are not B loose fit on the shaft. Replace the shirts with new ones it necessary installation E Lubricate the needle roller bearing with clean engine all and slide It on the crankshaft (sea illustration 226a). Flt the Woodrurr key (see illumtlon 22.65). 9 On XL models. inStflll the thrusl washer (see Illustration 22.40). Lubricate the outside of the starter driven gear hub with Clean englne all. then til the gear into the clutch. rotating it anti-clockwise as you do so to spread the sprags and allow the hub to enter (see Illustration 22.43). 10 Install the alternator rotor (see Chapter 9). 23 Crankcese — § separation and reassembly § ‘N Separation 1 To access the crenksnart and connecting rods. bearings. oil pump and tmnsmlsslon components. the crankcase must be split into two parts. 2 To enable the crankcasa to be separatedr the engine must be removed (mm the lrame (see Section 5) and the loltuwrhg assemblies removed: Camsharts (Section 9) Cam chaln tensioners (Section ll) Cylinder heads {Section 12) Cylinder bane/s (Section 15) Water pump (Chapter 3] Starter motor (Chapter 9) lgnl'tian pulse generator calls (Chapter 5) Clutch (Section 13) Geerchange mechanism {Section 20) anary drive gear (Section 21) Allematar (Chapter 9) Starter clutch (Section 2?) Cam chains (Sectl'arl 10) a It required. unscrew the bolt(s) securlrig the oil seal retainer plate to the left-hand side 01 2253 check the condition of the swag and gear huh as descrlhed ' 2.. 22.62 Hemove the Woodrufl‘ key . u . Zzfih . . . and slide the hearing of! the shaft 2-50 Engine, clutch and transmission ma Remove the oil seal retalner plate the crankcase and remove the plate, noting now it llts (sea Illustration). 4 Lay the engine on Its rlthlaild slde. Unscrew the 6 mm bolls in the leftmand side of [he m‘ankmse. follnwad by the 8 mm bulls lseo Illustration). stacken the bolts evenly and a llhle at a time In a miss-cross pattern untll they are all loose, lrlBrI remove the bolts. Note: As each ball is removed, stare ll in Its relative position in a cardboard template Gillie crankcase halves. This will ensure all bolts are installed in the correct location an reassembly. 5 Carefully turn the engine over onto its lett- hand side and support it on wooden blocks so the end affine lransmlsslon oulpul shafl Is all the work surlaae. Unscrew the 6 mm bulls ill the rIghi—hand side Dl the crankcase. lullowed by the 8 mm bolls (see illustration 23.4). Slacken [lie bolls evenly and a llflle al a tlrne In a cries-cross pattern until they ara all loose. then remove the bolls. Note the copper 235 Meta the sealing washer (snowed) with fills but! 23.6: Rotate the selector drum cam plate until the arms malch the holes in the crankcase filGHT—HAND SIDE LEFr—HAND SIDE 23.4 crankcase 6 mm colts (A) and 8 mm bolts (3) sealing washer 0n the lap 5 mm bell in between me cylinders (see illustration]. Note: As each bolt is rsmaved, store it In its mlallve position in a cardbaam template or the crankcase halvest Thls will Ensure all bolls ale installed in (he Carma! localiari an reassembly. 6 ll the gear Selector drum cam plate has not been removed (see Section 20). rotate it so that Its outline shape matches the hole in the righthand crankcase half. otherwxse it wlll snag on the case when it is titted (see Illustration). Carefully llh the right-hand crankcase hall off the left-hand hallo using a screwdriver in the leverage pcinm and a salt hammer to tap around the joint and gently on (he Shall Ends l0 Initially separate me halves ll necessary (see Illustratlan). Note: I! the halves do not separate easily. make sure all iasreners have been removed. Do not try and separate the halves by leveling against the crankcase mar/n9 surroces as they are easily scored and Will leak oil. Use only the special leverage point. The right-hand side crankcasa half will come away by Itseli. leaving the oil pump, crankshaft. lransrllisslon shafts. selector drum and selector torks In the loit- hand crankcase hall. 7 Remove the two locating dowels from the crankcase it they are loose {they could be In either crankcase hall). noting their locations isoo Illustration). ll lne oil pump and its pipe are not being disturbed, remove the exposed o-ring irom the all nice, noting which way up it fits. and discard It as a new one must be used. Shack that the thrus1 washer is on KM righl-hal’ld and vi lhe transmission outpul shaft; ll riot, it is probably stuck to me bearlllg In the right—hand crankcase hall. Reassembly 8 Remove all traces or sealant from the crank» case mating suriaoes. Sunptm the left-hand half on wuoden block: so (he end of the trans- mission output shah is on the work sunoce. 9 Ensure that all components and their bearings are in place in the righ1 and left-hand crankcase halves. Ii the oil pump and its plp! have not been removed, install a new D—rlng, wilh ils tapered side lacing uul. unlu the exposed and altha pipe (see illustration an. Chwk that the lhmsl washer ls Insmlled on (he righhhand end or the transmission cumin shalt. 10 Generously lubricate (n9 Iransmlssiall shafts. selector drum and forks. and file cranksheit, particularly around the bearings. WIth molybdenum dlsulphlds all (a mixture 01 50% molybdenum disulphide grease and 50% angina oil). then use a rag soaked In him flash-palm solver" la wipe over the gasket suriaces Ol both halves to remove all lraces (.71 mi. 23.6b Lin [he right-hand crankcase hall off the lull-hand hall 23.7 Remove the dowels (A) if loose, renew the O-ring (B). and note the thrust washer (c) Engine, clutch and transmission 2-51 2113 Apply a scalar“ to the mating surface at the right crankcase hall ‘1 Install the two locating dowels in the left hand crankcase hall (5A3 illustration 23.7). l2 ll installed. make sure the seleclor drum cam plate is positioned as on removal to allow ills light-hand crankcase hall to fit over ll (see Illustration 23.63). Also make sure that each connecting rod is positioned correctly lcr lis cylinder. in Apply a small arnuunt cl SUItable sealant tc the mating surrace cl the right-hand clmkcase half (see illustration). Caution: Do not apply an excess/vs amount ofslalanl. as it will ooze out when the ass. halves an: assembled and may obstruct nil passages, l5 Check again that all components are In position. then careluliy til the rlgntvhand crankcase half onto me leltrhand half isee illustration 23.6w. Make sure the dowels. Oil pipe and shaft ends all locate correctly il‘llo the right-hand crankcass liallr Note that It is easy lor me all pipe rim to contact Ina rlrn ol ll: sucker in the right-hand hall and so pravenl the crankcase seating. lnserl a screwdriver into the gap between the crankcase halves and move the pipe slightly while applying light downward oressure on lite crankcase — as soon as the pipe aligns wllh ils socket lhc crankcase will Inwer unto it 15 Check that the right~hand crankcase hall is correctly sealed. Mole: The crankcase nail/es should lit together without being lowed. ll [lie Casings Ere nDt correctly seated, remove the right-hand hall and investigate the problem. Do not attempt to pull them together rising the bolts as the casing WlIl crack and be aimed. 16 Clean the threads of the right-hand crankcase Dolls and Insert them in their cnginal locations (see Illustration 23.4). Make sure lhe ccccer sealing washer is installed will! the lop 3 mm boll In between the cylinders (see illustration 23.5). Secure all halts hand-light at lirst then tighten the. 8 mm bolls lollowsd by the 6 mm colts evenly and a little at a time in a crisscross pattern to the lcrque settings specified at the beginning cl Illa Chapter. When lorqulng the belts, be sure to dlslinguisl’i correctly between the 8 mm bolts and the 6 mm bolts. 17 Clean the threads of Ills left-hand crankcase bolts and install them in lnelr the bolt (snowed) and ramave the plate original locations (599 illustration 23.4). Secure all boils hand-tight at first, then lighten the 5 mm bolls followed by the 6 mm bolts evenly and a little at a time in a miss-cross pattern to the torque settings specified at the beginning ol the Chapter. When torquing the trolls. he sure \u distinguish ccrreclly between the 6 mm bolts and the 6 mm bolts. 18 Wlth all crankcase bolts lightened, check that the crankshafl and transmission shafts rotate smoothly and easily. Select each gear in rum and check the operation or the transmission in each gear. then select neutral and check that the snails can turn llaely and independently or each other, ii there are any signs of undue silliness. tlgnl or rough spots, or of any other problem, the fault must be rectified celore promeding further. 19 install all other removed assemblies in me reverse or he sequence given in Steps 2 and 3. Apply a suitable nonrpermanent threada locking ccrripciuncl to the all seal retainer plate cells (see illustration 23.3). 24 crankcase — : inspection. servicing and renewal ' If”? Inspection and servicing 1 After the crankcases have been separated. remove the oil pump, and on XRV models lrle oil dlslrlbuml. the crankshaft and connecting rods. transmission shafts. selector drum and torks, neutral switch and oil pressure switch. referring to the relevant Sections of this cii seal in) and me gearcnange shart cii seal (B) Chapter. and to Chapter 9 for ll'le neutral and all pressure Switches. Refer to Section 30 and to Tools and Workshop Tips in the Relerence Section for checks and inlarmation on the transmisslorl shaft bearlngst Refer to Sections 26 and 27 and to Tools and Warkshcp Tips in the Reference Section for checks and inlormaricn on the crankshatt main bearlngs. 2 ll not already done (Section la). prise the oil lets cut of the crankcase: Using a small screwdriver (see Illustration 16.13:) A take care not to damage them. Remove the Darings and discard them (see illustrallon 15.13h)t Cle’Elll the jets with solvent and blow them through wlth compressed all it available. 3 Unscrew the boil securing the Cam chain tensioner set plate to the right-hand crankcase hall and remove the plate. nctlng how it lifs (see illustration). 4 Unscrew the mills) securing the oil seal retainer plate to the lallenand hall of the crankcase and remcve the plate, noting how it fits (see illustration 233). Check the condition ol the oil seals and replace lhem With new ones if there any signs of damage. deformation cr eil leakage (see Illustration). Lever out the old seal with a screwdriver, then press or drlve the new seal in using a suitable socket or seal driller (see illustrations), 5 Remove all traces of old gasket sealant lrorn the mating surlaces. Clean up minor damage to the surfaces with a line sharpening stone 0r gnndslone. a Clean me crankcases thoroughly with new solvent and dry them with compressed all. Blow out all all passages with compressed air. Lever om the old seal a t 244a . and press or driva the new one inlc placa 2-52 Engine, clutch and transmission size letters (a) Caution: Be verywrefulrlat to nick orgouge llle crankcase mating surfaces or oil leaks will result. Check both crankmse halves very iaaierulry [or melts and other damage. 7 Check that all the cyllnder studs are tight in the crankcase halves. it any are loose. remove them. then clean their threads and apply a suitable non-permanent thread locking compound and tighten them to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter. When tomuing the studs. be sure to distinguish correctly between the H mm Stud and the 10 mm studs. 5 Small cracks or holes in aluminium castlngs can be repaired with an epoxy resin adhesive as a temporary measure. Permanent repairs can only be done by argon-arr: welding and only a speclallst in this process is In a position to advise on the economy or practical aspect of such a repair. it any damage ls round that can‘t be repaired. replace the crankcase halves as a set 9 Damaged threads can be economically reclaide using a diamond section wire insert. for example at the Hell-Coll type [though there are other makes), which is easily titted after drilling and rte-tapping the attested thread. 10 sheared studs Cir screws can usually be removed with extractorsV which consist of a tapered. ion-hand thread screw of very hard 24.133 Main bearing Journal sire numbers (N. big—end bearing steel. These are inserted into a pre-drilled hole in the stud, and usually succeed in dislodging the most Stubborn stud or screw. it a Stud has sheared above its bore line, it can be removed using a conventional stud extractor which avoids the need for drilling. 5 Wm Tools and Tips turd-stairs or installing thread Insert and using screw wtll!mrs. 11 install all components and assemblies. rererring to the Steps above and the relevant Sections of this and the other Chapters, belore reassamhling the crankcase halves. Fit new O—rings onto the all lets (see Illustration 16.1313) belore installing them (see Illustration 16.13:). Crankcase renewal 12lt new crankcases are required. replacements are supplied on a selected flt according to the crankshaft maiii journal size — this is so that the crankcasss are supplied with the correct size main bearings. Code numbers and letters stamped on the crankshaft and crankcase are used to identify the correct replacement 1: Each crankshaft main bearing loumai size 24t13h Main hearing size letter (snowed) number is stamped on the Outside crankshflit Web adjacent to the joumai. and will he ehhaa l or a 2 (see illustration). The corresponding main bearing size letter is stamped into tire appropriate crankcase halt adlacent to the beefing housing and will be either an A or a B (see illustration). It the crankshaft journal size is coded 1, the corresponding crankcase main bearing must be coded A. if the crankshaii luumal size is coded 2. the corresponding crankcase main bearing must be coded B. inspection and Installation § Note: To access the oil pump the engine must be removed tram the llama and the crankmsessaparatsd. Removal 1 Separate the crankcase halves (Section 23]. 2 Unscrew the bolt securing the pressure relisl valve cover to the pump then remove the cover from the end of the rellef valve (sue illustrations) it required, withdraw the valve from the pump (see illustration). Discard the valve Ocrlng as a new one must be used. Hater to Step 12 tor rellel valve checks. { pandpresau renal valve- removal. 25.23 Unscrew the non renewed) . . . 25.2b . . . and ramcve the cover A A . and withdraw tire pressure renal valve 2526 . . . Engine. clutch and transmission 2-53 5.3.1 . . . and the pump dowel a Unscrew the remaining two bolts securing lite pump assembly to the crankcase. then remve the pump aiang with its oil pipe (see iiiustrations). Remove the two oil passage collars lrorn the crankcase and discard their (Hinge as new ones must be used (an WWIO"). Remove the pump dowel It It is page — it could he in either the pump or the crankcase (see illustratian). Inspection I Remove the oil pipe truth the pump and flmrd its O»r'ings as DEW Dries must be used (I. llluslrfllnn]. Efiemave the oil strainer from the pump. noting how it iits (use iitustratinn) Discard lite seal as a new one must be used. a Unscrew the three bolts arid separate the tutor housing lrorn the pump body (see lustrallon). Remove the dowals from either in: housing or the body it they are loose (:ee Imufiun) 1 Wllhdmw the pump drive shaft and remove the thrust washer and the drive pin. hating hnw rt memes in the shaft and in the notches in the inner rotor. Remove the inner and outer more mm the pump body. Note whether the flinch mark an the outer rater in or out 0! the imaging su it can be installed the same way «and, Clean all the components In solvent, 5 inspect the pump Cindy and rotors tor scorlng and wear (see illustration). it any mags. secrlng or uneven or excessive wear 5 evident. repiece the pump with a new one lhdivldual components are not available). 9 Measure the clearance between the inner 25.4 Remnve the on pipe and discard lls O-riugs rotur tip and the uuter rotor with a teeier gauge and compare it to the maxlmum clearance listed in the specifications at the peginning or the Chapter (see iiiustration), If .I 255 Remove the strainer. noting how it A , fits the clearance measured is greater than |he maximum listed. replace the pump With a new one. 10 Measure the clearance between the outer 25.6!) . . . and draw the rotor housing of! the pump 3's _... 25.3: Remtwe the dowels (arrowed) it lam 25.8 Scoring is evident on this pump romr and in the huusing 54 Engine, clutch and transmission 25.9 Measure the rotor tip clearance as shuwn rotor and the pump body with a ieeler gauge and compare ii to the maximum clearance listed in the specifications at ihs beginning or the Chapter [see Illustration). If the clearance measured is greater than the maximum listed. replace the pump with a new one. . _ . ‘ 25.12.: Withdraw the reliet valve trom the pump clearance as shown 11 Lay a straighteoge across the rotors and the pump body and. using a ieeler gauge. measure the rotor and float (the gap between the rotors and the stratghtedgei (see Illustratlnn). ll the Clearance measured is greater lhan the maximum listed, replace the pump with a new one. 12 ll not already done, withdraw the reliel valve mm the pump (see illustration). Dlscard its o-rlng. Press dawn on the plunger and check that it moves freely in the body and returns under spring pressure (see illustration). Remove the circllp tram the end of the reliei valve body and withdraw the washer. spring and valve plunger (see illustrations). Clean all the components in soivent. Check thel the plunger moves ireeiy in the may and inspect it for wear or damage. it the valve is good. install the plunger into the body. lollowed by the spring and the washer. and secure them in place with the cireiip (see 25.1] Measure the mint and float as shown illustrations). Note that apart train the o-rmg. none of the reliel valve components am available separately. i=tt a new oarirtg onto til: valve (see Illustration). and it required now. iii the valve into the pump (see illusirelimr 25.12am 13 Check the pump drlve chain and sprockets lor wear or damage. and replace them as a set it necessary. 14 ll the pump is good. make sure all ill! components are clean, then lubricate then with new engine ollr Fit the outer rotor into lM housing with the punch mark racing the same way as noted on removal (see illustration). F» the inner tutor into the outer rmar sn that its notches lace out (see illustratiun). Slide the thick-tabbed end of the shaft into the inner rotor. than fit the drive pin into the shaft (599 Illustrations). Slide the shalt iuily home so that the drive pin ends lit into the notches in the inner rotor (sac illustration). Fit Irie thrusl 25.12b Check the plunger moves smoothly in the body 251% ...and the washer. spring and plunger l 1 (it ‘3 25.12e insert the plunger. . . 25.12!K .. . and the spring . .. 25.129 . . r then llt the washer and circlin Engine, clu’rch and transmission 2'55 .trren lit Ihe drive pin into its hole . . . 25.1w . . washer over the shall and amp the inner rumr [Alt Illuaflalion). 15 Fit the dowels mm “12 pump body If they were removed [see lllustratlnn 25.8c). Flt the .146 . . . and laoaha its ends in the inmr Mar rotor huuslng. making sure lhe dowels locale correctly (see Illustration). Fir the three bolrs into me pump body and lighten rnem securely (see Illustration). 25.153 slide the shaft through we pump and locate the rotor housing , . . shaft 16 Smear a new seal for the strainer with clean all and fit It into lhe pump (see illusirarinn), Make sure lhe strelner is clean and lree of any debrls. then m It Into lhe seal, on models with an oval (as opposed in round) slrainer maklng sure its rlm locates correctly (see Iliumauons). 17 Fit new O-rlngs. smeared wllh clean engine oil and wllh their tapered side facing curl to each end or the pump oll pipe. then lit the pipe IMO the pump (sea illusrran'ons). Installation 15 Flt rhe all passage collars lntn the 2 crankcase and lil new O-rings around iriem (see illustration 25.311 ll removed, also fit me pump dowel (see Illustration 253$ 19 Before Installan the pump. prlme II by pouring oil into the curler and turning the shaft 5.16b . and the strainer . . . 25,161: . . . maklng me It locates correctly [arrowl 2 56 Engine, clutch and transmission 25.17:. Flt new o—rings . .. by hand This ensures that Oil is being pumped as soon as the engine IS turned over. 20 Install the pump with lts on pipe onto the crankcase. making sure the pump locates correctly onto the dowel and collars and the pipe is properly inserted into Its hole lsee illustration 25.3Ml Install the pump bolts and tighten them securely (see illustration meal. 2t ll not already done. lit a new O~ring onto the pressure reliei valve. then fit the valve into the pump (see illustrations 25.t2a and 25.26). Fit the cover over the end at the valve and secure ll With Its bull (5B9 Illustrations 25.2: and a). 28 Main and connecting rod baarings — general information 1 Even though main and connecting rod heal-rigs ale generally replaced with new ones during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be retained lor close examination as they may reveal valuable information about the condition at the engine 2 Bearing iarlure occurs mainly because of lack Dl lubricallnn, the presence of dirt or other toreiqn particles. overloadino the engine and/or corrosrcin. Regardless Dl thB cause at bearing failure. it must be corrected before lhfi engine is reassembled to prevent it lrorn happening again a When examining the connecting rod bearings. remove them lrurn the connecting rods and caps and lay them out on a clean surraoe in the some general position as their 25‘17b . . a making sum their tapered sides lace out location an the crankshaft lournols. This will enable you to match any noted bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft lournai. 4 Dirt and other torsion particles get into the engine in a variety of ways. it may be left in the engine during assembly or it may pass thmugh filters or breathers, it may get into the oil and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present, Abrasives are sometimes leit in englnc components alter reconditioning operations, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source. these roreign obiects often end up imbedded in the soft bearing material and are easily recognised, Large particles will not imbed in the bearing and will score or gouge the bearing and Journal, The best prevention for this cause at bearing failure Is to clean all parts thoroughly and keep everything spotlessly clean during engine reassembly. Frequent and regular oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication or lubrication breakdown has a number or interrelated causes, Excessive heat [which thins the oil]. overloading (which squeezes the oil iron. the hearing race) and Oil leakage or throw on llrorn excessive bearing clearances. worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages will also slarve shearing and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure. the hearing material is wiped or extruded from the steel banking at the! 27.2 Lift the crankshaft out 01 the crankcase 275 Check the main bearings as described bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing and the loumal turn blue from overheating. “““ES new» Tools-9nd Workshop Tlpl forbaan‘rrg fault finding.- 3 Rldirlg habits can have a definite effect all bearing lite. Full throttle low speed operatluri. or labouring the engine, puts very high load; on bearings. which tent: to squeeze out the Oil lllm. These loads cause the hearings to flex. which produces tina cracks in the bearing lace (fatigue lallurel. Eventually the bearing material Will loosen in places and tear away irom the steel backing. Short trip riding leads to corrosion ol bearings. as insuriiclent angina heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases produced. Thesa products collect in the engine Oil. iormlng acid and sludge, AS the all is carried lo the engin- bearings, the aCId attacks and oorrodes the bearing material. 1 lncorrect hearing Installation durlhg englna assembly will lead to hearing [allure as wall. Tight fitting bearings which leave insufficient bearing oil clearances result in oil starvation. Dirt or loreign particles trapped behind a bearing insert result in high spots on the bearing which lead to failure. 3 To avoid bearing problems. clean all part: thoroughly before reassembly. double check all bearing clearance measurements and lubricate the new hearings wtth clean engine oil during installation. l §l l \l Removal 1 Separato the crankcase halves (rotor at Section 23). 2 Lift the crankshaft out cl [he leflrhand crankcase hair (see illustration). it It appears stuck. tap it gently using a soft-faced mallet. 3 if required, remove me connecting rods train the cmnkshaft (see Section 28), Inspection 4 Clean the cranksnart with solvent. using I rifle~cleanlng brush to scrub out the oil passages. it available, blow the crank dry with compressed air. and also blow through the oil passages. Check the cam chain sprockets lot wear or damage. ii any or the sprocket teeth on the left-hand end are excessively worn. chipped or broken, the crankshaft must be replaced With a new one. 5 Refer to Section 26 and examine the main hearings (see Illustration). lfthey are scored. badly scuriao or appear to have been seized. new bearings must be installed. Always replace no main hearings as a set. it they are 27 Crankshaft and main bearings ~ removal, inspection and installation , Engine, clutch and transmission 2-57 17.88 Measure the diameter of the main Journal . . . badly damaged. check the corresponding mankshalt jdumal. Evidence of extreme heat. such as discoloration, indicates that lubrication iallure has occurred. Be sure to momugtily check the oil pump and pressure relief valve as well as all all holes and passages beiure reassembling the engine. 6 inspect the crankshaft icurnals. paying particular attention where damaged bearings have been discovered. II the journals are scared or pitted in any way a new crankshaft will he required, Note that undersizes are not available. precluding the option or re-grinding me crankshaft. 7 Piace the crankshaft on V-olecks and check the runout at the main bearing journals using a dial gauge. Compare the reading to the muimum specified at the beginning of the Chapter I! the runaul exceeds the limit, the crankshaft must be replaced. Oil clearance check 8 Whether new bearing shells are being fitted ar the original ones are being re-used. the main bearing oil clearance should be checked prior to reassembly. 9 Using a Vernier caliper. measure the diameter of the crankshaft main bearing )ouritsls (sea illustration) Using a bore gauge and micrometer. measure the internal diameter oi the main bearings [see Ilustratianiv Calculate the difference between the two to determine the main hearing all clearance and compare the results to the . . and the intcmai diameter or the main bearing 21.9!) . specifications at the beginning of the Chapter. If the oil clearance exceeds the service liniii. new main bearings must be selected and installed. Main bearing selection to Replacement main bearings are supplied on a selected fit bests. Remove the old bearings train the crankcases (see below). Using a bore gauge and micrometer. measure the internal diameter or the bearing housing in each crankcase hall and record them. Also note the clankshatt main )oumal size number. as marked on the crankshaft web adjacent to the ioumal (see illustration 24.133), To select the correct bearing tore particular journal and housing size. use the table below and cross- rercr the )durnal size number (stamped on the crank web) with the housing size as measured to determine the colour code or the bearing required. Main bearing replacement 11 Replacement or the main bearings requires the use at a hydraulic press In order to avoid damaging either the crankcase or the new bearings. It is therefore advised that replacement is undertaken by a Honda dealer or a suitably equipped specialist. Note that there is a lab on the main bearing which must align with the groove in the housing rim (sec illustration). Apply molybdenum disulphide oil (a mixture or 50% molybdenum disulphide grease and 50% engine oil) to the outside or the bearing to ease Its entry into the housing. mucous _ Main beefing Inurnal code Minn boom housing size 2 ’- (MSBA to “.891 mm rename detain mm ' 1 444.992 minutiae-rm) i Elecit' ‘_ ‘ #3:th 40.010 mm A— Blue lm‘meidfls mthhurtnghoming size f rimmed 53.989rnrri snow to $3.990 min 27,11 Align the tab (A) with the groove in) Crankshaft selection 12 If a new crankehail is required. the replacement is selected according to the crankcase main bearing size ~ this Is so thai the correct oii clearance is maintalnod, Code numbers and letters Stamped on the crankshaft and crankcase are used to identily the correct replacement. Each crankshaft main bearing )durnal size number is stamped on the outside crankshaft WED adjacent lo the )ournai. and will be either a 1 or a 2 (sea illustration 24.133). The corresponding main bearing size letter is stamped inte lha appropriate crankcase hair adlacnnl to the bearing housing and Will be either an A or a a [see illustration 24.139). ii the main bearing size is coded A. the corresponding crankshatt loumal must be coded 1, if the main bearing size is coded B, the corresponding crenitshaii lournal must be coded 2 Installation 13 If removed. fit the connecting rods onto the crankshaft (see Section 28]. 14 Apply molybdenum disulphide oil (a mixture of 50% molybdenum disulphide grease and 50% engine oil) to the main bearings (see illustration) Carefully lower the tapered (alternator) end or the craititshaii into 2 position in the left-hand crankcase (see illustration 27.2). 15 Reassembie the crankcase halves (see Section 23). 27.14 Lubricate the main bwrirlgs belore Installing the crankshaft 2-58 Engine, clutch and transmission .5' , _ , , L 23.2 Measure the connecting rod side clearance as Connecting rods — ‘ removal. Inspection _ and installation : flit/‘2‘ Removal 1 Remove the crankshatt (see Section 27). 2 Before removing the rods from the crank shaft. measure the side clearance on each rod with a feelsr gauge (see iiiumarioni If the clearance on any rod ls greater than the service limit listed in this chapter's Specifications. that rod will have to be replacad with a NEW one. 3 Using paint or a felt marker pen. mark the relevant cylinder identity on each connecting rod, Mark across the canto—connecting rod join to ensure that the cap is fitted the correct way around on reassembly. Do not obscure the existing markings on one at the connecting rod faces (mark the cyllnder H] on the other Side) - my 2&3 Note the md's size and weight code markings (arrnwad) the number already marked is the connecting rod big-end size code, and the letter is the rod's weight code (see Illustration). 4 Unscrew the bigend cap nuts and separate the connecting rod, cap and both bearing shells from the crankpin [sea Illustrations). Keep the rod, can, nuts and (it they are to be re-usedl the bearing shells together in their correct pasiticlns to ensure correct Installation. Inspection 5 Check the connecting rods for cracks and other obvious damage. 6 ll not already done (see Section 16). apply clean engine oil to the piston pin, insert it into the connecting rod small-end and check for any freeplay between the two. Measure the pin CD (See Illustration 15.1232) and the Small~ and bore ID and compare the measurements to the specifications at the beginning of the Chapter (sea Illustration). Calculate the difference between the measurements taken to obtain the piston pin-tusmall end clearance and compare the result to the specifications Replace components that are worn beyond the specified limits. 7 Refer to Section 25 and examine tho connecting rod bearing shells. if they ave scored. badly scuffed or appear to have seizcd. new shells must be installed. Always replace the shells in the connecting rods as I set. If they are badly damaged, check the corresponding cmnkpin. Evidence of extreme heat, such as discoloration. Indicates thal lubrication failure has occurred. Be sure to thoroughly check the oil pump and pressme relief valve as well as all all holes and passages before reassembllng the engine. 8 Have the rods checked for twist and bond by a Honda dealer if you are in doubt about their strelghtnesst Oil clearance check 9 Whether new bearing shells are being filled or the original ones are being reused. titii connecting rod bearing on clearance shouio be checked prior to reassembly. 10 Remove the bearing shells from the connecting rod and cap (see Illustraticnii Clem the backs of the shells and the bearing locations in both the rod and cap. 11 Press the bearing shells into their locations. ensuring that the tab on each shot engages the notch in the connecting rod/cap (see illustrations). Make sure the bearings are iltted In the correct locations and take care not to touch any Shell's bearing surface with your fingers, 28.43 Unscrew the connecting rod big and cap nuts (snowed) , . . 23.1“: . . . and separate the rod from the shaft 28.10 Hume the shells from the rod and up 2&8 Measure the connecting rod small end internal dlameter making sure the mates in the notch Engine. clutch and transmission 2 '59 2am Measure the diameter or the crankpin to see it it is worn i2 out two lengths of the appropriate size Plasligauge (they should be slightly shorter than the Width of the crankpin). Place a strand oi Plasllgauge on each (cleaneol crankpin lournal and ill the (clean) connecting rod assemblies. Shells and caps (see illustration MAD). Make sure the cap is tilted the correct way amund so the previously made markings align. and tighten the bearing cap nuts evenly and a llttiEt at a time to the torque setting specified at the beginning at the Chapter whilst ensuring that the connecting rod does not rotate (see illustration 28.208 and bl. Slacken the cap nuts and remove the connecting rod assemblies again taking great care not to rotate the crankshaft. 13 Compare the Width of the crushed Plastigauge on each crankpin to the scale printed on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain the connecting rod bearing oll clearance. ll ll the clearance is not within the specrlled Iiililts. the bearing shells may be the wrong grade (or excesswaiy worn it the original shells are being re—used). Belore deciding that dHlerent grade shells are needed. make sure that no em or oil was trapped between the bearing shells and the connecting rod or cap when the cleamrlce was measured. it the clearance is excessive. even with new shells [of the correct size). measure the diameter or the mnkpln and compare it to the speCillcations lace illustration). it it Is worn. the crankshaft should be replaced with a new one. is On completion carefully scrape away all times of the Plastigauge material from the crankpln and haarlng shells using a fingernail or olheruhiecr which is unlikely to score the shells. Bearing shell selection l8 Replacement bearing shells lor the big- eno bearings are supplied on a selected iii basis. Codes stamped on the crankshaft and "1d are used to identity the correct replacement hearings. The crankpln lournal size number is stamped on the crankshait middle Web aulacenl to the crankpin and will be either an A or a B (see Illustntion 24.123). ihaconnectlng rod size code is markeo on the llal lace of the connecting rod and cap and will oestlhera 1 or a 2 (sea illustration 26.3). t7 A range oi bearing shells is available. Select the correct bearing shells tor a 23.20a Lubricate tho nuts as described . . particular connecting rod in accordance with the table below. The bearings themselves are ldentllied by a letter and a corresponding colour (see table below). The dimensions relating to the particular codes are given in the soeclrlcations at the beginning of the Chapter. Connecting rod selection 15 ii a connecting rod needs to be replaced. the weight oi the replacement (Cid needs to be matched to the other rod being re-used. it both rods are being replaced. they need to be matched together. The connecting rod weight code is marked on the flat lace oi the connecting rod and cap and will be either an A, B. C or a D (see illustration 25.3). ideally each rod should have the same weight code as the other. but it is acceptable to be one letter different, e.g. A and B coded rods could be USed together. but not A arid C coded rods. Installation to clean the backs of the bearing shells and the bearing housings in both cap and roll. it new shells are being titted. ensure that all traces oi the protective grease are cleaned all using paratiln (kerosene) Wipe the shells. cop and rod dry wtth a clean lint free cloth. Fit the hearing shells in the connecting rods and caps, making sure the tab on each shell engages the notch in the connecting rod/cap (see illustrations 2110, 11a and to). Lubricate the shells wnn molybdenum disulphide oil (a 50/50 mixture at molybdenum disulphide grease and clean engine oil). Fit the connecting rod onto the crankpin and lit the 23.2% and tighten them to the specified torque setting cap onto the rod (see illustration 28,4h), Make sure the cap is fitted the correct way around so the previously made markings align Check to make sure that all components have been rstumed to melt original locations using the marks made on dlsasseri'iblyl 20 Apply some clean oil to the threada and under the heads of the Connecting rod nuts; if new rods are being fitted they should come supplied with new bolts and num Fit the nuts and tighten them evenly and a little at a time to the torque setting speciiied at the beginning oi the Chapter (see Illustrations). 21 Check that the rods rotate smoothly and freely on the crankpln. ii there are any signs at roughness or tightness. remove the rods and re-check the bearing clearance 22 lnsmll the crankshaft (see Section 27). ' 29 Selector drum and tours - -§ removal-inspection _ K ‘ and installation - § Note: To access the selector drum and forks the engine must be removed {mm the fmme and the crankcases separated. Removal XLBODV-H to R (1987 to 1995) models 1 Separate the crankcase halves (Section 23) Remove the crankshart (see Section 27) , though not essential. working With it in place restricts access and makes the procedure fiddly. XL models ‘ , V' i. _ , , , , .Cmmlfllngrodwde I Qankpltt laurnai code ‘ ‘ ' 1 alumna 43.008 mm) ~ 2 - (43.006 to 43.016 trim) a enemiaiseo mm c — crown ‘ ‘ G—Emk " " ’ "7 a; (ass-M to occasion) a —,Blao'l< .A a Blue K XRV models , - i M _ riponiwotlngrod'ue eraoicaniElmai code :- («dunno 46.603 It'll“) {- («sonata to 46,31? min)" A (42932 to 42.9940“ F — Pink ‘ V yellow 97 42.914 to 4296.2 him) i it; — Yellow D — ersan’ 2-60 Engine, clutch and transmission M 295 Bend back the Iockwasher labs (A) and remove the bolt (Bi 2 The selector drum and forks must be removed along with the transmission shorts as a complete assembly. Note that each selector fork is marked ior Identification. The left-hand fork is marked with an 'L'. the middle lurk is marked with a ‘C', and the right» hand fork ls marked with an ‘Fl', all at which must face the right»hand crankcase half (see Illustration 3.7). ii no letters are visible‘ mark them yourseli using a felt pan. The right and left-hand lorks lit Into the output shaft and the centre tDrk lits into the input shalt. At this point make a carelul note ol where each iransmissmn shell is positioned in relation to the selector drum and the lurk assembly — the assembly must be removed an installed as one. and it Is easy to get contused when assembling them together on the work bench before installation. 3 Grasp the input shaft and output shatt and the selector drum and lorks and withdraw them lrom the crankcase as an assembly. noting their relative positrons and how they lit together. Separate the selector drum, lorlts and transmission shafts. noting how the guide pin on Each iork locates in lls groove In the drum. and how each fork engages in the groove or its pinion. 4 Check Whether the thrust washer on the left-hand End 0' each shalt is on the shell or in the crankcase (probably lying loose on the bearing). Fit the washer onto the and 0' each shaft as a reminoer for installation. Also note the thrust washer ml the righthand and Eli the output shalt. 5 It required slide the outer forks all the shaft. then bend back the tabs on the centre ntiricatlon letter on each lurk (arrow) 29.7 Nutefliei fork lockwasher. unscrew the bolt and remove the lockwasher, but note that unless you are performing the inspection process (see below) it is best to keep the forks assembled on the shall in their correct order and way round (see illustration). All other models 6 Separate the crankcase halves (Section 23). Remove the crankshaft (see Section 27] > though not essential, working with it in place restricts access and makes the procedure fiddly. 7 Note that each selector fork is marked for Identrtication. The left-hand lurk is marked with an 'L', the middle fork is marked with e ‘C'. and the righthand lurk is marked wllh an ‘n‘. all at which must lace the right-hand crankcase hall (sea illustration). it no letters are visible. mark them Vourseif using a tell pen. The right and lsflrhand forks iii‘. Into the Dulput shaft and the centre lurk fits into the input shah. a Withdraw the selector fork shaft lrom the crankcase. Pivot each iork out of its track in the selector drum, then withdraw the selector drum from the crankcase (see illustration 29.26h). Remove the selector forks. noting how they locate In the groove in their pinion (599 illustrations 295a. h and a). Vou may have to raise me bottom lcrk and its pinion so that the fork clears the crankcase land and can be removed. Once removed‘ slide the forks back onto the shaft In their correct order and way round. 29.10 Measure the selector tori! 1nd thickness Inspection 9 Inspect the selector forks for any signs at wear or damage. especially around the tort ands where they engage with the groove In the pinion. Check that each fork t‘lts correctly in Its Dinlnn groove. Check closely to see lithe forks are beni. if the torks are in any way damaged they must be replaced with new ones. 10 Measure the thickness 0' the fork ends and compare the readings to the Specifications (see illustration). Replace tin forks with new ones if they are worn beyond their specifications. 11 Check that the lurks fit correctly on thflr snort. They should move lneely with a light it but no appreciable freeplay. Measure the Internal diameter of the lork bores and the corresponding diameter at the lurk shalt (see illustrations). Replace the forks and/or shill with new ones It they are worn beyond their service limits, Check that the lurk shaft holes in the casing are neither worn nor damaged. 12 Check the selector fork shatt for truensa by rolling it along a flat surface, A bent rod wll cause difficulty in selecting gears and malts the gearshift action heavy. Replace the shell with a new one it it is bent. 13 inspect the selector drum grooves and selector lork guide pins tor signs or wear or damage. it either component shows signs at wear or damage the larkis) and drum must be replaced with new ones 14 Check that the selector drum bearing rotates freely and has no sign or rreepiay between It and the casing (sea iiiuetrstlan). 29.1 la Measure the internal diameter of each rant bore . . . 3.1 to . t . and the external diameter of its localluri an the shaft Engine, clutch and transmission 2-61 To lit a new bearingi remove the selector dmm cam plate by unscrawing the bolt in Its wine [see Illustration). Nate the locating pin Ill ins and of the drum and remove it for safekeeping If required. Remove the old bearing and lit a new one (see Tools and Warkshop Tips in the Hererencs Section il nucassaryl. install the selector drum cam. locating the pin in the amen! in the back M the cam plate. Apply a suitable non-permanent lined locking compound to the cam bolt and tighten it to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter. 15 On XL models. measure the diameter Dl‘ the ioumal on me Iaflarlarlfl and or the drum and compare the measurement tn the specifications (sea illustration). I! It is wDrn beyond the service limit. replace the selector drum With a new one. Also check the drum inurnal hole in the crankcase for wear or damage. installation XLSOOV-H In R (198710 1995) models 10 Slide the middle selector fork marked ‘C' onto the fork shall so that the ‘C' faces the rigllH'iand and of the shalt. Install the Inckwashar and boil. then lighten the bolt securely and band back the tabs ol the Incllwasiler to secure it in place [see lllmafian 29.5). 17 Lubricate the selector lurk shaft with mulybdenum disulphide all (a 50/50 mixture or molybdenum disulphide grease and clean Engine Dill. Slide the selector lurk marked 'L' onto the lalt-hand and at the shaft 50 that the 'L' lanes to the right-hand and. Slide the lurk marked ‘9' onto the right-hand end oi the shafl so that the 'R' faces to the right-hand and. 1B The selector drum and forks must he installed along with the lransmlssicn shafts as acarnplete assembly. To achieve this without the entire assembly tailing apart as It is installed. it is advisable to Obtalrl some cable lies so the shelts and selector forks can be strapped logetnar. Support the lelt-hand hall althe crankcase all women blocks so the and Di ths transmission output shaft does not contact the Work surface as it is installed. ‘9 Make sura that the thrust washer is 29.7.5: Locate the left-hand lork . . . 22.1w Unscrew the bolt (armwad) and remove the cam plate installed on the left-hand and 01 each shalt » apply a smear oi grease to the inner lace or each washer to make them stick to their adlacent plnlons and so prevent tnern dropping off as the shafts are installed (see illustratians 3138b and 51:1, and 30.17). Also make sure that the lhrust washer is installed on the nghtsnand end of the output shaft (sea illustratlon 31.55d). 20 Lay the transmission input shaft and mJtDUK shaft side by side on the bench so that the pinion: for each gear mesh tcgether (see illustration 30.18). Make sure that the shafts are the correct way round. with the smallest plrliun an the input shalt meshing with (he largest pinion on the output shaft. 21 Fit the selector fork assembly onto the transmission shafts. lunating each fork intD the groove in Its pinion. and making sure their identification marks are positinned as described In Step 2. Also make sure that the lork assembly is positioned correctly in relation in each shalt as noted an removali 22 Engage the selector drum with the forks. locating their guide pins in the selector drum tracks. again making sure everything is correctly positioned r the right-hand end or the selector drum car '95 the bearing. sci the selector lork marked 'Fl' must be engaged in the groove nearest the beating. and at the same end of the assembly as the smallest pinion on me input shall and the largest pinion on the output shaft. If you intend to use cable ties to hold the assembly together, fit them now. 23 Grasp the input shaft and output shaft ...thccenlrelcrk... 3.15 Measure the selector drum Journal diameter and the selector drum and forks and install them Into the leftrhend crankcase, making sure that both input shaft and output shaft ends engage in their bearings and the selector lurk shaft and and the selector drum Journal engage in illerr holes in the crankcase, Make sure the thrust washers do not drop off the ends ol the shaits as they are installed. I! cable ties were used. cut them and slip them out at position. 24 Install the crankshaft (see Section 27). Rsassambie the crankcase halves (see Seclian 23). All other models 25 Apply molybdenum disulphide oil (a 50/50 mixture at molybdenum disulphide grease and clean engine oil) to the selector lurk ends. Install Ihe selector fork marked ‘L' first. with its letter lacing up. and locate it in the groove of Its pinion on the output shaft — you may have lift the pinion up the shall a bit Sr) that the lark clears the crankcasa land (see illustration). Next install the lurk marked 'C‘ into the groove of its pinion on the Input shaft. again with the letter lacing up [see Illustration]. Finally install the fork marked ‘R'. let‘ler laCirlg up. Into the groove pl its pinion on me output shaft [sea illustratlnn). Posillnn they toms so they wlll not per in the way or the selector drum when sliding ii in, 25 Apply malypnenurn disulphide all (a 50/50 mixture or molybdenum disulphide grease and clean engine oil) to the icurnal on the left» hand and ol the selector dmmt Align [he drum so that the neutral Conlact will be against the plnlona 2-62 Engine, clutch and transmission the neutral switch (3) . . . neutral switch and note the orientation or the cam in this position so that it can be reiumed to lt later (see illustration). Slide the drum into position ln the crankcase, making sure the ionrnal locates lrl its bore In the casing (soc Illustration). cle pin on the end or each lurk into its groove in the selector drum - you may have to rotate the drum and/or move the links and their piniens up to achieve this (530 Illustration), Lubricate the selector lurk shalt with molybdenum disulphide oil (a swan mixture of molybdenum disulphide grease and clean engine oil) and slide it through each lork in tum, and into its bore In the crankcase (see Illustrafloh 29.88). as lnstali the crontishalt (see Secllon 27). Reassemole the crankcase halves (see Section 23) an Transmission shafts - removal andlnstallation ”If?" Removal XLGDOV—H to R [1987 to 1995) models 1 Separate the cmnkcase halves (Section 23). Remove the crankshaft (see Section 27) 7 though not essential. working vvllh it in place 29.27 Pivot each fork so its gulde pi locates in its track in the drum 29.28a Align the drum in the neutral content (A) will be against *‘i restricts accas and makes lhe urocedure tlodly. 2 The transmission shafts must be removed along with the seleclor drum and forks as a complete assembly. Note that each selector lurk is marked for identification. Tha lanai-land lork ls marked with an 'L‘i the middle fork is marked With a 'C'. and the right-hand fork is memed with an 'Fi'. all or which most lace the right-hand crankcase hall (see lllustratlon 29.7} it no letters are visible mark them yoursoll using a felt pen. The right and left-hand lurks lit into the Output shaft and the centre folk fits into the input Shall. At this point make a carelul note of where each transmission shaft is positioned in relafian to the selector drum and the fork assembly ~ the assembly must be removed an installed as one, and it is easy to get oonlused when assembling them together an the work bench before installation. a Grasp the input shaft and output shaft and the selector drum and lurks and withdraw them lrom the crankcase as an assembly. noting their relative positions and how they at together. Separate the selector drum. forks and lransmisslcn shafts, noting how the gwde pin on each fork locates in its groove in the drwrl, and how each fork engages in the groove at its pllllDrL 4 Check whether the thrust washer on the left—hand end of each shalt Is on the shaft or , ,z - , a. , n 30.8 Grasp the shifts and lift them out of the crankcase , then locate it in the crankcase in the aankcase (probably lylng loose on th- bearingl Flt the washer onto the end of each shalt as a reminder for installation. Also hole the thrust washer on the right-hand erlcl at the output shaft. 5 ll necessary. the transmission shafts can be disassembled and inspected lor wear or damage (see Section 31 i. All other models 6 Separate the crankcase halves (Section gal Remove the crankshafl (see Seclion 27) - though not essential. working with It in plane restricts access and makes the proceduri more fiddly. 7 Remove the selector drum and lurks ism Sermon 29). 8 Grasp the lrlput shaft and output shall. and withdraw them from the crankcase as an assembly, noting their relative positions and how they lit together (see Illustration). Separate the shafts, 0n XLGODV models check whether the thrust washer on the left. hand end of each shaft, and an Xi 550V models the thrust washer on the left-hand end 01 the input shaft. is on the shaft or In the crankcase (probably lying loose on the beanng). Fit the washer onto the end oi each shall as a reminder lor installatlon. On all models also note the thrust washer an the right-hand end or the output shah. c it necessary. the transmission sharia can be disassembled and inspected for wear or damage (see Section 31). Installation XLGODV‘H to R (1987 to 1995) models 10 The transmission shafts must be lrlstallsd along with the selector clmm and forks as a complete assembly. To achieve this without the entire assembly tailing apart as it is installed. it is advisable to Obtaln some cable ties so the shalts and selector forks can be strapped together. Support the lert»hand hall of the crankcase on wooden blocks so the end of the transmission Output shaft does not Contact the work surface as it is Installed. Engine, clutch and transmission 2-63 30.17 Apply grease to each thrust washer :1: hold it in place 11 Make sure that the thrust washer is installed an the leftrhand end 0' each shall [see lllustratlons 31.231: and 31.516). Auply nsmear of grease to the inner face ml each washer to make them Stick to lhelr adlacenl pinion: and so prevent them dropping off as the shafts are installed (see illuslreuon 30.17]. Also make sure that lhe thrust washer '5 iretallad on the right-hand end 01 the output shalt (see illustration 31.55d). 12 Lay the lnpul shaft and outpul snail side by side on lhe bench so that the plnicns tor aach gear mesh tagelher (see illustratlon 30.18). Make sure lhal the shafts are the cunecl way round. in which case the smallest pinion On the input shah meshes with the largest pinion on the ouipm shaft. 13 Fit the selector tork assembly onto the liansmlssion shalts, locating each lurk lntu lhegmuve ln lls pinlon, and making sure their ldenlihcation marks are positioned as described in Slap 2 Also make sure mm the lurk assembly ls posllloned correctly In Million lo each shall as noted on removal. 1‘ Engage the selector drum with the forks. locating their galde pins ln the selector drum hacks. again maklng sure everyxning is correctly posilioned , the right-hand end oi the selector drum carries the hearing. so Ihe selector lurk marked 'H' mus) be engaged in the groove nearest Ihe bearing, and m the same aid at the assembly as the smallesl pinion an the lnpul shaft and the largest pinion an the output shall. )1 you intent: in use cable lies tn hold the assembly together, fitlhern now. 15 Grasp the Input shaft and output shaft and lhe selectnr drum and forks and install them in“: the left-hand crankcase. maklng sills that both input shall and cutpul shaft ends engage in their bearings and the selector lnlk shaft end and the selector drum juumal engage in their holes in the crankcase. Make sure the thrust washers do not drop oft the ends at the shafts as they are inslalled. ll cable ties were used. an! lhem and slip them out at position. is install the crankshatt (see Section 27). Reassemble the crankcase halves (see Section 23). All other models )7 Support the left-hand hall of the crankcase an wooden blocks so the and or the 80.18 Pcslflnn the shafts side by side SO the relstiva pinion; mash "EnsmISSlon uulpul shall does not Contact the werk surface as ll ls IHStallad. On XLGGUV models make sure that the thrust washer is installed on the left-hand end of Bach shafl. and 0h XLBSOV models that one is installed on the left-hand end 01 lhe inpul shaft (see illustrations $1.28!! and 131.511,). Apuly a smear of grease to the inner lace 01 each washer 10 make them stlck to their adjacent pinions and so prevent them dropping art as the shafts are installed (see Illustration). On all models make sure mm the lhrusl washer is Installed on the right-hand and Dl IhE output shaft [see illuslralion 31.5511). la Lay the Input shall and output snail side by side on the bench so that me pinions tor each gear mesh Iogether (see illustration). Make sure mat the shafts are the correct way round, in which case the smallest pinlon on the lnDul shah meshes with the largest pinion on the output shall, 19 Grasp (its input shall and outpul shall and mm“ lhem intn the left-hand crankcase. making sure than both ends engage In their bearlngs (see illustration 30.5). 20 lnstall the selector drum and forks (see Section 29). 21 Install the crankshaft )l removed (see Sec~ (ion 27). Jain the crankcase halves (Section 23). _, 1‘ _ xx 1 Remove the transmission shafts lrom the crankcase (see Section 30). Always dis; assemble the rrnnsmissian shafts separalely lo avoid mixing up the componens. Input shaft disassembly HAVNES Winn disassembling , the tranamlnlan shuns. place the parts an a long md nr throad a wire through them to keep them In order and facing the pmper dlracflnn. 31 Transmisslon shafts ‘— dlsessembl _ ‘nspectlon and reassembly Nota: When removing the Ciro/fps. do no! expand the ends any Iurther than is necessary as they are easily distorted. Also take care to keep them square as they IWisr easily. If ln doubt about the condition ofa C/mllp. replace it with a new one. I! is advisable to use new ones as El mailer 0/ course. XLGOOV models 2 Ramme the thrust washer 1mm lne left»hnnd end of the Shah. lollowed by the 2nd gear pinion [see illustraljnn and 31.28b and a). 31.2 Transmission input shaft - XLBOOV 1 Thruslwesher 5 5m gaarpinian a 4m gealpmion 2 2nd gear pinion 6 5m gear pinion 9 am gear pinion bush 3 oval): bush 10 lnpulshafl with integral 4 Spflned washer 7 3nd gcarplnlon lslgearpimon 2-64 Engine. clutch and transmission 31.3 carefully remove me circiip, laklng care not to distort it 3 Remove the circllp mm the shaft (see Illustrafinn). Slide Ills splined washer and the 5th gear pinion Off the snail, "allowed by the 5th gear splined bush and Splined washer (Sue illumllnns 31.2711, c, b and 5). ¢ Remove the circlip securing the 3rd gear pinion. then slide the pinion DH the snail (see illustrations 31.2317 and a), 5 Remove the clrclip securing the 4th gear pinion, Ihen slide the splined washer and the pinion art the sham reiiowen by the 4ih gear bush and me lhiusl washer (see Illustrations 31,256. d. c, b and B]. 8 The lsi gear pinion ls integral with the shaft. XL650V models 7 Remove iha (hrusi Washer erm the IE"- hand end 01 the shaft. (allowed by the 2nd gear pinipn (see illusmralicn). 3 Slide ihe thrusi washer nfl the shah, iollawed by the 5th gear pinion. the 5th gear splined bush and the splined washer. 9 Remove the circlip securing the 4th gear pinion, lhen slide me pinion of! ihe shaft. 10 Remove the Circllp securing the 3rd gear pinion, then slide the splineci washer and the pinion off (he shall. lollowed by the 3rd gear splined bush and lhe thrusl washer. 11 The 1si gear plnluii is integral with the shall. XRV'I50 models 12 Slide the 2nd gear pinion off ihe shall. inllowed by the 5th gear pinion. the 5th gear splined bush and the spiinsd washer (see illustralian). 13 Remove the circlip securing the 4th gear pinion, then slide the pinion ofl the shaft 14 Remove the circlip securing the 3rd gear pinion, then siids the splinsd washer and the pinion Dfl the snail, followed by the 3rd gear splined bush and the thrust washer. 15 The lsi gear pinion is inlegral with the shaft. input shaft inspection 16 Wash all oi the camponants in clean solvent and dry ihcrri on. 17 Check the gear teeth for cracking chipping. pitting and clher obvious wear or damage. Any pinion that is damaged as such musl be renewed. 31.7 Transmission lnpm shah - XLSSDV 1 Thrust washer 2 2nd gear pinion 3 507 year pinion 4 51h gear pinion bush 1B Inspect the dogs and the dog holes in the gears ror cracks, chips and excessive wear especially in the form of rounded edges. Make sure mating gears engage properly Renew the paired gears as a set ii necessary. 19 check for signs oi scoring or blueing on the pinicns, bushes and shaft. This cculd be caused by overheating due to inadequate 6 Circlip 5 Splined washer 7 4th gear pinion 8 31d gear plnion 9 3m gear Pll‘iifin bush 10 Input shaft Wim integral 15! year pinion lubrication. Check lhal all the all Dales and passages are clear. Renew any damaged pininns or bushes, 20 Check that each pinion moves ireeiy on the shaft or bush but without undue ireepla'y. Check (hat each bush moves freely on "I! shafl but without uneusireepiey Measurettie inlsrnal diameter oi all gears which run on Heme 31.12 Transmission input shalt - XRVTSO i 2nd gear pmlvli 2 5m gear pinion 3 5th gear pinion bush 4 Sp/lned wesner 5 Circlip 6 4m gear pinion 7 3rd gear pinion a 3m gear prnrcn bush 5 Thrust washer 10 input shaft with integral 1s! gear pinian Engine, clutch and transmission 2'65 bushes and the external diameter at the bushes which they run on (see illustrations]. Ii either component has Worn to or beyond Its service limit it must be replaced with a new one Using the above measurements calculate the gear»to»bush clearance and compare the results to the specifications listocl at the Beginning at the Chapter. ii the clearance exceeds the specified limit replace the relevant gear and bush as a pelt. Also measure the Internal diameters oi the plain bushes and their corresponding shall external diameter. and calculate the shaft-to-bush nlearanoe (see illustrations). The Specifications at the beginning or the Chapter list which components need to be measured. 21 The shah ls unlikely to sustain damage unless the engine has seized, placing an unusually high loading on the transmission. or the machine has covered a very high mileage Check the surface at the shaft. especially where a pinion turns on its and replace the siiait ll it has scored or picked up. or ii there are any cracks. Place the shell on V-blocke and check the runuut at the shaft centre using a dial gauge. Damage at any kind can only be cured by replacement. 22 Checkthe bearings tor play or roughness. and that lhey are a light ill in the crankcase (see illustration). Renew any peering that is worn. Qatar to Tools and Workshop Tips in the tolerance Section for more information on hearing checks and removal and Installation melhads. Apply clean engine oil to the bearings. 29 Check the oircllps and thrust washers and replace any that are bent or appear weakened or worn. It Is a good Idea to use new clrcllps is a matter of course. input shaft reassembly XLSWV models 24 During reassembly. apply molybdenum disulphide grease to the inside and outside at the bushes, and lubricate all the other components with engine all. Make sure fl'ie all notes In the shaft am aligned Wlm those on the bush or pinionv When installing the cltctips, do not expend the ends any lurther than is necessary. install the stamped circlips and washers so that their chamlered side faces In» pinion It secures (580 illus‘miml 31,2) 31.209 Measure the internal diameter at the gear . . . 31.2% . . . and the eflefnel diameter of Its bush 31.201: Measure the inlemal diameter Bf the hush . . . 25 Slide the thrust washer. 4th gear pinion bush and 4th gear pinion. with its dogs lacing away from the Integral isi gear. onto the let?- hand end oltl‘ie shall (see Illustrations). slide the splined washer onto the shaft and iii the 31.2le . . . and the enema" diameter of the shaft circilp, making sure it locales correctly in its groove [see tllustretioris). 26 Slide the 3rd year pinion onto the shaft wilh its selector iprk groove lacmg away lrorn the 4th gear pinion, and secure it with the 31.22 Check the lranslmsslon shaft bearings 31.253 Sllde the thrust washer . . . 31.251: .. . the 4th gear bush Ht 31.25:; . . . and Ihe 4th gear pinion onto the shaft 31.7511 Slide on the splined washer . . . 2-66 Engine, clutch and transmission 31.285 . . . then m the clrcllp. making sure It lucates In a: groove clrclip. makwng sure it locates correctly In Its groove (m Illustrations) 27 Slide the splined washer, the 5». gear pinion splinsd bush. the 5m gaar piniun with its 31.27: Sllda (he splimad washer . . . dogs facing Ins am gear panan. and (he spurned washer onto the shaft, than secure mam in place with (he circllp, making sure ll locales coneclly In its groove (see Illustrations). 3127b . . . the 5th gear splined bush . , . as Slide ma 2nd gear pinion emu me shaft. followed by the Illustrations). thrust washer (so: 31.279 . . . then m the clrcllp 31.271 . . . maklng sure It locates ourreafly 31.233 Slide the 2nd gear pinion onto the shaft . . . 31m . . . then fil ‘he thrust washer Engine, clutch and transmission 2-67 31 me The assemhlnd Input shaft should look like Ihls XL650V models 20 During rsassembly, apply molybdenum disulphide grease in the inside and ourside or tile bushes. and iubrlcale all the other components with engine all Make sure rne oil holes in the shaft are aligned with those on fine bush or pinion. when installing the circllps. do rial expand the ends any further man is necessary. lnslsil the stamped clrcllps and washers so lhat their chamfered side faces inspinion ll secures (see iiiusiraiion 31.7). 30 Slide the thrust washer, 3rd gear pinion push and 3rd gear pinion, wiin iis dogs lacing iiway lrorn the integral Ist gear, onlo the lefl- hand and 0! the shaft. Slide the Splined washer onto the shah and lit ma circllp, making sure it locates correctly in its groove. 3‘ Slide the 4th gear pinion onm lhs shafl Will’l lis Selector lork groove facing the 3rd gear pinion. and secure it with me eircllp, maklng sure ii locales correoily in Its groove. 32 Slide lhs Splinad washer, the 51h gear pinion splined bush. the 5th gear pinion wiln ii: dogs lasing the 3rd gear pinion. and the thrust washer onto the shaft. 33 Slide the 2nd gear pinion onto the shaft. followed by lhe ihrusl washer. XRV750 models :4 During reassembly. apply molybdenum disulphida grease lo the inside and outsida ol the bushes, and lubricate all the other components with engine oil. Make sure the all Wales in the shaft are aligned with lhnse on the bush or pinion. When installing the cerl'lpS. do not expand the ends any luriher man is necessary. lnsiall lhe sramped oircilps and washers so lhat their chamfared side faces me pinion it secures (see Illusrraiion 31.12). as Slide iris lhrusr washer, 3rd gesr pinion bush and 3rd gear pinion, wllh iis dogs lacing away from {he Integral ‘lst gear. onto the la!"- hand and DI the shaft. Slide the splined washar onto the shaft and lit the Circlipi making sure ii locates coneclly in ils groove, as Slide the 4th gear pinion onle the shalt with Its selector fork groove facing the 3rd gear pinion. and secure it min the circlip, making sure lr locales correcily in its groove. 37 Slide the splined washer. the 5th gear splined bush, the 5m gear pinion wrlrl Its dogs lacing the 3rd gear pinion. and the 2nd gear plnlon Dnta the shaft DMO the shan. Output shaft disassembly HAYNES Wlwn _dlséssembllna the transmission shafts, place the par-ls an a long rod or thread a Wire through them to keep them in order and facing tho proper flirtation. ' '* XLSOOV models 38 Remove the \hrust washer lrorl'l the right- harld and oi the shaft. lhen slide the is! gear pinion, the Isr gear pinion push and the thrust washer all the shall (see illustration and 31.55d. c, h and a). 39 Slide Ina 4|?! gear pinion off the shaft (See Illustration 31.54). 4U Remove the clrclip securing the 3rd gear pinion. ineri slide the splined washer. the and gear pinion. his 3rd gear pinion push. and me thrust washer a" the shall (see illustration :31 53d. :1. c, b and a). 41 Slide the 51h gear pinion oil iris Wide semion of the Shah (see illustration 31 .52). 42 Remove the lhrusl washer iram the IE“- hand and of the shaft. than slide the 2nd gaar pinion, the 2nd gear pinion bush. and the thrust washer ON the shaft (see illustrations 31.51d, c, o and is). XL650V and XRV750 models 43 Slide rile thrusl washer air the snail. ioilowed by line lsi gear pinion. lhe isl gear pinion bush and ma spllnsd washer (sea illustration overleaf). 44 Remove lire eirelip securing the 3rd gear pinion. lnen slide the pinion on me shaft. 45 Remove iris circlip securing the 4th gear pinion. rhen slide irie splihed washer, rne 4m gear pinion and ihe 4m gear pinion bush ofl lne shaft. 46 Slide rho tabbed lockwasher afl ins snarl, lnen turn the slolied splined washer to eilsel lrre splines and slide it oil the shaft. noilrig now may lit together 47 Side me 5m gear pinion off lrie shall. 45 Remove the elrsllp securing the 2nd gear pinion. rrren slide lhe spiined washer. irie pin‘lcln and its push ofl the shaft, Output shaft inspection 49 Reform Steps 16 id 23 above Output shaft reassembly XLGODV models 50 During reassembly, apply molybdenum disulphide grease to lire inside and outside or me pushes. and lubricale all the diner parts wiln engine oil. Make sure inc oil holes in «he shah are aligned wlrn mess on ma push or H2892? 31.38 Transmisslnn output shaft - XLGODV 1 Thrust washer 5 Circlip 9 2nd gear pinion bush 2 let gear pmion s Splined Washer 10 2nd gear pinion :i is: gear pinion bush 7 3rd gear pinion i 1 5th gear pinion x: «in gear pinion a 3rd gear pinion men 12 Ourpursnerr 2-68 Engine, clutch and iransmission 3151a Slidl th- thrust washer t . . pinion. When instaiiing ins circiips, do nu! expand the ends any iurther than is necessary. install the Siamped circlips and washers so that their chamfared side iaczi me pinion it securas (see lllustratlon 31.33). 51 slide the thmst washer onto "15 Ian-hand end 0' the shafl. ioiluwed by the 2nd gear bush, the 2nd gear pi on and the thrust washer (see lllustrafinna). 52 From the right-hand and, slide the 5m gear plnlon onta the wide section oi the shail with its selector fcwk groove iacing away mm the 2nd gear pinion (sue iiiustraflon), 53 Slide the thrust washer onto the rigm— 31‘43 Transmission output shaft -XL650V and xnwso ham, and of me “a", followed by (he an: i Thrust washer 5 Circlip 10 Slofled splinsd washer gear busl’h "‘6 3rd gear pinion with its dos 2 1st gearpmion 5 3rd gearpi'niun 11 5m gear pinion “0‘85 iacing ouii and "[6 swims; washer, and 3 1m gealpininn 7 4m gealplnion 12 2nd gserpini'on secure them In piece With the circiip. making bush 3 4m gearplninn bush is 2nd gearpinion bush We ii locates correctly In Its groove (m 4 Spiined washer 9 Tabbed iockwasnsr 14 Ourputshafr Illustration)- 31.51!) . . . the 2nd gear bush . . . 31.52 Slide the 5th gear pinion onto me 31.533 Slide the thrust washer . . . 31.53!) . . . the 3rd gear bush . . . wide section Dime shaft Engine, clutch and transmission 2-69 31.584: ... the 3rd gear pinion . .. 50 Shoe the 4th gear pinion unto the shah with its selector iork groove facing the 3rd gear pinion ioae illustration). 55 Slide the thrust washer onto the shaft. ioiioweo by the let gear pinion bush. the iat gear pinion and the thrust washer (see lltuetratlons). XL650V and XRVTSD models 56 During reassembly, apply engine oil to the mating surfaces at the shalt, pinions and bushes. When installing the clrollps. do not axoano the ends any turthsr than ls necessary. install the stamped clrcllps and washers so that their chamlered side faces the pinion it secures (see illustration 31.43). 57 Slide the 2nd gear pinion bush onto the shalt. ioliowoo by lha 2nd gear pinion and the spilrled washer. then iit the oiroiip. making sure It locates correctly in Its groove. 58 Slide [ha 5th gear pinion onto the shaft 31.5“ . v . and the splined washer onto the Shaft . . . with its selectorlark groove facing away from the 2nd gear pinion. 59 Slide the slotted splined washer onto the shaft and locate it in its groove. then turn it in the groove so that the spllnes on the washer align with the splines an the shaft and secure the washer in the groove. Slide the lockwasl‘ter ontD the shaft so that the tabs on the lnckwasl’ter locate into the slots in the outer rim at the spline washer. 60 Slide the 4th gear pinion bush onto the shaft. ioiiowecl by the 4th gear pinion with its dogs facing away from the 5th gear pinion, and the spllnsd washer. than fit the circlipi making sure It locates correctly in its groove in the shaft. 51 Slide the 3rd goar pinion onto the shaft with Its selector lork groove laclng the 4th gear pinion, then lit the oirclip, making sure it locates correctly in Its groove. 31.539 . . . the" fit the circllp 52 Slide the splined washer onto the shalt. followed by the let gear pinion bush arm the lst gear pinion. then lit the thrust washer onto the end of the shalt. 32 lnitialstart-up atterovemaui 1 Make sure the angina oil and coolant levets one oorreci (see Daily (pro-ride) checks). Make sure there is luei in the tank. 2 Turn the engine klll switch m the ON position and Shllt the gearbox Into neutral. Turn the ignition 0N. Set the choke enough to encourage the bike to start. but not so much as to allow it to race. 3 Start the engine and allow It to run at a moderately test idle until it reachas operating temperature. 31.55: ruthe 1:1 gurplnlon bush . .. 31.55:: . . . and the lst gear pinion onto the sham.” 31.55:! . . . then fitmemrust washer 70 Engine. clutch and transmission Warning: If the oil pressure A warning light doesn’t 90 oil, or it comes on while the engine Is running, slop the engine immediately. 4 Check caielully for all and coolant leaks and make sure [he transmisslcn and camels especially the brakes, function pmperly before road testing lhe machlne. Refer to Section 33 for the recommended running-In procedures 5 Upon completion of the road test. and after the engine has cooled down completely, recheck the valve clearances (sea cnapler l) and check me engine all and conlan! levels [see Dal/y (Wendel Checks). 3 Recommended running-in procedure 1 Treat the machlne gently for (he first few mlles to make Sure all has circulated mrougnom the engine am! any new pans lnstallsd have started m seal, 2 Even greater care is necessary ll new pistons/rings have been fitted or the cyllnders rebored. and the bike wlll have (cl be lun In as when new. This means greaier use oi me transmission and a resiralning hand on me (hmflla until al least 600 rrllles (‘DOD Km) have been covered. There's no point in keeplng In any set speed limit » me main ldea l5 lo keep 7mm labouring me engine and to gradually increase performance up to (he 600 mile [1000 km) marks Experience lS the best guide, since it's easy to tell when an engine is running (reely‘ 3 If a Iubilcallon lallurs ls suspecled. stop me engine immediately and try (0 lind the cause. ll an engine is run withqu oil. even lor ashan period of lime. severe damage will occur. Chapter 3 Cooling system 3-1 Contents Coolant hoses and unions — removal and lristallatian ............ Cooling system draining. flushing and refilling .see Chapter 1 Coolant level check . , l l .......... .see Daily (pre~rldE) checks General Information ......... . 1 Coalaiil reservoir , removal and lnstailatlun .............. Radiators v removal and insiallalion . G Coalani temperature gauge and senders check and replacement . Radialor pressure cap— check ,,,,,, r 2 Cwling [an and len switch check and replacement. Tharmusiai and housing , renmval. check and insiaiiaiion . 5 Coming sysram checks .7 l ............ Water pump check. removal and instaiiaiion r . . .. . V . , V 7 Degrees of difficulty Emy, suitablefor JV Faifly easy,suitable 3% Fairy difficult. 3N Difficult, suitablefor K Very difficult, k nwioawiih little {X for beginner wrm §j suiiableiorcompeiem Q experienced DIY \ suilableiar expert DIY \ experience she some experierxz 3t DlY medianic mean-mic § or pitiiessional § Specmcations Coolant Mixture type and capacity . . see chapter 1 Cooling fan switch Switch closes [lari om . Switch opens flan OFF) Coolant temperature sander XL mudels Resistance @ 50=C . . Resistance @ Gum Resistance @ 120“C r XRV models Resistance 4? 50C . . Reslsiance @ 100°C Thermostat Opening ismpeiaiure . Fully open . Valve lil‘l Radiator Cap valve npenlng pressure XLGOUV and XLBSOV mndels ,,,,,, , XHVTSDi km N (1990 to 1392) models , )(RWSIH3 models onward (1993-on) . Torque settings oaaiani temperature sender . Cabling fan blade rim r l Cooling fan motor nuts . Cooling fan switch ..... Radiator mounting bolls Thermostat bails ,,,,,,, 93 (a 102%} 93 m 97“!) ‘l 5‘ ohms 52 ohms 15 ohms lab in 180 ohms 25 lo 30 ohms 30 m 84 “C 95°C 8 mm (min) mo in psi[0.9m1.25 Bar) 1410 (3 psl (0.95m 1‘25 Ea") lsm 21 psi (1.1 (014 Bar) 10Nm 3Nm 5Nm 18 M11 10 Nm 1UNm 3-2 Cooling system 3.33 Fan wiring connector — XLEDOV 1 General information The cooling system uses a water/entitreaze coolant to carry away excess heat item the engine and maintain as constant a temperature as possible. Each cylinder is surrounded by e water iacket item which the heated CUDlaI’lt Is circulated by ll'leri'IWOV syphorilc ection ln conjunctlon with a water pump. which is driven by the oil pump. The hot coolant passes upwards to the thermostat and through to the radiator The coolant then flows down across the cure of the radiator. than to the water pump and back to the engine where the cycle is repeated. A thermostat is iittad in the system to prevent the coolant flowing through the radiator when the anglrie is cold. literature accelerating the speed at which the engine reaches normal operating temperature. A coolant temperature sender mounted in the thermostat housing transmits intermatlort to the temperature gauge on the instrument panel. A cooling tan is titled to the back 01 the rlgh’t»hand radiator to aid coollng in extreme conditions by drawing extra air through: a marrnostatically—cnntrnlled Swltcl'l fitted to the radiator triggers the operation or the tan motor. The complete cooling system is partially sealecl and pressurised. the pressure being controlled by a valve contained in the spring- loaded radiator cap. By Dressurising the coolant the boiling point is raised. preventing premature Duiiing in adverse cond ions, The overflow pipe from the system is connected to a reservoir into which excess coolant is expelled under pressure. The discharged coolant automatically returns to the radlator by the vacuum created when the engine cools. Warning: Do not remove the A pressure cap from the radiator when the engine is hot. Scalding not coolant and steam may be blown out under pressure, which could cause serious injury. When in. engine has cooled. place a thick rag. like a towel, over tire prissure cop.- slowly rotate Ms cap anti-clockwise to the first slap. nus procedure allows any residual pressure to escape. When the steam has XL659V stopped escaping, press down on the cap while turning it anti-clockwise and remove it Caution: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skln or painted surfaces or the motorcycle l-rinse on any spills immediately with plenty of watch Aniirrcazc is higrriy toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container or in puddles on the floor: children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell and may drink lit Check with the local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Many communities will have collection centres which will see that antifreeze is disposed of safeiyt Caution: At all times use the specified type or antifreeze, and always mix it with distilled water In the correct proportion. The anfifreaze canLlins carroslan inhibitors which are essential to avoid damage to tile cooling system. A laclr or these inhibitors could lead to a build-up of cams/'0" which would block the coolant passages, resulting in overheating and severe engine damage. Distilled Water must be used as opposed to tap water to avoid n build-up or scale which would also block the passages. 2 Radiator pressure cap- ' 33‘s check ‘\\ ‘K 1 li problems such as overheating or loss oi coolant occur. check the entire system as described ln Chapter 1. The radiator cap opening pressure should be checked by a (arrowed) Honda dealer with the special tester requimfl to do thajob. It the cap is detective. replaceii with a new one, 3 Cooling tan and fan swltch — § check and replacement \ ‘ w‘.’ Cooling fan Check 1 it the engine Is overheating and the coulliig fan isn't coming on. first check the cooling is! circuit luse (see Chapter 9). it the ruse is gooti check the tan switch as described below. 2 It the tan does not come on (and the tan switch is good]. the fault lies in either tin cooling fan mdtdr or the relevant wlilng. TN all the wiring and connections as described ill Chapter 9. following the relevant Wiring Diagram. Disconnect the tan wilirig connector and check that there is battery voltage at the black/blue or blue/black (according to model] wire terminal on the loom side at the connector with the ignition ON. ll there is In voltage, check the wiring. a To test the cenlltrg iari motor. on stuov and XRWBO models remove the right-hand iairrng side panel. and on XLesuv model. remove the iairlng (see Chapter 8). Disconnect the lan wiring Connector and tha fart switch wtrtng connector (see illustrations). Using a 12 volt battery and two jumper wires with suitable connectors. connect the battery positive [4) lead to the black/blue or blue/black (according to model) wtre terminal on the tan side at the Wiring connector. and the battery negative H lead to the tan switch wiring connector, Ont: connected the fan should operate. It It does not. and the wiring Is all good. then the tail motor is raulty. individual components are available ior thB Ian assembly. Replacement Warning: The engine must I» A completely cool before carrying out till: procedure 4 Remove the Section at. rightshand 5 Disconnect the wiring connector from tits ran switch (see illustration). Free the wiring irom any clips. radiator tsec Cooling system 303 THERMOMETER 3.6 . . . then undo the bolts (arrawed) and remove the ten assembly I Undo the bolts securing the fan assembly lathe radiator. noting that one of them also secures the earth (ground) wire [see Illustration). 7 Unscrew the tan blade nut and remove the blade. timing how it locates. Undo the liuts on itieirant or the tan rricitor securing it in the shroud and separate them. Ilnstfillatlorl is the reverse or removal. Apply a suitable non-permanent thread locking compound the tan blade nut and tighten it to he torque setting specified at the beginning Millie Chapter. Arse lighten the ran motor nuts to the specified torque. Do not target to Iltach the earth (ground) cable to the raaiatar when titling the fan assembly bolts 9 Install the radiator (see Section 6). Cooling fan switch Check ti) ii the engine is overheating and the cooling tan isn't CDrTilnu on. first check the cooling tan circuit tuse (see Chapter 9), it the lilse la blown, check the fan circuit for a short hearth (see the Wiring diagrams at the end or his book) II II lite luse Is good, on XLEUDV and XRWSD models remove the rightrrland fairing side renal. and on XLGSOV models remove the hiring [see Chapter 8). Disconnect the wiring manor train the fan switch on the radiator [see illustration stab). Using a iurnper wire ii necessary. connect the wire to earth (ground). inril the Ignition switch DNt The ten should come on. If it does. the fan switch is detective arid must be replaced with a new one If it lines not mine on, chmk for battery voltage at Liteswitch wiring connector with the ignition UN. If voltage is present. tat the ten motor itseil (see above). It there is no voltage. check his Wiring and connectors tor a fault or break. t2 II the fan is on the Whole time. disconnect rewiring cennectnr. The tan should stop. ii it does. the switch is detective and must be replaced With a new one. ii It doesn't. check the wiring between the Switch and the Ian for a short to earth, and the tan Itseitt 13 it the ten works but is suspected at cutting In at the wrong temperature, a more comprehensive test of the switch can be made as tollows. 14 Remove the switch (see Steps is and i7lr Fill a small heatproot container with coolant and piece it on a stove. Connect the positive (s) probe of an nhrrirneter to the terminal or the SWltch and the negative (—i probe to the switch body. and using same wire or other suppon suspend the switch in the coolant so that just the sensing portion and the threads are submerged [see illustration). Also place a thermometer capable at reading temperatures uci to 110°C in the coolant so that Its bulb IS close to the switch. Note: Nune of the components should be allowed to directly touch the OOHtEiDBL 15 Initially the ohmrnster reading should be very high Indicating that the switch is open (Om. Heat the coolant. stirring it gently. Warning: This must be done my A carefully to avoid the risk at pelsonalr’niury. When the temperature reaches around 98 to i02”G the meter reading should drop to around zero ohms. indicating that the switch has closed (ON). Now turn the heat off. As the temperature tails below 53 in 97°C the meter reading should show infinite (very high) resistance. indicating that the switch has opened (OFF). It the meter readings obtained are different. or they are obtained at different temperatures. then the switch is tauity and must be replaced with a new one. Replacement Warning: The engine must be A campieteiy cool tutors carrying out this procedure. is Drain the cooling system [see Chapter 1). 17 Disconnect the wiring connector Horn the tan switch on the righlrhand rediaxcr (see illustration 3.31)). Unscrew the SWltCh 3.14 Coolingran switch testing senup and withdraw it train the radiator. Discard the O-ring as a new one must be used. 18 Install the switch using a new 0~ring and some surtebie sealant on the upper portinn of the threads. and tighten ii to the torque setting specified at the beginning or the Chapter. Take care not re uvertighten the switch as the radiator could be damaged. 19 Reconnect the switch wrrlng and refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 4 Content temperature gauge and sender - check and replacement § Coolant temperature gauge Check 1 The circuit consists oi the sender mounted In the thermostat housing and the gauge assembly muunted In the Instrument cluster. It the system maltunctions first attack the fuse. 2 ii the gauge is networking. remove the iual tank (see Chapter 4] and access the sender according the appropriate model. Note that on XLGDDV and XHWSO models. you may be able to access the sender from the side (see Illustration). Otherwise access it from the top as lollows: 4.23 Coolant temperature sender (arrowed) - XRV madel shown 3-4 Cooling system 4.2!: Remove the trim panel . . . C 0n XLSODV and XHVVSU-L IO N “990 to l992 ) models move as“ the boot containing the wiring connectors as required I On XRWSU-F‘ models onward [lSSG-on) remove the air filter housing (see Chapter 4). lhen disconnect all the wiring connectors m the orackst above the thermosml housing and draw the connectors out at the bracket. .On XLGSOV models remove the left-hand trim Panel to access the smder (see illustrationsl 3 Disconnect the wiring connector lrom the sender and turn the ignition switch ON (see illustration 4.2 or c). The temperature gauge needle should he on the ‘C’ on the gauge. Using a lumner wire attached to the wiring connector terminal, earth the sender wire on the engine a the needle should swing immediately over to the 'H‘ on the gauge. lr the needle moves as described above the gauge is provsn good, and the Sender could no iaulty 7 check it as described bEiOw (stops 8 lo 12). Caution: Do not earth the wire for any longer than ls necessary to take the reading, or the gauge may be damaged. 4 It the needle movement is still laulty, or it It does not move at all. the lault lies in the wiring or the gauge ilseli. Remove the fairing (see Chapter 3) and disconnect the instrument Cluster wiring cunneclorls). 5 Check for continuity in the green/blue wire between the temperature sender and the temperature gauge wiring connector. ii there is no continuity, locate the break in tho wire and repair it or replace it with a new one. Also check lor battery voltage at the sender end 01 the wire with the ignition ON. ir voltage is presenl. the gauge IS laulty and rnusl be replaced With a new one (see Chapter 9), 6 II no voltage is present, check iar battery voltage between the black (Jr) and green or green/black l») (according to model - refer to the Wiring Diagrams at the and or Chapler a) wire terminals on the instrument cluster wiring connectnris) with the ignllinn 0N. ll voltage is present, replace the gauge wiih a new one (see Chapter 9). ll there is no voltage check the black and green or green/black wires lor continuity between the lusebox and earth (ground) respectively, relarring to the Wiring Diagrams at the end 01 Chapter 9‘ Replacement 1 See Chapter 9. Coolant temperature sender Check 8 if the gauge is not Working In normal use but the above checks have provan it to be good, access the sender as described in Step 2‘ 9 Drain the cooling system {see Chapter 1). 10 Remove the sender (see Steps 13 and 14 below). 11 Fill a small heelprool container with coolant and place it on a stove. Using an anmmeter. connect the positive (+) probe of the meter to the lermlnai on the sender. and the negatlve (—l probe to the body of the sender. using some wire or other support suspend the sender in the Coolant so that just the sensing head and [he threads are submerged. with the head a minimum 01 40 mm above the bottom Oi the container. Also place a thermometer capable of reading temperatures up to 130%: in lhs water so that its bulb Is close to the sender (see illustration 3.14) Note: None of the components should be allowed in directly touch the Container. 12 Begin to heat the coolant. stirring it gently. Warning: This must be done very carefully to avold the risk a! personal ln/uly. Refer lo the Specifications at the beglnning of the Chapter and check the temperatures at which resistance readings should be taken lor your model. When the temperature reaches the lirst checkpoint. turn lhe heat down and maintain the temperature steady tor three minutes. The meter reading should be as specified at the beginning oi the Chapter. Turn the heal on again, When the temperature reaches the next Cllacxpalrlt. again turn the . to access the thermostm housing and temperature sender (arrowed) heat down and maintain it let three minutes, The meter reading should again be as specified at the beginning of the Chapter. Take a third reading if required according in you model. ii the meter readings obtained arl dilierenl by a margin of 10% or more. than the sender is faulty and must be replaced with I new nne. Replacement Warning: The engine must b. A completely anal bulore canylng out this pmcodun. 13 The sender is mounted in the thermosial housing. Access the sender as described In Step 2. 14 Disconnect the sender wiring connector. Unscrew the sender and remove It lrom lhfl' thermostat housing. 15 Apply a smear Ol sealant to the threads ii the new sander. making sure none gets ontlle head. Install the sender and tighten II to [in torque setting specified at the beginning oi the Chapter. Connect the sender wiring. 16 Install the fuel tank and any other removed parts according to your model and method (see Chapter A). neiill li'le cooling system (see Chapter 1). a 6 Thermastat and housino — removal, check and installation Removal Note: The complele thermostat housing all be removed without removing the thermoshl l'tsell A completely cool before carrying our tlils procadunet 1 The thermostat Is automatic in operation and should give many years sewice without requiring attention in the event cl a ialiuie. the valve will probably jam open. in which case the Engine will lake much longer than Warning: The engine must in 5.8a On XLSDCN models move the wi 3» access the thermos1at housing iarrowod) normal to warm up Conversely. If the valve Jarvis shut. the coolani Will be unable to lfimulale and the engine will overheat Neither condition is acceptable. and the fault must be investigated promptly, )(L600V and XRV750 models 2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter I). Retrieve the luel tank (see Chapter 4). {Ion XLGUOV and XFlV750-L to N (1990 to 992 models] move aside the boot Conlalnlng inc Wiring connectors as required (see Illustration). On XRV750»P models onward (tags-on) remove the air tiller housing (see Chapter 4). than disconnect all the wiring 5.3a . . . to access the thermostat housing (BUWBd) connectors in the bracket abuve the thermostat housing and draw them out at the bracket (see illustrations). 4 To remove the thermostat. slacken the clamps securing the coolant hoses to me thermostat cover arid detach the hoses (see illustration). Unscrew the bolt securing the cover to the frame. Unscrew lhe twa bolts securing the cover to the housing and separate it item the housing (see illustration). Discard the o-rlng as a new one must be used. Withdraw the thermostat, noting the orientation of the bleed hole and how it lits (see Illustration). 5 To remove the thermosiat housing, discnnnect the coolant temperature sender wiring connector (see illustration 4.2a). Slackan the clamps securing all the hoses to the cover and housing and detach them. noting which fits where (see Illustration 5.48). Unscrew the bolt securing the cover to the frame and remove the housing. XL650V models 5 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1), Remove the luel tank [see Chapter 4i, Remove the left-hand trim panel in access the thermostat housing (see illustrations 42b and c). 7 To remove the thermostat. disconnect the coolant temperature sender wiring connector 548 Slanken the clamps and detach the hoses, than unscrew the bolts . . . 5.4h , a . remove the cover. . . 53h 0n XRV750 models di connectnrs (arrowed) . . . l ' ,‘Vv sconnect and withdraw the wiring (see Illustration 4.20). Unscrew the twn bolts securing the cover to the housrng. noting how they also secure it to the mounting bracket and separate the cover and housing. Discard the O-rlng as a new one must be used. Withdraw the thermuslal. noting how it (its. 8 To remove the thermostat houslng. disconnect the coolant temperature sender Wirlrig connector (see illustration 4.21:). Slackan the clamps securing all the hoses to the cover and housing and detach them, rimlng which llts where. Unscrew the bolt secutlng [he housing bracket to the frame and remove the housrng along with the bracket. Check 9 Examine the thermostat vlsually Deiure carrying out the test. ll it remains in the open position at room temperature. it should be replaced with a new one. ii: Suspend the thermostat my a piece or wire in a container or cold water. Place a thermometer capable cl reacting temperatures up to 110“) in the water so that the bulb is close to the thermostat (see illustration). Heat the water, noting the temperature when the thermostat opens, and compare me result with the Specifications given at the beginning of the Chapter, Also check the amount the valve opens after it has been heated for a few 5-6 Cooling system THERMOMETEH THERMOSTAT %‘ 5.10 Thefmnsmt tasting sel-un minutes and compare the measurement to the Specifications. ll the readings obtained differ from those given. the thermostat Is faulty and must be replaced with a new one, 11 In the evenl of thermostat failure. as an emergency measure only, It can be removed and the machine used without ll (thls IS better than leaving a permanently closed thermostat in. but it it Is permanently open. you might as well leave It In). Note: Take care when stoning the engine from cold as it will take much longer than usual to warm up. Ensure that a new unit is installed as soon as possible. Installation 12 Installation is the reverse at removal. noting the following: .Fit the thermostat with the bleed hole orientated as noted on removal. and make sure it locates correctly In the groove in the housing (see Illustration 5.4a]. a . L . 5.5b . . . and remove the radiator 0 Fit a new O-ring Into the groove in the cover. using a out: or grease to keep it in place If required (so. intimation). mm the cover and mounting halts securely. 0 Make sure all hoses are pushed tully onto their unions and secured by the clamps. 0 Do not lorgat to connect the temperature sender wiring connector (see illustration fine or r: t O Refill the cooling system (see Chapter I), Hadlatmsu ‘ remaval and'installattan Removal Wamlrry: The engine must b: A completely cool before carrying out this procedure. Note: I! the radiators are being removed as part or the engine removal procedme, detach the hoses from their unions on the engine rather than on the radiators and remove the art/aims with the noses attached to If. Note the routing a! the hoses. 1 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1]. 2 Remove the fuel tank {sea Chapter 4]. On XLSEOV models remove the trim panel (5“ illustration 4m). 3 When removing the right-hand radiator. disconnect the iarl wiring Connector (see illustratlorl 3.3: or b]. 4 Slacken the clamps securing all the hoses to the radiator and detach them. rioting which tits where (sea llhistratlons). A 6.4!: . . . and the Ian-hand radiator - XLBDW shown 6.5!: On KEV/50 models move the rubber flap aside to acces the bolts 5.12 Fit a flaw O-rlne onto the cover 5 Support the radiator and unscrew It: mounting halts, than remove the radiator, noting how It tits (see Illustrations]. Oii XHWSO models. you will have to move a emit rubber flap aside to access the bolts. and It required (for example it you are removing tho engine) release the front stone guard from its mounts and remove it, noting how it he (no illustration). Nate the arrangement of the collars and rubber grommets in the radiator mounts. 6 It necessary, remove the cooling fan and its switch from the radiator (see Section 3). Remove the shroud/protective grill from the front at the radiator. Check the radiator lat signs or damage and clear any dirt or debris that might obstruct air llow and inhibit cooling. If the radialorflns are badly damaged or broken the radiator must be replaced wltli a new one. Also check the rubber mounting grommets. and renew man If necessary (sea Illustration). 8.6 Check the condition a! the 1'th grommets Cooling system 3-7 lnltalla tion 1 Installation is the reverse of removal. noting lhe tollowlng, lMake sure the collars and washers are correctly installed with the mounting butts. IMake sure that the ten wiring is oerreetiy connected, theme the coolant hoses are in good condition (see Chapter 1). and are securely retained by their clamps. using new ones it necessary. .0" completion refill the coollng system as dumbed in Chapter 1. 1 Water ump- § l. checkgemoveland Insulation § Check 1 The water pump is located on the lower left-hand side at the engine. Visually check the area around the pump tor signs of leakage. 1 To prevent leakage of water train the wooing system to the lubrication system and vtoe verse, two seals are titted on the pump shaft. on the bottom or the pump housing here is also a drain hole (see illustration), it hither seal falls, the drain allows the coolant or site escape and prevents them mixing. you llllll have to remove the belly pan to see the min hole (see Chapter at a The seal on the water pump side is of the mechanical type which bears on the rear lace at the impellerl The second seal. which is mounted behind the mechanical seal, Is at the lion-ital teathered lip type. If Dn Inspectlon the ash shows signs of leakage, remove the Wine and replace it with a new one - it comes as an assembly. 7.2 Check the drill! hole (snowed) for signs of leakage Removal 4 Drain the coolant and the engine all (see Chapter I). On XHV750 models. detach the oil cooler hoses from the oil distributor (see Chapter 2). 5 To remove the pump cover for inspection of the Impeller. an XL models slacken the clamp securing the coolant hose to the covet and detach the hose (see illustrationl On XRV models unscrew the bolt securing the pipe to the cover and detach the pipe. Diseem its O-ring. 6 Unscrew the four bolts and remove the cover, noting any wiring guide (see illustration). Remove the Ovrlng ircm the cover or pump and discard It as a new one must be used. Note the locating dowels and remove them it they are loose. 1 Wiggle the water pump impeller hack~and~ forth and in-and-aut It there ls excessive movement, replace the pump with a new one. Also check tor corrosion or a buildup oi scale in the pump body and clean or replace the pump as necessary. it you now need to remove the pump body. carefully draw it from the crankcase, noting hew It tits (see 7.5 Slatkan the clamp (avowed) and detach the cover hos: illustration]. It may be necessary to lever it out to overcome the 0»ring on the pump body. Remove the O-rlng from the rear of the pump body and discard it as a new one must be used (see Illustration 1‘03). 8 To remove the pump assembly as a whole. on XL models slacken the clamps securing the coolant hoses to the pump cover and body and detach the hoses, noting which tits where (see illustration 7.5). On XFIV750 models. unscrew the bolt securing the pipe lo the cover and detach the pipe. then slacken the clamp Securing the coolant hose to the body and detach the hose Discard the pipe O—flng. e Unscrew the two pump mauntlng bolts and carefully draw the pump irom the crankcase. hating how it flts (see Illustration 75). It may be necessary to lever it out to overcome the o-rlrig on the pump body, Remove the o-ring from the rear of the pump body and discard It as a new one must be used (see Illustration nae). Installation 10 Installation ls the reverse at removal. 1.3 Water pump cover bofls [A and B) and mounting bolts [3) 7.7 Draw the pump out or the engine 3-8 Cooling system 7.10s Fit 5 new O-ring ontn the pump body . Apply a smear ul grease to the new pump body Orring and m it into the groove in the body (see illustrationll Slide the pump into the crankcase. aligning the slot in the impeller shaft with the lab on the oil pump shah (see Illustration). Fit the coolant nose unto the pump noisy and secure It with the clamp. It the cover was not removed. install the mounting bolts anti lighten them securely. 11 Smear the new cover O-rlng with grease and lit it into its groove in the pump. than fit the cover onto the pump [see Illustration). Install the bolts and tighten them securely. 12 On XL models, lit the coolant hose onto the pump cover and secure it With the clamp [see Illustration 75). On XRV models. lit the pipe into the cover using a new o-ring and tighten the bolt securely. 13 Use a new sealing washer on the drain halt. nelill the cooling system (see Chapter ll. 8 Cunlantreservnir—, removal and installation fZ/WZ? Removal XLGDOV models I The coolant reservulr is located behind the engine on the leflrhand side. Remove the rear shock absorber to access it (see Chapter 8). 2 Note how the reservoir is located and how the Various hoses and cables are routed around it before removmg il. Detach the 7.1m: . . . than Install the pump. aligning the slot In the shalt (A) with the tab on the oil pump shalt (a) hoses. noting which fits where. Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the reservoir. then drain It into a suitable container. XLGEOV models 3 The coolant reservoir is located behind the angina, Remove the side panels (see Chapter 8). the battery and its box (see Chapter 9). and the rear cylinder ignition coll (see Chapter 5). 4 Place a sultable container for catching the coolant below the reservoir Remove the reservoir Cap. Detach the radiator averllow hose from the helium oi the reservoir and allow it to drain into the container. 5 Detach the breather hose frnrn the top of the reservoir. Unscrew the reservoir mounting bolt and manoeuvre the reservoir out, noting how the peg on the bottom locates in tha grommet. XRWEO models 6 Remove the right-hand side panel (see Chapter at 7 Place a suitable container for catching the coolant below the reservoir. Remove the reservoir cap. Detach the radiator overllow hose lrcm \he bottom or the reservoir and allow it to drain into the container [see illustration). ll Detach the breather hnsa from the top of the reservoir, Unscrew the reservoir mounting bolts and remove the reservair. Installation 9 Installation is the reverse at removal. On completion refill the reservoir (see Daily wre- ride) checks). 8.7 Reservoir hoses (A) and mounting bolts (Bl 9.4 Coolant inlst union (arrownd) — XLGDOV 7.11 Fit a new £3»an then install the cover 9 Coolant hoses and unions - removal'and installation Removal 1 Before removing a hose. drain the coolant (see Chapter 1). 2 Use a screwdriver to slacken the larger. hole hose clamps. than slide them back alullw the hose and clear or the union spigut. Tim smaller-bare hoses are secured by spring clamps which can be expanded by squeezing their ears together with pliers Caution: The radiator unions are fragile. Do not use sxcasslve force when attemprllw to remove the hoses. 3 it a hose proves stubborn. release it by rotating It on its union before working It all. ll all else falls. out the hose with a sharp knile. Whilst this means replacing the hose. ii is preferable to buying a new radiation 4 The inlet and cullsl unions to the cyllndels and cylinder heads can be removed by unscrewing their bolt(s) (see illustration). Ila “man is removed. its D-ring must be replaced with a new one Installation 5 Slide the Clamps Onto the hose and than work the hose on to its union. mire hose ls dmcumrrpualri on, Its unlon, softer], lt 93‘ snaking It In very lint Winn. oraltematlvenr slime scam wall! on 0'! union can be used as it lubricant a Rotate the hose on its unions ta settle it in position heiore sliding the clamps into placi and tightening them securely. 1 it an inlet or outlet union lo the engine has been removed. install it using a new O—rlnq, smeared with a dab of grease to hold ltilt place it necsssary. Install the union and tighten the Doltls) securely. Chapter 4 4-1 Fuel and exhaust systems Contents All lllter check and renewal ........ Fuel level Indicator circuil~ Check and replacement ......... . 16 Alrlllier/duot housing ~ removal and inst Iallfln . Fuel pump — check. removal and installation 1x11117513 models). 15 Air/lust mixture adjustment 7 general information . Fuel system check ......... see 'Chapter 1 carburettor overhaul general lntorrnatlon . Fuel lank cleaning and repair . 3 Carourettor synchronisation Fuel tank and tap - removal and Installation. . 2 Carourettors — disassembly. cleaning and inspection 9 General inlormation and precautions , . 1 Carourattors — reassembly and float height check 10 Idle speed check .............. see Chapter 1 Camurettorse removal and installation 7 Pulse secondary air lPAlR) system— XLesnv models ........ 17 Calhurettnrs separation and lolningV l . . 9 Throttle and choke eaole check ,see Chapter 1 Catalytlc converter - geneml inlormation leesuv models) , . 14 Throttle cables , removal and installation. ........ 11 Choke table — removal and installation . . Throttle position sensor ,,,,,,,,,,,, see Chapter 5 Exhaust system — lemoval and Installation 1 Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for Fflifly easy, suitable 3s) FERN dlfiicll'. 3% Diffiwll, suitable for $V arydilfitmll, § "wide with little for beginnerwiltl é§ suitable for competent § experienced DlY \ suitable foreman DIY \\ melee ;\ some experience § DIY mechanic § rrlecllan‘lc § or (Jimmie! § SpeCIflcatlons Fuel Grade .......................... Unleaded, minimum 91 RON mesearch Octane Number] Fuel lank capaclly XLsnov models 18 litres XLESDV models. . . 19.5 litres xnwsu Llo N (1990 to 1992) models 24 litres xnwso- P models onward ll993-on) 23 litres Fuel tank reserve capacity XLSDDV models 35 lltres XLESUV models. 3.8 lltres XFleo Lte N (1990 to 1992) models warning light system XRV750 P models onward (1993- all}. 5,1 lltres Carburettor adjustments l’llot screw setting llurns out) XLGUOV-H and J (1987 and 1988) models 2 X XLfiDUV»K to P ll 999 to 1993) models 2 ll XLBDOVvFl lo‘r (1994 to 1996) models . l “A stoov-v to x (I997 to 1999) models . 2 % thssov models 9 . . , , , , 3 wasorl. to N 11 o 1992) models . 2 x XRWSD-P to s (1993 to 1995) models V 2 x XRWSUvT models onward 11 SSS-on) 2 1t Float height XLEODV XLSSOV, XRV750- L to N (1990 (a 1992) models 710 mm 10111750 F' models onward (1993 on) ..... 13.7 mm Idle speed ...... _ _ see Chapter 1 Synchmnlsaliun vacuum range V V see Chamet 1 4-2 Fuel and exhaust systems Jet sizes Pilot jet XLGUUV and XLGSOV models XFW7507L in N (1990 to 1992) models . XRV750~P models onward liBQS-Ori) . . Main iel KLGUUV~H10 Fl (1987 to 1995) models Front syilncisr . , . , near cylinder . . . . XLGOOV-T ( 1996) models Frnnl cylinder . . . . rim cylinder . . XLSUDV- V to X (1997 h: 1999) models Front Cylinder . Rear cylinder. XLBSDV models Front cylinder ,,,,,, Rear cylinder ..... xnwso-L to N (1990 to 1992) models I'ront cylinder .t.. Rear cylinder V . . XHV750 P10 8 "993 to 199a) models From cylinder Rear cylinder AAAAA xnv750- r models onwards 0996- on) Front cylinder Rear cylinder ..... ......... ,... ., 38 123 130 118 120 1.15 118 132 132 113 122 118 120 115 115 Fuel gauge sender unit— XL650V models Sendai urilt reststanoe Full position . . , . Emmy posmnn Torque settings Exhaust system nownpips nuts Clamp bolts. Fuel level sander unit nuts— XLESOV models Fuel level sensor rXHV750 L to N (1990 \o 1992) models .......... Fuel tap nut XLEOOV models . , XLGSDV models . XF'W750‘L to N “990 to 5992] models , XRV750-F models onward USES-on) t . 9.3 ohms 92.3 Elth 27 Nm 21 Nm 7 Min 23 Nm 40 Nm 27 Nm 23 Nrn 34 Nm 1 General lnfonnation and precautions General information The luel system canalsts ml the luel tank, the fuel tapls) and straineris). the carburettors. luel hoses and oomrol cables. and on XRWSD models the fuel pump and ln-llne lllter. XLGOOV models The fuel tap Is semi-automatic in that It has bum a manually operated valve and a vacuum operated valve, and has an integral strainer inalde lhe fuel tank. The manual valve need only be closed (FUEL OFF) when the luel tank is removed. Willi tits manual valve open (on ur HES). the aulomatic valve is opened by a vacuum acting on a diaphragm. the vacuum being created when the engine ls turned. ii the manual valve Is closed. the diaphragm valve will not bypass It when the engine is turned. The reserve (RES) position on the luel lap allows a law mlles to be covered after the main tank has run out and serves as a low iuel level wamlng. The carouratinrs are Ksihin CV types. For cold starting a choke level mounted on the lelHinnd handlebar and connected by a cable. controls an enrichment circuit In each carburettor. Air is drawn into the carburettor: via an air filler housed under the seat. The exhaust system Is a two-into-orle design. XL85OV mudels The iual lap has an automatic vacuum operated valve with an integral strainer Inside the fuel tank. The valve is opened by a vacuum acting on a diaphragm. the vacuum being created when the engine is turned. There Is no manual facility on the tap There is also no reserve facility, but a level sensor inside the tank transmits lo a fuel gauge in the instrument cluster, The carburettors are Ksihin CV types. For curd starting. a choke lever mounted on Illa loft-hand handlebar and connected by a cable. controls an enrichmsm circuit In each carburettor. Air is drawn into the carburettor: via an air filter housed under the luel tank. The exhaust system is a two-lnta-ona design. XRV750 models The XRV'ISU'L m N (1990 [0 1992) mud!!! have two luel taps, and F models onwards [i993~0n) have one tap. Each lap is of till gravity reed type with an integral strainer inside the luel link The taps have a manually operated valva which need only be closed (OFF) when the lug! tank is removed. when the manual valve is open. lual flow is created by a pump which is commlled by a relay that actuate; the pump circuit when the engine is turned. If the manual valve is closed. fuel will not flow when the engine ls turned. Fuel and exhaust systems 4-3 2.38 Detach the luul has: s V . XRWSD-L to N (IQSD to 1992) models have no manual reserve facility. but a level sensor lnsxdslhe tank transmits la a low fuel warning lglll In lhe instrument cluster. On later models Illa resErvS (HES) posltlorl on the meal tap allows a law mlles to be covered after the main tank has run out, and serves as a tow lvai level warning. the carburettols are Kelhin cv types. For cold starting. a choke lever mounted an the Illlshand handlebar and connected toy a table. controls an enrlchmenl circuit in each carburettor. All IS drawn into the carburettors VI: all alr llltsr housed under the seat on KRWSD-L to N (1990 lo 1992) models. and in Imfll oi the fuel tank on XFIV750-P models onwards (legs-on). The exhaust system is a two-lnto-one dulgn. Pmcautians Warning: Petra! (gasoline) in A Extremely flammable, so take mm precautions when you work an any part of tha Iuel system. Don’t mite or allow open llamas or here light bulbs near the work Ema, and don't wurk in 1 garage where a natural gas-type appliance ls prosern. If you spill any fuel on yourskin. rinse it nff immediately with soap Md water. “than you perform any kind of warlt on the fuel system, wear salary UIISSES and have a fire extinguisher ulltabie tor a class a type {ire (flammable Initials) on hand. Always periorm service procedures In a wellrverltllated area to prevenl E buIId-up of llililes. Never work In a building containing a gas appliance With a pilot light. or any other iorm dunked Hamel Ensure that there are no Med light bulbs or any sources of flame or sparks nearby. Do not smoke (or allow anyone else to smoke) white in the uiotnity oi petrol or oi lumpanants containing It. Remember the possible presence or vapour from these sources and move well clear belore smoking. Check all electrical equipment belonging to itehouse, garage or workshop where work is being undertaken (sea the Saiety Firstl section ill this manual). Remember that Certain series; . “a 23h . . . and the vacuum hose (arruwed) electrical appliances such as drills. cutters etc create sparks In the normal course 01 operalion and musl not be used near petrol or any component containing it. Again. remember the possible presence at lumss belore using elsotncat equipment, Always mop up any split iuel and sstely dispose or the rag used. Any stored tuoi that is dralned oif during servicing work must be kept in sealed containers that are suitable to! hcildlng pelrol. and clearly marked as such; the containers themselvss should be kept In a safe place Note that this last point applies equally to the fuel tank It It Is removed lrom the machine: also remember to keep Its cap closed at all times Note that the fuel system consists of the Iuel tank and lap. Wlth Its cap and related hoses. Fleact the Safety llrstl sacllun OI (Ills marlual Carelully belore starting work, removal and installation K , ‘K K Wamlng: rieler to the precautions A given in Section 1 before starting work. Caution: The lost tanks on these machines are quite large. which means if they are ruii they will be heavy. I! is advisable therelora to only remove the tank when It is at least hall empty. ll the tank is ruii it is has! to 2 Fuel tank and tap - 2.5 . . . and oareiuliy remove the tank 2.4 Unscrew the mounting bolt . 4 v drall'l if before removal. The has! way to do (Ills is to obtain a commercially available syphoning tool and a jelry can. Alternatively attach a suitable hose to the up and lead its open and into a ferry an. On XL moueis you will have to apply a vacuum to the lap before it can be drained, otherwise the fuel will not flow out. Fuel tank Removal — XLSODV models 1 Make sure the iuel rap is turned to the OFF position. Make sum the iuei cap is secure. 2 Remove the seat and the falling side panels (see Chapter at. 3 Release the luel hose clamp and detach the hash Ircm the tap (see illustration). Release the vacuum hose clamp and detach the hose tram the tap (see llluslratinn). 4 Unscrew and remove the fuel mounting ball (sea illustration). 5 Remove the tank by oareiutly drawlng it back and away from the hike (see Illustrallonli Take care not to lose the mounting rubbers train the roar oi the tank. and from belween the sides Of the tank and the frame. notlng how they lit. 6 Check the tank mounting rubbers Ior damage or deterioration and replace them Wl'th new ones If necessary (see Illustration). Removal — XLBSOV models 7 Make sure the lust cap is seeure. 3 Remove the seat and the lalrlng (see Chapters). tank 26 Check the mounting rubbers (arrow) for damage and deterioration 4 4-4 Fuel and exhaust systems 23 Bench the fuel base (A) and me vawum hose (B) 2.1": . frame rail 9 Release the luel hose clamp and detach the nose from rne tap (see illustration). Release the vacuum hose clamp and detach the hose from me lap. 10 Unscrew and remove the luel tank 2.17!) . t . and remove me cover 2,10 Unscrew the bolt (snowed), than raise the tank a! the rear hoses (A) from their unlous [Bl mountlng boll (see illustration), 11 Raise ma tank ai the rear and suppan ll using a block of wood if required‘ Disconnect lns luel level sensor WlYll’lg connector. men carefully draw tne wiring under me irarne lube, noting Its routlng [see illustrations) Also disconnect the overflow and breather hoses lrom their unions on the tank. noting Whlch Iits where (see Illustration). 12 Remove me tank by carelully drawing ll back and away Iron-l Ihe blke [see Illustration). Take care not In lose the mounling rubbers: from the rear nf the tank. and lrom between me sldas cl (he tank and \he llamel noting now lney m, ‘3 Check the tank mounting rubbers for damage or deterioration and replace them with new ones if necessary. Removal — XFNTSO models M Make sure lhs fuel lap ls Iurned [0 (ha _ , ,1! 2.176 Undo HI. screw . , . 2.11: Disconnect lite wiring cannecmr (arrowed) . . ‘ OFF positian. Make sure the fuel cap il secure. ‘5 Remove the seal and the fairing sldl panels (see Chapter 8). ‘6 0n L to N (1990 to 1992) modal). dlsconnscl the luel level sensor wlrlng Connector, located below me tank on the ISR- hflnd slde. I7 0n P models onward (1993-on), uncle me screws securing the alt nner housing coverv noting which fit where, and remove ll ("I illusuauons), Also undo the screw in Illa (Jenna 0f ll’ls fuel lap knob and remove (ll! knob (see illustraxlans), UHSCVEW all! remove the luel tank mounting bolls lsen' Illustration). Remove lhe tank prop from under the seat. than ralsa the tank at lhelesl I and lnsert lhe prop between the tank and lo bracket. usmg [he boll holes in each as anchors for ma support (see Illustrations) . . . and remove the knob Fuel and exhaust systems 405 2.1m .. .and locate the prop between i! and the bracket ll Release the fuel hose clamp and detach Ill! huse from the tap4 ramsmba That on L to it new to 1992) mudels there are two fuel laps (m illustraticn). On P models onwards 2177 Remove the prop (arrmned) from under the seat . . i Ln ,4“ 2.1Ba Detach the fuel hose (armwedl . , . (use-ant also disconnect the overflow and breather hoses from their unions on the tank, noting which his where (see illustration). 19 Remove the tank by carefully drawing it back and away imnn the hlkn Take care not to lose the mounting rubbers lroni the rear of the tank and from between the sides 0' the tank and the tram. noting how they fit. 20 Check the mounting rubbers liar damage or deterioration and replace them with new ones ll necessary. Installatinn -all models 21 Installation is the reverse of removal. rioting the following: 0 ll removed. install the kink mounting rubbers (see Illustration 2.6), Make sure the rubbers remain In place when Installing the tank (538 iiiush-afinn). 2.115 , . . than raise the back altha tank . . . 2.18!) . . . and the hmather and overflow hoses iarroweti) — later model type shown 0 Chsck that the tank is properly seated and is not pinching any cantml cables or wires. I Make sure the fuel hose is fully pushed onto its union on the lap and secure it with lts clamp. a Turn the fuel tap to the ON or HES poshian and check that there is no sign of fuel leakage. Stan the engine and check again that there is na sign afluei leakage. then shut ii ail. Fuel tap Removal 22 The tap should not be unnecessarily. 23 RemDVe the fuel tank E described above. 24 Unscrew the nut securing the tap to the tank and withdraw the tap assembly, hating its orientation (see l|lusbationa). removed 2243 Fuel lap - XLEDOV 2.2% Fuel tap - XL650V 2.24:: Fuel tan - xRWSO-P models onwards 4-6 Fuel and exhaust systems 2.25: Remove the strainer . . . Inspection 25 Remove the strainer (see Illustration). Discard the O-rlng (see Illustration). Clean the strainer to remove all traces ol dirt and Mel Sedlmenl. Check the gauze for holes. If any are hunt}, a new strainer should Defined. Fit the sitalner using a new O-rlng. 23 On XL models' if the lap is faulty. II can be disassembled and Inspected. The most likely problem is a hole or split |ri ‘lhB diaphragm. Belore removing and dlsmantllng the tap, Check lhai [have are no Splits or cracks In the vacuum hose. II In doubt, attach a spare hose to the vacuum unlon on the tap and apply a vacuum (0 the hDSe, ll Iuel does not flow through the tap (make sure it Is turned ON), or if Iuel flows when ihere Is no vawurn applied. undo the cover screws and remove the spring and diaphragm. noting how they tit (see Illustration). Hold the diaphragm up to a light 4.2a Slacker: the loin: piece clamp screw (snowed) 4.2:: Where fitted. unscrew the resonator tank bolt (snowed) 225» .. . and dlsoard its D-rlng to check ior splits or holes. 0n xLanov models. a new cover assembly Including the spring and dlaphragm ls avsllabls. On xuasav models a new lap must be instaiiaci. Installation 27 Installation is the reverse 0i removal. Make sure the lab is pointing lhe correct way (59E llluslratlnn 2.243, b or c). Tighten the nut securely _ ff the correct tools are available tighten II to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter. 3 Fuel tank's cleanan and repair 1 All repairs [0 the Iuel tank should be carried out by a prolesslonal who has experience In thls critical and potentially dangerous work. 42» . . . and each carburettor clamp screw (arrow) 4.2d Lifl the duct housing up off the carburenors 2.2a Fuel mp cover screws (arrowodl Even after cleaning and tlushlng ol lhellid system. explosive lumes can remain and Ignite durlng rspalr oi the tank. 2 II (he fuel tank ls removed from the bike] should not be placed in an area where spalu or open flames ooulo ignite the fumes coming out of the tank. Be especially careful insidl garages where a natural gas-type applianixhl located. because the pilot light could can: an explosion. 4 Air filter/duct housing-- removal and Installation Air duct housirr - XLGOOV and KR 50-L to N {1990 to 1992) models Removal 1 Remove the Iuel tank (535 Section 2). 2 Slackan tirs clamp screws sacuring than duct housing to the air filter housing inlril piece and the carburettor Intakes (SM illustrations). On XLGOOVvT to X (1997 II) 1999) models. unscrew the ball securing Ina resonator iank to the rrame (see lllusimilari); Remove the air duct, noting how ll Ills (an illustration). It required. slacken the clamp screw securing the Joint piece to the air lllliii housing and remove It. noilng how it loans (see illustration). Installation 3 Installalion is lhe reverse of removal. Louie ” 2 i ' 4.2a Siackerr the clamp screw (anowedl and remove the joint piece it required Fuel and exhaust systems 4-7 4.3a Matte sure mu tat: locates cuneclly (arrow) ma tab on the air lllter housing in the slut in the lam: piece (sea Illustration). Make sure the lntake ducts to the camuretlere are correctly nrlehtated (see illustration). 'nghteh all clamps screws securely. Air finer housing - XLGSOV and XHV750-F models onwards (1 ass-on) Removal » XL650V models 4 Remove the luel tank (see Section 2). 5 Release the clamp securlwg the hose to the sub-air cleaner and detach it (see illustration). Also detach the PAIR system. crankcase no Slacken the clamp screws (arroweu) 4.3!: Make sure the ducts are cmmiy positioned breather and draln hoses from the from. middle and back or the housing - If you rind them difficult to access do this as they become accessible after llfting the housing olt the calbursttors (see Illustration). 6 Slacker) the clamp screws securlng the air llllel housing lo llla carburettor Intakes (sac Illustration 4.50). 7 Unscrew the bolt securing the lrcrlt of the alr filter hnuslng m the lrame. then carefully Ilft the houslng up all the carburettovs. noting how it fits (see Illustration 45b} Removal — XRV750 models a Rsmova the luel rank (see Sectlcln 2). the bolt on each side (a) . .. 4s Detach the noses (arrowad) tram thelr unlcns union 9 Release the clamps and detach the crank- case breather and drain new from the huuslng (see illustration), 1:) Slackan the clamp screws securing the air fllter housing to the carburettor intakes (see illustration). 11 Unscrew the bolts securing the Iront and sides of the alrriltar housing to the name. then carelully litt the housing up ofl the carburettols, noting new It fits (sea illush'inlohs). Installation — all models 12 Installation is the reverse of removal, Make sure all the hoses are correctly installed and secured by their clamps. I _ and IBMDVB the housing 4-5 Fuel and exhaust systems 5t1a Pilot screw (arrowed) — 5.“? Pilot screw (arrowed) - XL model carburettor 5 Alr/lual mlxtura adjustment — general Information a § x Adjustment t it the engine runs exlrernely rough at idle or continually stalls, and ll a carburettor overhaul does not cure the problem (and it definitely Is a carburallon problem - see Sectlon 6). the Dllot screws may recurs adjustmenl. It Is worth noting atlhis point that unless you have the experience to carry this out It is best to entrust the task to a motorcycle dealer, tuner or ruei systems spectailst. The rront cyllnoer's pllal screw ls accessible (mm the right-hand side of the carburettor assembly and the rear cyllndar's pllot screw ls accessible lrorn the lelt (see illustrations). Make sure the csrburettors are synchronised oetore adjusting the pilot screws (see Chapter 1). 2 Belore adjusting the pilot screws, warm the engine up lo normal working lemperature. Screw in tha allot screw on both camurettors untll they seat lightly. then back them out to [he numbar ml turns specified (see this Chapter: Spec‘rllcatlonslt This is the base position tor adiustmenl. a Start the engine and reset the idle speed to the correct level (see Chapter 1). Working on one carburettor at a time, turn the pilot screw by a small amount either side of this position \0 find the point at whlch the highest consistent idle speed is obtained. Whan you‘ve reached this position reset the Idle Speed to the specified amount (see Chapter I). Repeal on the other carburettor. Caution: The catalytic converter fitted in ”I: Exhaust systlm uf XL650V made/s may be damagzd if the air/fuel mixture is malodjusred. Restrictions 4 Due 1c the increased emphasis on controlling exhaust emissions in certain world markets. regulations have been tormulated which prevent aidiustmerlt ol the atr/luol mlxture. On such models the pilot screw positions are are set at the factory and in some cases have a Iimller cap liner: to prevent tampering Whens adjustment is possible, It can only be made in conjunction with an exhaust gas analyser to ensure that the machine does not exceed the emissions regulations 6 Carburettor overhaul - general information 1 Poor engine pertarmancc, hesitation. hard starting, stalllng. flooding and backtlring are all signs lnol major carburettor maintenance may be rsquirea. 2 Keep in mind lhal many so-cailsd Carr ourettor problems are really not carburettor problems at all. but mechanical problems Wlthirl the engine or lgnitioh system ul‘ other electrical mallunclinns. Try to establlsh tor certain that the carburettors are in need or maintenance beiore beginning a mayor overhaul. 3 Check the fuel tap and strainer. the fuel and vacuum hoses. the intake manifold joint clamps, the air filter. the ignition system. the spark plugs valve clearance and carburettor synchronisation belors assuming that a carburettor overhaul is required. 4 Most carburettor problems are caused by dirt particles. varnish and other deposits which build up In and block the luel and air passages. Also, In time. gaskets and o-rings shrink or deteriorate and cause fuel and alr leaks which lead to poor performance 5 when overhauling the carburettols, disassemble them completely and clean the pans thoroughly with a carbureltor cieaning solvent and dry them with llltered. unlubrlcated compressed air, Blow through the lusl and air passages wltll compressed air to force out any dirt that may have been loosened but not removed by the solvent. XRV medal carburettor once the cleaning process IS complete. reassemble the carburettor using new gasm and Orrings. 8 Before disassembling Ihe carburettor: make sure you have all necessary O-rlngsarld other parts. some carburettor claanalr I supply ol clean rags, some means cl blcwllln out the carburettor passages and a clean place to work It is recommended that only une carburettor be overhauled at a llme ltl avoid mixing up pans. R l removal and installation t§ s2 . Warning: Rater lo the precaution A given In Section 1 berors starting work Removal 1 Remove the luel tank (see Section 2), 2 Remove the air filter/duct housing. according to model (see Section 4). 0n XL models also remove the rear cylinder lgrlltiuri HT coil (see Chapter 5). a Undo the two screws securing the lhmttis cable holder to the carburettcrs and datacli the cable ends from lite carburettors. mini which fits where (see illustration), 7 Carburettnrs— 7.3 Undo the screws (arrowed) and detach the bracket from the carbureflors Fuel and exhaust systems 409 7.5!: D9130" the all View! I'I XRV modals 4 Undo the uni secullng me choke plunger in each carburenar and draw the plungers am [we illustrations). 5 Delach the alr vent hoses lrorn their uninns‘ 1.5a Disconnzct heihrofile posluon .32.. noting what [its where (see Illustrations). 6 On XLSDOV-T to X (1997 to 1999) models. XLGSOV models. and XHV750»T models onwards (1996-on). discannecl the thvoula on each side . . . ses 7.6!) Trace the wiring from me healer (arrow) and dlsconnem I! 81 th: connector position sensor wirlng connector (see illustratlon). On UK XLSSOV models‘ dlsconnect each carburettor healer wmng connector (an illustration). 7 0n XFNTSOVL X0 N (1990 to 1592) models. release lhE Idle speed adlustsr 1mm its holder, on all XFl’l/750 models release (he Clamp and detach the fuel supply hose fmm lts unlon [see illuaration). A|so detach the overflow/drain hoses (see illustrafion). 8 Slacken the clamps securing Ihe carbursnors to the cylinder head lnIPJ rubbers, lhen ease the oarbureltors ufi. noling how they {in and manoeuvre them out 0! the lrame as shown (see Illuslraiions). Nola: Keep me carburanars as upright as possible to prevent fuel spillage Irom the float chambers and (he passlbillly of the piston diaphragm: being damaged. (he carburemzrs out at Ihi Intakes . . . 4 4-10 Fuel and exhaust systems x) K 73a Carbureuor drain screw (arrawed) — mu samuranerdraln screw (armwed)— XL models xnv medals fully In the ducts 9 Place a suitable container below the lloat chambers, men Slacken (he draln screws and drain all (he luel lrom the carburellars (see lllustratians). Once all the fuel has been drained. llgmen me dmin screws securely. 10 ll necessary. release the clamps securing the inlel rubbers lo the cylinder heads and remove them. mung how lney l‘ll. Installation l 11 Installation is the reverse of remuvzll. nmlng the lallawlng. I Check for cracks or spllls ln the cylinder head lnlo‘ rubbers. ll {hey have been removed lrorn the cyllnder headr make sure they are installed with the sloked lab on the adaplal allgning Wlm the ralsed Ilp an the underside 01 he cyllnder head stub . ‘ a Make sure the carburettors are My engaged wlm the cyllnder head inlet runny: and the clamps are securely tlgmaned (son illustration). l I Make sure all hoses are correctly routed and connected and secured. and are null lrapped or klnked. . Check the operation ol the choke and lllrzmle cables and adlusl mam as necessary (see Chamer l). I Check ldls speed and carbureuur synchmnisallon; adlust as necessary (see Chapter‘l). l s Camursnme— ‘ § disassemblyrclaaning » L _ and Inspection ; , 'j given In Sectian 1 before starting 2 Wemmg: Rerer lo we pmcaullmu WO’L Disassembly 1 Remove the carburettors (see Section 7). Name: Do not separate me carburanors unless absolutely necessary; each carburettor can be 6.1a carburettor componenls — XL models and ”1me m N (1990 m 1992) models 1 Top cover a Brain screw 15 Flea! needle valve dismanlled sufficiently for all nnrmsl cleaning 2 Spring 9 Rubber seal seal and adiuslmenls while In place on Ms mourning 3 PISlon/dlaphragm 70 Float and float pin 15 Pllol screw brackets. Dlsmanlle We carburettars separately 4 Needle holder 11 Main jet 17 Air cur-arr valve cover lo avoid interchanging parts (see llluslraucmsl 5 Spnrlg l2 Needle [at 15 Spring 2 Unscrew and remove the lap cover relalrllrlu 6 Jet needle 73 Filo! [El 19 Diaphragm screws (see ll|u§trflflonl Llft all the cover and 7 Float chamber 74 Float needle valve 20 Orring remove lhe sprlng lrum Inside the pisran. Fuel and exhaust systems 4-11 51b Carbureflor componens —XRV750‘P models onwards (1993-on) 1 Tap cover 8 Drain screw 16 Air lnrake funnel 2 Spnng 9 Rubber seal holder 3 Piston/diaphragm 10 Float and #03! pin 17 O—n‘ng 4 Need/e holder 17 Mam [El 75 Alf ”Hake funnel 5 Spring 12 Needle )2! 19 Air Cuba” 8 Jet needle and 13 Pf/cljat valve washer 14 Float needle valve 20 Citing Fina: chamber 15 Pilot screw 21 Air/'9! : Careruny peel the diaphragm away rmm its ssallng grams in the carburettor and wrmdraw (he diaphragm and prsmn assembly. Caution: DD not use a sharp instrument to displace the diaphragm as It is easily damaged. Note how khe lab on the diaphragm us in \he recess \n ma carburettor body 4 On XL models and XHW50—L ‘0 N (1990 [0 1992) moders. push down on me let needle malner using srlher a Phillips screwdriver or a Suhabia socket and rotate i! unm Its labs are released tram the pvmrusions inside the piston (m illustran'un) Remove the retamen notmg the spnng on iks unders‘de — N should s‘ay In pace, bur take care not to lose it and remove n 5.2 Undo the screws (arrowed) and remove me saver and spring 8.4a Turn the retainer (snowed) |o release its tabs . , r 4-12 Fuel and exhaust systems v- x l.“ ~ .t BAb . . .then withdraw It. , , if it Is loose (see Illustrations). Push the needle up irom the bottom of the plston and wllhdraw it "am the top [sea Illustratlon). 5 0n XRWSO-P models onwards [1993-on) models, thread a 4 mm screw into the Ian at - : , "‘_ 3.6 Remove the screws (snowed) and Ilfi on the chamber 8.4a . . . milling Its spring the needle holder (one at the top cover retaining screws ls ldeal). then grasp the screw head using a pair ol pllers and carefully draw the holder DUI Ol the piston, Note the spring ln the base of the needle nolder — it should stay in place. but take care notto [use 11 and remove il if It ls loose. Push the needle up (mm the bottom of the piston and withdraw it 1mm the top Note the washer that lils between the needle head and the Dlstonv Check the CDfldlllDl’I of the O-rlng on the holder and replace ll with a new one ll lt is damaged, delormed or deteriorated. 6 Undo the screws secur‘lng the float chamber to the base of [he carburettor and remuve rt [see illustralion). Remove the rubber seal and discard ll as a new one must be lined. 7 Unscrew and remove the main jet from the needle Jet [see Illustration). Edd Remove the needle 8 Unscrew and remove ll’IE needle lat (Sal Illustration). 9 Unscrew and remove the pilm Jer (su illumllon). 10 Using a pair 01 Ihirknose pliers‘ carefully withdraw the that pivot pin (see lllustratinnl If necessary. displace the pin using a small punch or a nail, Remove the float and unhodl the float needle valvel noting haw It Ills onto the tab on {he float (see Illustration or! XL models and XRWSD-L to N (rasu 101992) models unscrew and remove the final neadlt valve seat, taklng care not to damage In gauza tmer (sea illustration), 11 The pllot screw can be removed mm [m carbureflnr. but note that Its Setllng wlll be dislurhed (see Haynes Hint oppositall Unscrew and remove the pilot screw along with Its spring, washer and Grlng (set lllustrafion 5.13 or b). 8,108 Dlsptace the float Divot Bl" , . . Fuel and exhaust systems 4-13 3,125 To record the pilot scraw’s . current setting, turn the HINT screw in until it seats lightly, counting the numhar at turns necessary to achieve this. than fully unscrew It. On Installatin . the screw is simply backed out are number oi turns you’ve recorded. ‘2 On XL models and XRVVEO-L (D N [1990 mltlszi models, remove the two screws securing the air cut-oil valve cover and its plate, noting that i1 is under spring pressure [see illustration). Carelully release the cover and remove the spring and cul-oti valve diaphragm, rioting now they til (see Illustration), Also remove the O-rlrig. ‘3 On XRV750-P models onwards (19934)"). detach the hose from the union on the air Cu? anlve, then remove Ihe screw and draw the valve out of the carburettor. Remove the alr jet. Discard the O»rirlgs as new ones must be used. 14 Oil XLGOOVnT to X (1997 to l989l models. XLESDV models. and XRVVSOVT models onwards ll996-onl. do not remove the throttla WSlllon scrlsor unnecessarily. li you do need to remove it, rarer to Chapter s. is On xnvrsorp models onwarosi1993—on), undo the screws securing the all intake lunnal assembly arid remove It, noting how ll fits. Separate the lunrlel "0m its holder ll requlred by lwrsting it [a tree the tabs. noting how it fits. Discard the O-ring ll it Is in any way aamaoed, dclormao or detenorateo. Cleaning Caution: USB anly a petroleum based solvent for carburettor cleaning Don’t use Hustle cleaners. 18 Submerge the metal components in the solvent lulluwlrig the product manulacturer's instructions. 17 After the carburettor has soaked long cmugh lor the cleaner to loosen and dissolve Undo the screws (arrowed) . . . 8.12): . . .than release the cover and remove the spring amt diaphragm. Also remove the O-ring (arrawed) most of the varnish and other deposits. use a nylonrbrlstleo brush to remove the stubborn deposits. Rinse it again. then dry it with compressed air. 18 Use ajel oi compressed alrto blow out all ol the luel and air passages in the main arid upper body. not lcrgatting that air jets in the carburettor intake. Caution: Never clean the [rats or passages with a piece of wire ura drill bit, as they will be enlarged, causing the fuel and air metering rates to be upset. Inspection 19 inspect the choke plunger assembly fclr wear and damage (see illustration 7.412). 20 ll removed from the carburettor, check the tapered portion ol the pilot screw and the spring and O-rlrig for wear or damage. Replace them with new ones it necessary. 2| Check the carburettor bodyi lloa‘l chamber and top cover icr cracks. distorted sealing sunaces and other damage, ii any defects are round. replace the faulty component. allhough replacement ol the entire carburettor will probably be necessary (check With a Honda daalar on the availability ol separate components), 22 Check The plstnn dlaphragm lDr SDIlISi holds and general deterioration. Holding it up to a light will help to reveal problems or this nature. 23 Insert the piston ln the carburettor body and check that it moves uprand—down smoothly. Chock the surlace oi the piston icr wean if it's worn excessively or doesn't move smoothly in the guide. renew the components as necessary. 24 Check the jet needle ior straghthass by rolllng it on a llat surface such as a piece ol glass. Replace it With a new one ll it's bent or if the tip is worn 25 Check the lip of the lloa! needle valve and the valve seal, ll either has grooves or scratches in it. or is in any way worn, they Should be renewed as a Set, Gently push down on the rod on the loo of the needle Valve lherl release it 7 ll it doesn’t Spring back. replace the valve With a new cup. 26 Operate the throttle shaft to make sure (he lhmflle bullerlly valve opens and closes smoothly. ll it doesn't. cleaning the throttle linkage may help. otherwise. replace the carburettor mm a new one. 27 Check the floal for damage. This Wlll usually be apparent by the presence or fuel inside Ihe float. ll the floal is damaged. it must be replaced With a new one. 28 On XL models and XRV‘ISDrL to N (logo to 1992) models, check the air Dbl-c" valve diaphragm for splits. holes and general deterioration. Holding it up to a light will help to revaal problems of (his nature. Also check the spring lct oeiormalion and weaknass and replace it with a new one it necessary. 29 On XRWSOVP models onwards (1998r0rl). to check the air cut-ail valve, apply a vacuum to the union on the valve cnver With lhp vacuum applied, air should not be able to llow between the ports ln the valve. With no vacuum applied. all should be able to how. it the valve does not behave as described. reulaoe It with a new one. 9 carburetturs— jag separation and joining '\ op Warning: Reler to the precautions A given in Section r before proceeding Separation 1 The carburettcrs do not need to be separated for normal overhaul. It you need to separate them (to replace a carburettor body. rm example), reier to the rolicwing procedure (see illustrations overleaf). 2 Remove the carburettors item the machine (see Section 7), Mark the body or each 4-14 Fuel and exhaust systems M2758 1 anmyundarcamummr 2 Raslcylinderca/burenor 3 Joining scmws 4 Fuel hose H32757 94b carburennr assembly — laler XHV mudels 1 anlcylindercarbureftor 4 Fualhosss 2 Rearcyllndercarburemr 3 Jo/n/ngbolls 7 Plastic washer 8 Washer 9 (El-ring 5 Splilpin S Washer 9.3h . . . flu synchranlsation screw and spring arrangement . l . r7 9.32 Note (he linkage and return spring arrangement . . . 9.1a Carburenur assembly — XL models and early XRV model: 5 Fuel hose union 6 Thrame rerun-t spring carburenor wim its cylinder locallon to 6mm mat It Is posilloned carreclly on reassembly, 3 Make a note cl how the throttle return spring. llnkage assembly and carbureflm synchromsatmn sprlng are avranged (o ensur- that may are lined correctly on reassembly (see illusmrinns), Also new lhe arrangemenl of the various hoses and mair unions (5:. Illustration). On XHWEUAP models onwalds (1 Was—an). remove the spllt pin and washers from the arm between the carburettor: al Illa lronl‘ nollng me order of the washers. 4 Undo the two screws (XL models and XHV750>L to N (1990 to 1992) models) or bulls (XRV750-P models onwards 0993-0")! securing me carbureuors lagelher and camlully separate them (see illustration). 0n XL models and XRWSO-L m N (199010 1992) models retrieve the synchronisation spring Joining 5 Assembly la the reverse of lhe disassembly procedure. nallng lhelollowlng‘ 0 0mm a new seal and O-ring sel lor yuur model and use all the parts contained (so. llluslretion 9.13 or h). 0 Make sure the fuel and air hoses and elbows are correctly and securely Inserted Into m carburenors (EBB Illumtlons 5.4 and 9.3: and b) Bran . . . and the arrangement at the has: and their unlons ‘ . . Fuel and exhaust systems 4-15 v.4 .. that undo the Joining screws or bolts (armwl — XLGWV typa carburettm‘ shown IOn XL models and XRWSO-L to N [1990 tn 1922) models install the synchronisation wring after the carburettors are joined together. Make sure It ls correctly and squarely seated (see Illustration sob). ICl'lenk the operation of the throttle linkage ensuring that It operates smoothly and telums qtllnkly under spring pressure. linslall the oamuretturs (see Sectlnrl 7) and attack carburettor synchronisation and Idle speed [see Chapter 1). .10 Carburettors - fi 1 reassembly and E‘é ‘.. lioal height check k Warning: Rotor lo the pretentious glvan in Section 1 before A probeeding. um: When reassembll'ng the carburettors. be r- - .p: .- 10.“ fit the O-rlng. making sure side ls on tho Inside A the flat sure to use the nsw O-rlrlgs. seals and other parts supplied ln the rebuild kit. Do not ovortl‘ghten the carburettor lets and screws as they are easily dammed. 1 On XL models and XHV750-L to N (1990 tolaszl models. iii a new air out-oft valve O-ring. making sure its that side races against the carburettor (see Illustration and 8.1:). Fit the air cut-off valve diaphragm. making sure the pointed centre tits lnto the passage and it is properly sealed (we illustration). Fit the spring between the cover and the diaphragm (see Illuslmion), than locate the cover and tighten its screws securely, not iorgettlng the hose unlun retainer plate where titted (sou Illusflafion 3.122). 2 On XRV7SDVP models onwards [lQSS-OH), lit the air jet and air cut-oft valve. using new Ovrlngs. and secure the assembly with its screws (see illustration 8.1b). Connect the hose onto the union on the air cubol'l valve. "gi 10.1b Locate the diaphragm . . . 3 Install the pllot screw (it removed) along wlth its spring. washer and O-rlng, tumlllg it In until it seals llghtly (see illustration 5.1a or b). New turn the screw out the number at turns previously recorded. or as spocmed at the beginning 01 the Chapter. 4 On XL models and XFtV750-L to N (1990 101992) models. install the float needle Valve seat with its washer, making sure the filter is attached (lee illustration). 5 HDok the float needle valve onto the lloat lab (sea illustration). Position the float asembly in the carburettor and Install the pin. making sure it is secure (so: illustrations 8.1% and a). 6 Screw the pilot [at into the body of the carburettor (see lllumflnn). 7 Screw the needle jet into the body of the carburettor (see illustration). Screw the maln jet into the end at the needle let lseo illustration). 10.6 Install the pilot i2! . . . WA Fit the needle Vahle soatwilh its washer 10.73 more heedlalet. . . 10.7b . . . and H19 maln let 4-16 Fuel and exhaust systems 10. 8 Measuring the rluat heighl B To check has lloal height, hold lhe carburettor so the rival hangs down. then till it back until the needle valve is iusl sealed. but not so far lhal the needle’s spring-loaded tip is compressed. Measure lhe dislance between the base or the carburettor body and lhe bottom of lhe float with an accurale wler (sea illustration). The correct setting should be as given in the Specifications at the beginning or the Chapter, ll lhe lloal heigln lS Incorrect. on brass iloais it can be adjusted by Carelully bending the float tab 3 llltle ai a lime Unlll the correct height is ohtalned (see Illustration 10.5): on plastic finals an incorrect float height can only be corrected by renewing the float. 9 With the float height Checked, ill a new seal into the groove in the lloat Chamber. then fit the chamber onto the carburellcr and secure il with (he screws (sea illustration). 10 On XL models and XRV750-L lo N (1990 w 9 Fit a new o-ririg into the groove and install the horn chamber (01992) models. carefully lit the ]e\ needle into the piston (see lllustmlion BAd). Check that the spring is lined lo the retainer and is secure (see illustration 8.4c). insert the retainer and push down on lhe spring using a Phillips screwdriver or Sullable socket and rotate it until Its tabs luck underthe protrusmris in the piston lsee illustration and 5.48], 11 On XRW50AP models onwards USES-on), lit the washer undameath the jet needie head. Fll the needle into the piston, making sure lhe washer does not fall oil, Flt a new Bering lrilo the groove in the needle holder and smear it with oil. Check lhal the spring is in the hues oi the needle holder, or inslail it ll removed. Align the labs on the holder will] the siots in the piston and insert the holder, pushing it down unlil lhe 0*i’ll'ig is felt to locals in ils groove. Remove the screw used on removal from lhe holder, if nol already done. 12 Turn the diaphragm inside out so that its 10.12a Flt me piston into the carburettor . . . 10,1211 . then press the diaphragm rim into the groove, making sure the loop (arruwed) qutas corvecdy 10.10 Insert the retainer, lacs 9 [ha spring on the top or the needle. then press down and [um l0 secure Rs labs rim faces down. Insert the piston/diaphragm assembly min the carburettor, ensuring till needle is correctly aligned with the needlfiisl (see illustration). Keep alinger on lhe bohuri oi the piston in keep it raised (inserting your linger via lhe air Intake) so the diaphragm slays inside out — lhis will prevenl the rim popping aul of the groove. Align the loop on lhe diaphragm rim with its groove in the carburettor body. then press lhe diaphragm ouier edge inlo its groove, making sure in correctly seated (see illustration), 13 Keeping the piston raised. fit the spring. locating ii over the needle holder (see illustralioll). i=ii lhe lop cover onm llil carburettor, locating the top or the spring inside the raised seciion in lhe cover (an ustratinn). Align the protrusmn on the cover wllh the loop on the diaphragm [see illustration). Make sure lhe diaphragm rin stays seated in its groove and does not gel i pinched oy the cover, then install the cover screws and tighten them securely You can now Is! the piston drop. Check lhal lhe pisloli i moves up and down smomhly 14 On XR’WEO P models onwards l1993-un), in new air intake lunnel O-rlngs into the groove in the Intake side at each carburettor. Fit the ‘ air tunnel into the holder and mlals it so i‘hnl lls labs are locked in place Align lhe onion}; in the air lui‘lriel with the corresponding raised ‘ lands on his Intake bore. and in the pins on in: holder mm the holes in the carburettor body. Tighten ma iour screws securely. 15 it removed Install the throttle poslllorl sensor (See Chapter 5), 16 insraii the carburet‘lcrs isee Section Tii 10.133 insert the spring . 10.13b . t .1113“ lltthe cover. ,. "1,131: . . . making sure the pruh'usiun l (mowed) aligns mm the loop , Fuel and exhaust systems 4-17 11. la Sumner-hold the adiusler, than slacken the Iocknut (mowed) and thread it up . . . § ‘\ Waming: Refer ta lire precautr'ans given in Simian 1 before proceeding. 11 Throttle cables — _ " removal and installatloni, ’y c A Removal 1 Remove lhe fuel tank (see Sermon 2), Mark aacll cable according in Its posilion at each and. 2 Slacker! his lower (opening) cable locknut and lhrean ll up the adjuster a Illlle. lhen slide the adjuster along until the capnve nul clears llie small lug on the bracket and sllp ii oul cl lire bracket (sea Illustration). lI. 3b Detach the cable Ends lram the throttle cam 11.2h . . . and 5le the cable out of the brankat 3 Slacken the upper (closing) came locknut and slip lhe adjuster out ui lhe bracket (see Illustration). Deiacll the inner cable ends from me carburettor (sue illusklfloni 4 Pull back the rubber cover from the throttle housmg on the handlebars (see illusfl'azlon). Slackan the locknul on the opening cable ad[uster and the holder on the closing cable. Undo the two throttle pulley housing screws and separale the lwo halves (see Illustration). Remove lhe cable guide. noting how I! lits [see Illus|rntianl. Detach [he cable nipples from the pulley. then unscrew lhe adjusier and me holder and remove the cables from the houslng. nming l’lnw they ill (583 illustrations). Mark each cable to ensure ll ls counseled correctly on installation. 5 Remuve lhe cables from lhe machine notlng lhaircorrecl routing. T‘l 11.43 Pull back U1: cover, then Slacker! the locknut [A] and holdar (a) 11.3a slacken mo looknul and slip me cable Dul 0' the bracket Installation 5 Install the cables maklng sure they are correctly muted. The cables must not lnrerlere wlth any other component and should nol be klnked er berll sharply. 7 Flt me cables inio the ihrcitle pulley housing. making sure each is Installed into lls correct position. and thread the adiusler and holder into me housing (see Illustration 11.49). Lubricata the cable nipples with mulli-purpase grease and ill ihem into the lhmllle pulley (see illustration 11.411], Fil the cable gulde IMO the housing (see illustration 11.-to). 3 Fl! [he [W0 halves oi the housing Onto the handlebar. making sure lhe lop maring surlaces align with the punch mark in the handlebar. and install the screws. lightening them securely [see Illustrations). 9 Lubricale the cable lower ends with multla 11.”) Undn the screws [arrowed) and separate the halves 11.41: Remuve the guide . , . than detach the cable ends lrem the pulley . . . 11. 4e . l . and mrearl the adjuster and holaer out of the housing 4-18 Fuel and exhaust systems l1.6a Assemble the housing . . . purpose grease and attach them to the throttle cam on the tzrburettor (see illustration nah). Fit the upper (claslng) cable into the mounting bracket and tighten the Iocknut against lt (see Illustration 11.3a). Fit the lower (opening) cable into the bracket and draw the captive nut against the lug on the bracket (sea illustration) Tlghlen the Iocknut against the bracket (see illustration 11.2a). 10 Operate the throttle to check that iI opens and closes lreeiy. 11 Check the amount of lreeplay in the throttle cables and eelust ll necessary (Chan tar i). Turn the handlebars back and lanh to make they don't cause the stesrtng to bind. 12 Install the fuel tank (see Section 2). 1:3 Start the engine and check that the idle speed does not rise as the handlebars are turned. ll it does. the throttle cables are routed incorrectly. Correct the problem belore riding the motorcycle. collar 12.3: . . .and remove the liandguard 11.8h . . . aligning the mating surfaces with the punch mark (armwed) 12 Choke cable - removal and installation [WW Removal 1 Remove the tuel tank (see Section 2). 2 Unscrew each choke plunger assembly nut lrom the carburettor; and withdraw the plunger assembly lrorn each carburettor may (see illustrations 7.4a and a). Compress the spring and detach the cable and fmrri the choke plunger. noting how it Ills. Withdraw the cable lrom (he assemblyl ll Ihe Carburetlm‘ is not being disassembled for cleaning. it is advisable to reinstall the choke plunger assembly into the carburettor to avaid losing any of the components. 3 Unscrew the bolt and remove the collar from the hand guard on the left-hand side “.9 Fit {he cable into the bracket (see illustration). Counter-hold the screw- head and undo lhe nut on its bottom (an illustration). Remove the handguard (so! Illustration), 4 Pull back the rubber cover on the choke cable (see Illustration). Unda the screw securing the layer. than detach the lever. lining the wave washer and plate beneath il (93‘ illustration). Draw the Cable and out of the by! bracket, than slip the Inner cable out using llll slot and detach the nipple from the lever. 5 Remove the cable item the mummy noting lie correct routing. lnstallal‘lon 6 install the cable making sure it is causally routed. The cable must not interfere with any othsi component and should not be kinked M bent sharply. 7 Lubricate the upper cable nipple wlth mulll~ purpose grease. Fit the cable end into the lever. then slip the inner cable into the brawl and lit the outer cable and lnto its socket, Mount the lever on the bracket, making sure the plate and wave washer are l‘lttsd. and install the screw, Fit the handguard, Ihsn thread the locknul onto the bottom of the screw. Fil the tap ball with its collar, 3 Pass the lower and cl each inner cahla through its plunger assembly nut and spring. then attach the nipple to the plunger, maltlng sure it is secure. Install each plungel assembly mm the carburettor body and lighlen lts nut securely. 9 Fl! the Cable in its guide, Check the Dperallall of Ms choke cable as described in Chapter 1. 12.43 Full back the cover (snowed) . . . set. m, 12.4: . . .then undo the screw renewed), ii” a" the lever and detach “12 cable Fuel and exhaust systems 4-19 13.1c 0n XL models. alsa remove the rear downpipe shleld (snowed) It required and remove the heatsh d. noting how the tabs (A) film In the slats (al— XLBDOV shown 13 Exhaust system”— § is § 'lemoyal and installation Warning: If the engine has been running the exhaust system will A 0. very Ital. Allow the system to con/before carrying out any work. Removal 1 Remove the rtghliharld side panel, the belly-pan. an XLGOUV and XRV750 models the righlrnand lainng side panel. and on XLesov models the iatring (see Chapter 3). Remove the heat shieldl noting how ll fits (sea lltustratiansl 2 Sleeken the silencer clamp bolls, [hen unscrew the silencer mounllng bolts and remove the silencer. noting how It fits (see lllustretlons), 0n XL models note the collar lined with the front mnunling ball. 3 On XLEEOV models, slacker! the front downplpe clamp boll (see illustration), On all models unscrew the from downpipe flange retaining nuts from the cylinder head studs (see Illustrations), Draw the flange off the studs‘ then twist the [alps 5a it ls clear of the engine and remove it A Unscrew the rear downplpe flange reteinlng me The shield on the XLesov is secured by three bolts larmwed) 13.2c . . . and the rear bolt (armwed) . . . 13.28 On XL models, slacken the clamp bolls (arrawed) . . . 132d . . . and remove the silencer 13.2b . . . men unscrew the tram bull (snowed) . . . 13. 22 On XRV models, slacken the clamp bull (narrowed)- 4-20 Fuel and exhaust systems 131W . . .then unscraw the moumlng bum; larrnwad) and remove me sllenoer 113: Front downpipo flange mus (avowed) — XRV models nuts lrom the cylinder head studs. Slacker! the rear downpipe clamp bolt. then twist (he plpe so ll ls clear of lhe engine and remove ll [sac llluxwauons), 5 Remove xhe gasket lrum each cyllnder head. 134m Draw the flange on me studs. noting lhal the rear gaskel is a smallerdiameler than that offlre from, and discard them as new ones must be fitted (see Illustrmibn)‘ 6 On XLBSDV models, i' required, unscrew lhe collector box mounting bolts and remove 13.3b From downplpa flange nuts (armwad) — x1. models nae . . . and remove me pipe ma box. nming how 31 ms [see Illustration). 7 Check me oundillan of the sealing rings between me components and replace mam with new ones if they are damaged or deformed (see illustrations), Hunda recommend always 13.6 Collector box mounling bulls (snowed) — XLBSW 1&7b . . . and fit a new one Fuel and exhaust systems 4-21 13.8 Fit 3 new gasket IMO each head lislrlg new ones, but they can be difficult to lumove. and unless they are damaged they are reusable. it is too easy to damage a new one hylrig to Install i| it) make it wonhwhlle destroying a good one that IS already installed Installation 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. noting the lollowlng; wsa a new gasket in each cylinder head pan (see illustratlanlu Replace any damaged, deformed or deterlorated mounting rubbers with new ones IUse s new sealing ring between each component it required. bearing in mind the ninnnatton in Step 7 above (see Illustration 117m. Mlpply a smear of copper grease to all bolts to prevent them from selling up. ILeove all lusteners loose until the entire system has been installed, making alignment ill the various sections easier. Tlghleh the silencer mounting last. onghten the downpipe nuts to the torque 4 15.23 Fuel pump (snowed) setting specified at the beginnlng of the Chapter. 0 Run the engine and check the system lor leaks. 14 Catalytic converter a eneral information L650V models) 1 A catalytic converter is Incorporated In the exhaust system in minimise |he level Ol exhaust pollulants released into the atmosphere it is at the open»loop type, with no feedback to the ignition or iuellng systems 2 The catalyst is automatic in operation and requires no maintenance The lollowing precautions should. however. be observed. .DO NOT use leaded or lead replacement petrol (gasoline) , the additives will coat the precious metals. reducing their convening efficlsncy and will eventually destroy the catalytic oonverieh I Always keep the ignition and mat systems 152a Fuel cut-art relay tA), fuel warning light circuit checker (a) — XHWSO-L h) N models well»malntained in accordance wlth the manulaclurer‘s schedule — if the fuel/air mixture IS suspected ot being incorrect have it checked on an exhaust gas analyser, I DO NOT use fuel or engine Oil additives , these may contain substances harmful to the catalytic oonvefler‘ I DO NOT cantlnue to use the blke if the engine burns all to the extent of leaving a visible trail Dl blue smoke. I Remember that the catalytic cunvaner Is FRAGILE , take care not to Slflke the exhaust system with tools during servicing work, 15 Fuel pump - 3% check. removal and installation ‘\ (xnwso models) § Warning: Refer to the precautions A given in Section 1 before starting Chock work. I The luei pump is conirulled through a cul- oli relay‘ so that it runs whenever the Ignllion is switched ON and the ignition is operative (to, only when the engine is turning over), As soon as the ignlllon is killed. the relay cuts all the lust putnp'c electrical supply (so that there is no risk ol luel being sprayed at." under pressure in the event oi an accident). 2 The tool pump is mounted below the rear 01 the fuel tank 7 remove the lefl-hand side panel to access it (see Chapter ti) (see Illustrationl 0n L (D N (199310 lQBZl mndels the relay Is mounted below the instrument cluster — remove the lairing to access it [see Chapter a) [see illustration). On P models onwards (1993-on] the relay is mounted on the rear sun-name on the lefl-hand side — remove “19 left-hand side panel to access It (see Chapter 8) (see Illustrafiun). 3 It should be possible lo hear or feel the fuel pump running whenever the engine is turning over — either place your ear close beside the pump or lest it wllh your fingertips. ll you can't hear or reel anything. check the circuit luse (see Chapter 9). It the luse is good check the pump and relay for loose or corroded connections or physrcal damage and reality as necessary. ll all ls good so tar, penorm the iollowrng checks: 15.2c Fuel culrofi relay (snowedl — XfiV750-P models onward 4-22 Fuel and exhaust systems 4 Disconnect the relay wiring connector (see illustration 15.2c). Connect the positive l+) probe or o voltmeter to the black/red wire terminal on the loom side oi the Wiring connector and the negative [-l probe to earth. with the ignition switch ON there should be battery voltage present. it there is no voltage. check the black/red wire for faults. reterrtng to the Winng Diagrams al the and at Chapter 3 5 It battery voltage was present. check for continuity in the black/blue wire between the relay connector and the pump connector. and then between the green wire in the pump connector and earth (ground). it there is no continuity there is a iautt tn the black/blue or green wire. it there is continuity, check lor continuity in the blue/yellow nr black/yellow wire (according to model) between the relay and the ignition contnol unit. It there is none. trace the lault and repair the wire. It all is good. snort between the black/red and black/blue wire terminals In the relay Wiring connector (thereby etlectivety bypassing it) Now check tor battery voltage at the fuel pump wiring connector black/blue wire with the ignition ON ll there is voltage, the relay is faulty and must be replaced With a new one. s It the pump still does not work. trace the Wiring tron-i the pump and disconnect it at the 2-ptn wiring connector — remove the seat and raise the rear of the fuel tank to access it (see Chapter 8 and Section 2). but be prepared to remove the iuei tank it access to the connector is too restricted With it in place. Using a luily charged 12 volt battery and two insulated iumper wires, connect the positive l+l terminal ol the battery to the pumps black/blue terminal. and the negative [—) terminal at the battery to the pump's green terminal. The pump should operate. ll the - pump does not operate it must be replaced with a new one. it the pump works. check for battery voltage at the black/blue terminal on the supply side ol the connector with the iglllllull ON. ll there is no voltage. check the Wiring. 7 ll the pump operates but is thought to be delivenng an lnsulllclent amount of fuel. llrst check that all tuel hoses are in good condition and not pinched or trapped, check that the Invllne tiller. the strainer In the fuel tank and the lust delivery hoses are not blocked. a The tuei pump's output can be checked as follows make sure the ignition swttch is OFF. ll it was removed. Install the fuel tank in the raised position (see Section 2). a Release the clamp secunng the luel supply hose to the three-way union on the carburettors. being prepared to catch any residual iuei (see illustration 1.7a). Place the and Into a gmduated beaker suitable ior holding about 1/4 litre or petrol. 10 Disconnect the teloy wiring connector (see illustration 15.2c). Using a short length oi insulated jumper wire. connect between the black/red and the black/blue wtre terminals of the connector, 11 Set the kill switch to RUN. then turn the 15.14 Draw Ihe pump on its mounting lug and remove it Ignition switch ON and let fuel flow from lhe pump Into the beaker ior 5 seconds. then switch the ignition OFF. 12 Measure the amount 51 luel that has flowed into the beaker. then multiply that amount by 12 to determine the luet pump flow rate per minute. The minimum llow rate required is boo cc per minute. it the How rate recorded ls below this. than the lLlel pump must be replacad with a new one. Removal 13 Make sure the ignition is switched OFF. 14 The fuel pump is mullnted below the rear of the luel tank - remove the left-hand slde panel to access It (see Chapter 8) (see illustration) Trace the Wiring trom the pump and disconnect it a! the black 2-pin Wiring connector m remove the seat and raise the rear of the fuel tank lo access ll (See Chapter 8 and Section 2), but be prepared to remove the luel tank ii access to the connector is too restricted with it in plaoe. Free the wiring from any clips or ties and teed it back to the pump. noting its muting. Make a note or sketch of which luel hose tits on which union on the pump as an aid to installation. Using a rag to mop up any spilled ruei, disconnect the two hoses item the pump Displace the pump from Its mount and either disconnect the drain hose lrorn the underside or remove the pump with it attached. noting its routing. 15 On L to N (199010 1992) models the relay ls mounted below the instrument cluster — remove the fairing lo access ll (see Chapter 8) (see illustration 15.2h). On P models onwards (1993mm the relay is mounted on the rear sub-trams on the leftehand side » remove the lenrhand side panel to access It (see Chapter a) (see illustration 15.2c). Disconnect the relay wiring connector and remove the relay lrorn its mounting. Installation 16 Installation IS the reverse of removal. Make sure the luel hoses are correctly and securely titted to the pump — the hose thorn the In-llne llker attaches to the union marked lNLEl': the hose to the carburettora attaches to the other union. Stan the engine and check caretuily that there are no leaks at the pipe connections 16 netletetlndieatorcirouits _ checkand'mplacemant ' ' XRV750-L In N {1990 to 1992) models Check a warning light circuit 1 XRW50ll'letl should he a punch mark on the pedal shell which allgns with the slit in the arm, but ltniuy be difficult to see, Unscrew the pinch b0" Ml the brake pedal arm on the inside of the lraml (see illustration), Il you can‘t access it because at its position. on XLSOOV-H to K (1987 to 1985) models fully unscrew ttln adjusting wingnut on the end at the erakored. and on all other models remove the split pill irom the claws pin securing the brake pailsi til the master Cylinder pushrod. then removalho Clevls pin and separate the pedal iroiii tin pushrod (see illustrations), Rotate the pedd untii the belt can be accessed iii.- 3.4 spring (A) and the pedal return spring (B) — XLSDOV shown 3.5a Brake pedal arm pinch bolt (snowed) - XLBSGV 3.5b Remove the split pin . . . Frame, suspension and final drive 6-5 t; ' * 4.7, , , 3.5c . . . and withdraw the cleats pin lllumnllnn). IV access is still not passibls (lt varies between models). unscrew the tootrest musket baits and displace the bracket. 6 Draw the pedal 0m ol the arm and lootrest bracket and remove the arm and pedal (see illustration 3.5). Depending on the neighl mg oi the pedal, you may have to remove meiomrest (see above) tn prevent the pedal titling it as you draw it put. Installation 7 Installation is the reverse of removfili noting lliefolliwvlng: OMske sure the splines on the pedal shah ma those In the brake pedal arm are in good mniiitton. li they are worn or damaged (Le. flattened). there is a danger that the pedal mt‘d slip round I" the arm. making the brake lMllectii/e. Replace them with new ones if necessary. or it you are in doubt. uppiy snrne grease to the brake pedal pivot. Make sure the pedal and arm are correctly aligned (see Step 5), Miss a new split pin on the clev'is pin securing the brake pedal to the master cytlnder pushrod (see Illustration 3.5m. O'fighten the foatrest bracket mounting bolts wurelyt IChsck Ins operation at the rear brake light witch (see Chapter 1). yr» .3 A. 35¢ Brake pedal arm plnuh ban (snowed) - XL500V Gearchange lever B Betare removing the lever‘ note the alignr merit at the punch mark on the gearchange shah end with either the punch mark an lhe lever or with the sill in the lever clamp (according to model) (see Illustration). ll no marks are visible make yaur own so that the lever can be Installed in the correct position straight away 9 Unscrew the pinch bolt and slide the lever oft the shaft. 10 Installation is the reverse cl removal, VFW” _ , _ move! and installation WM Sidestand 1 The sidestand is attached It: a bracket on the trame. Springs anchored between them ensure the stand I: held In the retracted dr extended position, Support the bike on the centrestsndt 2 0n modsis with a rotary type sidestand ewltch (Le. XLSOOV-R to X. XL650V and XHV750-P onwards) displace Ins sidestand switch (see Chapter 9), There Is no need to and remove the lever 3.8 No!» the allgnmeni of (he punish mark, then unscrew the bolt .3“ disconnect its wiring connector or remove it completely, just let It hang from Its Wiring 3 Unhcok the stand springs. Unscrew the nut tram the pivot boil. then Unscrew the bolt and remove the Stand (see illustraliun) 4 On installation apply grease to the ptvol bolt shank. Install the bait and lighten it to the turqus setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter securely. then install and tighten the nut to the specified torque lssn iIIusttatlnn 4.3). Reconnecl the springs and check that they hold the stand securely up when not In use i an accident is almost cenain to occur it the stand extends while the machine Is in motion. 5 Where applicable, install the sldesland switch Check the operation ol the switch (see Chapter 1). Centrestand Note: The centresrand is not standard equipment, mix is available as an optional extra on Certain madels. XRV‘ISO—L to N (1990 to 1992) models and XLSOOV-K to V-X (1986 in 1999) models 5 Support the motorcycle on its sidestand. 7 Disconnect the two return springs lrom their lug on the centrestanut a Straighten the split pin at the end or the cemreelsnd pivoi snarl. then pull the split pin out and remnve the washer. Support the stand and withdraw ils pivot shah. 9 On installation. 390W grease to the outside surface 01 the pivot shaft and the Inside surfaces of the stand lugs and trains lugs. Fit the components In the reverse order at dismantling and lit a new split pin to secure the pivot shaft. Check that lhe return springs hald the Stand lully retracted. XRV750-P models unwards (19934)") 10 Support the motorcycle on Its sidestand. 11 Disconnect the two return springs 1mm their lugs on the centrestandv i. 't. 4.3 Unscrew the nut (”Men unscrewthe pivot halt (a) 6-6 Frame, suspension and final drive 12 Each pivot lug of the stand is secured to the irorne by a short pivnt slaeve: straighten and remove the splll pins. remove the washers and withdraw the pivot sleeves to tree the stand from the frame. 13 On tnstaliatian, apply grease to the outslde sunaces oi the pivot sleeves and the inside surfaces 0' the stand lugs and frame lugs. Fit the components in the reverse order 01 dismantling and lit new split pins ta secure the pivot sleeves. Check that the return springs hold the stand lully retracted. 5 Handlabars and levers - removal and installation % \ § Handlebars Removal Note: The handlebars can be displaced from the top yoke without having In remnve the individual assemblies Irorn them — follow 5:205 a and 9 only. 1 Remove the rear View mirrors (see Chapters). 2 Dlsconnect the wires tram the brake light switch (sea illustratlon). Unscrew the two lnont brake master cylinder assembly clamp bolts and position the assembly clear or the handlebar. making sure no strain is placed on the hydraulic hose or pipe (see lllustrafinn). Keep the master cylinder reservoir uprlght to prevent possible fluid leakage. ' 3 Dlsconnect the wires from the clutch switch (snowed) 5.23 Disconnect the wiring connectors (arrowed) (sun Illustrallon). Unscrew the two clutch lever assembly clamp bolts and position it clear of the handlebar. 4 Unscrew the handlebar switch screws and tree the switches from tha handlebar (see illustrations). Release the ties securing the wiring to the handlebars. 5 Refer to Chapter 4, Section 11. and detach the throttle cables from the twistgrip. 6 Unscrew the right handlebar endeweight retaining screw. then remove the weight lrorn the and at the handlebar and slide the throttle twistgnp on the anal If required. unscrew the left handlebar end-weight retaining screw, (hen remove the weight tram \he end of "16 handlebar and slide off the grlp. If the grip has been glued on. you wlll probably have to silt it with B knife to remove it. 7 ll the handlebar holders are belng removed from the tap yaks. slacken the nuts securing them all the underside OlK the yoke now. bolts larrowed) and displace the assembly 3 I' the handlebars are lust being displacad and the lmnt brake master cylinder assemhll is sllll attached. unscrew the bolt securing ill! brake hose clamp to the top yoke and lit! bolts securing the pipe clamps to the button yoke — this will allow mare movement In ill! handlebars and prevent stress on the rum and pipes (see illustration). 9 Unscrew the handlebar holder clamp ball: and remove the clamps and the handlebar: (see lllust'ratinns). 10 if required, unscrew the nuts and remme the washers an the handlebar holders. than draw them out or the top yoke. Check the condition 0' the rubber bushes in the [OD yoke and replace them wlth new ones if they are damaged or deteriorated. Installation 11 Installation is the reverse of remuval, nou'ng the lallowlng. (anointed) 5.8 Unscrew the bolt (snowed) and displace the brake pipe holder train the top yoke 5.9a Unscrew the holder bolts (arrawedl . . . 5.9K: . l . and remove the handlebars Frame, suspension and final drive 6-7 is 7.. ‘ Ne. , _,1‘ 511a Align the punch mark (snowed) the clamp mating surteees lit removed. tighten the handlebar holder little after the handlebars are Installed, IAlign the punch mark on the back oi the handlebar With the mating surfaces oi the left handlebar holder and clamp [see Illustration). Hiihe handlebar clamps with the punch mark tithe iront, and tighten the iront clamp bolts first. then the rear. to Ihe speciiied torque setting (see illustration). Madly some grease to the throttle twrstgnp 59min" of the handlebar, OMake sure the front brake master cylinder assembly clamp ls installed with the UP mark lacing up. and with \he damp mating surfaces aligned with the punch mark on the top of the handlebar (see illustration). Tighten the master cylinder clamp bolts to the specified torque setting, tightening the top bolt first. IAllgn the clutch lever assembly clamp mating suriaces with lhe punch mark on the back or the handlebar, and tighten the trout boll bElDre the rear bolt. IMake sure the pin in the lower halt 0' each switch hduslng locates in its hole in the handlebar. Tighten the from housing screw first. then the reaL lAligrl the throttle cable hnuslng hall mating surfaces with the punch mark on the handlebar. IWhen installing the handlebar end—weights. align the boss with the groove on the inner weight inside the handlebar, Use some non— permanent thread locking compound on the screws. It new gripe are being fitted, secure them using a suitable adhesive. lcheck the throttle cable adjustment as described in Chapter L .Dn not forget tn reconnect the front brake light switch and clutch switch wiring connectors. Handlebar levers Front brake lever l2 Unscrew the nut and remove the collar on the underside Di the handguard (see Illustration). Unscrew the pivot bolt and retrieve the hendguard, then remove the lever [see illusmations). I3 Installation is the reverse or removal. Apply grease to me pivot bolt shaft and the Contact areas between the lever and Its bracket. clutch lever i4 Pull the rubber boot art the clutch mole “.5 5-128 Unscrew the nut and remove the collar adjuster. Slacken the adjuster lockring and thread the adiueter iully Into the bracket to provide maximum ireeplay in the cable (see illustration). is Unscrew the bolt and remove the collar i153 Unscrew the bolt and remove the collar Linc Align lite punch mark (arrowed) with the clamp mating surfaces, and fit the clamp with the up mark racing up 5.12b Unscrew the pivot hull and remuve the handguard . . . from the hand guard (see illustration). Counter—hold the screwheae and undo the nut on its bottom (see illustration). Remove the handguard (see illustration} 16 Unscrew the pivot bolt end washer and 5.14 Full back the boot that: slacken the Iockriltg and thread the adjuster in 5.15h Counter-hold the screwhead and undo the nul on the bottom . t , 6-8 Frame. suspension and final drlve 5.151: . . . and remove the handguard remove the choke lever and the clutch lever. detachlng the cable nipples as you do so (see llluslralinrl). Nate the wave washer between the choke lever and the lever plats. Remove the plate lmm the lever bracket ii required. noting how ‘rt lits. 17 lnslallatlon is the reverse cl removal. Apply grease to the pivot bolt shaft and the Contact areas between (he lever and its bracket. and m the cable nlpples. Adiusl the clutch cable heeplay (see Chapter 1). 6 Forks — § removal and Installation \ k Removal Gaul/on: Although not strictly necessary, before removlng the forks it is 6 4a slacken the lurk clamp halts (arrawed) In the top yoke. . . 5 5h Draw the lurk down and nut 01 the yokes 5.16 Undo the screw (Irwin/ad), lift on the choke lever. sllde out She clutch lever and detach the cable recommended that the fairing and fairing panels in! remavsd (see Chapter 5). This wIII prevent accidental damage to the paintwork. 1 Remove the tram mudguard (see Chap- tar a). 2 Remove ihe lront wheel (see Chapter 7). 113 the front brake calipers and hoses back so that they are out of ths way. a Release the speedometer cable and any wlring lrom the lurk, notan its routlng. 4 Working on one lolk at a time. slacken the fork clamp bolts ln the tap yoke (sea illustration). lf the fork is to be disassemhmm or If the fork all is [:5an changed it is advisable to slacken [he lork top belt at this stage (see Illustmion). oh Xersu-L ta 3 (1990 to ‘995) models. first remove the all valve cap, then depress the valve to release any air under pressure. Note the amount 4:! protrusieh 0f the fork above the tap yoke. s an ...ahd ll required the lam top hon 8.7 Sell the lurk hllgm as shown, making sure it is the same on both sldes 5 slacken the lurk clamp bolts in the baltwi yoke, and remove the fork by twlsllng It and pulllng lt dawnwards (see illustrations). HAVNES (”Its lbrlt long are he; yokes. spray lite and will] pmlrminy all M alluw time for n to soak lit bolero Will ny-ln Installation 6 Remove all (r5655 Of corrosion from the lam tube and the yokas. Slide the fork up through the bottom yoka and into the tap ydkm making sure it passes through the cable tietsl and all cables. hoses and wiring are routed all the correct Side of the Vork (see illustrlflml 65b), 7 Set the trap of the lurk tube (not the tap with: lark lop bolt) llush with “1310p surface alth- lap yoke (ea. Illustration). Make sum it Is thn same on both sidest a Tighten the lurk clamp bolts in the bottom yoke to the torque selling specified at the beglnning of ma Chapter (see "lust-alien 6.54 If the fork has been dismantled or ll the lorkcll was changed. tighten the fork top bolt tame apecmed torque setting (see Illustrallon). Noll 35; Button: yoke lurk clamp imit- 6. B Tighten ma lurk lop bolt to ma specified torque setting Frame, suspension and final drive 6'9 5.9 Push the guitar up against the yoke and lighten the clamp screw (arrcwad) lighten the lork clamp traits in the top yoke la in: specirisd rorque (see illustration 6r4a), I! ll the lurks were disassembled. push the guitar up the lurk lube until coniacls the unflSfSIdE of the bottom yoke. then tighten its claim screw (see lllustmliunlr Ill lnslall the front wheel (see Chapter 7), and the lrpnt mudguard (see Chapter 5). Make sure (he speedometer cable is properly routed and secure in it 3 guides ll Check the nperatlon 0' the lronl lorks and brakes before taking "19 machine But on the load '1 Fa:k ‘- K ollghaange § ‘ K XLSDOV-H to V-fl (1987 to 1995) and XRV750-L to S {1990 to 1995) models Mate: The forks lilled (a early models are equipped with an all drain ball at the lower narlace of each fork sllder, Bnahllng rhs Oil lo be changed Wilhnui removing lhs lurks lrpm lire motorcycle. 1 Posilian a container below each lurk leg drain Doll and have ready 3 place ml card or similar to direct ail away from rhe lyre during dralillng. Remove the Gram ball from the fork slider and, wllh the bike Off HS Slant). pump me lurks I0 expell rhe fork Oil "110 lhe cnnfalner. 2 0n complerlon 01 drainlng. relil lhs drain halls with rhetr seallng washers. and tighten them securely. Renew Ihe washers 'if necessary, 7‘10 Thread the (op bolt out of the tube 3 Displaoe the handlebars irom lhs mp yoke as described in Section 5. Unscrew the lap ball irprn the top 0! each fork (see illustration 7.10). Warnin The lurk spring is A Brewing on the fork lap ball with sansiderable pressure. Unscrew the hair very calelully. Imaging a downward pmssurn on E1 and release it slawly as it is likely m spring clear. It Is advisable ta wear some form a! eye and face pmleczIon when carrying out this aparariun. 4 On XLSDO models. wllhdraw the spacer' spring seat and lira spring lrom the tube. On XRV7SU models. wllhdrflw the upper saving, sprlng seal and lower spring lrprn the tuner Note which way up the Spring MS. 5 Working on one lurk at a time. slowly pour In me specified quantity or his specified grade Mfork all and Dump the fork al leasl ten times In dislrlbule ll evenly (see illustrarlon 7.1% When both lurks have been lilled. fully compress the hunt and so lhal lire lurk lubes are lully compressed lntc me sliders. than measure the oil level. Check lhal the level ls the same in each fork and that it ls as specified at me beginning cf the Chapter 5 Extend the lurks. ihen install the spring wrth lts closervspacen calls at (he bottom, On XLGDD models now install the spring seat and the spacer. 0n XFW750 models insiall the spring seal and the upper sprlng. 7 Fl! 9 new O—Iing (a each lurk lap bolt and ll‘ll'ead me bolls inlo {he top D! the lurk limes (see illustralian may Screw each top boll carefully into its lork tube making sure ll ls not crossArhreaded. than llghlen ll lo the specified larque sailing Waming- it will be necessary to A compress rha spring by pressing ll dawn Using the to): ball [0 engage rile "'de of the my ball with the {ark tube. This is a palenlially dangerous operation and should be performed with cars, using an assistant it necessary. Wipe on any excess all before starring in prevent the possibility of slipping. 5 Insiall the handlebars (see Section 5) XLEOOV—T models onwarfl (1996— on), )(L650Vmodels and XRWSO—T (mas-on) models onward 9 Remove the forks (see Saullcn 6). Always work on the fork legs separareiy to avold Interchanging pans and thus causing an accelerated rate of wear (see illustration 513 or b). 10 ll the fork (0p boll was not slackened Wirn ms fork in silu. carelully clamp the fork tube In a vice equipped Willi son laws. taking care not to ovenighran or score irs suriace. and slacken the rep halt (see Illustration) 11 Unscrew the kirk top boll lrom the top of the fork lube Warning: The fork spring is A pressing on the lprlr lop hair with considerable pressure. Unscrew lira poll vary carefully, keeping a downwan: pressure on i! and release it slaw/y as if is ”10er in spring clear. Ii is advisable ta wear some farm of eye and race pmracrion when carrying our this operation. 12 Slide Ihe fork lube duwn inlo lhe slider. On XLsoo arid esp models. wrtnaraw ma sprlng From rhe lube (see Illustration) On XRWSO medals. withdraw the upper spring. spring seal and lower spring from rne lube. Note which way up the spring lits. 13 lnven the fork pver a suitable cpnrainar and pump Ihe lurk lube vigprously lo expel as much oil as posslble (see illustration). Suppon (he fork upside down in the container ior a while is allow as much oll as ppssihle to drain. and pump the fork again. 14 Slnwly pour in the specified quanmy Dl lire speciiied grade at lurk Oil anri pump lhe lurk at least ran times to distribule ll evenly [see illustratipn). Fully compress lne fork lube intp rhe slider and measure the all level. and make any adjus1menl by adding more or 7.12 Remove the spring 113 Invert the fork over a ppmainer and pump the tube (in expel me all 6-10 Frame, suspension and final drive 7J5 fit the my belt using a new o-ring Upplng some out until the all is at the level speeitied at the beginning at the Chapter. 15 Clamp the slider in a soft-lawed vice using the brake eallper mountlng lugs. taking care not to ovenighten and damage them. Full the lork lube out at the slider as tar as possmle then install the spring with its closeraspaced calls at the bottom (see illustration 7.12). On XRV'ISD models. new install the spring seat and lhe upper spring. 15 Flt a new orring to the fork lop ball and thread the pull into the top ol the fork tube (see illustration). Warning: I! will be necessary to A compress the spring by pressing ll down using the tan ble to engage the threads or the tap bolt with the fork tube. This Is a potentially dangerous operation and should be performed with care, using an assistant if necessary. Wine of! any excess oil before starting to prevent the passlbmty of slipping. Keep the tork tube fully extended whilst pressing on the spring. Screw the top bolt carelully into lhe iork tuoe making sure it is nDI Cross'mreaded. New: The top boll can be tightened to the specified torque setting at this stage it the lube IS held between the padded jews at a vice, but do not risk distorting the tube by doing so. A better method is to tlghten the tap ball when the fork has been installed in the bike and i‘s securely held in the bottom yoke {see illustration 6.8}. P This makes it unnecessau/ ta‘ remove the tall from he bolt whilst-threaa‘lnb it In making It easier to malnléln a dammit/and ‘ pressure on the sprl ‘ ' Use e met-type tool when lnstelllno the (ark tap ho 9 Install the talks (see Section 6). a Forks; f‘ , disasselhbly, inspectan am reassembly ‘ Disassembly 1 Remove the forks (see Section 6). Always dismantle the lork legs separately to avnld interchanglng parts and thus causing all accelerated late of wear. Store all components ”1 separate. clearly malked containers (see illustratinns). 2 Sleeken the gaiter clamp screw(5) and slim the galter off the top of the lei-k. noting how in bottom end locates around the top 0! the M slider (see Illustration), 3 Before dlsmantling the fork. lt is advisable to slacken the damper led bolt now as theleb less Chance of the damper rotating wlth it (due tn the pressure or the spring). Compress the fork tube ln the slider so that the spring 6X8!“ maximum pressure on the damper head, then have an assistant slacken the bolt lrl the bite! at the fork slider (see illustration). 4 ll (ha lork top ball was not slackened with the folk in situ. carefully clamp IHE lurk tube in i lop bolt o-nng Space-re H to Ft {7987 (D 1995) models Spring seat — H to n (1937 to 1995) models Spring Piston ring mu. 8.1a Front fork components — XL models 7 Damper rod 8 Rebound spring 9 Folk tube to Bottom bush 1 1 Damper rod seat 12 Gailer 73 Dusl seal 14 Retaining clip 15 Oil seal is Washer 17 Top bush 18 Slider 19 Damper rod bolt and sealing washer 20 Oil drain bolt and sealing washer— H to H (1987 to 7995) models Frame, suspension and final drive 6-11 an: Front fork components - XRV models 1 Tap bolt 7 Spring seat 13 Dust seal 19 Damper rod Doll and 2 O-nng 5 Lower spring 14 Retaining clip sawing washer a Salter s Piston ring 15 Oil seal 20 011mm bolt and sealing 4 Fork tube 10 Damper md 16 Washer washer — L to s 5 Bottom bush 11 Rebuund spring 17 Top bush 11990 In 1995) models 5 Upper spring 12 Damper rod seat 13 Slider a vice equlpped with soft laws, taking care not to ovenighten or scale its surlace, and slacker} ihe mp balk (sea illustrafion 7.10). 5 Unscrew the tom lop ball (rum the top of ”12 fork mbe. Warning: The lurk spring is A pressing on (he lurk top ball with considerable pressure. Unscrew me bolt very carefully, keeping a downward mum an it and release It slowly as it Is Irkety ta spnng clear. It is advisable ta wear some form of eye and face protection when mnying out this operation. 9 Sflde the [ark tube down Into the sfider. On XLGODV-H (0 R (1987 lo 1995) mndelst 8.2 Remove the gain! 5.3 Slacken me damper rod bolt 6-12 Frame, suspension and final drive “u 3.10 Mse uul {he ramming cllp uslng : flat bladed screwdriver wilhdraw [he spacer. spring seal and the Spring lrurn (he lubed On XLEDDV-T ‘0 X (1996 to 1999) models and XLSSOV models. wilhdraw the Spring lrom the tube (see lllustratlon 7.12). On XRV750 models. withdraw the upper spring, spring sum and lower sprlng lrom the lube. Nate which way up lhe spring filsa 7 Invert ms iork over a sullabla container and pump the (ark lube vigorously to expel as much oil as possible (see Illustration 113) Support the fork upside down In the container lor a while [0 allow as much all as passibla to main. and pump lha lurk again. 6 Remove the prev-ously slackened damper rod boil and its supper sealing washer from the bottom of the slider (see illustration). Discard the sealing washer as a new one must be used on reassembly. Inven the fork and tip the damper rod out of lha (up Ol the lube. 9 Carefully prlse out me dUSl Seal lrom the 8.1‘3 To separate file fol‘k tube m ”I: Sllder, pull mm span firmly several tlmes . . . lop or the slider to gain access to the oil seal retaining clip (see Illustration). Discard the dust seal as a new one must be used 10 Carefully remove the retaining clip. laking care "0| to scratch the surlaca of the lube is-e lllustrmion). ll is advisable to compress the lork beforehand because Khan any accidental damage to the lube wlll be away lmrn its mam palm cl Contact with the seal. I1 To separate me lube lrom the slider ll is necessary to displace the oil seal and tap bush. The blmurn bush does not pass ”"0th the lap bush and this can be used to good reflect, Fush the lube genlly lnwards unlll it stops agalnst the damper seat. Take care no! N do lhls lorclbly or lhe seat may be damaged. Now pull the tube sharply outwards unlll the bottom bush strikes the log bush (see illustration). Repeal this operation until the top bush and seal are tapped out or the slider (see lllustraflon), 8.9 Prise out the dust seal using a "ll blldad screwdrlver 12 Whl’l the lube removed. slide 0” Illa all seal. washer and mp hush. noting which way up they in (see Illustration a.11h)r Discard the DH seal as a new one musl be used. Caution: Do not remove the bottom bush {rum the lube unless It Is to be mplaned. 13 Tip me dampar rod seat out ol lhe slid!- you may have la push it frurn the helium ya the damper boll hole (see illustration), Discard the Caring as a new one must be used. Inspection 14 Clean all pans in snlvefll and blow lllnm dry wllh Compressed air. If avallablav CllBCll the lork tube for score marksr scratches, llaklng ol the chrome finish and axnssslvs or abnormal waar. Look lor dents In me tube and replace the tube In both forks ii any are found Check lhe lurk seal seal lcr nicks gouges and scratches. ll damage is evident. leaks will occur. Also check the oil seal washer lcl damage or distonlon and replace ll ii necessary, 15 Check lhe fork lube for runoul uslng Vrblocle and a dial gauge. ll the amounl v1 runnut exceeds the service limit specified llll lube should be replaced. Warning: If the tube is be!" or A exceeds the runout limit. it should no! In sfralgmened: replscz It will a new ans. 16 Check the springs (the main spring, lilo rebound spring on the damper rod. and on xn'vvsn the upper Spring] tor cracks and other damage (see illustrsllon). Measure the main spring rree lenglh and compare lha meaaular 111D . . . [he slide-hammer enact wlll displaoe the Dll seal and bush ma Remove the damper red sea: «um "I! slider 5.16 Checklha compression spring(s)and rebound spring (anowed) Frame, suspension and final drive 6-13 5.178 This bush is worn «rent to the Speclllcallons at the beginning at the Chapter ll it is defective or sagged helpw llle eerviee limlt, replace the main springs ln both lurks with new ones. Never replace only me spring. l1 Examine the worklng surfaces of the two bushes: ii worn or scuited they must be replaced with new ones — they are worn lithe grey Teflon (zuallng has rubbed on to reveal the copper suriace (see illustration). Tn move the bottom bush from the lurk tube, prlse it apart at the slit using a rial-bladed screwdriver and slide it oft. Make sure the new one seats properly (see illustration). 18 Check the damper rod and its plslon ring lor damage and wear. and replace them with new ones if necessary [see illustration 3.18). DD nut remove the ring lrorn the tap at the rod unless it is being renewed. 3.1T!) Carefully letter the ends apart and slide "I: bush Dfl 5123552th 19 it removed, lit the piston ring Into the grnnve in the damper rod head, than slide the rebound spring unto the red (sea illustmtion 8.16). lnsefi the damper rod into the fork tube and slide it Into place so that it projects lully item the bottom at the tube (see Illustration). Fil the seat onto the boflom of the damper. then push the seal and rod up Into the tube (see illustrations). 20 Oil the lurk tube and bottom bush with the specliied lurk all and insen the assembly into the slider (see illumfinnlt HI 3 new copper sealing washer onto the damper rod bolt and apply a few drops or a suitable npn- permanent thread locking compound. then install the bolt ”110 the bottDm 0' the slider [see tllustretlpn). Tighten the bolt to the 5.19: Slide the damper de [mo the tube . . t specllied torque settlng (sla lllusuallenl. ll the damper rad rotates Inside the tube. temporarily install the lurk sprmgls), spacer where titted. and tap boll (see Steps 27 and 25) and compress the lurk to hold the damper rod Alternatively. a long mslai Dar uriengm or wood doweling (such as a broom h-ndie) pressed hard irlto the damper rod head quite omen suffices. Otherwise. wait until the (ark is fully reassembled before tightening the ball 21 Push the lurk tube fully into the slider, then all the top bush and Slide it down over the tube (see Illustration Press the bush squarely into its recess in the slider as iar as possible. then install the oil seal washer with its flat side facing up (see Illustration). Use either the Honda service too! (Ft. NOS. 07947‘ KASmDD and 07547-KF00100 (XL models) or D7947-KA4DZDU (XRV models» Ul’ a suitable 9.15m . . . so that it projects from the bottom. then (It the seat. .. 8.19:: . . t and push the assembly into the lube 8.202 Slide the tube Into the slider 9.20!) . . i then m the boil using lhreadlock and a new sealing washer . . . 5.201: , . . and tighten run the specified Marque 3.21: Install thc EDD bush . . . 6-14 Frame. suspension and final drive 5.2m lollowea by the washer piece uftubing to tap the bush iuliy into place; the tubing must be slightly larger in diameter than the fork tube and slightly smaller In diameter than the bush recess in the slider. Take care not to scratch the fork lube during this operation: wind insulating tape around the exposed length of tube. and push the tube lully inta the slider so that any accidental scratching ls caniined to the area which Is normally above the oil seal. A mm or punch can b5 used, but this does not help the bush enter squarely. and the angle narrows as the bush gets Usenet and makes it more difficult to make a good Contact with a hammer (sea illustration). it uslng a drift or punch. wrap tape around It to prevent It scratching the tuba. ‘lr a nuwlmsh l'a bulng HAVNES installed, plan» the old bush on top uf ma now an: to prime“! when driving itinta Place. 22 nemave the washer to check the bush is seated fully and squarely in its recess In the slider than wipe the recess clean. Rellt the washer. 2:: Smear ma seal's llps wlzrr fork all and slide it over the tube so that its markings lace 9.21: A drift can hit used in tip the bush into place upwards lsae Illustration). Press the seal Into the slider. then drive It fully into place as described in Step 21 until the retaining cllp groove is visible above it (see Illustration). HAVNES Place the old oil seal-1n flip of Ill. new one to pmtoct It when diving it Into place. 24 Once the seal ra currently seated, tit lhe retaining clip, making sure it is correctly located in its groove (see illustration). 25 Lubricate the Ilps ol the new dust seal then Slide It dawn the lork tube and press it Into position (see illustration). 26 Slowly pour in the speciliad quantity of the specified grade of turn all and pump the fork at least ten times tn distribute it evenly (see iilustratiun 7.14). Fully enmpress the fork lube and damper rod into the slider and measure the oil level, and make any adjustment by addlng more ortlpping some out unlil it is at the level specified at the beginning of the Chapter, 27 Clamp the slider in a soft-jawed vice using the brake caliper mounting lugs‘ taking care not to uvenignten and damage tnem. Pull the fork tube out at the slider as tar as possible 5.23 Smear the all saal with clean fork nil than slide it down the tube. Press l1 film the top of the ‘dar with ynur fingers, than drive it in as described then install the spring with its closenspacafl cells at the bottom (see illustration 7.1234 Oil XLSOOV-H to R (1987 to 1995] models. haw install the spring seal and the spacer. Oil XRV750 models. new install the spring seat and the Upper spring. 28 Fit 2 new O-ring to the lork tap bolt and thread the bolt into the top of the lork tubs (see Illustration 7.16). Warning: It will be necessary to A compress the spring by pressing it dawn using the top bolt to engage the threads vi the tap bolt with lit! font tune. This ls a patentially dangerous operation and should be pertamred willl cm, using an assistant Ir necessary. Wipr off any excess oil befcm starting to prevent the possibility of slipping. Keep the lork lube fully extended whilst pressing on the spring. Screw the top txllt carelully into the lork tube making sure it is not crossithreaded. Note: The top bolt can i» tightened to the specified torque settingal this stage if the tube is held between Illa padded jaws of a Vice, but 1210 "D! risk aisrcning the tube by doing so. A carter method is to fighter! the top bolt when the {M 8.2! install the retalnlng cllp . 3.25 . r . fallowed bythe dust seal l Frame, suspension and final drive 6'15 “ has been installed in the nlke and is securely him the bottom yoke. nHAVNE ”seam-erwhen i lnltall/ng the fork top but; m This makes It unnlcessary ta remove "19.10,!!! from the W1 hllst thwarting It in making it busier .ta mainuln a downward imumon the spring. 29 ii the damper rod bolt requires tlghtenlng lsae Step 2U), clamp the fork slider between the padded jaws or a vice and have an axlslant compress the tube into the Slider so hat maximum sprlng pressure ls placed on lite damper rod head ~ tighten the damper rod baltto the specified torque setting. 3) Fit the gallar onto the lurk, locating Its boflnm rim onto the lop at the fork slider (see Illustration), Ftotato the gaiter so that the breather holes are facing the back of Ihe fork (SIB illustration) On XFlV750 models tighten tile lower clamp. 81 install the forks [see Section 6), 0 steering removal gland installation ”1%“ Removal 1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). On XLEDUV and XHV750 mooels remove the 8.305 Fit the gamer, locating the bottom onto the top of the Slider . . . lairing side panels, and on XLGSOV models remove the lairing (see Chapter 3). This win prevent the possibility or damage should a tool slip. Also remove the front forks (see Section 6) and displace the handlebars (see Section 5). Note how the brake Pipe arrangement routes round the back at the right-hand lurk. lr required as a precaution, you can unscrew the brake master cylinder assembly Clamp Dolls and detach It lrorn the handlebars, then remove the entire tron! brake system from the bike. Unscrew the bolts securing the shield to the bottom yoke and remove it, noting how it fits, 2 ii the top yoke is being removed tram the bike rather than lust being displaced, trace the wiring him the lgnilion switch, and where fitted the HISS immobiliser receiver, and disconnect lt/mern a! the connectorls). 3 Unscrew the steering stem nut and remove the washer (see Illusn'ation). Lift the top yoke 9.3a Unscrew the nut and remove the washer . . . . . and the grease seal 3. 30b . . . and making sure the breather holes race the back up off the Steering stern and pasrtion it CiSElr. using a rag to protect the tank or other components if it is only belng displaced (see lllusn-alion). 4 Supporting the bottom yoke, unscrew the adjuster nut using either a C-spanner, a peg- spanner or socket, or a drilt located in one at the notches (see illustration). Remove the adjuster nut and tha grease seal lrom the steering stem [see illustration). Check the condition at the grease seal and discard it It |l ls damaged. 5 Gently lower the bottom yoke and steering stem out of the lrame (see illustration). Take cam not to strain or knock the brake hoses 6 Remove the inner race and hearing from the top or the steering head (see illustrations). Remove the hearing from the base or the steering stem (see illustration), Remove all traces of old grease lrom the bearings and races and check them lor wear 9.4a Unscrew and remove the adjuster nut . , . 9.5 Draw the bottom yokelsteering stem out of the steering head 9.6a Remove the Inner race . . i 6-16 Frame. suspension and final drive 9.6a Remove the lower hearing from the steering stem 9.1 13 slide the left-hand fork up through the yokes . . . or damage as described in Section 10. Note: Do not attempt to remove the races from the steering head or the steering stem unless they are to be replaced with new ones. Installation 7 Smear a liberal quantity or multiapurpose grease onto the bearing races. and work some grease well into bolh the upper and lower bearings. Also smear the grease seal ilp. using a new seal if necessary. Fit the lower bearing onto the steering stem lsee Illustration 9.6a). 8 Careluliy lift the steering Stem/bottDm yoke up through the steering head (see illustration 9.5). Fli the upper hearing and its Inner race into the top 01 the steering head (see illustrations 9.6b and 3). Fit install lhe grease seal lees illustration 9.4a). Apply some clean engine oil to the adiuster nut and thread the nut on the steering stem (see illustration 9,42). 9 It the correct tools are available, tighten the adjuster nut to the torque setting specified at the hsginning ol the Chapter, then turn the steering stern through its full lock at least live times and realignten the aoiuster nut to the specllleci setting. Ensure that the steering stem is able to move iraely from lock to luck toilewlng adjustment » If necessary reset the bearing adjustment as described In Chapter 1. 10 ii the correct tools are not available. tighten the nut using a C-spanner nr drift so that bearing play ls eliminated, but the steering stem is able to move freely Irorn lock to lock ~ rater to the procedure in Chapter l 9.11b . . . and tighten the steering stem nut to the specltled torque tor details. but note that setting the bearings Is a lot easier and more accurate alter the forks and wheel are installed as their leverage and inertia need to be taken lntO accounl (see illustration). Tu an it that way, make sure the nut is light enough in hold the steering stem in the head without any play, then install the forks and wheel, then rater to the procedure in Chapter 1. Caution: Take great care not to apply excessive pressure because this Will cause premature failure or the bearings. 11 When the bearings are correctly adjusted. lit the top yoke unto the steering stern (see Illustration 93b). then Install the washer and the steering stem nut and tighten it finger-tight (sea lllustntlon 9.3a). Temporarily install the iehahand lorh to align the top and bottom yokes. and secure it by tightening the bottom yoke clamp holl only (see illustration). Now lighten the steering stem nut to the torque . t ‘9 l > - 10.4a Drive the bearing races uut with a brass dritt . . . 9.10 Tighten the adjuster nut as described setting specllled at the beginning oi the Chapter (see illustration). 12 Install the remalnlng components In! reverse or the removal procedure. reierrl‘rlgttl the relevant Sections or Chapters. and to In! torque settings specified at the beginning at the Chapter. Note that you must install im- handlebars and secure the brake haseantl pIpe clamp bolts on the yokes balm installing t ans — If the lurks are installd Iirst it Is impossible to route the brake pipes around them. 13 Carry out a check at the steering head hearing treeplay as described in chapter l, and if necessary re-adlust. 10 Steering need bearings — Inspection and replacement Inspection 1 Remove the steering stem (see Section 9i» 2 Remove all traces of old grease from the bearings and races and check them tor wait or damage. 3 The outer races should be polished and tree from indentations. Inspect the hearing rollers (early models) or hells (later modelsiiol signs or wear, damage or discoloration. and examine their retaining cage for signs at cracks or splits. If there are any signs of want on any at the above components bottl upper and lower bearing assemblies must be renewed as a set, Only remove the Dull! rates in the steering head and the low bearing inner race on the steering stern it they need to be renewed — do riot remsa them once they have been removed. Replacement 4 The outer mces are an interference lit in the steering head and can he lapped tron position with a amiable unit (an Illustrations). Tap llrrnly and evenly around each race to ensure that it is driven mil squarely. It may prove advantageous to cum the end or the drift slightly to improve access 5 Altematively, the races can be removed using a slidesharnmer type bearing extractor these can Dfiei’l be hired lrom tool shops. Frame, suspension and final drive 6-17 STEERING HEAD BEARING RACE 10.41: . . . locating it as shown 6 The new outer races can be pressed into the head using a diawbolt arrangement [see Illustration). or by usmg a large diameter tubular drift, Ensure that the drawbolt washer ordnlt [as applicable) bears only on the outer sdge ol the race and does not contact the working surface. Alternatively. have the races installed by a Honda dealer equipped with tne bearing race installation tools. HAVNES Installation of new bearing outer races Is made much ‘ easier if tlw races are left overnight in the freezer. This nouns them to contract sIIgI-tly making mom a looser fit Alternatively, use a 1mm spray. 7 The lower bearing Inner race should only be moved Item the steering stem it a new one Is being tilted (see illustration). To remove lite race, use two screwdrivers placed on cpposlle sides to Work it freer using blocks or wood to improve leverage and protect me yoket or tap under it using a cold chisel. If the steering stem is placed on tls side on a hard surlacet thread a suitable nut onto the top to prevent the threads being damaged. it the i858 is firmly In place it will be necessary lo "sea puller (see Illustration]. 5 Remove the dust seal from the bottom OI Ihe Stem and replace it with a new one. Smmr the new one with grease, 9 Fit the new lower race onto the steering stem. A length of tubing With an internal diameter slightly larger then the steering stern will be needed to tap the new race Into DOSIIIOI'I (see illustration). 10 install the steering stem (see Section 9). 11 Rear shock absorber — removal, Inspection ”if? and Installation Warning: Du not attempt to A disassemble this shock absorber. It is nitrogen-charged under high pressure. Improper disassembly could result In serious injury. Instead, take the shock to a daaIer sen/ice department with are proper equipment to do the job. Removal 1 Support the motorcycle on its centreetand 10.5 Drawbolt arrangement tor fitting steering stern bearing racas i Lang mm or threaded bar 2 Thick Washer 17 Guide for luwer race if titted, or on an auxlliary stand that does not take the weight through any part at the rear suspension, Or by using a holslr Position a support under lne rear wheel or swingarrn so that it does not erp when the shock absorber is removed. but also making sure that the weight of the machine is 01f the rear suspensinn SO that the shock Is not compressed. 2 Make a note at which side the bolts 90 In "cm. and make a note at which way round the stluuk absorber Hts (Le. on XL650V and XRV750 models note which sum the reservoir is on). BEARING FULLER STEERING STEM mam t0.7a Remove the lower hearing Inner race . . . 10.11: . .. using a pulIer'tl necessary BEARING D IVER STEERING STEM m 10.9 Drive the new race on using a suitable bearing driver or a length at pipe that bears only against the inner edge of the race 6-18 Frame, suspension and final drive XLGOOV models 3 Remuve the right-hand side panel [see Chapter 8). 4 Unscrew xhe "UK and withdraw the bolt securing me linkage rods in me linkage arm, ihsn swing the rods down (539 illustration). Unscrew the nut and Withdraw me boll securing 1hs bonom oi the shock absomer lo the linkage arrn (see itlusmaliun). 5 Unscrew ”'18 "U1 0" the shack absorber upper mourning boll (see Illustration) Support the shock absorber. men wilndraw Ihe bolt and manoeuvre the shock out Of the bottom [sue illustrations). XLBSOV models 8 Remove the seal and the side panels (see Chaplin a). 7 Undu the screws securing the mud deflector jus‘ behind the shock abscvber and remove fl. Unscrew lhe nut and withdraw the bolt securing the bottom of tha shock absorber to lhe linkage arm (see lllustlaflon]. B Unscrew the nui on the shock absnrber uppev mounting bolt (see illustration). Support the shock absorber. than withdvaw the his" and manoeuvre Ihe shock out of the (EH-hand side of me bike. XRV750 models 9 Remove me side panels (see Chapter a). 1n Displace the luel pump from It: mount — there is no need to detach the hoses or dis- connect lne wiring connectnr (see illumiionl. 11.56 H . and remmle the shock abscrbei from [he bottom 11. 43 On XLBDW models unscrew the nut and wilhdraw me linkage ruds~to~arrn bull 11.41: Unscrew the nut and wimdraw the luwer mounting boll 11.53 Unscrew the nut on the hull (armwed) . . . Slacken the reservoir clamp screw and draw the reservoir am of the clamp (see illustration), 11 5h . . V then withdraw the hall. 11 Unscrew the nut and withdraw the boll securing the Ilnkage rods lo the llnkage arm. 11.7 On XLGSDV models unscrew the nu! (snowed) and withdraw "Ia Inwer mourning bolt 11.8 Unscrew (he nui (A) Ihen withdraw 1he ball (a) 11.10: 0n XRWsO models displace the luel pump lmm lls rnounl 11.1 on Slackan me clamp screw (mama) and draw me reservoir uul Frame, suspension and final drive 6-19 11.11 Linkage rods-to-mm bolt (A), shock absorber-to-linkaga arm bolt (5), linkage rods-to—Irame holt (C), llnkaga ammo- swingarrn hon (D) then swing the rods down (see illustration). Unscrew the nut and Withdraw the bolt securing the bottom or the shock absorber to the linkage arm. 11 Unscrew the nut on the Shock absorber upper mounting bolt (sea itiustratlon). Support the shock absorber, then withdraw the bolt and manoeuvre the Shack Dul ol the buttam. Inspection 13 inspect the shock absorber for obvious physical damage and the coil spring tor loaserissst cracks or signs at latigue. H Inspect the damper rod tor signs of banning, pitting and on leakage. 15 Inspect the pivot hardware at the top and bottom or the shock for wear or damage. oh XLWOV models the top bush is available 7 ramovs the old one and install the new one thing a press or drawbott arrangement (see tools and Workshop Tips in the Reterchce Section for turther information). On XLSSOV models remove lhe collars and seals to access the needle baarings in the top pivot. Ramnve the old one and install the new one using a press or drawholt arrangement (sea raw/s and Workshop fips in the Reference Section tor turther iniarmatian). l8 If the shock absorber on XLGODV medals Is In any way damaged or worn. it can be disassembled and the damaged or worn components replaced (see illustration). Disassemhiy oi the shock absorber requires ma use or a spring compressor. 11 With this in place an the spring. unscrew the adjuster Iocknut using a suitattie Cspanher aid thread it all the way up the threads and oft the shock absorber. Now mark the position or the adluster so It can be installed in the same place. than unscrEW and remove it in the same way. Draw the spring all the shock and release the compressor, 18 Measure the tree length of the spring and replace it with a new one it it is below the minimum specified length. If required. slacken the locknut on the lower mount. then thread the mount and the stopper plate off the rod. noting how the pin on the plate locates 11,12 Unscrew the nut (A) and wilhdraw the halt (5) against the cutout in the mount. Remove the spring guide and seat. and it required the locknut and rubber damper, noting how they all fit. H3271 E 11.16 Shack absorber components — XLBWV 1 Lock/rut 4 Spfing 2 Ad/usternm 5 Sprlng a Damperunit seat 6 Splrnggu/de 7 Rubber damper a Slopperplats 9 Locknut 10 Lower mount 6-20 Frame, suspension and final drive Correcl alignment of lower mount with peg H32720 1 1.20 Shock absorber components - XHV750 r Loclmu! 4 Seal 7 Damperunlt 2 Adjusternur 5 Spn'ngseei a Rubberdamper 3 Spring 5 Springgulde 9 Loclmul 19 On XLGSDV models individual com- ponenls are not available for the shock absorber, so if it is worn or damaged it must be replaced wim a new one. 20 On XRV750»L to N (1990 to 1992) [he Shock absorber can be disassembled and components renewed in ma same way as for ma XLeoav (see Step 8] (see Illustration). On all other XHV750 deels individual com- panems are not available. 21 Honda advlse that (he pressurised miregen gas should be released belore discarding the shock absorber. Take the shock absorber to a Honda dealer for disposal - do not enemy! gas dispersal yourseu. Installation 22 Installation Is the reverse oi remuval. noting the lollowing: 0 Apply mum-purpose grease lo Ihe shock absorber and linkage plate pivot points OOn XLGDOV and XRVVSD-L (0 N (i990 i0 l992) models insiali (he shock absorber Wlkh m Sloppelplare 1 1 Lower mount the breaiher lube racing me imnr. 0 On XL65DV models make sure the resolver Is on the left—hand Slde. .On XRV7507P models onward [1983mm make sure the reservoir hose is on me Ml, and on [he righl on all other XRV models. 0 DO no! lighten the nuts until both bolts [ur all components if the suspension linkage has been removed as well) are in Dositicn. man tighten mam tn the torque settlng specified :1 the beginning or the Cnapier. Fran'le, suspension and final drive 6-21 i‘12 noar’siisiianaion Iinkhfie l iemaval,’l ion i and installation § Removal 1 Support the motorcycle on its cerimland il med, or on an auxiliary Stand ihat does not lake liie weight through any pan of the rear suspension, or by using a hoist. Position a supouri under the rear wheel or swingarin so M I! does rlol drop when Iris shock absorber is removed. but also making sure that the weight or the machine is olf the rear suspension soltiat the shock is not compressed. Make a riots of which side the baits go in lram. 20h XLGGOV models unscrew the bolts securing the brake hose channel to the underside or (he swingarm on the nghl-hand side and displace ll (see “lush-noon). 3 0n XLGSOV models unscrew me bull securing \he chain guide lo the flame on the lefl-hand side and remove It. noting now it ms. 4 On XHWSDAL to N (1990 to 1992) models unscrew the bolt securing the drain hose guide to the frame on (he IerHiand side and remove it. rioting now it lits. 5 Unscrew me nuts and Withdraw the bolts securing Iris linkage components to each omen the shock absorber, (he swingaml and lhs lrame. noting which way round and how may ill [see illuslrauons 11M and b, 125a. bind O, and 11.11). It IS bBSl ‘0 mark the lop nrside of the linkage arm and rod so thal it can be Installed the same way round. 0n XLSOUV and XHV750 models they may already he marked. bul wherher (he marks are Visible lsznolher matter. inspection a Withdraw the spacers lmm the linkage arm and swingarm. noting any difference in sizes. lnen lever am the graase saals (see lllil-tratlonsl. Thoroughly clean all wrnponenrs. removing all traces of dirt. corrosion and grease. 7 lrlspecl all components closely. looking lor obvious signs of wear such as heavy scoring. in for damage such as cracks or dlsrorllon. 122 Unscrew ma bolts (mama) and displays (he hose guard r . 125:: . . . and remove the llrikage componems Slip each spacer back into Ks bush or hearing and check that there is not an excessive amount or frasplay between the two components. Renew any components as required. 8 On XLSUOVrH and J (1987 and 1988) models check me condition of the bushes in (he linkage am‘l and rod. Measure lhe imemal diameler oi the bush sleeve and the axrernal diameter 0' the spacer ma! file In It and renew any components that are worn beyond the service limit specltiea at the beginning or the Chapter. 5 On all other models check [no condition or “15 needle roller bearings (see Illustration). Rater to Tools and Workshop Tips (Section 5) in the Relerence Secklan lur more lnlol'rnafiorl on bearlngs. 12.5a Unscrew the nuts. withdraw the bolts . . . 12.52: suspension linkage assembly bans larrowed) - XLssov 10 Worn bushes or bearings can be drifled out or their bares, but nme that remuval will destroy (hem: new bearings should be obtained herons work commences. The new bushes or bearings should be pressed or drawn into kheii' bores ralher than driven into posilinri. In lhe absence of a press. a suitable drawbolt tool can be made up as described in Tools and Workshop Tips in the Relerence section. Sal lham centrally in (heir bores. 11 Check the condition or the grease seals and renew them ii lhey are damaged. delorrned or deteriorated. Lubricate IriE needle bearings. spacers arid seals With multi» purpose grease (saa illustratlnn). 12 Press the seals squarely lrilo place [see illustration). Inslall the spacers (see Illustration IZEa). 12.6h . . . and lover out the grease seals 12.9 Check the needle bearings tar wear and damag- 6-22 Frame. suspension and final drive 12.11 Smear the bearings with grease Installation 13 Instalia'icri IS the reverse of removal. Apply multl-purpose grease to the bearings. spacers and bolts. Where marked, install the linkage arm with the arrow Delure the FR ur FRONT mark pointing to the (rent, and the linkage red with the marked side racing up [598 illustraflon). Install the bolts and nuts ringerrtighl only until all components are in pusitlari. then countermold the bolts and tighten the nuts securelyl 13 Suspension _ adjustments WWW Front forks 1 0n XRV750-L [a S (1930 (D 1995) mudels only. the forks are alrrassisted and the air pressure Cari be varied Will'lll’i lhe Specified range (see Specifications) The air valve is incorporated in the top bolt 0' each lurk. 2 To check the air pressure use a gauge which is suitable for reading low pressures: do no! use a tyre pressure gauge. Gauges and hand~ooerated pumps are available for suspension system use 1112: Press the grease seals in . , . 3 Ensure that all weight is off the iront suspansinn when the air pressure is checked. Place the molprcycle on an auxiliary stand so that the tram Wheel is ('inK the ground. Take care not to lncrease air pressure beyond the range , excess pressure will damage the icrk oll seals , and ensure that the pressure in both ions is squat Rear shock absorber Spring pre-luad - all madels 4 Slacken the adjuster lockring using a suitable Gspanner (see illustration). New thread the adjuster up or down as requiredj again using the Cvspanner , thread it up to decrease prerload or lower the ride height and down to increase pre-Ioad or raise the ride height. 5 Make sure you stay within the adjustment limits as defined by the installed length of the spring according to the Specifications at the beginning 01 the Chapter. Tighten the locknut securely against the adjuster on completion. Compression damping — XLGSDV madels E Adjustment is made using a "at bladed screwdriver via the aperture in the leflrriarid side panel (remove the side panel ror 12.12h . . . using a hammerand pinueof waod il‘ necessary 1&1: Make sure any directional arrows point torwards improved access - see Chapter 8) (as: illustration) Turn the adjuster clockwrse in increase damping tor a lirrner ride. and lurn ll anti-clockwise lo iepuce camping tor a sorter ridel 7 To set the damping at the standard (facinry set) amount. turn the adjuster clockwise until it lightly seats (do not torce it). then turn it arill- clockwise approximately one iull turn until the punch marks on the adjuster and the reservoir body are aligned — remove the side panel [see Chapter 8] to make lhe punch marks easlel in see. 1 3.4 Slackan the lockmrt (Al and turn the adiusler (a) as required r _ we > , , 13.6 On stsav models, adjust cumpressinn damping via the aperture (armwedl Frame, suspension and final drive 6-23 (arrowad).. 14,2!) . . . even me hldden onus — XLSDOV shown 14.2: On XLESW models relnasa the hos. from its Quid-as I433 Chalnguard bolts (Irrawad) - XLGOUV l4! Swingar removal and installation If”? Bamoval 1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7). (Unscrew the bollls] securlng each rear brake hose gulde lo the swlngarm [see llluslrations), or release the hose lrom its wldzsl according to model (see illummlion). Note the routing of the brake hose around the lehgarm as an ald to lnslallallon, Displace mavear brake caliper and brackel assembly llom the swingarm (there ls no need to dlsmnrlect the brake hose). nmlng now It mates and how lha hose mums. and {is i! fa me llama. makmg sure no slraln ls placed on lbs hoses (see illustration), 8 Unscrewlhe bolts securing the chain guard lolhe swingavm and remove the guard. notlng mu locales (see Illuminations). QSuppcn the swingarm. then unscrew the llut and withdraw the bolt securlng the slspenslon Ilnkage arm to the swlngarm (see Winn 12.55:, 125:: or 11.11). 6 Remove the swmgarm plvol caps Unscrew me nut an the right-hand and of the swingarm plvol ball and remove the washer (if lined) ls» lllustration). Support the swlngarm then wlmdmw the plvol halt mm the lefivhand side (sac tllustmtlanl Manoeuws the swingarm clw ol the shock absorber and out 0! the frame (sea illuafialiun). 14.3!) Gnalnguard bolts (arrowed) - XRV‘ISCI 6 Remove the chaln slider from lha swingalm if necessary noting how ll fils (see Illustration). If it Is badly worn or damaged (see Chapter 1. Section 1). it should be 1456 ...wmldralllhsbnfi... 14.53 Remove the swmgaml pivot cap to access the pivot ball head and nut (snowed) replaced with a new onev Inspect all plvol Dumponenm for weal a! damage as warmed In Section 15 “.59 .4 , and remove the swingarm 6°24 Frame, suspension and final drive 14.6 Remove the chain slider [arrowed) it required 14.3 Do nctforgetthe collar-(s), where titted Installation 7 Remove the dust cap and/0' collar (where lined according to model) irom each swingarrri pivot, than withdiaw the spacers' notlhg what tits where (sea illustrations). Clean ofl all old grease, then lubricate the grease seals. bearings, collars, spacers and mo pivot bolt wiin mum-purpose grease. insert Ihe Spacers. then lit the colials arid/or caps according to model. B it removed. install the chain slider. making sure it locates correctly. then lit the collar(sl and tighten the screw(s) securely (see Illustration). 8 Otter up the swihgarm and have an assistant hold it in place (see illustration 14.56). Make sure the drive chain Is looped over the 1mm oi xne swingarm and me brake hose is correctly routed as riotsd on removal. Slide the pivot bolt through from the left-hand “.9 sii um pivot bolt through en. swingann side and push it all the way through (sea Illustration). 1D Fit the washer (where removed) and the nut (see Illustration “sci Counter-hold the head at the pivot ball and tighten the nut to the SDGCIfied torque setting (see Illustration). 11 Align me swingarm With me suspension linkage arm, the" install the hon and tighten the nut securely (see lilustrafion 12.53. 12.56 or 11.11). Fit the pivot caps. 12 insleii the chain guard. making sure ii locates correcily, and tighten me bolts securely (see Illustration 15.14, 14.3: and 14.32). 13 Fit the rsar brake caliper and bracket assembly onto the swingarm. making sure li locates correcily and me hose is correctly muted (see illustrations) Fit the brake hose guides and lighten their bolts securely (see Illustrations 1‘23, b and I3). 14.133 Make sure the brake caliper locales correctly (arrows) - xusoov 14.131: Make sum the brake caliper locates currecfly (arrow) - XL650V 14.") . . . and withdraw the spacer - XLGDOV Shawn , is 14.11! Tighten the pivel bolt nut to the specified torque 14 Install the rear wheel (see Chapter?) 15 Check and adjust the drive chain slack (see Chapter 1). Check the operation of liin rear suspension and brake before taking "in machine on the road. 15 Swingarm - § .lnspsction, bearing check \ and replacement % Inspection ‘ 1 Remove the swmgarm (see Seclioh l4). Remove the chain adiusters If required, holllig how they tit, especially the UP mark on XL models (see Illustration) 2 Thoroughly clean lhe swingarm. removing all "aces oi din. corrosion and grease. 3 Inspect the swingarm closely. lunklnglfll ma. 14.13c Make sure me brake caliper looms correctly (arrows) - XRwso Frame, suspension and final drive 6'25 mvlous signs oi wear such as heavy scoring. Ind cracks or dlstomon due to aCCIdenl carriage. Ally damaged or worn component max his replaced. 0 Check the swingonn plvm oolt for mightness by rolling it on arlat surlace such as a piece or plate glass (rim wipe elf all old grease and remove any corrosion using wire moilt lithe pivot bolt is bent, renew it. Searlng check and replacement 5 Remove the dust cap and/or collar {where tilled according t0 model) from each swlngarm plvot. then withdraw the spacers. liming whal tits where (see Illustra'flons “J- lrld t7). Lever out the grease seals (see illustration). Clean off all Old grease. I Pieter to Tools and Workshop Tips (Section 5) ill the Reterence section and shack the hearings — ooth caged ball bearings and needle bearings are titted. XLGOOV models have two needle bearings In each pivot. XLESUV models have two caged ball bearings separated by a spacer and secured by a diclip in the right-hand pivot and a needle hearing In the |eft>hend plvot. XHV750 models lilve two needle hearings in the right-hand pivot and a needle bearing and two caged oall Bearings separated by a spacer and secured by a circltp in the leli-hand pivot. lclean the bearlngs and inspecl them ior wear or damage [see Illustration). it they do lint run smoothly and ireely or it there is massive ireeplay. they must be replaced wiih new ones , reler to the Retererlce Section lor removal and installation methodsi this caged oali bearingis) are held by a dicilp and separated by a spacer. The needle tieaiingisl must he renewed it removed — they unrlot be reused. Measure the depth in the nillat that each bearing is set at and set the new hearings to the same depth. 9 Check the Condition oi the grease seals and iaplace them Wltil new ones it they are damaged. deturmed Dr deteriorated (see ilklilraflcl'l). in Lubricaie the grease seals. hearings, collars and spacers with multi-purpose Waste. insert the spacers. then til the callers slid/or caps according to model (see illustrations 1A.7h and a). . Drive chain — \ | removal. cleaning K . , . K i and Installation K ilote: The original equipment drive chain fitted ioXLfiaO-H to H (1987 to 1995) models and Xiiwso-L to N (1990 to I992) models is an arid/ass chain, which means It doesn’t have a spill link and Maritime cannot be split. lien-lava! FeqLileS the removal or the swingarrn. However it is quite possmle that the Mdless chains have been replaced by stakedr ink Chains as fitted to all other modeis, so make sure you identify the type of chain you love and select the relevant procedure. Such .. ,1: 15.1 Note how and which way round the Chain adjusters (It - XL type shown chains can he recognised by the master iink side piate's identification marks (and usually its different colour). as well as by the staked ends oi the iinh’s two pins which look as it they have been deeply centrerpunched. instead 0! peened over as with all the other pins. The original equipment drive chain lifted to all other models has a staked atype master homing) link which can be disassembled using either Honda service tool. Pi. No. O7HMH- Mhlulos. or one 0! several commercially- available drive chain cutting/staking tools. Warning: NEVER install a drive A chain which use: a clip—type master (split) iln k. Endless chains Removal 1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7). and the swingenn [see Section i4). 2 ii the sprockets are also being renewed. remove the tram sprocket [see Section 17i. then remove the chain Otherwise. remove the trout sprocket cover (see Section 17) and slip the Chain 0" the Sprocket and remove it iron! the bike. Cleaning 3 Snak the chain in kerosene (paraffin) tor approximately live or six minutes. then clean it using a sgtt brush. Caution: Don't use gasoline (petrol). solvent or other cleaning fluids which might damage its internal sealing properties. Don’t use high-pressure water. Remove the chain, wipe it art, than blow dry it with compressed air Immediately. 15.5 Lever out the seals . . . The entire process shouldn't take longer than ten minutes — irit does, the o-n‘i-igs in the chain rollers can!!! be damaged. Installation 4 installation is the reverse or removal. On completion edlust and lubricate the chain iollowing the procedures described in Sec~ lion 1. staked-link chains Removal Warning: NEVER install a drive A chain which uses a clip—type master (split) link. Use ONLY the current service tools to secure the staked- typo of master link — il you do not have access to such tools. have the chain replaced by a dealer service department or bike repair shop to be sure or having it securely Installed. 5 Locate the ialnlng link In a suitable posltlorl to work on by rotating the back wheel Slackerl the drive chain as described in Chapter 1. 6 Unscrew the bolts securing the chain guard to the swingarm and remove the guard. noting how it locates (sac Illumations 14.3a and b), 7 Remove the front sprocket never (see Secllon17). 3 Split the chain at the iolning link using the chain cutter. following oarelully the manuiacttiner's operating instructions (see also Section B in Tools and Workshop Tips in the Reference Section). Remove Ihe chain from the hike, noting its routing around the swingerm. 15.7 ”And check the hearings 15.9 Use new grease seats it necessary 6-26 Frame, suspension and final drive 16,14 Make sun the ch correctly (arrow) - stoov type shown Cleaning ii Relerto step 3. lnstallatiun guard locates Warning: NEVER install a drive A chain which uses a clip—type master (split) link. It you do not have access to a chain riveting toul, have the chain fitted by a dealer service department. to Fit the drive chain around the swingerm and sprockets. leaving the two ends In a convenient position tu work Girl. 11 Reler to Section 6 in Tools and Wormhap Tips in the Reference Section. Install the new lolning link train the Inside with the four O-rings correctly located between the link plate and side plate. Install the new side plate with its Identification marks lacing out. Measure the amount that the loining link pins praiact horn the side plate and check they are within the measurements specified at the beginning oi the Chapter. Stake the new ilnk using the drive chain cutting/staking tool. following carefully the inslmcrlons at both the chain marluiflmurer and the tool manufacturer. Do NOT re—usa old ioining link components. 12 After staking. check the joining link and staking ior any signs at cracking. ii there is any evidence at cracking. the joining link. O-rlngs and side plate must be replaced. Measure the diameter at the staked Ends in two directions and check that it is evenly staked and within the measurements specified at the beginning oi the Chapter. 13 install the sprocket cover (see Section 17). 14 install the chain guard. making sure it locates correctiy. and tighten the bolts securely (see illusmlion and 14.35 and o). 15 On completion. edlust and lubricate the chain toliowing the procedures described in Chapter 1. 11 Sprockets- § ,, check and replacement § .‘K check 1 Unscrew the gearchange lever pinch bolt and slide the iever alt the shalt. noting the alignment at the punch mark an the gearchange shaft end with either the punch mark on the lever or with the slit in the lever clamp (according to model) (see illustration u). it no marks are visible make your own so that the lever can be installed in the correct position straight away. 11.2 Unscrew the bolts iarroweol and remove the cover 17. 7 Unscrew the two butts. then turn tha plate as deGthed and draw It Off the shaft 17.93 Draw the sprocket oft the shaft . . . 17.9!) . . . and disengage it from the chain 2 Unscrew the bolts securing the iron sprocket cover and iemove the cover. and till XL650V and XRV750 models the drive chalii guide plate (see illustration), 3 Check the wear pattern on both spmukeis (see Chapter 1. Section 1). if the spicckat teeth are worn excessively. replace the chalii and both sprockets as a set. Whenevei thl sprockets are inspected. the drive ctia‘n should be Inspected also (see Chapter till you are renewing the chain. renew mt sprockets as well. ‘ Adjust and lubricate the chain following in! procedures described in Chapter 1. Replacement Front sprocket Keep your old‘ from spmelitf HAYNES Kcenbeusedalpngwltli’ m a hailing tool in loathe transmission input slinfl s‘liburd ynu ever need to remove the clutch (m Chimera. ' 5 Unscrew the gearchange lever pinch mi and slide the lever 0ft the shaft. noting thl alignment of the punch mark on the gearcnange shalt end with either the punch mark on the lever or with the slit in the Im clamp (according to model) (see illustration 3.8). ti no mane are visible make your own an that the lever can be installed in the com position straight away. 6 Unscrew the bolts securing the troll sprocket cover and remove the cover. and till XLGSDV and XRWSO models the drive (mall guide plate. 7 Have an assistant apply the rear brake. Unscrew tha sprocket retainer plate Dolls. then rotate the plate in its groove in the shall so that the splines are misaligned. and slick the plate off the shaft (see illustration). 5 Siacken tine drive chain as described in Chapter 1. 9 Slide the sprocket and chain Oif the shell and slip the sprocket out or the chain lsllc Illustrations). 1D Engage the new sprocket with the chili. making sure the marked side is lacing out. and slide it on the shall (see illustrations 17.9h and I). Take up the slack in the chain. 17 11a Fit and align the, retainer plate" Frame, suspension and final drive 6-27 l 11 Slldfl the sprocket retainer onto the shaft l and align it with the groove across the shaft splines [see illustration 17.7). then turn the plate so its splines align wlth those on the shaft. thereby locking it on the shalt. and so Illa bolt holes align (see illustration). Apply a nonvpemtaneht lhreadlock to the bolts and tighten them to the spociliect torque setting. using the rear brake to prevent. the sprocket lllmlng (see lllus1rallnri) ‘2 0n XLBSUV and XRV750 models lit the wide plate. Fit the sprocket cover and tighten lls bolls (see illustration). Slide the geachange lever onto the shaft. aligning it as noted on removal. and lighten the pinch bolt securely (sea illustration 3.8). Adjust and lubricate the chain toilcwtnq the procedures described in Chapter 1. Rear sprocket ta Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7) ll On XL models. unscrew the nuts and bolts securing the sprocket to the hub assembly. and remove the washers (see Illustrltiori). Remove the sprocket. rioting which way round it fits. Fit the sprdckat onto Illa hut: with the stamped mark lacing out. lubricate the threads of the bolts with oil. 17.12 Install the sprocket cover Install the bolts and the nuts with their washers, and tighten the nuts evenly and in a crisscross sequence to the torque setting specified at the beginning afths Chapter. 15 On XRV models. unscrew the nuts securing the sprocket to the huo assembly. Remove the sprocket. rioting which way round It fits. Check that the studs are tight in the hub — it any are loose. remove them all using the Correct tools. then Clean their threads. apply a suitable thread-locking compound. than fit them back into tha hub and tighten them securely. Flt the sprocket onto the hub with the stamped mark facing out. Litbricate the threads and seats at the nuts with all. Install the nuts and tighten them evenly and In a cuss-cross sequence to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter. 16 Install the rear wheel (see Chapter 7), 13:. Rearfspmckat . ' wupllnglrubbar dampers - ‘ check and replacement ”1%“ 1 Remove ths rear wheel (see Chapter 7]. 17.14 Rear sprocket halts (arrowod) ~ XLGOW shown Caution: Do not lay the wheel down on the disc as It could become warped. Lay the wheel on wooden blocks so that the disc is off the ground. 2 Lift the sprocket coupling away irom the wheel leaving the rubber dampers in position (see illustration). Note the spacer lnstde the coupling — it should be a tight it but remove it it it is likely to drop out. check the coupling tor cracks or any obvious signs oi damage. Also check the sprocket studs for wear or damage. 3 Lirt the humor pamper segments lrom the Wheel and check them lor cracks. hardening and general deterlorallon (see illustration). Renew them as a set it necessary. 4 Check the Condition at the hut: Ornng and replace It with a new one it It ls damaged. deformed or detarloratsd (see Illustration). 5 Checking and replacement procedures lar the sprocket coupling bsarlrig are described in Chapter 7. 5 Installation is the reverse 0‘ removal. Make sure the spacer I3 stlll correctly installed in the coupling. or install it it it was removed. 7 Install the rear wheel lsee Chapter 7). 15.2 Lift the sprocket cuuplin wheel 18.4 . t r and 1h: O-rlng Chapter 7 7‘1 Brakes, wheels and tyres Contents Elaks drum and discs (lrcnt and rear) — Inspection. removal and lnsisllatlon ........ Blake fluid level check see Dally [Dre-ride) checks Blake light swnches * check and replacement ........ see Chapter 9 Blake pads and shoes 7 replacement . Blake pads arid shoes wear check. . Blake hoses and unions nspeclion and replacement Brake system bleeding . 10 Blake system check ..... see Chapter 1 Front brake caliper(s] — removal. overhaul and Installation ....... see Chapter 1 9 Rear brake caliper r (emovall overhaul and installation eeeeee Rear brake plate assembly removal overhaul and insmilaflon . Rear brake master cylinder — removal. overhaul and Installation Rear wheel — remuval and installation . Tyres general inlormation and lining Tyres — pressure. tread depth and mndilion .......... Wheels general check Wheel neanngs check. Wheel bearings— removal, inspectlon and Installation mummm 1 .l see IDaily (arenas) chech see Chapter 1 see Chapter 1 . 15 Front brake master cylinder a removal. averhaui and installation. Wheels allgnmeul check. I 12 anl wheel _ removal and installation l Wheels a Inspection and repair . l 11 (‘xansral information , Degrees of difficulty Esmsuliabielor K measy,51.lltable § Famdffimlt, § Diffiwlteu'neblefor 3% Van/difficult. § limicew'mlltfle 3% forbeginnerwim K mieloromnpelenle‘ experienced DlY K suitablelorexpetDlYK emieice % sorneexpenence § DlYmedianic § mechanic § orpmieuonal § Spec1fications Brakes — XLGOOV-H to L (1987 to 1990) models Blake fluid lype ............................................ DOT 4 Fronl callper bore ID Slanoard 80.230 to 30250 mm Service limll 30 29 mm Frunl callper piston 0D Standard ,. 30.148 to 307199 mm Sewlce Ilmll r 80.14 mm anl master cyllnde Standard. , 12.700 to 121743 mm Service limit l 1276 mm From master cylinder piston 01: Slandard. . 12.657 to 12554 mm eemae Ilmll 12.55 mm Flunl disc lhicknass Standard .......................................... 415 mm Service Irmlt . 3.5 mm From dlsc maximum runoui . . 0.3 mm Rear brake shee lining thickness 2 mm minimum Hear drum ID Standaru.,. . 130mm Service limit 131 mm 7-2 Brakes, wheels and tyres Brakes — XLGOOV-M to P (1991 to 1993) models Brake iIUId type .......................................... From caliper bare ID Standard . Service limit . . From caliper piston on Slandard. . Service iim . Front master cylinder bore ID Standard . Servme llmii . From master cylinder piston OD Standard . Sewice Ilrnit Rear caliper bore ID Standard . Service Iim Rear caliper pision GB Standard Service limit . Rear masier Cyiinder Dare ID Standard Service limit. Rear masier cylinder pismn on standard Service limit . Disc (nicknass (from and tear) Standard . Service DISC maximum runoui. Brakes — XLSDOV-R to T (1994 (a 1996) models Brake Fluid rype ........................................... From caiiper bore ID Standard . Servloe ilm , From caliper plslon' OD Shandard Service limli . . From masier cylinder bore ID Standard . . Service llm . Fiunl masier cylinder pisinn OD Standard , . . . Service Ilmii . Rear caliper bore ID Standard ............................................... Servicelirriii . .. .. Hear caliper Dish)” GB Standard . Service llm Rear master cyiindar bore ID Standard . . . . . . Service limit. Rear masiar cylinder piston OD Standard. . . Sen/ice Iimii ...... Disc thickness (from and rear) Standard . . . . . . Service Ilmit. . . Disc maximum runou . Brakes — XLGOOV-V to X (1997 to 1999) models Brake iluid type . ......................................... From caliper imre ID Standard . Service lim . DOT 4 301230 to 30.280 mm 30.29 mm 30.14810 30. ISQ mm 3014 mm 11.0001011040mm 11.05mm 10.8501010910 mm 10.84 mm 33.180 I0 33.230 mm 3824 mm 38.115i038.148 mm 35.11 mm 145001014043 mm 14.05 mm 13.957io13.994 rnm 13.95 mm 4.8 ta 5.2 mm 4.0 mm 0.3 mm DOT 4 27.000 in 27.050 mm 2699 mm 26.935 to 26.955 mm 26.9? mm 110001011043 mm 1105 mm 10957“: In 934 mm 10.95 mm 38.18010 33.230 mm 38 24 mm 38.115 (036.148 mm 38.11 mm 14.000to144043 mm i4.05 mm 131957 to 13.984 mm 13.95 mm 4.5 [u 5.2 mm 4.0 mm 0.3 mm DOT 4 30 230 to 50.280 mm 3029 mm Brakes - XLGDIJV-V to x (1991 to 1999) models (continued) anl caliper pislun on Smudam . . Sen/Ice limit anl master cylinder bore ID Standard . Sawice Ilmll From master cylinder p o Slandard . Service llmli. Wm disc thickness Siandald . . Service llmll . Flam disc maximum rllnonl Baal caliper bare ID Standard . . Sewice limit Real caliper piston on Standard. Service llmli. Rear master cyll‘n er me Slandard. Service limli Rear masler cyllnder piston on Standard. Service llmii Real disc thickness Sundard . . Sen/ice limil . Mdlsc maximum runuu Brakes - XL650V models Erake fluid type ......................... . ................ From caliper bore ID Uppa acre Standard Sewlne llmii , Law-3r bare Standard Servicelimll... From caliper piston OD Upper plslon Siandard . Sawlce Ilmll. From master cylindal bore ID Slandard . Service limit From master cylindel piston OD Standard. Service Ilmli . Flam disc thickness Slandard Service limit Film disc maximum runout ‘ Rear caliper bore 10 Standard . . Sen/ice limit . Rear caliper plsion on Standard. Sewlce llfl’li . Rear masts! cylinder bore lD Standard . Sewlce llmli ‘ llaar masts: cyllnd r plsion:OD Standard Service llmil . 30.148 lo 30.199 mm 30.14 mm 12,700 to 12 743 mm 12.76 mm 12.657 Io 12.634 mm 12.65 mm 4.5 mm 3.5 mm D 3 mm 38.18010 38.230 mm 38.24 mm 33.115 to 33143 mm 38.11 mm H.000 to 14.043 mm 14.05 mm 13.95710 13.934 mm 13 95 mm 4.3 to 5.2 mm 4.0 mm 0.3 mm DOT 4 Not available 32.040 ml" Not available 30.0110 mm Not available 31.910 mm Not available 29.910 mm Not available 13.043 mm Not available 12.955 mm 4.5 mm 3.5 mm 0.3 mm 33.180 (a 38.230 mm 38.24 mm 38.00310 38.148 mm 38.09 mm 14.00010 14.043 mm 14.055 mm 133571013354 mITl 13,945 mm Brakes, wheels and tyres 7-3 7-4 Brakes, wheels and tyres Brakes - XL650V models (continued) Rear disc thickness Standard Service limit Rear disc maximum mnout Brakes — XHV750 models Brake fluid type . Front cailpal bare "3 Standard . . Service iimit Fvonl caliper plsion 00 Standard . . . . Sen/ice ilmil . Front master cyllnder bore iD Standard ............................................... Service llmll ............................................. anl masler cylinder piston OD Standard . 4 Service limit From disc thickness Standard . . Service limit From disc maxrmum runoui . Rear caliper bare lD Standard . . Service Ilml Rear caliper plsmn on Siandard . Servlce limit Rear master cyan er are D Standard . . Service limit Rear master cylinder pismn on Standard . . Service Iimil . Hear disu thickness Standard ..... . ....................................... Service limit vvvvvvvvv Hear dlsc maximum runoui . Wheels Maximum wheel rumour (from and rear) Axial is;de-lc»side) ..................................... Radial (out—oi—vound) ........... Maximum axie runoul (from and rear) Tyres Tyre pressures ......................................... Tyre Sizes' XL models Fronl . . Rear. XHV750— L to N (1990 m 1992) models Front ................. Rear .................. XRV750

‘ ‘ 52 Slide tho clllper all the bracket 19 Slide the caliper Onto the disc making sure the pads locate on each side (so: Illustration). Apply a suitable non-permanent thread-locking compound to the mounting bolts and tighten them securely. 20 ll detached. connect the brake hose to the caliper. using new sealing washers on each Side 0' the fitting Align the hose as noted on removal (sea illustration 4.1). Tighten the banjo bolt to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter. 21 Fit the brake hose Into its clamp on lhe lrurlt fork and secure it with the ball. 22 Fill the master cylinder reservoir with DOT A brake lluld [see Dally {pmrl‘de} checks) and bleed the hydraulic system as described in Sectlon 10. Z! Check for lBakS and thoroughly test the operation 0' the brake before riding the motorcycle. an: , . i and the pad gulde (snowed) 5 Roar hralte caliper— renilwal, overhaul and installation Warning: If a caliper Indicalu III: A need for an overhaul (usually due to laaklng fluid or sticlw' operation), all old brake fluid should be flush-d from the system. Also. tho dim (”Ballad by the brake system may 00an asbestos, which is harmlul to your lllilllll. Never blow It out with compressed alralld don‘t inhale any 0" I1 Ari appmvati ”new mask should no worn when working on im brakes. Do not. under any circumstances use petroleum-based solvents to oluli brake parts. Use clean brake fluid. brain cleaner or denatured alcohol only. Removal 1 If the caliper is [not being olspieoerl anulwi completely removed or overhauled, do not, disconnect the brake hose. ll the callperls belng completely removed or ovarhaulull, remove the brake hose banjo bolt arid detach the hose. noting the alignment With the calipu (see Illustrations). Plug the hose and orwrarl ‘ a piesiic bag tightly around to minimise lluid loss and prevent diri entering the system. Discard the sealing washers as new one: must be used on installation, Note: If youars planning to overhaul the caliper and don't have a source or compressed air to blowout the piston. Just loosen the ban/0 boll at ink stage and mtighlen it lightly. The bika'r hydrauilo system can then be used to role: I the piston out or the body once the pads hairs been removed. Disconnect the hose once (ha piston have been sufficiently displaced. 2 it the caliper ls being overhauled. remain the brake pads (see Section 2). then slide the caliper D" the bracket, noting how it fits (an illustration). it it the caliper is just being displaced, all XLEDOV models unscrew the bolt securing ill: brake hose clamp to the caliper bracket [m illustration 2.32s). Unscrew the callpel lea mounting boluslioer pin, ihen pivot lhe caliper up all the disc and slide it off the brackil. noting how it tits (see Illustration 2.35: and 521. Overhaul 4 It required, remove the pad spring llonitltl caliper and the guide lrom the bracket, noting how they ill (see illustrations). 5 Clean the exterior ol the caliper willi denatured alcohol or brake system cleahll (see Illustration). 6 Remove the piston lram the oailper burly. either by pumping ll. out by operating tltl brake pedal. or by using compressed all. It the compressed air method is used. place: wad ol‘ rag over the piston to act as a cushion. then use compressed alr directed into his rinirl inlet to force lilo pls‘trin out ol the nod], Use only low pressure to ease the piston out. Brakes. wheels and tyres 7-13 ll tile air pressure is too high and the piston i inland cut, the caliper and/Dr piston may be damaged. Warning: Never place your fingers A in from of fhspiflun in an attempt to calnh Dr protect if whfln applying compremd air. as serious injury could result. Place the caliper piston side down on a bench, with the rag between them. and let the air Iifl the cal/per off the plum. Caitlin": Do not try to remove the piston by layering If out, or by using pliers or any umergrlps. 1 Using a wooden or plastic tact. remove the dust seal iYDrn lite caliper bore. Discard ll as a new one must be used an installation‘ If a metal moi is being used take great care not to damage the caliper bore, 0 Remove and discard the piston seal in me same way, 9 Clean the piston and bore with denatured licullal. Clean Drake iluid or brake system cleaner, li Compressed air is available. use Ii to dry the parts thoroughly (make sure it's uttered and unluhncatedl. Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, us. a petroleurrhbased solvent to clean brake parts. to inspect the caliper bore and piston for signs oi corrosion, Hicks and burrs and loss 0i Dialing. ii surface defects are present. the callparand/or piston must be replaced with new ones, it the necessary measuring squid mam is available. compare the dimensions Oi the piston and bare to those given in the Specifications Section ui this Chapter, replacing any component that is worn beyond iis service limii. li the caliper is in bad shape the master cylinder should also be checked. ii Remove the collar irDm the rear slider pm ther [loci and remove the boots imrn [he Daliper and the bracket (see illustrafiuns). Clean all all traces oi corrosion and hardened grease imm the collar, hunts and DInS. Renew ills rubber boots if they are damaged. neiurmed or ameliorated. Apply a smear or silicone based grease to the collar. boots and slider pins. Fit the boots Into their bores. ihsn iii the coliar into the rear boot (see illusimlians 5,11!) and a). 12 Lubricaie the new piSiOn seal Willi clean make lluid and in it in its groove in the caliper bars. 15 Lubricata the new dust seal Willi Clean brake limit and lit ll in its groove in the caliper bore. 1‘ Lubricaie me piston WIlI’i clean brake fluid arid M ii closed-end first into the caliper bore. Ulil’ii] your thumbs, push the piston all the way In making sure it enters lite bare squarely. installation 15 ii the Caliper has no! been overhauled. remove the collar from the rear slider pin rubher tool and remove the boots irom [he cullper and the bracket (see illustrations 5i“! and b). Clean 0“ all traces oi corrosion H32739 55 Rear brake caliper assembly 1 Piston 4 Bleed valve 7 Boot 9 Collar 2 Dusrssai 5 Caliper B Muunilng 10$ilderpiri 3 Piston seal a Padspririg ball/sliderpl'n and hardened grease trnm the collar, boots and pins. Renew the rubber boots it they are damaged, delonned or deteriorated. Apply a smear ui silicone based grease to the collar. boots and slider pins. Fit the boots into their bores. lhen lit the collar into the rear hoot (see illustrations 5.1“: and a). ‘6 Make sure that llie pad spring and pad guide are correctly filled (see illustrations 5.4; and h). Slide the caliper into the cracket (see illush'atian 5.2). 17 ll removed, install the brake pads (see Section 2). It the pads are already installed. pivot the caliper down onto the disc willie keeping the pads held in position, locating the leading edges correctly against the guide on the bracket (see illustration 2.35m, Apply a suitable non-permanent thread locking compound to the rear mounting boil/slider pin and ughlen it securely (see Illustration 2.35c). 18 ll detached. connect the brake hose to the caliper. using new scaling washers on each side of the fitting. Align the hose as "tried on removal (see illustration 5.1a or b). Tighten the banjo boil lo the torque selling specified al the beginning ol the Chapter. 19 Fill the master cylinder reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid (see Dally (ore-noel Checks) and bleed the hydrauilc system as described in Section 10. 20 Check tor leaks and thoroughly test the operation at the brake before riding the motorcycle. 6 Rear brake plate assenme - removal. overhaul and installation (drum brake) Note: This procedure applies only to XLSODV» H to L (1987 in 1990) models, Warnlng: Tile dust created by the A brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow Ii out with Eampressed air and don’t inhale any a! it All approved filtering mask should ha worn when working on the brakes Do not, under any 5,11: Withdraw the collar (A) and remove the caliper boot (a) . . . 5.11b . c . and the bracket boot 7-14 Brakes, wheels and tyres 7.4 Slacker! the reservoir cover screws circumstances. use petroleum-based solvents to clean braks pans. Use clman brake fluid, brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only. Removal 1 Remove the rear wheel (see Section 14). 2 Lift the brake plate cut oi the drum in the wheel hub. Remove the brake shoes (see Section 2) (see illustration 124). Inspection 3 Visually lnspect the surface or the brake plate lor distortion. cracks and other damage, and replace it with a new one it necessary. 4 Check the operation of the actuating cam. If there are any signs or roughness or silliness. disassemble the plate assembly as iollovvs. 5 Unscrew li'le nut and withdraw the bolt securing the arm on the and of the actuating shaft and slide the arm oil, Note the alignment at the indicator plate than slide that of! the shaft Withdraw the shaft. Remove the thrust plate, noting now It locates. a Clean all components in solvent Check the condition of the splines on the shaft and arm and replace them with new ones ii the splines are worn or deiormed. Remove the grease seals from the plate and clean the bare. Fit new grease seals it the old ones are deformed. damaged or deteriorated - it there ls evidence or dirt and water ingress in the bore and an the shall then renew them Whatever they look like. Check the cam on the Inner end of the shaft lur wear. 7 Grease the line of the seals and press them into place. Apply grease to the thrust plate 7 1 Counter-hold the hose nut (A). than unscrew the locknut (B) and separate the hose from the hose joint to) _. , r,. 7.5 Disconnect the brake ight switch w ring cunnemrs (arrowedl and place ii. on the brake plate, locating its slot over the pin on the plate. Apply grease to the shaft and carefully Slide it into the brake plats. making sure the thrust plate stays In place. and taking care not to damage the seal lips — it is a good idea to wrap a single layer of thin insulating tape around the shah splines to prevent damage. Slide the indicator plate onto the shalt with its painter racing In. and aligning its tab with the cutout on the shaft. Slide the arm onto the shaft, aligning the punch mark on the end Ol the shaft with that on the outside or the arm. Flt the bolt and secure it with the nut. Installation 3 Install the brake shoes (see Sectlnn 2). Fit the plate assembly Into the drum in the rear wheel hub. 9 Install the wheel (see Section 14), , ,ster cylinder g‘é —remavai, 0v haul K and installation k 1 it the master cylinder is leaking iluid. or ii the lover does not produce a firm teal when the brake is applied, and bleeding the brakes does not help (see Section lot. and the hydraulic hoses and unions are all in good condition. then master cylinder overhaul is recommended, 2 Before disassembling the master cylinder. read through the entire procedure and make sure that you have lhe correct rebuild kit. Also, you will need some new per a brake 7.8 Front master cylinder clamp bolts (snowed) 7.5 Brake hose barrio halt (snowed) iluid, some clean rags and Internal circlip pliers. Note: To prevent damage to the pal/ll from spilled brake fluid. always cove! the M tank when working on the master cyllndar. Caution: Disassembly, overhaul Ind reassembly a! the brake master cylinder must be alone in a spotless/y clean wort area to avoid contamination and posslMl failure of the brake hydraulic Syltl'fl components Removal Note: if the master cylinder is being displaced from the handlebar and not being removed completely or overhauled. fol/ow Steps 5 and7 WW 3 Remove the rear view minor (sea Chaptdrlt. Remove the irortt oraxe lever (see Chapter al. 4 Loosen. but do not remove, the screws holding the reservoir cover in place (soc Illustration). 5 Disconnect the electrical connectors lrolll the brake light switch (see Illustration). 6 On XLGUOV’M to X (1991 to 1969] moddl and XLB50V models. unscrew the brake hose banlo bolt and separate the hose lrorn the master cylindarr noting its alignment (sea illustration). Discard the two sealing washai as they must be replaced Wlth new ones. Wm the and arms hose In a clean rag and suspend it In an upright position or bend It down and place the open end in a clean container. The objective Is to prevent excessive loss oi brake fluid. lluid spills and system contamination 1 On XLEDDV»H to L (1587 to 1990) moddl and XRV750 models. counter-hold the has. nut. then unscrew the locknut and separatl the hose from (ha hose loin! in the mast! cylinder (see illustrationL Wrap the end at the hose In a clean rag and suspend It in an upright position or bend It clown and place the open end in a clean container The ablectlvob to prevent excessive loss or broke lluid, iiuitl spills and system contamination. ll required. unscrew the hose joint and remove it tron. tin master cylinder. Discard the sealing washer as a new one must be used. 8 Unscrew the master Cylinder clamp bolts. than llft the master cylinder and reservo‘t away trorn the handlebar. noting now the top mating surfaces or the clamp align with tilt punch mark on the top oi the handlebar (an illustration]. Brakes, wheels and tyres 7-15 Hal-id guard Collar Tmrinion Brake lever Span adjusler Spring G’ilnhtmma Damian: Do not (in the master cylinder upside dawn or brake fluid will run out Bfierriove the reservoir cover. diaphragm plate and rubber diaphragm, Drain the brake lltlid lrom the reservolr mm a suitable container. Wipe any remaining iluio out or the reservoir wlth 8 Clean rag. 10 ll required undo the brake light switch screw arid remove the swim. rioting how il ms. Overhaul 11 Carelully remove the dust boot from the and 0' \he master cylinder and from around the piston. noting now it locates (see Illustration). 12 Push the piston lri and. using ciiciio pliers, remove the CllCllp irom its groove in the master cyllnder and slide out the piston assembly and the spring, noting now they til. "they are oiliioull to remove. apply low pressure compressed air to the fluld outlet. laythe parts out in order as you remove them torment confusion during reassembly '3 Clean all parts with clean brake fluid or denatured alcohol. It compressed all is available, use it to dry the parts thoroughly "Make sure lt‘s filtered and unluorica‘ted), Caution: Du not, under any circumstances 1.11 Front master cylinder components use a petroleum-based solvent to clean brakeparls, 14 Check the master cyllnder bore ior corrosion. scratches, nicks and score marks ll the necessary measuring equipment is available, compare the dlmer‘lslulls ut {lie plston and bore to those given in the Speciflcatlons Section or this Chapter, ii damage or wear is evident, the master cylinder must be replaced With a new one. It the mastsr Cyllndar is In poor condition. than the calipers should be checked as well. Check that the tluld lnlel‘ and outlet ports in the master cylinder are clear. 15 The dust boot, clrcllp. piston, seal. Cup and Spring are included in the rebuild kit. Use all of the new parts. regardless ol the apparent condition 01 the Old Dries. It the seal and Cup are not already an the plston. fit them according to the layoul ol the old one. 16 Lubricate the cup. seal and piston with clean brake fluid. 17 Flt the sprlrig into the piston so that lie narrow and points Out, than ill the piston lnm the master cylinder, maklng sure lt Is the correct way round and that it locates correctly against the spring. Make sure the lips on the cup and seal do not turn inside out when they enter the bare. Depress the piston and install 7 Adlusfef wheel 13 Piston 18 Plate 8 Adjuster thread 14 Cup 19 Diaphragm 9 Pour 15 Spring 20 Separator 10 Rubber Door 76 Leverpivor 21 Brake llgh‘l ll Clrcllp bolt Switch 12 Seal 17 Reservoir cover 22 Nut the new clrcllp, making sure that it locates in the groove iii the master cylinder 18 Apply some sllioone grease to the IHSlde oi the rubber dust boot, then install it. making sure it is sealed properly in the groove in the master cylinder and around the piston, 19 inspect the reservolr rubber diaphragm and renew it It it is damaged or deteriorated. Installation 20 Locate the brake llght sw‘rtcii on the underside ol the master cylinder and secure it with the screw 21 Attach the master cylinder to the handlebar and fit the clamp With its UP mark lacing up (see illustration). Align the top mating surfaces or the clamp with the punch mark on the top at the handlebar, than lighten the top boll first. then the bottom bolt to the torque setting specillsd at the beginning ol the Chapter, 22 On XLSUUV’M to X (1991 to 1999) madels 1 and XL650V modeler connect the brake hose to the master cylinder, using new sealing washers on each side of the union, and aligning the hose as noted on removal (see illustration 7.6). Tighten the banjo bolt to the torque Setting speclfied at the beglnning of the Chapter, 7-16 Brakes, wheels and tyres 7.21 Align the clamp mating sumac: with the punch mark (arrawed), and fit the clamp with the UP mark hclng up 213 CH XLSDUV-H to L (1987 to 1990) models and XRV750 models. If removed thread the huse joint Into the master cylinder using a new sealing washer and tlghten Ii securely. Fit ihe Drake hose onto the hose [aim and tighten the lncknul onto the hose, cuuhier—huiding the hose nut in prevehi the hose lwlsting (sue Illustmflofl 7.7). Do not uvertighten the locknul. 24 Connect the brake llght switch wiring (see illustration 7.5). 5 install the brake lever (see Chapter 6) and the rear vlew mirror (see chapter a). 26 Fill the iiuid reservuir with new DOT 4 brake fluid as describad in Daily (pre»rl'de) checks, Rsier In Section ‘0 at this Chapter and bleed the air irom the system. 27 Fit the rubber diaphragm. making sure it is correctly seared. Ihe diaphragm plate and me cover or C‘ED Onto the Imrvcir. XL600V 8.5 Braku hose banjo Sis s bolt (snowed) 28 Check the opsrarion of the iron! brake and brake light Deters riding the motorcycle. ‘3 hear brats hum cylinder: 3 ' rerndval.ovamauli ' § :‘\ and installation . 1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid. nr ii the lever does not produce a firm faal when the brake is applied. and bleeding the brakes does not help (see Section 10]. and the hydraulic hoses and unions are all in good condition, than master cylinder overhaul is recommended. 2 Esters disassembling the master cylinder. read through the sntlre procedure and make sure that you have the correct rebuild kit. Also. you will need sums new DOT A brake fluid. some clean rags and internal Circiip pliers. Note: To preveru damage in the paint from spilled brake fluid. always cover the surrounding components when working on the master cylinder. Camlon: Disassembly, overhaul and reassembly of the brake master cylinder musfbodans in a spatlessly clean Walk area to avoid contamination and possible failurv II! the Drake hydraulic iysleln DOMPOHGI'IKS. Removal 3 Remove ihe right-hand side panel (see Chapter 5). On XRWSO-L to N (1990 t9 1992) models. unscrew the bolts securing the right- hand passenger lootresl bracket and remove It. hating how it fits. 4 Unscrew the bait sscuring the mania cylinder reservoir (see illustrations). Um the two reservoir cover screws or unscrawlm' reservoir cap (accurding ic mudsl). Ahli‘ remove the diaphragm plats and dlaphragn then pour the fluid into a Container Sepam the iluid reservmr hose tram the unlon on tbi master cylinder by releasing the hose claim (89: lllustratlnn). l 5 Unscrew the brake hase banjo bolt and separate the hose from the maslar cylinder. l nuiing Iis alignment (sea illustration), Dim lire Sealing washers as they musi be realm with new ones. Wrap "is and or the hose in l clean rag and suspend it in an upnglll posliion, or bend it down carefully and pizza the open end in a clean container. TM objective is to prevent excessive loss at brlilb fluid. fluid spills and system oohtamlrlailorlr 6 Remove the split pin (rum the Clzvls pill securing the brake pedal to the masw' cylinder pushrod, then remove the slew: pin and separate the pedal from the pushmd (sel illustrations). 1 Unscrew the two bolts securing the mam cylinder to the bracket and remove the master cylinder (see illustration 8‘46). Overhaul s it required. and where it IS not secured mi roll pin. mark the positron oi me clevls lucirru on me pushrou, Ihen slacken the lucknutam mead me clevis and its sass nui all Ihe pushrod (see lliusuauuni. ll 3 roll pin lsiiirea, it will have tr: he drlflsd out. a.“ Reservoir hose clamp (A), mam cylindar mnuntlng bolts ls) 6.6: Rumour the split pin . . . : st Bflh . . . then witiufi'aw the clevls pln Brakes. wheels and tyres 7-17 DDlslodge the rubber dust hoot lmm the has: ul the master cyllnder and lrorn around Enpushmd. hating how it locates. and slide it tip the pushrod. in Push the pushrod in and. using clrcllp pliers, remove the circlip irom its groove in the master cylinder and slide out the piston membly and the spring, noting how they lit. it they are difficult to remove, apply low niessure compressed air to the tiuld outlet. lay the parts out in the proper order to prevent confusion during reassembly. 11 ll required. remove the screw Securing the Mid reservoir hose union and detach it from its master cylinder. Discard the Orring as a new one must be used. lrispem the reservoir nose lot cracks or splits and replace with a now one it necessary. i2 Clean all of the parts with clean brake tluid ordenatured alcohol million: Do not, under any circumstances, use a petroleum-based solvent to clean blah pane I! “Impressed air is available, use it to dry the parts thoroughly {make We "'5 filtered and unlubricaled}. 13 Check the master cylinder bore lot corrosion. scratches. nicks and score marks. ll the necessary measuring equipment is available. compare lne dlmsnsians Dl [he Flinn and bore to those given in the Specifications Section oi this Chapter. ll damage or wear is evident. the master cylinder must be replaced with a new one. If in: master cyllnder is In poor condition. than [he caliper should be checked as well. u The dust hoot, clrclip, piston. seal. cup uid spring are included in the rebuild kit. Use All at the new parts, regardless of the apparent condition of the old ones. If the seal knot already on the piston, lit It according to his layout at the old one. Slide the new boat onto the pushrod, maklng sure it is the correct with; round. l5 Fll the cup over the end at the spring so mat its inner raised section ills into the outer toll on the spring. Luuricate the cup. seal and piston with clean hraxeiiuid, is Install the spring In the master cylinder mhthe cup facing out, then tit the piston Into lite master Cylinder. making sure it is the correct way round. Make sure the lips on the nip and seal do not turn Instde out when they enter the core I? Apply some silicone grease to the and or he pushrod and lit it into the master cylinder. Depress the pushrod. then install the new tilefip, making sure it is properly seated In the groove. 18 Install the rubber dust boot. making sure it lsseated properly In the groove In the master cylinder and around the pushrod. ll ll removed, fit a new O»rlng to the fluid lusarvalr hose unionI then III the union onto the master cylinder and secure It with Its screw in ll removed. thread the claws locknu! and the claws onto the master Cylinder pushrod and. Set the clevis posltion as noted on H32722 8.8 Rear master cyllnder components 1 Hesswoirhosa s Piston union 7 Seal 2 D-n‘ng 5 Nut cl Mastercylrnder 9 Circllp 4 Spring 10 Rubber 5 can boot removal. Honda specify the distance between the eye in the claws and ihe lower mounting bolt hols should be 100 mm. Tighten the clevis locknut securely against the clevis. 21 Where the clevis ls retained by a roll Dina secure it in position with a new pln Installation 22 Fit the master cylinder onto the footrest bracket and tighten its mounting bolts to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter [see illustration Mo). 23 Align the brake pedal with the master cylinder pushmd Cievls. men slide in the clevis pin and secure il using a new split pin (see illustrations 8.6!) and a). 24 Connect the brake hose to the master cylinder, using new sealing washers on each side 01 the union. Align the hosts as noted on removal and lighten the banjo bull to the specified torque setting (see illustration 8.5). 25 Fit the fluid reservoir uil its mount and secure it with its bolt (see illustration 8.4a or b). Ensure that the hose Is correctly routed then connect it to the union on the master cylinder and secure it with the clamp (see Illustration 3.46). Check that the hose is secure and clamped at the reservoir end as well. ll the clamps have weakened. use new ones. 11 Pushrod 72 Roll pin 13 Brake pedal arm 14 Ciel/ls pin 15 Cievis 15 Split pin 26 Fill the lluid reservoir with new DOT A brake lluld (see Daily (ore-ride) checks) and bleed the system following the procedure in Section 10. 27 Check the operation at the brake and brake light careiully before riding the motorcycle. 28 On XR’WSO-L ta N (1550 to 1992] models. install the rignlshand passenger (cotrest bracket and tighten its bolts securely. Install the rlthtend side panel (see Chapter 3). § \ 9 Brake hoses and unions - Inspection and replacement Inspection 1 Brake hose and pipe condition should he checked regularly (see Chapter ll. 2 Twist and tiex the rubber hoses while looking to. cracks. bulges and seeping fluid (see illustration). Check extra careluliy around the areas where the hoses connect with the banjo linings, as these are common areas lot hose lailure. 3 Inspect the metal oralte pipes and the name union linings connected to the brake hoses. If the linings are rusted. scratched or cracked replace them with new ones. 7'18 Brakes, wheels and tyres 9.2 Flax the brake hoses and check tor cracks. bulges and leaking nuid Replacement 4 The brake hoses have banio union fittings on each end. With the exception ml the lronl master Cylindar hose on XLSUUV-H to L (1987 to 1990) mo els and XRV750 models which has a hose] nt piece. and the brake pipes have juint nuts securing them in their unions (see illustrations 7.5 and 7.7L Cover the surrounding area With plenty ol rags and unscrew the banjo boll urlolnt nut at each end of the hose or plpe, rioting its alignment. On the from master Cyllndei hose on XLBDOV»H to L (1987 to 1990) mudels and XHV750 models, counterrnold the hose nut oncl unscrew the locknut and separate the nose lram the hose lain! in the caliper (see illustration 7.7). ll required. unscrew the nose lolnt lrorn the master cylinder. Free the hoses/pipes from any cups or guides and remove them, Discard the sealing washers as new ones must be Used. 5 PDSltIOn the new huse. making sure ll Isn'l twisted or otherwise Strained, and abut the lab on the hose union Wlll‘l the lug on the component casting. where present. Otherwise align the hose or pipe as noted on removal. lnsnall the hose banjo bolls using new sealing washers on both sides oi the unions. Tighten the banja holLs to the torque setting specified at the beginning al this Chapter. 10.53 Brake caliper bleed Valve (arrode) 6 Locate the end or the new pipe into its Union and tighten the nut securely. out not overlight. 7 0n the lront master cylinder hose on XLGDOV-H to L (1937 to 1990) models and xnwsu models. it removed. thread the joint place into the master cylinder using a now seeing washer and tighten it securely (see illustration 7.7). Fit the hose against the hose lolnt and tighten the locknut onto the hose. counter-holding the hose nut to prevent the hose twisting Do not overtighten the locknut. a Make sure the hoses and pipes are correctly aligned and routed clear ot all moving components. Flush the old orake fluid lrorn the system. retill with new DOT 4 brake liuld (see Daily (prerrde) checks) and oleed the air from the system [see Secllon 10). Check the operation oi the brakes careluliy nature riding the motorcycle. 10 Brake system - "\‘x bleeding and fluid renewal $ ‘ 1‘ Bleeding Note: Honda recommend using a commercia/ly available vacuum~type brake blaeding “70/ {see illustration). II bleeding the system lISlrIg the conventional melhcd does nu! work sufficiently Well. if is adVlSHbIS to obtain a bleeder and repeat the procedure detailed below. following lhe manufacturers instructions for using the tool if the real is not available, lake (he machine to a Honda dealer 1 Bleeding the brakes is simply the process of removing all the air bubbles irom the brake fluid reservoirs. the hoses and this brake calipers. Bleeding is necessary whenever a brake system hydraulic connection is loosened, when a component or hose is replaced. or when the master cylinder or caliper is uvsrllaulsd. Leaks In the system may also allow air to enter. out leaking orake 10. NOTE Bleeding the brakes using a commercial vacuum-operated bleeding tool livid will reveal their presence and warn youut the need tor repair. 2 To bleed the brakes. you will need 30ml new DOT 4 brake fluid. a length at clear will or plastlc hitting. a small container partialy filled with clean brake fluid, some lags Md! ring Spanner to fl! me brake caliper bleed valves. 3 Cover the fuel tank, fairing panels. llol'li mudguard and other painted componentslt prevent damage in the event that brake llu‘ltl h spilled. 4 Remove the reservoir cover or cup. diaphragm plate and diaphragm (see Dally ‘ (preende) checksl and slowly pump the braltt lever or pedal a few times. until no all bubblfi can be seen floating up lrem the holes in the bottom of the reservoir. Doing thrs bleeds tlrt air lrorn the master cylinder and of the line Loosely refit the reservoir cover. 5 Pull the dust cap nfl the bleed valve (an illustration). Attach one end at the clear vlrtl or plastic tubing to the bleed valve and submerge the other end in the brake fluid in the container (see Illustration). 6 Hemuve the reservoir cap or cover and check the lluid level. Do not allow the llllil level to drop helow the lower mark uunnglitt bleeding process. 105:; To bleed the brakes. you need a spanner. I short section ill clear tubing, and a clad! container half-filled with brake fluid Brakes, wheels and tyres 7-19 loareiuliv pump the brake lever or pedal Ilirse or four times and hold it in (lront) or down (real) whlle opening the caliper bleed valve. When the valve is opened. brake fluid villiiaw put of the caliper into the clear tubing lid the lever will move loward the handlebar otthe pedal will move down. Dl'letlghten the bleed valve. then release the brake lever or pedal gradually. Repeat the plums until no air bubbles are viSible In the brake tlutd leaving the caliper and the lever or pedal is lirm when applied. On completion. disconnect the bleeding equipment, then tighten the bleed valve to the torque setting specified at the beginning or the chapter and retail the dust cap. On models with twin tronl disc brakes repeat the procedure on the other ullpel, 9 Install the diaphragm. plate and cover or dpassemply, wipe up any spilled brake ituid and check the entire system for leaks. ll it’s not powola to produce a film feel to the lever nrpedal the fluid my be named. Let _ the brake fluid in I’ll Synenl immfara hwhoursand thsnlapelat tile WW9 when the tiny bubbles in :lln system have settled out. Also check 10 make sun that them one no ‘hlylr lsmls‘ in the bake nose In wnlhh an air bubble can become tapped - this will nocul most often In an incorrectly llmunted has: union, but can also arise sllwnugit bleeding tire brakes while some nfllta‘blaka system components an at l such an angle to encourage this. .‘Ihversmg the angle a! displacing and illnwlllg Ills minding canpanentraraund l will nonnamdlsiadgeany trapped air. I HAYNES E Renewing the fluid to Changing the brake liuld is a similar process to bleeding the brakes and requires the same materials plus a suitable tool for siphoning the fluid out oi the hydraulic reservoir. Also ensure that the container is lugs enough to take all the old rluid when it is livshed out oi the system. it Follow Steps 3 and 5. then remove the reservoir cap. diaphragm plate and diaphragm 2m siphon the old lluid out or the reservoir Fill the reservoir With new brake iluld, then lollow Step 7, 12 hettgrileri the bleed valve, then release the brake lever or pedal gradually. Keep the reservoir toppedrup wrlh new iluid to above ltla LOWER level at all times or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of metask. Repeat the process until new tiuld can be seen emerging from the bleed valve. l- lfifl'fi l Old breki fluid is lnvariably much darker in colour than new fluid, making it easy to m whenalloldfluid has boon emailed from the system. 11.2 Check the wheel for radlal [out-ol- round) runcul (A) and axial (side—m-side) runom (B) 13 Disconnect the hose. then tighten llle bleed valve to the SDECllled torque setting and install the dust cap. 14 Topsup the resort/air. install the diaphragm. plate and cover or cap. and wrpe up any spilled blake fluid Check the entire system tor tlutd leaks. 15 Check lhe operatlnrl of the brakes DBfure riding the motorcycle, 11Wmmp— . inspection and repair fill/'2‘“ 1 Position the motorcycle on its centrestand ll fitted or an an auxiliary stand. When checking the front wheel. suppon the bike so lhal it is raised loft the ground. Clean the wheels thoroughly [0 remove mud and dirt that may interfere with the Inspection procedure or mask detects. Make a general check M the Wheels (see Chapter 1) and tyres (see Dally {prerldal checks). 2 To Check axial (Side-tD-sidel mliom. attach a dial gauge to lhe fork slider or the swingarm and posillon its stern againsl the side at the rim (sea illustration). Spin the wheel slowly and check the amount of mnput at the rim. To accurately check radial (out oi round) ruhout with the dial gauge. remove the wheel from the machine. and the lyre from the wheel. With the axle clamped In a VICE and the dial gauge positioned on the top or the rim. rotate the wheel and check the runoul. 3 An easier. "laugh slightly less accurate. method Is to attach a stiff wire painter to the fork slider or the swtngafln and position the and a l‘raBtion at an inch lronl lite Vimsel (where [he wheel and tyre loin), ii the wheel is true. the distance truth the pointer to the rim Wlll be constant as the wheel is rotated. Nola: if wheel 111an is excessive. check the wheel bean/lg: and axle very carelully before replacmg. 4 Visually inspect the wheels '0! cracks. flat spots on the rim, and other damage Look very closely lor dents in the area where the tyre bead contacts the rim. 5 ll damage is evident. or I. runout in Elmer direction IS excessive, the wheel will have In be rebuilt by a prutesstunal wheel builder Wha will replace the damaged components with new ones, than make sure the wheel is properly aligned. tensioned and palanced. 12 Vfihsels—tk k § a gnmen cites a 1 misalignment ol the wheels. which may be due to a sucked rear wheel or a bent frame or lork yokes. can cause strange and possibly serious handling problems. ll the lrame or yokes are at fault. repair by a trame specialist or replacement With new parts are the only alternatives. 2 To check the alignment you will need an assistant. a length oi string or a partectly straight piece of wood and a ruler. A plumb bob or other suitable weight will also be required. 3 Place the bike on the neritrsslarld (whale fitted) or an auxiliary stand. Measure the width or both tyres at their wioat points. Subtract the smaller measurement lrom the larger measurement. then divide the dlflarenca by two. The result is Ihs amounl Dl Olfsel that should exist between the front and rear lyres on bclh sides. 4 if a string is used. have your assistant hold one end of It aboul halfway between the liner and me rear axle. touching the rear sidewall of the tyre. 5 Run the other end at the string lcrward and pull it tight so that it is roughly parallel to the lloor (see illustration). slowly bring the string lnln Contact with the front sidewall al the rear lyre. then turn the tram wheel until it is parallel with the string. Measure the distance lrom the hunt tyre sidewall to the string. Ft: ltrlnq her- >))>>>)>>))> Shim] hold urn new thing so thal lhm chums m aquu Grinch lsrcenlact hm P133619 125 Wheel alignment check using string 7-20 Brakes, wheels and tyres ~ nlmaeo bum-on one tyre mat on urn-l mh alda Ind hunt and tuck / . ransom M ' Inan or wood 7m..." Hoar tyre mm b- plnllil to gangs at Iron! and back A as 12.7 Wheel allgnmant check using a straight edge a Repeal the procedure on the other slde ot the motorcycle. The dlslance from the front lyre sidewall to the strlng should be equal on both sides. wheel 13.8 Undo the swew (arrawedl and detach the cable 7 As previously mentloheor a perfectly straight lenglh of wood or metal bar may be substltuted for the string (see illustration). The procedure ls the same. 8 If the dlstance between the string and tyre ls greater on one side. or if tlle rear wheel appears to be cached. reler to chapter 1 and check that the chain adjuster marklngs are in the same posltion on each side of [he swtngarm. 9 H lhe lronHo-oack allgnmenl l5 current, the wheels still may be out cl allghmenl vertically. to Using a plumb boo. or other suitable weight, and a length or slrlng. check the rear wheel la make sure ll ls vertlcal. TO do this, hold the string against the tyre upper sidewall and allow the weight to settle jusl la” the "car, When the string touches both the upper and lower tyre sidewalls and is pertectly straight. the wheel IS venlcalv ll ll IS nut. place thll’l spacers under one leg or the stand until it is 11 Once the rear wheel is venlcal. check the front wheel in the same manner, It both wheels are not perfectly vertical, ll’ls lrarrle and/or major suspension components are bent. 13 Front wheel - 'Q removal and installation % § Removal 1 Poslllan lhe motorcycle on lls csntreatana lt fitted or on an auxlllary stand and support lt 9L 13.4 slacken the axle clamp nuts (A), m unscrew the axle (a) so the! lhe ll'cl‘ll wheel ls olf the ground Always make sure the motorcycle ls properly supporled. 2 Dlsplace the brake calipers lsee Secllollfl) Support the calipers with a cable [Is all bungee cord so that no strain ls olaced on In! hydraullc hoses. There is no need lll dlsnonnect the hoses from lhe callpers. Mall Do not operate the front brake lever with m- calipers removed 3 Undo the screw securlrlg the spasdolllm cable in the dere huusing on the llgl’ll'llflld slda ol the wheel and detach the cable. (Willi; I'low ll locates (sac lllustratlon} 4 Slacks" lhe axle clamp nuts ml the hmlaill of the righbhand lork. then unscrew lheixll (see illustration). 5 Support the wheel. then wvtlldraw ll‘lE w lrorn the right—hand side. using a dnft to lapl out if necessary, and cavalully lower the WM (see Illustration). 6 Remove the speedometer drive housing lrum the right-hand side 0! ”13 wheel. nollllfi how ll ills. and the spacer lrom lhe left-ham slde, notlng which way round It me (at illustrations), CHUNG": Don't lay the wnaEl down and allow it I0 rest all a disc - [he disc could become warped. set the when! on wud blacks so the disc doesn‘t supflarl lIu weight or the wheel. 7 Check the axle lor slreighlneee by rolling lt on a llal surlace such as a plece ol plate glans (first we arr all old grease and remove any corrosion usvng fine emery cloth). ll the equmenl is available. place the axle ln 13.63 Remove the speedometer drive housing . . . 13.6!) . . . and the spacer Brakes, wheels and tyres 7-21 V-blonks and measure the runuut using a dial gauge. It the axle is bent or the runoul exceeds the limit specified, replace It with a new one. 8 Check the condition of the grease seals and wheel bearings (see Section 15). lnstallatian ll Apply a smear ol grease to the inside oi the speedometer drive housing and the wheel spacer. and also to the outside where they fit Into lhe wheel. Fit the drive housing into the light-hand side or the wheel. locating Its slots lwer tile drwe plate tabs. and tile spacer into the left-hand side. with its shouldered end lining out (see illustrations 13.6a and bi. 1n Manoeuvra the wheel Into position between the lurk sliders with the speedometer pnve on tho rightmand sips. Apply a thin coat or grease to the axial 11 Lift the wheel Into place, making sure the drive housing and spacer remain in positron. Slldctha axis in train the right-hand side (so: illustration 1&5) and thread il into place Rotate the speedometer drive housing so that its lug pulls up against the back of the stopper on the front fork tscc illustration). then lighten the axis to lhe torque selling spaclliec at the beginning at the Chapter (sue Illustratinn) Check ii’lal the wheel Spins ircely. ‘2 Lower the front wheel to the ground. then install the brake calipers (see Section a). 13 Apply the front brake a law tlmps to bring the pads back Into contact with the discs. Move the motorcycle ofl its stand. applv the Imnt brake and pump the lront Iorks a let/ll Km to settle all components in position 1‘ Now lighten the axle clamp nuts on the hmom oi the rith’Iarid lurk to the specified torque setting, tightening the upper ones first. then the lower ones (see illustration KIA). Note that if the Clamp face was removed it must Lie filled with lite UP lnark pointing up (see Illustration) l5 Fit the speedometer cable Into the drive tiousing. making sure ll engages correctly. and secure It With its screw [see Illustralions). IE Check to! correct operation oi the brakes More riding the motorcycle, 1314 Make sure the up mark facas up 13.11: Butt the speedometer drive housing against the hadt oi the lug tamed) 1:4’ Heargwheel— - , rernovalandirlstallation MW XLSOOV—H and V-L models {1 98 7 to 1 990) Removal 1 Position the motorcycle on Its centrestand if filter: or on an auxiliary sland and support it so that the rear wheel is 0" Ihe ground. Always make sure the motorcycle is properly supported. 2 Fully unscrew the aolustlng wingnut on the and ol the brake rad. than pivot the arm rearwards and oil the rodi Take care not to lose the spring that lowtes between the arm and the but on the rod. 3 Slacken the rear axle nut. 4 Slacken ms locknut on the adjuster on each end all the swingarm. then turn the adlustfir nut out On each side to prOVIde some slack in the chain. Move the rear wheel forwards In the swingarm to create the slack, 5 Unscrew the axle nut and remove the washer. noting how it locates. 5 Support the Wheel. then withdraw the axle lrulii llle leiHiflrld side and lower the wheel to lhs ground. Disengage the Chain from the sprocket and remove the wheel lrorn the swtngarm, ll the axle is difficult to withdraw. drive It through. making sure you don't oarnage the threads. Caution: D0 nut lay the wheel down and allow it to rest on the sprocket — it could 13.152 Make sure the drive tab locates In the slot In the cable and t . . - s22; J. ' t i _ 13.111: Tighten the axle to the specified torque at». . became warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so the sprocket doesn't suppan the weight or the wheel. 7 Remove the spacer from the lettvhand side at the wheel. 8 Check the axle lor straightnass by rolling it on a flat surface such as a piece or plate glass (if the axle is corroded. lirsl remove the corrosion With line emery clothi. ii the equipment is available. place the axle in Vablocks and check me runaul 115an a dial gauge. It the axle is bent or the runoul exceeds the limit speclilcp at the beginning or the Chapter. replace it with a new one. 9 Check the condition 07 the grease seals and wheel bearings (see Section 15). Installation 10 Apply a smear ol grease to the Inside oi the wheel spacer. and also Io ths Dutslde It [its into the wheel, Fit the spacer into the lefl~ hand side. 11 Manoeuvre the wheel so that it is In between the ends oi the swtngarm. Apply a thin coat of grease to the axle. Make stira the brake plate is correctly titted Into the drum and that the sprocket carrier is correctly lined in the hub 12 Engags the drive chain with the sprocket and lift the wheel Into position, Make sure the spacer remains correctly in place, and Ihal [he slot in the brake plate locates over the lug on the swingarrrl to prevent it turning. l3 Install the axle from the left. making sure it passes through "18 Chain adjusters. Check that everything is correctly aligned 14 Fit the washer. making sure its squared 13.15h . 4 . then secure the cable with the screw 7-22 Brakes, wheels and tyres XL models edge locates correctly under the swingarm, than fit the nuL i5 Make sure the spring is located on the brake rod. lhefl pivot the brake arm rearwards and slide it onto the rod. ‘6 Now check and adjust the drlve chain slack (see Chapter i), On completion tighten the axle nut to the torque setting spemlied at the beginning ill the Chaplet oountekholding the axle head on the other side of the wheel to prevent it lurnlng if necessary. i7 Operate the brake pedal several times to bring the shoes Into Contact with the drum. check the operation of the rear brake carefully before riding Irie bike. $1 14.21a Slacken the Iocknut (arrowed) t . . . ihen turn the adjuster out to provide slack 14208 Axle nut (arrowed) - XLSOOV-M models onward {1991-on), XLESOV and XRV750 models Removal 18 Position the motnrcycla on its centrestand it lltled or on an auxiliary stand and support It so that the rear wheel is all the ground. Always make sure the motomycle ls properly supported. 19 On all XLSUOV models, remove the brake caliper rear bolt and pivot it up (see Section 5), Z! Slacken the rear axle nut (see Illustrations). 21 On XL models. slackan the looknut on the minister on each and of the swingarm, then turn the adjuster nut out on each side to provide some slack in the chain (see Illustrations) 0n XRV models. turn the eccentric adiuster on each side to provide some Slack in the chain (see illustration 1410b). Move the rear wheel forwards In the swingarm to create the slack. 72 Unscrew [he axle Ilul and remove llle washer. on XL models noting how it locates (see Illustratian 14.205). Orr XRV models remove the right—hand adjuster from the end of the axle (see illustration 1420b). 23 Support the wheel, than withdraw the axle from the left-hand side and lower the wheel to the ground [see illustration). Disenqage the 1423a Withdraw the axle . t . 14.2w Axle nut IA) and eccentric adjuster (B) — XHV models chain from the sprocket and remove the wheel from the swingarm (see illustratiom." the axle is difllcult to withdraw, drift it ilimugli, making sure you don't damage the threads. 0n XHV750 retrieve the Ielt»hand chain adlusler from the axis (X me "our. 24 Note how the rear brake caliper brackei locates against me swingarrn, and support ii at that It will not (all oil. ll required. displace ll from the swingarm, noting how ii ms. and tie 'rl up. making sure no straln is placed on the hose Caution: Da nor lay the wheel dawn and allow it to rest on the disc 0! the sprockflt- they could become warped. Set the wired on wood blocks so the disc or the spmckst doesn't support the weight of the wheel, Do not Dperall "In brake pedal Willi thl wheel removed 25 Remove the spacer from each side ol ihr wheel lor salekseping. noting which lit-S Whale (see lllusirat’lunsi 26 Check ltle axle for straigntness w ruling ll Oil is llal surface such as a piece at plat! glass (ii the axle ls corroded. first remove in» corrosion With fine emery cloth). ll lira equipment is available, place the axle 'm V-blocks and check the runout using a dial gauge. I? ma axle is bent or the runnill exceeds lhe limit specified at the beginning ol the Chapter. replace it with a new one. 1&23!) . . . than lower the wheel to ”II ground and disengage the chain Brakes, wheels and tyres 7-23 ltzse Remove the spacerfmm the right- hand side , . . lkzflh Make sure lhe brake callper locales correctly (arrow) — XLSSW ti Check the conoflion at the grease seals and wheel bearings (see Section 15l- Installation m Apply a smear of grease to the inside oi llla wheel spacers, and also to the outside where they fit into the wheel. Fit the shun Infloer Into the right-hand side at the wheel and the long spacer into the lett-hand side lieu lllustlaliorls 14.253 and h). ll dlsplaced. tn the brake caliper bracket onto the swingarrn. making sure it locates correctly {sue lllusIrations). 29 Marleetlvre the wheel so that It ls In between the ends at the swingarm. Apply a lllirl coat 01 grease to the axle. Make sure the brake caliper bracket is still correctly poslllnnsd against the swlngarm and the sprocket carrier ls conectly tltted in the hub 14.32!) . . Vlhen {it the nut & , . 14.25!) . . . and from the left-hand side. 14.253 Make sure the brake on Iper nMing which fits where locales correctly (arrows) - XLSDUV em , 14.286 Make sure the brake caliper locates correctly (arrows) — XRWSO so Engage the drlve man with the sprocket and lilt the wheel Il’llo position (sea illustration 14.2311} Make sure the spacers and callper bracket and sprocket carrier remain correctly m place and that the brake disc lits squarely into the callper. wlth the pads positioned correctly each slde of the disc, 31 On XRV7SU models fit the left-hand chain adjuster onto the axle. making sure it is the correct way round. On all models lnstall the axle lrom the left, on XL models making sure it passes through the chaln adjusters (see Illustration lama), Check that everything is correctly aligned. 32 On XL models, fit the washer, making sure its squared edge locales correctly under the swingsrm, than fit the nut (see illustrations). 0n XRV models lit the rightrharld ad|ustar onto the arid or the axle, maklng sure ll is the 15.53 Lever out the grease seal on each slde 14.323 Fit the shaped washer, making sure it locales correctly . . . correct way round, men It! the washer and um (see illustration 14.2%). 33 Now check and adjust the drlve Chfiln slack (see Chapter 1). On completion tlghten the axle nut to the torque setting speclfied at the beginning otthe Chapter. countelrholdmg the axle head on the other side of the wheel to prevent it turning it necessary. 34 Operate the brake pedal several times to brlrig lhe pads lrltc contacl with the disc. Check the operation at the rear brake carelully before rldlrlg the bike. 15 Wheel bearings — & removal, inspection and installation a ”[2 Front wheel bearings Note; Always replace the wheel hearings in pelts. Never replace the bearings indlwoually. Avoid using a hrgh pressure cleaner on the wheel bearing area. 1 Remove the wheel. and IV not already done remove the speedometer drive houslng and spacer from it (see Section lot 2 Sal ills wheel all blocks so a: nut ll) allow the weight to rest on the brake disc 3 Prise out the seal on the left-hand side at the wheel usmg a Hal-bladed screwdriver, taking care not to damage the rim oi the hub. then turn the wheel over and remove the seal from the right-hand side (see lllustratian). Discard the seals as new ones should be Used, Remove the soeedometer drlve Dlale 7-24 Brakes, wheels and tyres 15.43 Knack out the hearings using a drift . . . 15.1“: Remove the speedometer drive plate. noting how it fits lrcrn the right-hand slide or the wheel. noling now It lucaffi (sea Illustration). 4 Using a melal rod (preterably a brass drift punch) Inserted through the centre or the upper beanng. lap evenly ai‘uUnd the inner race 0' the luwer bearing to drive it from the hub (see illustrations). The bearing spacer wlll also come out. 5 Lay the wheel on its other side so that the remalnmg bearing laces down. Remove the seal and drive the bearing out 0' the whnsl Lislng the same technique as above. 6 ii me bearings are oi the unsealed type or are only sealed on one side, clean them with a high flashnpoinl solvent (one which won't leave any rsslduel and blow them dry with compressed air (don’t let the bearings spin as you dry them). Apply a few drops of all in the bearing. Not . If me beefing is sealed on both Sides dan'l attempt to clean IL 1 5.4!) . . l locating It as shown 15.5 A socketcan ha um to drive in the hanflng 15.118 Flt the gran: seal and press n Into PM“ 1 ~ . 15.13 Lifl mg sprocket cnupllng out of the wheel .or use a socket to drive it In necessary 15.113: . . IWW 7 Hold the outer race of the bearing and | rotate the inner race , if the bearing dossil’l lurn smoalhiy. has rough spots or is noisy. replace it with a new one. B If the bearlng is good and can be ra-used, wash it in solvent once again and dry it, lllqii pack ihe bearan with grease li ll ls Bulls unsealed type. S Thoroughly clean the hub area of the whul, Install the leflvhand bearing into the reoessill (he hub. with the marked or sealed Side helm outwards. Using the alt! bearing (ii new one: are being lined). a bearing driver or a socks! large enough lo Contact the outer race ol the bearing, drive It in umll it's completely sealed (see lllustraflon). 10 Turn the wheel over and Install lhe bearing spacer. Drive the other bearing into placeas described above. l 11 Fit {he speedomeler dlive plsle into M ngmmano side utthe wheel. locating them» the Cumms In the hub (see "1W I532). Apply a smearolgrease lo the llps amnesia; men press lhem into the wheel (m Illustration). Gently drive them into place ll necessary using a seal or hearing driven a suitable socks! or a piece of wood (m illustration). 12 Clean of! all grease from the brake dlscs using acetone or brake system cleaner lhan install the wheel (see Section 13). Rear wheel bearings 13 Remove (he rear wheel. and If not already done remove the spacers from it (see Ssdi‘nil l4). Lift the sprocket wupling out of the llfl' hand side ol' me wheel, noting how it Its [no Ilkistration), 0n XLBODVsH to L [1987 to 1990] models. till the brake plate assembly out olllla right-hand side ol the wheel, noting how ll ll} 14 Set the wheel on blocks so as no! to all»: me weight ollhe wheel to r851 on lhe brakedba 15 On all excepl XLGOOV-H to L [1957 in 1990) models, lever cut the grease seal on tha rightnhand slde of the wheel nslng a link bladed screwdriver, taking care not in damage the rim of the hub (see lllumlllm]. ’ ". K ' 15.15 Lever out My grease sell Brakes. wheels and tyres 7°25 Discard the seal as a new one should be used. [8 Using a metal rod (preferably a brass drift punch) inserted through the centre at tha light-hand bearing, tap evenly around the met race of the left-hand hearing to drive it [mm the hub [see illustrations 15.48 and b) 'iiia bearing spacer will also come out. 17 Lay the wheel on M other side so that tha rulnainirlg bearing laces down Drive the hearing cut oi the wheel using the same technique as above (see Illustration). [8 Pieter to Steps 6 to 8 above and nheck the bearings. ll Thoroughly clean the hub area at the wheel. Filst install the rightrhand bearing Into lls recess in this hub. with the marked Dr sealed side lacing Duiwards. Using the old hailing (ii new ones are being titted). a bearing driver or a socket large enough to s, -_ .~ g 15.20 Asockat can be used to drive in the bearing Contact the outer race of lhe bearing. drive It In squarely until it‘s completely seated (see illustration 15.9). 20 Turn the wheel over and Install the hearing spacer. Drive the left-hand side bearing into place as described shave (see illustration). 21 Check the conditinn of the hub O-ring and renew It ii it is damaged, deformed or deteriorated (so. illustration), 22 On all except XLSUOV»H to L (1987 to i990) models. apply a smear oi grease to the lips ol the new grease seal. and press it into the right—hand side of the wheel, using a seal or hearing unvar. a suitable socket or a piece at wood to drive it inlo place if necessary (see iiiustretion). 23 Clean Off all grease from the brake disc using acetone or brake system Cleaner. Fit the sprocket coupling assembly unto the wheel (see illustration 1513]. On XLBDDV~H to L 1522 Fit the grease seal and press urtap it into place Drive out the SDBDer. . . 15.21 Check the D-ring and [it a new one it uncanny (1987 to 1990) models. til the brake plate assembly Into the wheel. Install the wheel (see Section 14) Sprocket coupling bearing 24 Remove the rear wheel. and if not already done remove the spacerls) irorn it (see Sec- tion 14). Lift the sprocket coupling out at the wheel, noting how it tits (sea illustratlon 15.13). 25 Using a liatebladeu screwdriver, lever out the grease seei irom ine outside at the caupling (see illustration). 26 Remove the spacer View the inside of ihe coupling bearing, noting which way round it iIiSA The specer could be a tight iii and may have to be driven out irurn the outside using a suitable socket or piece or tubing (see illustration). Support the coupling en clocks at Wood to do this. 21 Support the caupllng on blocks of weed and drive the bearing out from the inside using a bearing driver or socket (sue illusvation). 2|! Rater to Steps 6 ti: 8 above and check the bearing. 29 Thoroughly clean the bearing recess then Install the bearing into the coupling, with the marked or sealed side facing out. Using the old hearing (it a new one is being titled), a bearing driver or a socket large enough to caniact the outer race oi the bearing, drive it In until ii is completely seated (see Illustration). 30 Fit the spacer into the inside oi the coupling, making sure it is the correct way round and ms squarely into the bearing Drive 15.” Drive in the new bearing 7-26 Brakes, wheels and tyres 15.30 Support the bearing on a socket when driving in the spacer lt into place it it is tight. supporting the bearing inner race on a suitable sacket as you do to prevent it rrom being damaged or driven out at the same time (see illustration). 31 check the condition oi the hub ornrig and replana it with a new one it it is damaged. de— formed or deteriorated (see illustration 15.21). 32 Auply a smear or grease to the lips oi the new seal, and press it into the coupling. using a seal or hearing driver. a suitable socket or a liat piece or wood to drive it into place it necessary (see illustration). As the seal sits llush with the top surface at their houslng. using a piece or wood as shown will automatically set it rlush without the risk or setting it too deep and having to lever it out again (see illustration). 33 Check the sprocket coupling/rubber dampers (see Chapter 5). 15.32: Press or drive the seal into the coupling 34 Clean 0" all grease from the brake disc using acetone or brake system cleaner. Fit the sprocket coupling into lhe wheel (see Illustration 15.13). then install the wheel (see Section 14). 16 Tyres - general information and fitting , General inlormatian 1 the wheels titted to all models are deslgrled to take lubed tyres only. Tyre sizes are given in the Specifications at the beginning of this chapter. 2 Refer to the many pie-nee) checks listed at the beginning of this manual for tyre maintenance. 1532!: Using a piece of wood as shall"! ammatically sets "19 seal flush Fitting new tyms 3 When selecting new tyres. relei to the ryii inrorrnatlon label on the swingerm and the tyre options listed in the owners handbook. Ensure that lront and rear lyre types are compatible the correct size and correct speed ratingnl necessary seek advice item a Honda deaiarar lyre ritting specialist (see illustration). 4 It is recommended that tyres are Vmsd by: motorcycle tyre specialist rather than attempted In the home workshop. A specialist will be equipped With the correct tools and levers. protectors fer the rim, will haw . compressed air, and will be able (0 balance the wheels atter tyre fitting. While the tyre it being fitted lt is worth asking rpr an alignmert check and spoke tension check. ramming» mil minim mt uni-a minim" itiii-nimimih u: int "minim. in: new wan”. uln ilitfl oiiiitvnn new we... rm intitlitnnnn its.“ mieuiriimiin Iliunwinlti min mm. in: .. imfll‘wlini mi mnmmv mm nni wuhinihlmwlflwii Amllrnlvxml net-innit MLmMIWn: ma nnmn «is .iiiii "ll mm. in hm write in intuit-iii vim mini i nir WIM‘VIULII inhuman, nn mi murmur 15.3 Common tyre sidewall markings Chapter 8 Bodywork 8'1 Contents Fairing and badypanels— removal and lrlstallatlon . Front mudguard~ remuval and installalron General lntormatlon ................. Degrees of difficulty 1 . 4 Seat»remavaland Installatlon VVVVVV . . . . 5 Rear view minors — retrieval and Installation , . . 1 General irltormation This Chapter covers the procedures necessary to remove and Install the body parts. Since many service and repair upstatians on these motorcycles require the removal of body parts, the procedures are grauped here and relerred to lrom other Chapters. In the case of damage to the body parts. it is usually necessary to remove the broken mmponent and replace it With a new (or used] one The material that the body panels are uumposed Of doesn‘t lend itself to cunventlunal repair technlbues. There are however some shops that specmlrse in ‘plasllc welding'. so It may be warthwhlle seeking the advice Ol one of these speclaltsts belore consigning an expensive component lo the bin. When attempting to remove any body panel. net study rt closely. noting any tasteners and everything to its correct place on installation. In Same cases the and at an assistant Will be required when removing panels, to help avoid the risk all damage to palntwurk. Once the avrdent rasteners have been removed. try to withde the panel as described but DO NOT FORCE IT v it It Will not release. Check that all lastsners have been removed and try again. Where a panel engages another by means at labs. be careful not to break the tab or its mating slot or to damage the paintwork. Remember that a few moments of patience at this stage will save you a lot at money in replacing broken rairing panels! When Installing a body panel. rrrst study It closely. nnting any tasteners and associated fittings remnved with ll. to be sure 0' returnlrlg everything to its correct place. Check lhat all fasteners are in good condltlon. including all trlm nuts or clips and damping/rubber mounts: any of these must be replaced if taulty before the panel is reassembled, Check also that all mounting brackets are Stralght and repair or replace them it necessary belore Easy, suitable tor § Falmemy,suitable g§ Fairly difficult. % Dmiwll. suitabletor ‘§\ Vecymnoutt. § novice with little 5%: terbeginnerwilh K suitabletbroompeterlt ‘K emetlenoed DIY .\ suitablercr expert UN 0‘ Experience Q saneexperienoe § DIV mechanic § mechanic § or mammal § assbclated fittings, to be sure at returning attempting to Install the panel. Where assrstance was required to remove a panel. make sure your assistant is on hand lo install iL Tighten the lastenars securely but be carelul not to overtighten any at them at the panel may break [not always immediately) due to the uneven stress. Where trlrn clips are used, to release them unscrew the centre at the clip, then pull the booy or the clip out or the panel When installing them, fit the body at the clip onto the panel then push the centre tully into the body. As they are made or plastic. the threads easily become worn and the centres may not unscrew, in which case lever the centre out oi the body using a small screwdriver. HAYNES Note that a small amount of lubricant {liquid soap or m similar) applied to the mnuntlng rubber grommet: a! the wt Cowling will assist the rugs to engage without the need {0’11"de "Dressure. ‘ ‘ ~ 8-2 Bodywork . ‘ then remove the said. noting how the ab (anowed! lam: under filo tank bracket 2.5:: . ‘ . noting where [115 tabs locate (arrows) Bodywork 803 _ , a..- » . t l 3.1 Pull up the mhhar cover to access the 1 "IBM“! Seat— _ , § removal and installation-7 , § » : : , \ Removal XLBOW models ii Remove the side panels (see $912!an 4). IUrisclew the two bolts (one on each side) starring the seat and remove It. noting how I! lab at the from locates under the MCI tank trinket (see Illustrating) ,XLBSOV models Iinsen the ignition key into the seat lock Nomad In the left-hand side panel and turn it clockwise to unlock the seal (use ‘llllmratlorn Fismova the seat by drawing ll luck and up. noting how it locales (tee illustration). XRV750 models 1 0n L 10 N ( 1990 to 1992) models. remove hasiue panes (see Section A). Unscrew the m bails [one on each side) securing the seat and remnve it, noting how the tab at the lront inmtes under the lucl tank bracket. 4,4a Undo the screws (arrawedl . t . 5 0n P models onwards uses-an). insert the ignition key into the seat lock located in the lafi»hand side panel and turn It clockwise lo unlock the seat (sen iilustr-tlen], Remove the seat by drawing it back and up, noting how It locates (see illustration). Installation 6 Inslallalion b the reverse of removal. Make sure the hacks and tabs locate correctly. Rear View mlmlré - l _ ‘ removal ’and Installgtiqn Removal 1 The mirrors simply screw into The handlebar mounting — pull up the rubber cover, then eilhs’ unscrew the mirror using the hex at the base of the stem, or slacken the bottom locknut and than unscrew the mirror. according ta model [an illustration), Installation 2 lnslallatlan Is the reverse 0' removal, The position ol the mirror can be adlustad by slackening the upper louknul. moving the mirror as required, then retightenirig the nut. If» Fairing and holly mush? —‘ '% removal and installatiun '§ A meow modeisi ,, & Note: Ali models have some rubber collars with capllve threaded inserts that the screws (mead into that fit mm the panels at Various places, Where the collar Ills through both the panels [I joins, it has to be lien-loved nature the panels can be separaled, Where the head of (he collar sits berween the [we panels it jams, and Marshals only actually passes through the r. 4.4:: t t . then release the pegs from the are 4.2 Undo the four screws and remove the panel lower a! the twin, ll can llama/n In place. Take care not to lose them. and remove them Ior sarmraeping ll nscwary Check the rubber rar damage, deformallcn and deleriD/atlari arid replace ms col/513 with new ones if necessaly. Do no! ovsm'ghten the screws or the collars cauld be damaged Cockpit trim panalls) 1 0n H and J (1987 and 1988) models. there is a panel on each side. each secured by three screws. Undo the screws and remnve the panel, noting now it fits. 2 On K (O X (1939 to 1999) models. there is a single panel surrounding the Instrument cluster secured by four screws. Undo the screws and remove the panel, rioting how its tabs locate In the fairing side panels (see illustration). 3 installation is the reverse cl removal Falrlng side panels 4 Undo the three screws securing the panel (see illustration). Carefully draw the panel all the tank to release the pegs from the grommets. then release it lmm the cockpit lrirn panel and lift it to release the lower grommet lrarn the peg on the bracket at the bottom (see illustrations). .L , mmels (snowed) 804 Bodywork 4.44: Lifnh: panel aflthe peg (armwed) ‘ . . 4‘ 4‘5 . i and remove the bulbholder or disconnecl the connector each side 5 Either disconnect me turn Signal wlving connector as It becomes accesslble. or release the buibnoidei lrorn the turn signal by Misting ii antlnclackwse (see Illustration). 6 Installaiion is I've reverse of removal. Falring 7 Remove lhe cockpit trim paneflsl (see above), 4.10:: . . . and disconnect the headlight wirlng connacior . . . 4.10!) . . 4 noting how the peg (A) locales in the bracket (8) 8 Undo the two screws securing the fairing on each side to me fairinu side Daneis (see Illustratlon 4‘43). 9 Support ma falling, (hen unscrew the iour bohs securlng it K0 ihe breaker (see illustrafion). 10 Draw the fairing forward, noting how the pegs ionaia In me backer. and disconnect me haadugm and sidaiigm wiring connectors as 4.1!” . . . and the sldeligm wiring connector they become acmsibie [see iiiusimiim}. 11 InstaHatlon is the reverse atmmavai Windshield 12 Undo the screws securing the windwlafl to the lalrmg and remove the rubber CHIN then carefully remove the windshield. now how it [its (see Illustration). 13 Installation is the reverse a! removal. Bodywork 8-5 4.16 fielmwlng me belly Dan Side panels I: Unscrew me slngle ball on the bottom uf ms panel. than carelully draw me panel away on release the pegs from We grommets (see “lush-aliens). 15 Installation ls we reverse a! mammal. Sally pan ‘ ls Undo the three screws and me two bolts and remve me belly pan [see illusuauon). w lrlsrtallallon ls me reverse M removal Replace ms rubbers with new ones ll they ars 4.13: Unscrew the cable holder bolt . , _ damaged, detarmed or delerioraledl Make sure "19 collars are lined in rhe rubbers. Stone guard 18 Unscrew the ball sacuring the clulch cable holder to the clutch ouvar. then delacrl (he cable end from [he releasa arm, notlng how it fits (see Illustrations), Draw Ihe cable out of the guard. norlng is roullng. 19 Unscrew the two balls ln the middle, then lift the guard ID release the tab on the bottom lrom [he hack on the frame (500 illus1rafinn). 20 Insmllarion is the reverse cl mmnval 4.1m: . . . and relnasa the cable and from the am: :5 Fairing andan ends- - , removalandlnslalatian ; _(XL650Vmudels} % s; Cockpit trim panel 1 Remove me (op wlndshleld screw on each slds (see below). Unscrew the lnwer falnng bolt on each side (see lllustra‘ion], 2 Release and wnhdraw the trim clip on each side securing the trim panel to the fairing inner panels (see Illustraclon). :. MS Unscrew HI: hols (A) and release ihe lab [3) 5.1 Unswew the fairing hell (mad) 0 each side 5.2 Release memm cllp (arrowed) on each side 8-6 Bodywork 53¢ Manoeuvrn the trlm panal a” the Instrument clusur and out of the [airing the grommet (a) l l. 3 Undo the two screws ml each Side. nmlng which fits where (m Illustration). Carefully pull the lairing away from me tank on each side to release the pegs tram the grommets (see Illustratlon). Remove the panel, notlng how It fits [see Illultmtlon). 4 lnstallation Is the reverse at removal. The self lapping screws m in the upper holes. and the normal screws in the lower holes (see Illustration 5.3a). Fairing 5 Remove the windshield, lhB cockpit trim panel. and me stone guard (see below and above). . . . and disconnect the haadllght wiring connector. . , 5.3: ssh Pull the sides art the tank tn release the pegs (arrowed) 1m: the grommets 6 Either dlsconnect me lurn signal Wm cunnectors. or release each bulbholderlmlll the turn signals by lwrstmg Ihem anfit clockwise (see Illustration), 7 Unscrew the XWO bolls 0n the top [W illustrelion) and the bolt on each side all“ bottom (sac Illustratlon 5.1). 8 Draw the lalrlng lorwards. noting haw m lugs locale ln the grommets in the bracket lhen disconnect the headlight and sidallml wiring connectars as may become accesslbh (sac Illustrations). 9 lnstellatlon is (he reverse Bl removal. Bodywork 8-7 5,10a Undo the suews and remove the rubber collars . . s , . is n x 7 . 5m: . l . then release the outer cable lrum the bracket . , . Windshield lo Undo the screws securing the windshield la the leirlng and remove the washer: and rubber collars (see Illustration). Carefully llrt , 1}. 5.223 Unscrew the halts . . . 5.14:: l t t and the finer cable end from the lever the Wlndshleld out. noll’rlg haw Its tabs on the bottom at the lronl locale (see illustration). 1| Installallun is the reverse of removal. Make sure it locales properly. Side panels 12 Remove the seat (see Section 2). 13 To remove the rightrrland panel, undo the three screws and remove it (see Illustratlon 5.14s). 14 To remove the left-hand panel. undo the three screws securing the side panel. then draw the panel away and release the seal lock cable lrom lrle brackel and the lever {see Illustraflonsl 15 lnstallallcrl is the reverse 0| removal. Belly pan la Undo the live screws and the bolt and remove “19 uelly pan. 5.193 Remove the trim clips. then release the labs . t . 17 Installation is the reverse of removal. Replace the rubbers with new ones if they are damaged. delormed or deterlorated. Make sure the collars are lined In “'12 rubbers. Stone guard 13 Release and wilhdraw the Mo trlrrl Cllps on each side. 19 Manoeuvre the panel lc release the slde labs lrarn me railing and the centre tabs an the top from the lrame (see illustrations). 20 Installation ls the reverse 0! removal. Luggage rack and tail light cover 21 Remove the seat (see Section 2) and the side panels (see above). 22 Unscrew the tour bolts securing me rack. noting lne collars. and remove the rack. nullnu lluw ll lite (see illustrallcns). t . and remmle the rack , . . 8-8 Bodywork 23 Llft "12 (all lighl cover Off the rear sub- frame (see illustration). Note the collars in the cover and remove them tor saiekeeping If they are loose. 24 Installarlon ls the reverse or removal. Make sure the all the collars are titted in the (all light CUVEV and wlth the rack bolts. 8 Fairing and body panels- removal and Installation (XRV750 models) ”WI? Cockpit trim paneils) - L to N (1990 to 1992) models only 1 There is a panel on each slde. each secured by three screws. with the rearmost screws having washers and nuts on the underside of the panel. Undo the screws. counter holding the nuts and laklng care not to lose them or the washers when removing the rear screws. and remove the panel. noting how it fits, Fairing side panels 2 On Lto N 11990 to team models. undo the three screws securlng the panel to the lainng and the trim panel. than release the quick- releasa screws by turning them 1/4 tum ante 6.33 Un 5.23 . . . and the hill liahl saver clockwise, and remove the panel, noting how it fits. a on P models onward (1993-on). undo the three screws securing the panel to the fairlng. the two screws securlng the panel to the ruel tank. and the single screw securing the panel to the stone guard. and remove the panel. noting how ll fits (see illustrations). 4 Insta|latlan is the reverse 0' removal. Fairing 5 On L to N (1990 to 1592) models, undo the two screws securing the lamina on each star: to the tram screw (5) . .. the ialrrng side panels. Support the fairing. mo unscrew the tour nuts securing it to the mum and draw ll [inwards ufl the headlight Smut”) l 6 On P models onward (1993mm. remove H11 fairing slde panels (see above). undo mt l rearmasr windshield screw on each side (In Illustration). Unscrew the bolt on eadrl stdeal the [autism (see lllustratlnn). Support till raving and remove the central screw ullhl ironl. then draw the lairlng forwards villi" headlight assembly (see illustration). 7 installation is the reverse 0' removal. Windshield B Undo the screws securing the windshieldlv the talrlng and remove the washers. then carefully remove the windshield. noting howlt flts (see lllustrallnn). 9 lnsrallarlon ls the reverse a! removal. Mull! sure the cutaul on each side locates consul] between the ralrlng and bracket Side panels 10 On Lto N (199010 lsszl modelsum the two screws. then carefully draw the pm away tn release ths pegs from the grommets 11 On P models onward (1993mm. Linda M two screws. then carefully draw the parlll 6&1: . . t and the bolt (snowed) an each slde . , . Bodywork 8-9 away [a release the peg "am the grommel [he lilusirallons]. ll Installal‘lcn is the reverse at removal‘ Belly pan 13 Undo the four Dolls and remove the belly pan (see illusfiatiuns)‘ 14 lnstallaliorl is the reverse of removal. Rsplace (ha rubbers with new ones ll they are damaged. deformed or deteriorated Make lure the Dollars are lined in the rubbers. stone guard l5 0n L to N (1990 ‘0 1992) models. remove me horn (see Chapter 9). Unscrew lhe Doll :Wlng the clutch cable holder to the clutch wver‘ men detach the cable and lrom lhe «lease arm. nolmg how it fits. Draw the cable out nf the guard‘ noring its mutingr Unscrew Ill: lwo bolts ln the mlddle and the screw on man side‘ lherl lift lhe guard to release lhe lab on the bottom from the hook on the frame. lr yuu haw lruuble manoeuvring lhe guard our, yuu wlll have to remove We of the fairing side mals. IE on P models onward (1993-onl, remove m hum (539 Chapter 9]. Undo the screw on “Ell side (sea Illustration Brab). lhen release mhcaks (mm the lugs al the top and lifl me ‘ guard to relaase the lab on the bottom lrum me hook on the frame (see illusfl'afions}. ‘ ~ 1.5 . ' J 6.133 Unscrew tha Mo balls at me from (an-owed) . . l I 6.13!) ‘ . . me two bolls at me back arrowed) ‘ . ‘ 8010 Bodywork 8.16D . . , and the tab at the bottom, and remove the guard ‘7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Fork guards ‘8 Release the Speedometer cable from its guide en rhe rlghr»hand guard. Unscrew the two bolts an the bottom at the guard. and the butt al the top, than release the guard tram the mudguard. noting how its tabs locate and taking care not to break them (see illustration). 19 lrlstallatien is the reverse of removali Luggage rack and tall light cover 20 Remove the seat (see Section 2) and the side panels (see above) :1 0n Lto N (1990 to 1992) models. carelully prise the caps ott the luggage rack bolts. 1i1a Release the cable (A) train the guide, then unscrew the rear bolt (B) on each side . . . Unscrew the six bolts and remove the collars and the rack. Unscrew the four bolts securtrlg the rack base and remove the base and the tall light cover noting how they lit. 2 0n P models onward (1993mm. disconnect the lull light wiring connector. wriere fined carelully prise the caps on the luggage rack carrier bolts, than unscrew the six bolts and remove the carrier and rack. noting the collars. Unscrew the bolt on each side of the tail light cover and remove the caver/mudguard/lall light assembly, lr required, unscrew the nuts and wlthdraw the bolts securing the rear mudguard to lhe rail light cover and separate them. If required, carefully prise the caps on the bolts securing the luggage rack to the carrier, then unscrew 7.1!: . each side and remove the guard V . the bolts and Separate them‘ Hating the collars. Separate the tail light from tile mudguard "required. 23 Installation is the reverse of removal, Make sure the all the collars are fitted in the tail light cover and with the rack bolts. 7 Front mudguard — removal and Installation Removal 1 On XL models‘ release the speedometer cable tram its guide on the rightvhand side (sea illustration). Unscrew the tour hull! securing the mudguard to the fork sllden. noting how one or the bolts secures it): speedometer cable guide on some models. and remove the mudguard. hating hewltfitl. (see illustration), Also remove the mudguard bridge. noting how it tits [see illustration). 2 On XHV models, remove the lork guard: (see Section 4} Unscrew the two from both securing the mudguard to the tnrk slider: SM remove the mudguard, rioting how it fits. Also remove the mudguard bridge. noting Illa arrow mark which must point forwards oil installation. Installation 3 Installation is the reverse of removal. Chapter 9 Electrical system 9-1 Contents Mlarilaiorrremoval, inspection and installation . Misty- charging lgnltion (main) switch— check removal and Installation .......... 19 Ignition system components ............ see Chapter 5 may removal installation inspection and maintenance . instrument and warning light bulbs ~ replacement . 17 Bette light swttcnes check and replacement , Instrument cluster and speedometer cable — removal hire/tail light bulb— replacement ....... and installation ....... , , 15 merging system v leakage and Output test . instruments check and replacement . . 15 merging system testan general lniormatlan and precautions .30 Lighting system check . . . s ,Clllcn switch check and replacement . . . Neutral switch check. removal and insta allon . . , . , . 22 medals) acheok and replacement , Oil pressure switch check removal and installation . , . 18 Electrical system - fault iinding l . Regulator/rem er - check and replacement . t t . 33 Fuses ~ check and replacement . Sidestand switch , check and replacement t , . 23 Gmual inlermalien ......... . Starter moter— disassembly. inspection and rea sem Iv . i . ,29 Handlebar switches— check . 2n Starter mater » remcval and installation 28 ilelttlebar switches— removal and installation 21 Starter relaye check and replacement , . . . . . t . 27 Mllghtalm a check and adlustment . .sea Chaptert Tail light assembly removal and Installation t . 1i) Headlight bulb and sidelight bulb - replacement . 7 Turn signal bulbs — replacement . . , 12 Headllght assembly — removal and installation a 3 Turn signal assemblies removal and Installation . . 13 lltiinecneck and replacement ............ .26 Tum Slgnal circuit check .............. , 11 Degrees of difficulty ‘Easl. suitable tor Faity easy, suitable 3% Faity difficult, 31x Difficult. suitable for 13$ Very d‘itfiwtt. § 1 rot/ice With little for beginnerw‘tth Q) suitable for competent 9E experienced DIY 9‘ suitableforswert DIY \ ‘ axpenerl' 09 some experience § DIY insomnia § mechanic § or pram “Q iSpeCIflcatlons lottery Capacity XLGOOV models V 12 V. 12 Ah XLESOV models t . 12 V‘ to Ah XRWSD models ‘2 V. 12 Ah 13.0 to l3.2 V below 12.3 v i épsclllc gravity Fully charged 1 2130 Unchargeo l , below 1,240 charging rate “DOV models Normal” 1,2Aicr51eto hrs Quick, , . ADAiortionr XLESOV models Normal 119 A tor 5 to 10 hrs Quick . ., 4.0Alor1tfl m xnwaii models Normal“ . l.2Afor5mtDtlrs 7 Quick .. 4.0 Aror 1.0 hr Currant leakage uni mA (max) 9-2 Electrical system Alternator Slater coll raismnce ..................................... . Ompm XLEDOV-H and J (1987 and 1988) models XLGOOV—K m P (1989 to 1993) models . . XLGOUV-H to X [1994 lo 1999) models . . XLSSUV models UK models Eurupearl models XHV750 models . . , Regulator/rectifier Regulated voltage umpul meow models . . xussov mousls . xnwsu models Slaner motor Brush lenglh Slandard XL models . . XRV models Serv'lce limit lmln) Fuses Mam .................................................. Others XLSDOV modsls UK models . . German medals XL650V models , , XRV'ISD- L and M (1990 and 1991) models XRWSU- N [1992) models . XHW50- P to S (1993 to 1995) models. va750 -T models onwards (1996- -ol1) Bulbs Headllghl ............................................... Sldsllgm xLeoov models . XLGSDV models , xFlv75l) models . Llcense plate llghl (where lined) Brake/la” light Turn Slgnal llghls Instrumenl llgms XLBODV-H and J (1957 and 1938) models stuova lo X (1939 lo 1999) models . XLSSOV models ................... XRWSOVL and M (1990 and 1 991) mudsls XRV‘ISDVN models onward (1992—0n) Tum slgnal inalcamr light XLSDOV models. . . XL650V models. . va750- L and M (1990 and 1991) models XRV750 N models onward (1992—0n) High beam indlcalor lighl xLlsuoer and .l (1987 and 1939) models XLsouer lo x (1959 to 1999) models V stsnv models .............. XRV750 models . ........... Nsulral indlcamr llghl XLGOUV-H and J (1837 and 1938) models xLaonv- -K to X (1989 [cl 1999) models . XLGSUV models XHWSD—L and M (1990 and 1991) models XRWSD N models onward (1992mm). DJ (01.0 ohms 310 w @ 5000 rpm 350 w @ soon rpm 310 w @ 5000 rpm 368 w a 5000 rpm 310 W a 5000 rpm 360 w a 5000 rpm 135 to 15.5 V E 5000 rpm 1440(0153 V @ 5000 rpm 14.010151) V @ 5000 rpm l2.0t013.0 mm 10.0 mm 6.5 mm 30A 10Ax3.‘lhAx1 10Ax4.15AX1 1DAX4.15AX1 1UAX2. ZDAXZ 5Ax1.lDAx2.20Ax3 10Ax3.15Ax1.20Ax1(lemGermany) 10Ax3,15Ax1,20Axl 50/55 w halogen 4.DW 5.0W 40W 5.0W 21/5W 21 W 1.7Wx3 3.4WX3,3.0WX1 1.7Wx3 1.7Wx3 1.7Wx3.2.0Wx1 3.4 W 3.4 W 3.4 W 3.0 W 1,7W (LOW 1.7W 1.7W 3.4 W 3.0 W 3.4 W 3.4 W 3.0 W Electrical system 9-3 l Bulbs (continued) 0i pressure indicator light XLSDflV—H and J [1937 ano 1988] models . XLsuov- K to x (1939 to 1999) models . assay models , , xrtvrso L and M (1990 and 1991) models . XRWSUrN mooeis onward ii saz-on). «stand inoicator light xtonov-K to X [1989 to 1999) models . xtasov models XRWSO N models onward lisez onl immobiliser inoicator light (XLESDV) . Torque settings Alternator rotor bolt (ielt hand thread) xtanuv H and J (1937 and 1988) models . All other models . Alternator stator colts . Neutral switch Ull pressure switch XR’VTEU L and M llgéfl and 1991) models . , 3.4 W 1.7 W 1.7 W 34 W 3.0 W 1.7 W L7 W 3,4 W 3.0 W 5.4 W 110 Mm 125 Nm lZNm 12Nm 12Nm :1 General iniorrrtatiori i All models have a iz-volt electrical system charged by a three—phase alternator with a spa/ate regulator/rectifier, The regulator maintains the charging system output within the specified range to nieverrt overcharging, and the rectiiier tonverts the ac (alternating current) output or tile alternator to no (direct current) to power the lights and other components and to charge the battery. rhe alternator rotor is mounted on the left-hand end or the crankshaft. The starter motor ts mounted on the top at tlia crankcase behlnd the cylinders on the lofts hand srde. The starting system Includes the ‘iiiatnr, the battery. the relay and the various wires and SWitches. and a starter salsty illerlock system. On XLSDDV-H and J (1987 M1988) models wltl’lout a sidestand switch. lithe engine kill switch is tn the RUN position and the lgnitlon (main) switch is ON. the Marlock system prevents the engine tram who started ll the engine is in gear unless the notch lever is pulleo in. On all other models, it lteenglna ltlll swrtch is in the RUN pOSlliori Ind the ignition (main) swrtcri is ON, the ‘syslam prevents the engine from being istarted ll lhe sldestand is down and the engine is in gear — the engine can be started with the sidestano up when it is in gear as bill as the clutch lever Is pulled in. Natl: Keep in mind that electflcal Harts, once purchased. often cannot be returned. To avoid unnecessary expense, make very sure the raully componenr has oeen positive/y identified before buylng a replacement part. 2 Electrical system — ,fault finding ' Warning: To prevent the risk or A short circuits. the Ignlt‘lon (main) switch must always be OFF and the bamry negative (-) terminal should be disconnected before any of the bike’s other electrical components are disturbed. Don‘t forget to reconnect the terminal securely once work is finished or i! battery power is needed for circuit testing 1 A typical electrical clrcuit consists or an electrical component. the swnches relays. etc related to that component and the wiring and connectors that link the component to the battery and the frame To aid in locating a problem in any electrical circuit. and to guide you with the wiring colour codes and connectors, reier to the wiring Disgmrris at the and or this Chapter. 2 Beiore tackling any troublesome electrical circuit. first study the wiring diagreiii (see end of Chapter) thoroughly to get a complete picture of what makes up that lnnividual circuit. Trouble spots. lor instance. can often be narrowed down by noting l1 other components related to that circuit are operating properly or not. It several components or circuits rail at one time. chances are the fault lles in the fuse or earth (ground) connection. as several circuits often are routed through the same fuse and earth (ground) connections 3 Electrical problems orieri stern irom simple causes. such as loose or corroded connectlons or a blown ruse. Prior to any electrical Vault finding. always Visually check the condition of the luse. wires and connections in the problem circuit. intermittent tailures can be especially irustrating. since you can't always duplicate the lailure when it's convenient to test. In such sltuatlons. a good practice is to clean all connections in the afiected ClWUit. whether or not they appear to be good. All or the connections and wires shoulo also be wlggled to check tor Iooseness which can cause intermittent iailure. 4 tr testing instruments are going to he utilisedi use the WIrlng diagram to plan where you will make the necessary connections in order to accurately pinpoint the trouble spot. 5 The basic tools needed for electrical iauil liridlrlg include a battery and bulb test circuit or a continuity tester, a test light, and a lumper wire. A multimeter capable or reaolng volts. ohms and amps is a very usehii alternative and perlnrms the luncIIons 01 all at the above. and is necessary tor performing more extensive tests and checks where speclrlc voltage. current or resistance values are needed. 5 Enter 1n Favrt Fluorine Equipment In the Reference section tor details or how to use electrical test equipment 9-4 Electrical system 3.2!: . . . than I"! the terminal cmr and disconnect the positive lead 3.32 . t . and remove it 3.1 aunerrelay in) and its wiring connector (is) 3 Battery — _ l removal, installation. inspection and maintenance § Caution: Ba extramely careful when handling 11! working around the batman rne elnctmlyte is very atrium arid an sxplosiva gas (hydrogen) is givan arr whan the uauery is charging. Removal and installation XLGOOV and XRV750-L to N (1990 to 1592) models I Make sure the Ignltion is swltchEd OFF. Remove the righthand slde panel (see Chair ter 8L 2 Unscrew the negative (e) terminal bolt tint and disconnect the lead fmm the battery (sh illustration). Lift up the red lnsulatlng novella access the poslt-lve (+) terminal, then unsulw the bolt and disconnect "19 lead (an! Illustratloni :l Unscrew the two battery retaining marlin bolts and remove the bracket. noting howll fits (see Illustratlons). Disconnect the breather tube from IB union (see iiluslntloiil Draw the battery away lmrn the bike and remove it (see Illustration). 4 on installation. make sure Ihe battery bracket is cowectly titted and secure. CISEII the battery terminals and lead ends with a wlrs brush or knife and emery paper, Do not target to connect the breather tube to its unionv When reconnecting the leads. connecting the positive iii terminal inst Battery corrosion can be Ml to a mlnlmum by applylrigi lsyur of pctroluum [ally to In , terminals after that ashlar hm be." cannot-20d. Thin are H» dedicated'smays mallymmt 5 Install the side panel (see Chapter 8), XL650V models 6 Make sure the ignition ls switched OFF. Remove the rightetiand side panel (see Chapter 3). 7 Unscrew the battery negative l—i terminal Doll first and disconnect the lead erm the battery. Disconnect the starter relay wiring connector (see illustratinn), Lift up (tiered insulating cover tn access the battery positive in terminal. ihen unscrew the bull and disconnect the leadv 8 Displace Ins starter relay assembly liom its home! on the battery retaining bracket [EM illustration in Unscrew the nut sscurlngltle brackst at the tap, then lift it to release lhl tabs from the slots In the battery box Remain the battery liorri the bike. 9 0n lnstallatlon, make sure the battaiy bracket is correctly fitted and secure. Clean till Battery terminals and lead ends with awim brush or kniie and amen! paper, than reconnecting the leads, connect the positive (r) Electrical system 9-5 lminal first. Connect the starter relay Wiring connector alter the battery negative 1—) terminal. Battery contusion. Defiant to a minimum by apply)ng a layer oipotrolainrr patrolsmrrisiiy In the terminals alter the cables lit-w been delineated. more are also l WWW commercially avalleble to install the side panel (see Chapter 3). XRV750-P models onward (1993~on) it Make sure the ignition is switched OFF. Remove the seat (see Chapter 3). l2 Release the tool kit strap and remove it. Unscrew the bolt securing the battery cover anti remove the cover. noting how its tabs on the bottom locate (see Illustration). ‘3 Unscrew the negative (—) terminal bolt first and disconnect the lead from the battery (see illustration). Lift up the red insulating cover to access the positive l+l terminal. then unscrew the bolt and disconnect the lead. Slide the battery out of its box. then till it slightly inwards the rear of the bike so that you can your hand on It and lift it out ti on installation. clean the battery terminals ind lead ends with a wire brush or kniie and emery paper Reconnect the leads, connecting the positive (+l terminal ilrst. Make sure the cover locates correctly and is secure. HAYNES Battery corrosion can bekept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum [ally to the [annuals alter "(a cable: lilvn been connected. There are also dedicated may: commutaliyawalleble. 15 inetall the seat (see Chapter 8). inspection and maintenance is Reler to Chapter 1 for scheduled maintenance, The lollowing checks should list) he regularly performed. ti Check the battery terminals and leads tor munsto ‘ . * 3.125 Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) . . . tightness and corrosion, It corrosion is evident. undo the terminal bolts and disconnect the leads lrom the battery, disconnecting the negative 1—) termlnal first. and clean the terminals and lead ends with a wire brush or knife and emery paper. Reconnect the leads. connecting the negative [—) terminal last. and apply a thin coat oi petroleum telly or dielectric grease to the connections to slow turther corrosion. 18 Keep the battery case clean to prevent current leakage. which can discharge the battery over a period or time iaspsclalty when it sits unused). Wash the outside at the case with a solution at baking soda and water. Rinse the battery thoroughly. then dry it. 19 Lack for cracks In the case and replace the battery with a new one it any are found It acid has been spilled on the harm; or battery box. neutralise It with a baking soda and water solution. dry it thoroughly. than touch up any damaged paint. 20 It the motorcycle sits unused for long Derlods at time, disconnect the cables. negative (-i terminal iirst. Fioier to Section 4 and charge the battery once every month to six weeks. 21 Check the condition or the baltery by measuring the voltage present at the battery terminals. Connect the voltmeter pusitive (+) probe to the battery positive (r) terminal. and the negative (-l probe to the battery negative (-l 3.12!) . . . and remove the cover terminal. when fully charged there should be 13.0 to 13.2 volts present. it the voltage rails below 12.: volts the battery must be removed. disconnecting the negative l—l terminal hrst, and recharged as described below in Sectiun 4. 4 Battary- § charging , 9% ‘\ Caution: Ba extremely careful when handling or working around tho battery. The elecrrnlyte Is very caustic and an explosive gas (hydrogen) is given of! when the battery Is charging, 1 Remove the battery (see Sectiun 3). Connect the charger to the battery. making sure that the positive (4) lead on the charger is connected to the positive (i) terminal on the battery. and the negative l.) lead is connected to the negative (7) terminal. 2 Honda recommend that the battery is charged at the normal rate speclfied at the beginning of the Chapter. Exceedlng this rigure can cause the battery to overheat. buckling the plates and rendering it useless. Few owners will have access to an expensive current controlled charger, so it a normal domestic charger IS used Check that alter a possible initial peak. the charge rate lalls to a sale level (sea illustration). If the battery CHARGER AMMETER 3.13 Unscrew the negative (-) lead (A) first. then the positive (+1 lead (a) 4.2 If the charger doesn't have emmeter built In, connect one in series as shown. DO NDY connect the ammeter between the battery terminals 0' it WIII be mined 9-6 Electrical system 5.2- scam" rel-y (arrowed) — xuaoov models becomes hot durlng charging stap. Funher charglng will cause damage. Note: In emergencies the battery can be charged a! the quick rare specified. However. this is no! recommended and the normal charging rate is by far the safer method of charging the battery. 3 If the recharged baitery dlschaiges rapidly ll left disconnected ll is likely that an imemal short caused by physmal damage or sulphatlon has occurred. A new hemat'y will be required A sound item will (and to lose Its charge at about 1% per day, 4 install the battery (see Section 3) 5 ll the motorcycle sils unused for long pellads cl lime. charge the battery once every month to Slx weeks and leave ll disconnected. 52b Sinner relay (arrowed) - XRV750-P mndels on 5 _- Fuses — - 5 .check and replacement 1 The electrical system is prctectsd by luses of different railings. 2 The main luse ls Integral with the starter relay. which Is bsl'llnd the right-hand side panel on XL models and XRV750—L m N (1990 to ISBZ) models (552 lllustratlon and 3.7). and bahlnd the leflshand Slde panel on all other XRV models (sse lllustmllon]. To access the main (use. dlsconnect the startsr relay wiring connector (see illustration). 3 All Circult fuses are housed in the fUSsDOX. which is located as follows: 5.3:; Fusebcx (armwed) - XL65UV models ll 5.2a Disconnect the relay wiring connector ‘0 access the maln fuse (mowed) I On XLGODV models the iusebox Is all Illa mp yake next m m; ignition swltch lsu lllustrallon) C On XL65OV mudels the lusebox is behlm tne lemnancl slde panel (sea illustration). I On XHV'ISO-L to N (1990 to 1992) models the fussbox ‘ls between the handlebars and the instrument cluster. I On all Other XR’V models ma lusebox Is he- hind the rightrharld sidc panel (see illusnaumtl To access the circuit luses uncllp lhelusehux lid (sec illustrations), 4 The {uses can be removed and checks} visually. ll you can't pull Ihe tuse out wilh your fingertips. use a pair at suitable pliers. A blown luse ls easily ldemified by a breaklntm element (see illustration). 5.30 Fusebox (armwed) — XHV‘ISO-F madels an lllllll :lL. H28946 llllllllllllllll . . c to access the fuses 5.4 A blcwn fuse can be identified by. break in Its elemem Electrical system 9- 5 Each tuse is clearly marked with Its rating and must only be replaced by a ruse oi the correct rating. A spare ruse or each rating except the main fuse is housed in the illsebox. and a spare main {use ls housed with tlie starter relay (see Illustration). it a spare ruse is used. always replace it so that a spare of each retlng Is carried on the bike at all times. A higher rating or bridge the tarmlnels with any other substitute. however temporary it may be. Serious damage may be done to the mull. or a fire may start. 5 It a luse blows. be sure to check the Wiring circuit very caratuily tor evidence of a short- circuit. Look lor bare wires and chofed. melted or burned insulation. ii the fuse Is replaced before the cause is iocated. the new illse will blow immediately. 1 Dccasionally a fuse will blow or cause an open-circuit for no obvious reason. Corrosmn M the rose ends and fusehox terminals may occur and cause poor ruse contact. II this happens, remove the corrosion with a wire brush or emery paper, then spmy the lose and and terminals with electrical contact cleaner. Wanting: Never put in a fuse are 6' Lighting system — check’ ”I” I The battery provides power for operation of the headlight. tail light. brake light and ristmmant cluster lights. it none or the lights upstate, check the battery first. making sure lire terminals are clean and secure and the voltage level is sumoisnt. Low oattsry voltage ridicetes either a neglected or faulty battery or a defective charging system. Reler to 580mm 3 for battery checks and Sections 30 am 31 lor charging system tests. Also, check the luses. Note that it there is more than one '53 to 55 A spam main ruse (arrowad) Is housed with me relay fault relating to a multl-Vunn‘tion component. such as one otlha tunes governing more than one circuit. or the ignition switch. Headlight 2 lta headlight beam fails to work, first check the (use (see Section 5). and then the hu|b(s) (see Section 7). If they are good, use jumper wires to connect the bulb in question directly ID the battery terminals. it the llght comes on. the problem lies in the erlhg or connectors. the switches in the circuit. or the relayls) (xnvrso models). Alternatively the bulb can be checked ror continuity using a millimeter, Reter to Section 20 for the switch testing procedures, and also to the wiring diagrams at the and of this Chapter. 3 On UK and some European XF|V750 models. a relay controls each or the headlight circuits. Le. one lOr HI beam. one for L0 beam. On other European models there is 3 HI beam relay only. Reisr to the relevant Wiring Diagram at the end at the Chapter ior your model. or slmply remove the iairing (see Chapter 8). and check to see whether there are two relays or one {or the headlights. it a beam does not work and the relay ls suspected of being rauity, the easiest way to teli is to suhstituto it With the other one (twin relay models) or another one (single relay models) it available. Remove the fairing to 6.3a HI beam relay (snowed) access the relaylsj (see illustrations). ii the beam then works, the iaulty relay must be replaced with a new one. ii a substitute is not available. remove the suspect one and test it as follows: set a multimeter to the ohms x 1 scale and connect it across the relays white/green and white/black (LO BEAM) or blue/yellow (Hi beam) wire terminals. There should be no continuity (infinite resistance). Using a fully-charged 12 volt battery and two insulated jumper wires. connect the positive l+) terminal of the battery to the white (LO beam) or blue (HI beam) wire terminal of the relay. and the negative l-i terminal to the green wire terminal. At this point the relay should be heard to click and the meter read 0 ohms (continuity). It this is the case the relay is good. If the rsiay does not click when batteny voltage is applied and Indicates no continuity [infinite resistance) across its terminals. it is iaulty and must be replaced with 3 new one. s It the relay is good, check for battery voltage at the white/green wire terminal on the relay wiring connector With the ignition ON. ii there is no voltage. check the Wiring between the relay wiring connector and the ignition switch. Via the tueeoox. then check the switch itself (see Section ‘9), it voltage IS present. check that there is Continuity to the headllght wiring connector in the blue or white wire (according to relay). and continuity to earth (ground) in the green wire irorn the headlight connector. Also check for battery voltage at the while or blue (according to relay) wire terminal on the relay Wiring connector with the Ignition ON. the light switch ON and the dimmer SWItCh Set to L0 or HI as required. If voltage is present. check lor continuity to earth (ground) in the green wire irern the relay wiring connector. Repair or renew the wiring or connectors as necessary. 5 If the law beam does riot work on single relay models. check tor battery voltage at me white wire terminal on the headlight Wiring connector with the lgnltlon ON. the light switch UN and the dimmer switch set to L0. If 9-8 Electrical system 72: Disconnect the wiring connector - XLSOOV voltage is present. chock tor continuity to earth (ground) in the green wire irorn the Wil‘irig connector. Repair or renew the Wiring or connectors as necessary. If there Is no voltage. check the wiring. connectors and switches. Tail light 6 If the tail light tails to work. first check the ruse (see Section 5). and then the bulbs (see Section 9i it they are good. use lumps! wires to connect the bulb in question directly to the battery terminals. Ii [he light comes on. the problem lies in lhe wiring or connectors. or the switches in the Circuit Alternatively the bulb can be checked for continuity using a mullimeter, Reler to SeCllOn 20 for the switch testing procedures. and also to me wiring diagrams at the end at this Chapter, 1 Check for battery voltage atiho brown wire terminal on ihe tail light wiring connectors with the ignition switch ON. Ii voltage is present. check tor continuity to earth (ground) in the green wire horn the wrnng connector. If no voltage is indicated, check the wiring and connectors between the tail light and the ignition switch, via the iusebox and the handlebar Switch. the" check the ignition switch itself (see Section l9). Brake light 5 If either or both brake lights fall to Work. first check the lusa (see Section 5X and than the bulbs [see Section 9). it they are good. use iurnper Wires to connect the bulb in question direclly in the battery terminals. it the light comes oh. the problem lies in the wiring or 733 Remove the dust Cover 7.2:: Disconnacl the wiring connector — xussov conneclnrs. or the Switches in the Circuit Alternatively the bulb can be checked for continuity using a multimeter. 9 Check tor battery voltage at the green/yellow wire terminal on the tail light Wiring connectors. first with the front brake lever on. then with the rear brake pedal on, It voltage is present with one brake on hut not the other. lherl the switch or its wiring is faulty. Ii Valtage is present in both cases. check for continuity to earth (ground) in the green wire lrorn the wiring eonnsc ors. it no voltage is indicated, check the w 9 and connectors between the brake light and the brake switches. the iusebox. and the ignition swhch, then check the SWitches themselves (see Section VA for the brake light swnches and Section 19 in! the ignition switch). Instrument and warning lights ‘0 See Section i7 lct instrument and warning light bulb replacement. Tum signals 11 See Section 11 foriurrl signal circuit check § Note: The headlight bulbs are at the quartz- halogon type. Do not touch the bulb glass as skin adds will shorten the ill/[D's service life. If the bulb is accidentally touched, it should be Wiper: careriirly when cold with a rag soslmd in methylated spirit and drled Dela/e fitting. 7 Headlight bulb and sideltght bulb —- replacement 7.3!) Release the cllp . . . 7.2a Headlight wiring connectors (snowed) - xnv7so Warning: Allow the bulb "ml to A cool before removing it ll the headlight has just been on. Headlight 1 On all except XHVTSO-P models Onward (1993mm. remove his cockpit trim panel has Chanter B). Ii access IS loo restricted for you. on XlemV and XRV750 models remove the fairing side panells), and on XLBSOV models either remove the shield secured to ma bottom yoke and try hum there. or remove the fairing (see Chapter 8]. 2 Disconnect the wiring connector troni the back of the headlight [see illustrations). 3 Remove the rubber dust cover. noting haw ll his (see illustration). Release the bulb retaining clip. noting how it fits. then remove the bulb (sea illustrations). 4 Fit the new bulb. bearing in mind it! information in the Note above. Make sure the tabs on the bulb tit Correctly in the sluts in it! bulb housing. and secure it In position with the retaining clip. 5 Install the dust cover. making sure it is correctly seated and with the ‘TOP’ marital the top, and connect the wiring connector. 6 Check the operation at the headlight. Install the panels (see Chapter 8]. Always use a paper in . dry doth when lundllnyndi bulbs to prevent iniurylflbp. Bulb should break and Mr incense bulb life. 13¢ . t . and remove the bulh~ XLSOOV shown Electrical system 9-9 Sidellght 1 On all except XL650V and XRV750»F‘ modela onward l19930fl) models. remove lhe wckpil lrlm panel (sse Chapter in. If access ls lau leslricled for you. remove ma lalrlng side panells). On XLBSOV models, release the lwo lrlrn cllps securing me access panel on me underside ol the lairing and remove the panel. mung how it fits (sea illusfi'ailcns). E Camully pull the bulhholdar am of its socket Draw out the bulbholder . . . hull) In the bulbholder. than inslall the holder, Make sure ii is causally sealed. 9 Check the operatlan of (he SldellgM‘ Inslall the lrlm panel or access panel as required. *2 § ,5'. Headlight assembly— _: lemoval and lifstallatlm hills base of the headlight (53: illustrations). RGMOVEI Remove the bulb (see Illumion) Fit the new 3...: We; 5.33 Headlight screws (mowed)— stoov 1 Remove the falling (see simpler a). 7.511 . . . and remove tho bulb - XLGDOV 2 On XLBDUV-H to P (1987 m 1993] modsls, undo me three scraws Seedling [he haadllghl relainer and remove ll. Draw lhe headlighl cm 01 Its bracket, then disconnect ll‘le headlight wlrlng conneclor and pull me sidellghl bulbholder oul‘ and remove me headllglll. 3 On XLGDOVvR (D X (1994 I0 1999) models and XLESOV models. undo the screws or bulls securing the headlight assembly in me lainng and remove the headllgm. nuling Iluw ll fils (see illustrations), 4 0n XRV7SD models, dlsconnecl (he side- llgm and headllghl wlrlng connector: (sec up Headlight bolls (arrowed) - xuisov 9-10 Electrical system 8.4a Sidellght wiring connector (snowed) 5.46 Unscrew the bull larrnwad) on each side A . . illustration and 7.2:). and release the headlight relaylsl and turn signal relay from lheil mourns (sea lllustratlans). Suppon me headllghl. then unscrew the two bolts securing the headlighl assembly and iill ll cut at the grommels on the bonnm, rioting how It fits (see illumraflons), Nole the collars in the 5.40 . . . than im lilo liaadiighl assembly to clear the peg lrom me grommet mp mounts. Check ll-le rubber grommets for damage. defulmaliun and deterioration and replace them With new ones If necessary. Installation 5 lnslallallon Is the reverse of removal. Make sure all lhe wiring is correctly conneclsd and 9.1!) . .. : a a» / 8.40 . . . and the HI beam and [um signs relays (arrowedl secured. Check me operation or me heaflllgll and sidellgl’lt. Check me headllghl alm (sea Chaplar 1]. ,l i g R, Note: The laws on the bulbs are offset SO may can only be installed one way. It is a gaad i'dail to use a paper rowel or dry cloth when handling the new bulb in preveni Injury ll ll breaks, and la increase bulb life. XLEOOV and xnwso models 1 Undo lne lwo screws securing the all llljll lens and remove il (sea Illustralions). Caielully push me bulb in slightly and iwislll anti-clockwise to release ll (see illuslrallnri]. Check the socket lermlnals lor ooriosloii snll clean them it necessary, 2 Install the new bulb by pushing i1 lnlOIlIE socket and twlsllng it Clockwise Check (ll! sandman of lhe rubber sealing ring and replace il MW 3 new one ii necessary Male sure it is properly sealed. Fll the lens and secure rt wuri lhe screws, making sure are ring stays sealedr and taking carp mil lrl Ovemghlen the screws as the lens threads an easlly damaged and me lens easily cracked, XL650V models :1 Remove ma seat. and W rsqulred m lrflpmvl access the tall llgm cover (see Chaplet a) Tum me bulbholder anli-clockwlse and wiliiuiaw ll from the tail ilgm (m illustration) Carefully 9 Brake/mil light bulb — replacement 9.33 Remove ma bulbl'loldar from the tall lighl . . . 93b . . . and the bulb train the holdur (arrow) Electrical system 9-11 l 10.25 On XLSOOV models the tail light and turn signal wiring connectors are inside the boot larrowedi pull the bulb cut at Its socket (see Illustration) Check the socket terminals for corrosion anti clean them it necessary. 4 Install the new bulb by pushing lt into the socket — It can be installed either way round. Fit the hulbholder into the tail light and turn it clocKWlse to secure It. 10 Tail light assembly # removal! and installation ”WW Removal 1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8) On XRWSn-P models onward (1993-on). remove the right‘hand side panel (see Chapter is) 2 On XLGOOV models. disconnect the tail light wiring connectors (see illustration). Support the tall light, than undo the nuts on the msme oiitie rear mudguard and remove the washers and rubbers (sea illustration). Draw the tail light out and remove It. noting now It fits. a 0n XL650V mooais. remove the luggage rack and tail light cover (see Chapter 3), Either disconnect the wiring connector from the bulbhnldev (see illustration). of turn the 10.2b Tell light assembly nuts (snowed) bulbholder antlscloolese and withdraw ll (mm the tail light (see illustration 9.33). Support the tail light. then unscrew the two bolts and draw the light out the back (see Illustration). Note the Collars in the rubber mounts and remove them it required. Check the condition at the rubbers and replace them with new ones a they are damaged. deicrmed or deteriorated. 4 On XRWSO models. disconnect the tail light wiring connector. located in the runner uoot (see illustration). Support the tall light. than undo the bolts on the inside at the rear mudguard. Draw the tail light out and remove it. noting how it tits. Installation 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Check the operation of the tall and brake lights. 11 Turn signal circuit -—‘ - check 1 Most tum signal problems are the result at a burned out bull: or mrrclded socket This is especially true when lit» lllrn signals lilnr‘tinrl 10.3b . . . and moumlng bolts (arrawed) — XLSSUV k .. rug... . C" lg 10.33 Tall light wiring connector (snowed) . . . properly In one direction. but tail to llash in the other direction. It this is the case. first check the bulbs, the sockets and the wiring connectors. it all the turn signals tall in work. first check the fuse (see Section 5). and then the relay [see below). it they are good. the problem lies in the Wiring or connectors. or the switch. Reta! to Section 20 for the switch testing procedures. and also in the wiring dlwrams at the end of this Chapter. 2 The easiest way to tell it the relay is taulty is to substitute ll with another one. it available. If the turn signals than work. the original relay is Confirmed taulty. C On XLSDUV-H and J (1967 and 1988) models, remove the right-hand cockpit trim panel (see Chapter 8) to access the relay. 0 On all other XL models. remuve the Cockpit trim panel. ll access is too restricted for you. on XLGOOV models remove the lairlrlg. and stsuv models remove the Windshield. and than it required the iairing (see Chapter a), I On XRV750 madels. remove the right-hand lairrng side panel (see Chapter 5) to access the relay. 3 ll a substitute is not avallable. or It It does not solve the problem, displace the relay and disconnect the wiring nonnnnlnr [see ‘A 10.4 On XHWSO models the tail light and turn signal wmng connectors are inside the boot (arrowed) 9-12 Electrical system % . 11t3a Turn signal relay (arrawad) — ov illunmfions). Check for banary voltage at the black wire lsrmlnal on the loom side at the connector with ma lgnlllon ON, Turn the ignllion OFF when the Check is complete. ll no voltage was present. check the wlrlng from the relay to the ignition (main) swrtch (via the fuseboxl for continuity. If voltage was present. and ti connected on your model. check the green wire from the connector for continuity to earth (ground). Repair or renew the wiring or connectors as nscsssary. 4 Using a lumper wire. connect between the black and grey wire terminals on (he conneu‘lur. Turn lhe ignition ON and operate the turn signal swltch. ll the turn slgnals now work. replace the relay With a new one. 5 ll the turn signals still don't work. use me approprlale Wiring diagram at the end of this Chapter and chsck the wiring and connectors belween the relay. lurn Signal switch and turn , t 11.31: Turn Signal relay (an-owed) - XLGSOV signal llghls icr conllnullyt Repair or renew the wiring, connectors or switch as necessary. § Nome: Iris 5 goodidea (O useopaper laws! ar dry Cloth when handling the new bulb to prevent injury if the bulb should break and la increase bulb life. XLEOOV models 1 To access the (rent turn signal bulbs. lemove the leirtng slde panel (see Chapter 8), though the bulb can be changed with ll llr sllu. Till/Isl [he bulbholdsr mil-clockwise and withdraw ll fmrrl the lens (sea Illuslrafion). Carelully push the bulb inlo the holder and lwlsl il antla ’12 Turn slgtlal bulbs- rsplacernenl , ‘ 1.11. 11.3: Tum signal relay [arrawnd] — xnwso clockwise to remove ll (see Illustration) 2 Check the socket terminals lor corruslull and clean them if necessary. Line up the plns or the new bulb with the sluts in the sacral then push the bulb in and turn ll clockwise unlll ll. locks lnln place. Fl‘ Il'ls bulbholdarlmn the lens and turn il clockwise to secure ll. Check that the turn signal works correctly. 3 Reisr tn Steps 7 lo ll '01 the rear turn signal bulbs. XL650V models 4 To access the lronl turn Signal bulbs. undo the screws and release the lrlm clip securing the Inner lrlm panel lo the Inside of (he lalrim and remove [he panel. rioting how il l‘lls [Du illustrations). Turn ll'la bulbllolaer antl- clockwise and Withdraw it from the tail Iipll! [see illuslraflunl, Carefully pull the bulb out of Its socket (see illustration). 12.4!» . . . anothe trim cllp (arrowaol ano remove the inner panel 1944: Release Ihe bulhholder (arrowed) r . t lzdd . . . men pull ll" bulb fmm flu holder Electrical system 9013 127 Remove the screw and detach the lens 5 Check the socket terminals lar carrosinn and clsarl them if necessary. install the new hulb by pushing it into the socket , it can be lnslalled either way round Fit the bulbholdsr Inlo me tail light and turn it clockwise to sscura it 6 Refer to Steps 7 lo 11 lor the rear turn signal nulbs. XRV models 1 Undo the screw securing the lens and dslach the lens lram [he housing. hating how ll fits (see illuslrfit‘ian] Where lilled. remove lhe rubber gasket ll ll is free. and discard it il it Is damagedl detnrmed or deteriorated, 8 Push the bulb Into lhe holder and lwlsl It anti-clockwise in remove it (see illustratlanl 9 Check the socket lermlnals for Corrosion and clean them it necessary. 10 Line no lne pins or the new bulb with the slots in the Socket. then push (he bulb in and 128 Ramova H13 bulb from file huldar turn it clockwise until it lacks into place. 11 Where liliedl fit a new mbber gasksl Onto the housing ll required. and make sure It is propsrly seated and does not get pinched by the lens. Fit the lens onto the housing, locating the tab an the inner end oi the lens Into me cutout on the housing. and install the screw (see illustration). Do not ovenlghterl the starew as it is easy to strip the threads or crack the lens Check [hat me turn signal Removal wnrks correctly. XL models — front 1 Remove the l‘alrirlg side panel 1539 Chap- 13 Turn signal aséemlzllu - removal and histalla‘rlan ‘ 12.11 Make aura tho lens locates correctly (er 8). On XLGSDV models. undo the screws and remove lhe Inner trlm panel (sea illustration), 2 If not already done, twist the bulbholder anticlockwise and wilhdraw it from the lens (see illustration), 3 Undo the screws securing the turn signal lens to the lalnng side panel. on XLBDDV models noting the wiring clamp, and remove the lens assembly. noting now It fits (see illustrations). XRV models — front 4 Trace the Wiring from the turn signal and dlsconnect it at the connectors (see illustration) - on L to N (199010 1992) models. remove the cockpit mm panel to improve acuass ii required (see Chapter 5). 5 Unscrew the nut securing the stem to lhe inside of the bracket (see illustration). Remove the turn signal, noting how it locates l3.1 Undo the screws (snowed) and remove the inner panel 13.3h Tum anal screws (arrcwed) - XLBSOV XLBOOV ISA Disconnect the relevanl wiring connectors . . . 13.5 . . .lhen unscrew the nut (at-rowed) 9 and ramova the turn signal 9-14 Electrical system 13.7 Rear turn signai w’ ing connectors - XLBSD use near tum signal nut (mowed) — xusoov . an a tub Reartum signal nut (snowed)— XL650V in the bracket. and taking care as you draw the Wiring through. All models - rear 6 Remove the seat (see Chapter BL 0n XRWSDrP models mwards (1993‘0fl). remove the nght-hand side panel (see Chapter at. 7 Trace the wiring train the turn signal and disconnect the wiring connectors (sea illustraliun or 10.23 or 10.4]. Carefully draw the wiring through to the stern, taking care net to snag it, a Unscrew the nut securing the stern. and where titted remove lhe washer (see illustrations). Remove the turn slgrlai. again taking care as you draw the wiring thruugh, Installation 9 Installation is the reverse 0' removal. Check the operation 0! the turn Signals. 13.8c Reartum Signal nut (arrowed) — xnwso 14: Brake light switches ~ § check and replacement ‘\ Check 1 Before checking the switches, and if not already done, check the brake light clrcuit (see Section 6. Steps 8 and 9). 2 The lrorlt brake Ilght Switch is mounted on the underside Ol the brake master cylinder. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the switch (see illustration). Using a continuity tester. connect the probes to the terminal: at the swltch. With the brake lever at rest. there should be rm continuity. With lhe brake lever applied. there should be continuity. ii the switch does not behave as described. replace it with a new one. lie, , lint 14.2 Frnnl brake switch wiring cunnemols (snowed) 143 Rear brake light switch (arrowad) 3 The rear brake light swuch is mounted all the inside of the frame, above the brake pedal and just ahead oi the master cylinder (see illustration). Fteniove the seat and ii necessary the rlghtshand side panel to access the wiring connecter (see Chapters}. Trace the wiring from the switch and disconnect it at the connector. Using: continuity tester. connect the probes to the terminals on the switch side of the wiring connection with the brake pedal at rest. there should be no continuity. With iris brake pedal applied. there should as continuity. ii the swuch does not behave as described. replace It with a new will. although Check first that it Is correctly ediusted (see Step in). 4 It the switches are good. check for voltage at the black wire terminal on the connector with the ignition switch ON ~ there should b9 battery voltage. It there's no voltage present. check the wiring between the switch and tile Ignition Switch via the lusebox (see the Wiring Diagrams at the and of this Chapter" voltage Is present. check the green/yellow wire tor continuity to the brake ilght bulb wiring connector. reterring to the relevant Wiring Diagram. Repair or renew the wiring as necessary Replacement Front brake lever switch 5 The Switch is mounted on the undersideli the brake master cylinder. Disconnect lite Wiring Connectors train the switch (.lu Illustration 14.2). 5 Remove the single screw securing the swnch to the master Cylinder and remove the switch, noting how it lrts. 7 Installation Is the reverse ol removal. Til! switch isn't adruslabie. Hear brake pedal switch 8 The rear brake light switch ls mounted all the inside of the trams. above the brake pedal and just ahead ol the master is:- Illustration 1&3). Remove the sea! and II necessary the rightrhand Side panel to access the Wiring connector (see Chapter in. Trace the imring irern the swrtch and disconnect it ill the connectur. 9 Detach the lower end at the switch spring from the brake pedal, then either release the switch with its adjustment nut irorn lira mounting by squeezing the tabs on in: underside or the nut or thread the switch itsell out at the nut. leaving the nut in lhl mounting. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the brake "QM is activated lust nature the rear brake pedal takes effect. ll aidiustmerit is necessary. hold the switch body and turn the adjustment nut as required ietiliar raising or lowering the switch) until the braka light is activated oorrectly. Electrical system 9-15 i 15.2 Unscrew the re Inlng ring (arr-awed) and detach the cable l», 15 Instrument cluster and speedameter cable ~ removal and installation K a Instrument cluster - XL models 1 Remove the lalnng lsee Chapter 8). ZUnscrew the knurled ring securing tne snnednmeter cable in the instrument cluster and detach the cable. noting now lt tits (see IllustrationL llTrace the wiring lmm the cluster and disconnect it at the connectors (see Illuslrationsl. I511: Discunnecl Ihe wiring connector: . . . 15.43 Unscrew the nuts (arrowed) . . . 15.33 Insvumem cluster W n5 connectors - XLGDDV 4 On XLEODV models. unscrew ms three nuts. noting the washers where lrltsc. and remove the instrument cluster. noting how it me (see illustrations). 5 On XLGSDV models. unscrew the four l‘iolisr notlng the collars. and remove the Instrument cluster. noting how it tits. 6 installaliuil ls the reverse ul renruval. Check the rubber grommets vcr damage. delormatan and deierloralion and replace them with new ones if necessary. Make sure that the wiring connectors are correctly routed and secured Instrument cluster - XRWSO-L and M models 7 To access the instrument cluster first remove the larnng (see Chapter 8). B The instrument cluster comes in le pieces. one iar the speedometer and warning llghl assembly, the other for me tachometer and temperature gauge. Each is secured by three nuts. If rerncwng the speedometer assembly, unscrew the knurled ring securing the speedometer cable in the instrument cluster and detach the Cable. noting how it llts. DlscanneEI the relevarll Wiring connectors. [hen unscrew the relevant rims, noting the collars. and draw the instrumenl cluster off lhe Sluds. Hollrlg now ll Ms. 9 Installation is the reverse of removal, Check Ihe rubber grcrnrnets lor damage, ” - fi‘l'llé‘s' 15.3» Instrument cluster w 9 connectors — XLBSOV 15.4?) . . . and remove the Instrument cluster defamation and deterioration and replace them with new cries If necessary. Make sure lhattne winng connectors are correctly routed and secured. Instrument cluster - XRWSO—N models onwards 10 To access the instrument cluster lrrsl remove the ialring (see Chapter 8|. To access the digital trip meter remove the windshield (see Chapter 3). 1‘! Trace the Wiring lrom the cluster and disconnect it at the connectors (see illustration). Unscrew the (our bolts. noting the collars, then displace the instrumeni 15.11b . . . (hen unscrew the bolts and remove the callsr‘s 9-1 6 Electrical system ng ring (snowed) cluster) nollng how il Ms, and unscrew the knurled ring securing the speedometer cable as R becomes accesslble (see illushsfidnsr 12 To remnve me digital lrip melsr, (race the wiring from (he clusler and disconnect ll al the connector (see illustration). Unscrew the lwa nuls. nollng Ihe washers. and remove the meler. noting how u Ms 1: Installation ls lhe reverse of removal, Check me rubber grommets for damage. deformation and deterioration and replace them With new ones ll necessary. Make sure "ml the wiring connedors are Correctly named and secured. 15‘13 Undo the screw (snowed) and detach the cable II, 15.18 Make sure the hole In [he guide locates over (he pin (arrow) Speedometer cable Removal 14 Remove the lairing (see Chapler EL 15 Unscrew the knurled rlng securlng the speedomelel cable m the mslrumem cluster and detach the cable‘ notan how il llls (see illumralion 152 0' 15.116) 16 Undo the screw sscuring lhe lawar and ml the speedometer cable in the drive housing On (he rlgM-harld side oi the front wheel and delacn the cable, notlng haw ii lucales (599 illustration]. l7 Release the cable from 115 lies and guldes . 15.17 Slacker! me screw (arrowed) and lree the cable [rum the guide 15.203 Locate the driva tab In the slot in me cable and u u . 15‘12 Discunnnct thu wiring connector (A), than unscrew the nuts (5) (see illustration). withdraw the cable mm the motorcycle. noting is vowing. lnshllmlon 15 Home the cable corraclly between "to instrument clusler and (he [rant wheel and secure ll in the guides and ms (w I "lustrationl. 19 Connecl me cable upper and m m- lns1rurnent cluster and tighten the knurled rim) securely [see illustration 15.2 or 15.11:). 20 Flt the lower end of lhe cable Inlo ll! drive housing or) the right-hand side of fill lmnl wheel, aligning the slol lrl the cable and wltl’l Die dnve tab, and secure lr with its SEW (see illustrations) 21 Check that lhe cable doesn‘t reslficl steering movsmem or interfere wrln any other camponel'llsl 16 Instruments— _ check and replacsmanl r XLGOOV models Speedometer check 1 Special Inslrumenls are required Io properly check me operallon or the meter Itself, ”mere 15.20!) . . . [hen secure the cable will: fill screw Electrical system 9-17 is a fault. first check that the speedumeter cable Is securely attached at each end. lnan remove it (see below) and check that the inner cable has not broken. and Il‘ it hasn‘t check that It rotates freely within the outer cable. It is also worth removtng Ihe lronl wheel (see Chapter 7) and checking the drive gear Olherwtse. take the speedometer to a Honda dealer ior assessment. Speedometer replacement 2 Remove the Instrument Cluster 1595 Sec- tion 15). 3 On H and .l (1987 and 1988) models. undo the cover screws on the back of the housing. noting any Wiring clamps secured by me screws. and lift on the 1mm cover. Note how the rubber seal and inner cover iii and remove them if requtred. Check the Condition of the seal and replace it with a new one ii it is flamaged. deformed or deterioraled. 4 On K to X (1989 to 1999) models. undo the cover screws on the back or the houslna and remove lhe outer cover. the lens and the inner cmer (see Illustratlons). 5 Undo the two screws securing the speedometer and remove it irom the base. rioting how it (its (see illustration). a instaiiatiori is the reverse oi removal. 16.4a Undo the screws (snowed) . . 16.4h Tachometer check 1 Special instruments are required to properly check the operation Of the meler itself. If Ihlre is a fault. first Check the luses (see Chapter 5). it they are good. remove the fairan (see Chapters), E On H [D R (1987 lo 1995) models with three wires let the tachometer. disconnect the cluster wiring connectors. then check for battery voltage balween the black (+) wire terminal on the loam side al "76 connector arid a good earth (ground) With the ignition Swltch ON, ii there is no Voltage. Check the wiring and connectors tor faults. relerring to the relevant Wiring Diagram at the end or the Chapter. If there is vulmge. Check fut continuity to earth In the green wire. and tor cantinuity to the ignitlon control unit in the black/yellow wire. again using the Winng Dragrams Otherwise. take the tachometer to a Honda dealer for assessment. 9 On T to X (1996 I0 1999) models. Honda speciiy their own lmrle diagnostic tester (model 525). or the peak voltage adapter (Pt. No. U7HGJ‘0020100) wiln an altermarkel digital multimeter having an impedance Oi 10 M—ohm/DCV minimum. for a complete test. If this equipment is available. connect the . . .then remove the outer cover. . i posulve (+i lead of the voltmeter and peak voltage adapter arrangement to the yellow/gieen Wire terrrlinai on the tachometei and the negative [,1 lead in a good earth (groundi. Turn the engine over on the starter motor and note the voltage ieariing obtained. it the reading is 10.5 v or above, the taciioinetci is iauily if the reading is below 10.5 v out above it v. the ignition control unit is probably laully. ii there is no voltage. detach the wtres and check for continuity to the ignition controi unit in the veliow/green wire. If there is no continuity check the Wiring and connectors for iauiis. reieriing to the relevant Wiring Diagram at the end of the Chapter, ii there is continuity. the ignition control unit is probably iaulty. ii there is the correct voltage. check tor continuity to earth in the green wire. again using the Wiring Diagrams. Dthervvise, take the tachometer to a Honda dealer for assessment. Tachometer leplauement 10 Remove the Section is) 11 On H and J (1937 and 1988) models. undo the cover screws on the back at the housing. rioting any Wiring ciainps secured by the screws. and tilt off the front cover. Note how irisliument cluster isee 16.41: . . . the lens.. . 16.4d . . . and the inner cnver 15.5 Speedometer screws (snowed) 9-18 Electrical system 16.13 Tachometer wiring screws IA ~ note centre wire not titted on all models),taohomsttlr mounting screws (B) the rubber seal and inner cover fit and remove them it required. Check the condition 0' the seal and replace it with a new one lt It Is damaged, deformed or deteriorated. 12 On K to X 11959 to 1999) mndels, undo the cover screws on the back of the housing and remove the outer cloverr the lens and the inner cover (see illustrations tsrfla, b, c and d]. 13 Undo the screws securing the tachometer erlng, noting which wire fits where (though the colour codes of the Wires should be marked next to the mammals], and detach the wires (see Illustration). Undo the screws securing the tachometer and remove it from the base. noting how it lits. 14 Installation is the reverse of removal. Coolant temperature gauge check 15 See Chapters. Coolant temperature gauge replacement 16 Ficmovs the instrument cluster [see Section is), 11 On H and J (1937 and 1988) models. undo the cover screws on the back or the housing, noting any wiring clamps secured by the screws. and lift off the front cover. Note how the rubber seal and lnrier cover in and remove them it required. Check the condition at the seal and replace it with a new one it it is 1 p «a a l. _ / damaged. oelormed or deteriorated. is On K to x (1989 to 1995) models, unoo the cover screws on the back or the housing and remove the outer cover. the lens and the inner cover (sea illustrations 15.4a, b, c and d). 19 Undo the screws securing the temperature gauge and its wiring. noting which wire tits where (though the colour caries oi the wires should be marked next to the terminals]. and detach the wires (see illustratinn). Remove the gauge from the base, noting how it tits. 20 installation is the reverse of removal XL650V models Pawer check 21 First check the luses (see Chapter 5), it they are good, remove the fairing (see Chapter 8) and disconnect the Instrument cluster wiring connectors (see illustration 15;»). Check tor battery voltage between the brown (+) and green/black i~l wire termlnals with the ignition switch ON. ii there Is no Vultflge, check the wiring and connectors for faults, referring to the relevant Wiring Diagram at the end of the Chapter. N there iS voltage, Check to! continuity in all the wires between the Wiring Connectors and the cluster itsell, again using the erl'ng Diagrams. 16.24 Front cover screw: iarrowaa) 16.25 Speedometer screws til-lowed] 16.19 Temperature gauge wiring and mounting scrsws (arrawed) Speedometer check 22 Special instruments are required It: properly check the operation of the meter ltselt. If there Is a fault. first check that the speedometer cable IS securely attached at each end. than remove it (see below) and check that the inner Cable has not broken. and it it hasn‘t check that it ratates freely within the uuter cable. It is also worth removing the iront wheel (see Chapter 7) and checking the drive gear. Otherwise, take ills speedometer to a Honda dealer (or assessment. Speedometer replacement 2: Remove the instrument Section 15). 24 Undo the cover screws 0" the lront Ol the housing and lift oft the lens and front cover (see illustration). 25 Llndu the two screws securing the speedometer and remove it tram the base, rioting now it fits (see illustration], 26 installation is the reverse at removal. Tachometer check 21 Special instruments are required to properly check the operation oi the meter itseli. it there is a tault. check the power input as descrlbad above (Step TI). ll that is gaud, take the tachometer to a Honda dealer lot assessment. Tachometer replacement 28 Hemuve the instrument cluster (see Section 15). 29 Undo the cover screws on the front at the housing. and lift cit the lens and front cover (see illustration 16.24). 30 Undo the screws securing the tachometer wiring. rioting which wire iits wrists (though the colour codes 01 the wires should he marked next to the terminals), and detach the wires [see Illustration). Remove the tachometer tram the base. noting how it tits. 31 Installation is the reverse of removal. cluster {see Electrical system 9-19 16.20 Tachometer screws (arrewed) Cuolant temperature gauge check 92 See Chapters, Coolant temperature gauge replacement 3:! Remove the ‘lnslrument cluster (see Section 15). 34 Undo the cover screws on the front of the housing and lift all the lens and limit cover (ace Illustration 16.24). as Undo the screws securlrlg the tempera lure gauge and its wiring. natlng whlch wire fits where (though the calour codes at the wires 15.35 Temperature gauge screws (snowed) should be marked next to the terminals), and detach the wires [see Illustratlon). Remove the gauge truth the base, noting how it fits 36 Installation IS the reverse Dl removal. Fuel gauge check 37 See Chapter 4. Fuel gauge replacement 3B Rembve the instrument cluster (see Secllun 15). 39 Undo the cover screws on the tram at the housing, and Ill! uff [he lens and lrant cover (see illustration 1624). 15.44 lnsu'tlment assembly - L and M (1990 and 1991) models 1 Bezel 8 Mounting nut - 3 eff is Mounting nut , a of! 2 Front cover 9 Collar - a on 17 Collar , 3 011 s Speedometer lo Damping rubber - 3 of! 15 Damping nibbar » 3 off i Speedometer housing 11 Speedometer renaming 19 Tachometer retaining nuts 5 Screw - 5 0” screws - 2 of! 20 Temperature gauge 5 Speedometer and warning 12 Tachometer retaining nuts light sub-harness 13 Temperature gauge 21 Tachometer and 7 Sidestano warning light 14 Bezel temperature gauge suo- assembly 15 Tachometer housing harness 19.40 Fuel gauge screws (arrowed) 4o Undo the screws securing the luel gauge and its wlrlrlg. noting which wire lltS where [though the colour codes at the wlres should be marked next tn the terrnlnals), and detach the wlres (see illustration). Remove the gauge lrom the case. notan how It lits, 41 lnstailatlon IS the reverse 0' removal. XRWEO models Speedometer check 42 Spectal instruments are required to pmperly check the operation at the meter ltsali. I: there lS a Vault‘ first check that the speedometer cable Is seuuraly attached at each end, then remove lt (see oelaw) and check that the inner cable has not broken, and ll it hasn't check that ll rotates lreely within the outer cable. lt is also worth remuvll'lg the trout wheat (see Chapter 7) and checking the drlve gear. Otherwise. take the speedometer to a Honda dealer lDr assessment. Speedometer replacement 43 Remove the inetmmenl Cluelei (see Section 15) 44 On L and M (1990 and 1991) models undo the cover screws on the back of the "(meme and lift all the lront cover (see Illustration; Undo the two screws secuhng the speedometer and remove il lrom the base‘ noting how lt llts 45 On N models onward {1992-onl disconnect the hip ssnsor Wltlrlg connector ane remove the blankmg plug tor the wiring from the back at the base [see illustratlon) _ fits 15‘453 Disconnect the wiring connector 9-20 Electrical system 16,45b Cover screws ianowea) Undo the cover screws on the back at the nouslng. noting any wiring clamps secured by the screws. and lift ON the tram cover (see illustration). Undo the two screws securing the speedometer and remove It train the base. noting now It tits. and taking care not to snag the Wiring connector as you draw It through me iioie (see Illustration). 46 installation ls the reverse oi removal. Tachometer check 47 Special instruments are required to properly check the operation or the meter ltseli if there ls a fault. tlrst check the fuses [see Chapter 5). It they are good. remove the lairing (see Chapters), 48 On L to S (1987 I0 1995] modets Wltl'l three wlres to the tachometer. disconnect the cluster wiring connectors. then check lor battery voirage between the black (+) wire tarmlnal on the loom side at the connector and a goon earth (ground) with the ignition switch ON. If there is no voltage. check the wiring and connectors tor taults. referring to the relevant Wiring Diagram at the end or the Chapter. ii there is voltage. check tor continuity to earth in the green wire. and tar continuny lo the ignition control unit in the black/yellow wire, again using the Wiring Diagrams. Otherwise. take the tachometer to a Honda dealer for assessment. 16.52 Tachometer wiring screws (A — note centre wire not fitted on all models). tachometer mounting screws (a) 49 On T models onward (1995mm. Honda spaciry their own lmris diagnostic tester (model 625). or the peak voltage adapter (Pt. No. U7HGJ»0020100) with an aftermarket digital multimeter havlng an impedance ol 10 M- ohrn/DCV minimum. tor a complete test. If this equlpment IS avaiiaola. connect the positive l+) lead oi the Voltrnater ano psak vcitage adapter arrangement to the yellow/green wire lannlnal on the tachometer and the negative (-1 lead to a good eanh (grounoi. ruin the engine over on the starter motor and note the voltage reading obtained. If the reading is 10.5 V or above. the tachometer is laulty. It the reading is below ‘05 V but above 0 V. the ignition control unit is probably faulty. It there is no voltage, detach the wires and check For continuity to the ignition control unit in the yellow/green wire. it more is no continulty check the wiring and connectors tor faults. referring to the relevant Wiring Diagram at the end at the Chapter. It there is continuity. the ignition control unit is probably faulty. If there is the coriccl voltage, check tar continuity to earth In the green wire. again using the Wiring Diagrams. Drherwtse. take the tachometer to a Honda dealer tor assessment. Tachometer replacement 50 Remove the instrument cluster (sac aceticntsl. 16.51 Temperamro gauge screws (arroweai 51 On L and M (1990 and i991l models. disconnect the tachometer wlrlng at the bLtllfll connectors (see Illustration 15.44). Undo tt‘l two nuts securing the tachometer, noting the wiring clamp. and draw it out at its bracket. noting how tl fits, 52 On N models onward (1992Aon). undo the cover screws on the back at the housing. noting any Wiring clamps secured by the screws. and lift oft the front cover (Sal illustration 16.4513). Undo the screws securing the tachometer wiring. rioting whlcti wire tits where (though IhB colour codes Dl lite wires should be marked next to the ternilrials), and detach the wiraa (sac illustration) Undo the screws Securing the tachometer and remove it from the base. noltrlg how II tits. 53 Installation is the reverse or removal. Coolant temperature gauge check 54 See Chapter at Coolant temperature gauge replacement 55 Remove the instrument cluster (so: Section 15) 56 On L and M (1990 and 1991) models. undo the screws securing the temperatuls gauge wiring, noting which wire tits where [though the colour codes of the wires should be marked next to the terminals]. and detach the Wires [see illustration 16.44). Undo tha two nuts securing the gauge and draw it out at its bracket. notan how it tits 57 On N models onward (1992-on), undo the cover screws on the back at the housing. noting any wiring clamps secured lay the screws. and lift on the iront cover (m Illustration 15.45b). Undo the screws securing the temperature gauge and its wln'ng. nutlng which wire tits where (though the colour codes or the wires should ha marked next [0 the terminals). and detach the Wires (see illustration]. Remove the gauge irorn the base. noting how it fits. 58 Installation IS the reverse Of removal. Electrical system 9-21 Digital trip meter check 89 First check the iusebox fuses (see Seer lion 5). On N (1992) models. it they are good. remove the windshield (see Chapter is). and mock the trip meter 5 A ruse located in its own holder just in front Elf the meter. at) It the fuses are good. check the power Input In the meter as ioilows: disconnect the trip meter wiring connector (see illustration 15.12]. Check ior battery voltage between the led/green (4-) wire terminal on the loom Slde OI ihe connector and a good earth (ground) with the lgnitlun Switch OFF. If there is no Voltage. irst check whether you have power to any other components (Le lights). and It not check the battery, its connections. the main [use and the starter relay connections. ii there is power to What circuits. check the red/green wiring and CnanBCturs for faults, [starring in the relevant Wiring Diagram at the end or the Chapter. it literals voltage. check for continuity to earth in the green wire. 61 ii oil is good so for. check tor cattery voltage between the black (r) wire terminal on me loorn side or the connector and a good earth (ground) with the ignltion swdclr ON. ii there is no voltage, check the Wiring and connectors ior faults. reiarnng to the relevant Wiring Diagram at the end or the Chapter. ll there Is voltage. the trip meter )3 probably iaulty. but it is worth disconnecting then reconnecting the battery positive it) lead. which resets the trip meter. to see if this kicks it back into action. It not, replace the meter with a new one. 52 To check the power input to the trip sensor in the speedometer (the sensor sends the information to the meter, so N the meter is on but does not count properly, it could be the sensor that is raulty). displace the instrument cluster from its bracket (see Section 15), but leave the wiring connectors connected. Disconnect the trip sensor wiring connector on ihe back or the cluster and check [or battery voltage between the black (+) wrre terrninel an the learn side of the connector and a good earth (ground) with the ignition switch 0N. Ii there is no voltage. check the wiring and connectors for faults. referring to the relevant Winng Diagram at the and at the Chapter. so it there IS voltage. check the sensor output to the trip meter as follows: first support the bike uslng an auxiliary stand so that the lronl wheel iB raised oft the ground. Disconnect the lrip meter wiring connector. and connect a voltmeter between the white/pipe l+l and green/black (—) wire terminals on the Ionm side of the connector. With the lgnillon 0N. slowly turn the light wheel through one full turn while observing the voltmeter. On N (1992) models the meter reading should swing slowly between 0 and 5 V a total at eight times. On all other models ihe meter reading should swing slowly between G and 0.6 V a total of twelve times. N there is no reading or the reading ls incorrect, check the wiring and connectors between the 1125 Carefully pull the bulbholder cut at the instrument cluster . . . meter and the sensor. If that is good. replace the speedometer With a new one — the sensor is faulty. but is not available separaiely from the meter. ii the reading is good. the (rip meter is probably iaulty. but It is worth disconnecting then reconnecting the battery positive l+i lead. which resets the trip meter, to see if this kicks it back into action. It not. replace ihe meter with a new one, Digital trip meter replacement 64 Remove the meter (see Section 15) and replace the whole thing with a new one 7 individual components are not available. 17. [moment and . ' warning light bulbs - . § replacement \ 1 Remove the talririg (see Chapter 8). Many oi the bulbs are accessible with the instrument cluster in place. It access is restrictoa. displace the cluster lrorn the bracket (see Section is). 2 Careiuliy pull the buihholder out 0' the instrumeni cluster. then pull the bulb our oi the buibholder [see illustrations). It the socket contacts are dirty or corroded, scrape them clean and spray with electrical contact cleaner belore a new bulb ls installed. Make sure the new bulb is oi the correct wattage (see SPEClfiCBIIOHS). Careiuiiy iii the new bulb into the holder. then fit the holder Into the housing. 3 Install the instrument cluster and/or lalring as required (see Chapter 8). 16.5 Pull back the rubber then remove the terminal screw and detach the wiring a.“ ‘ 17.2b t t t then pull the bulb out outta holder 18 Oil pressure switch — ‘ check. removal and Installatio ”1W Check 1 the oil pressure warning light should come on when the ignition (main) switch IS tumad ON and extinguish a iew seconds after the engine is started it the oil pressure warning light comes on whilst the engine is running. stop the engine immediately and carry out an oil level check. and If the level is Correct. an Oil pressure check [see Chapter 1). 2 it the oil pressure warning light does not come on when the ignition ls turned on. choclr the bulb (see Section 17) and (use (see Section 5). 3 The all pressure switch is screwed lntu the crankcase on the |efl»hand side. Remove the belly pan (see Chapter 3) and the trpnt sprocket cover (see Chapter 6) ior access. Pull the rubber cover off the switch and remove the screw securing the Wiring connector (see illustration). With the ignition switched ON. earth (ground) the wire on the crankcase and check that the warning light comes on. if the light comes on. the switch Is detective and must he replaced wrth a new one. 4 lithe light still does not come on. check for voltage at the wire terminal. ll lhere is no voltage present. check the wire between the switch. the instrument cluster and iusebcx lot continuity (see the Wiring diagram at the end or this Chapter). 5 it me warning light comes on whilst the engine is running. yet the oil pressure is satisfactory. remove the wire from the oil pressure switch With the wire detached and the ignition switched ON the light should be out. If It is illuminated. the wire between the switch and instrument cluster must be earthed (grounded) at some point. lithe wiring is gland, the switch must be assumed laulty and replaced. Hemoval s The oil pressure switch IS screwed into the crankcase on the left-hand side. Remove the belly pan (see Chapter 6) and the tram sprocket cover (see Chapter 6) tor access. 9-22 Electrical system 18.8 Unscrew and remove the mild: (arrowed) 7 Pull the rubber cover off the szlCI'I. then remove the screw securing the wiring connector (see Illustration 1&3). B Unscrew the oil pressure swllch and Wilh- draw it rrom lhe crankcase [see Illustration). Installation 9 Apply a suitable sealant to the upper portion of the switch threads near the switch body. leaving the bottom 3 lo 4 mrri of thread clean. lnslail the swltch in the crankcase and tighten it to the lorque setting specmed at lhe beglnrlll’ll of the Chapter (559 Illustration 13.6). Attach the wiring connector and secure it With the screw, then lit lhe rubber cover (see Illustration 16.3). 10 Run lhe engine and check that the swilch operates correctly whhom leakage. 11 Install llle 1mm sprocket cover and belly pan the clamp halts (arrnwed) . . . 1L9 ignition (mainyswltch - I K , '/ check, removal and Installation ¥ § Warning: Ta prayer-rt the risk M A short circuits, disconnect me battery negative (—) lead heron making any ignition {main} switch checks. Check 1 Cri XL medals and XRWSD-L to N (1990 to 1992) models. remove the iairing (see chap- ter 3). On XRWSD-P models onward (1993- on). remove the air llirer housing (see Chap» ter 4) Trace the wiring from the ignition swuch and disconnect it at the connector. 2 Using an ohmmeler or a continuity tester. check the continuity of the connector leimlnal palrs (see the Wiring Diagrams at the end ol this Chapter). Conlinuily should exisl oeiween the terminals connected by a solid line on the diagram when (he switch is in the Indicated poslllon. 3 if the swrtch rails any ol the tests. replace it with a new one. Removal Note: Some switches may be secured by shearrriead balls , mesa Dolls can only be used once. Obtain new bolts before darling. 4 On XL medals and XRV7507L IO N (1990 to lesa) models, remove the hiring (see Chap- ter 8). On XHV75CIVF models onward (1993- on). remove lhe air filter housing (see Chap— ter 4). Trace the wiring from ihe ignition switch 193a . . . and im ofl the top yoke w: 19.9 ignition switch boils (snowed) and disconnect it at lhe connector, Work blank along the harness, iroeing it lrom any clips and ties. noting lls correct routing. 5 0n XLSSUV rrmdels fined Wilh the HISS irnmobiilser system. undo the screws securing the receiver around the ignitlon switch and remove it. noting how it ms. 6 on models with shear-head hulls‘ lha heads ol the bulls must be drilled round using a suitable punch or drift, or drilled clr grouna off. before the switch can be removed. and so the top yoke must be removed as described below. On models wilh standard boils. you should be able to get at them with the switch lri srlu. in whlch case unscrew the bulls and remove the swltch. if no! you wlli have to remove the top yoke as described below. 7 Displace lhe handlebars irom the top yoke (see Chapter 6). There is no need to remove assemblies lrorrl the handlebars. s Slacken (he lork clamp bolts in the top yaks (see illustration). Unscrew the sleering stem nut and remove the washer (see illustration]. Ll" lhe (0p yoke up off [he steering stern am position Ir clear. usmg a rag to protect the tank or other components if it is only being dlsplaced (see illustration). 9 Unscrew the hairs (see Step 5 ii required] and wlrhdraw the switch from the top yoke (see lllusttsrion). in il required. undo the screws securing ills contacl plate on he bottom ol the switch and separale it from the barrel. 11 Replace whichever part or the swllch is faulty. Ur the whole switch ll necessary. If required assemble lhe barrel and contaci plate and secure them with the screws. Installation 12 Instailalion is the reverse of removal. ll you are using shear—head bolts. lighten them until the heads shear 0". Otherwise lighten the bolls securely. Make sure the wiring connectors are securely connected and correctly routed. lighten the steering slam nut, fork clamp bolts and handlebar balls in lhe torque settings specified at the beginning orchapters, 20 Handlebar switches - . Q check es ‘ 3‘s 1 Generally speaking. the swrtohos are reliable and trouble-free. Most troubles, when \hey do occur. are caused by dirty or corroded contacts. but wear and breakage of internal parts Is a possibility that should run be ovallooked. ll breakage dues occur. 1h! entire swnch and related Wiring harness will have to be replaced wlth a new one. I: individual parts are not available. 2 The switches can be checked 1m conilnully using an ohmmeler or a continuity tosl light Always discannacl ihe battery negative H cable. which wlil Drevenl [he unsslbillly 01 8 short Circuit, belare making the checks. Electrical system 9-23 3 0n XL models and XFiV750rL to N (1990 lo l952) models, remove the fairing (see Char» lerB). On XRV7507P models onward (1998» an). remove the air iiiter housing (see Chap— ter 4). Trace the wiring from the relevant switch and disconnect it at the connector, ‘ Check far continuin between the terminals Mthe switch connector with the switch in the various positions (4.5. switch off — no wnllnuily. swnch on — continuity) — see the wiring diagrams at the and ot this Chapter. Continuity should exist between the terminals connected by a solid line on the diagram when the swrtch is In the Indicated position. 5 ll the cuntinuity check indicates a pmhlarn exists. refer to Section 21. displace the Switch housing and spray the switch contacts with electrical Contact cleaner (there Is no need to remove the switch completely). it they are accessible, the contacts can be scraped clean With a kniie or polished with Crocus cloth. ii switch components are damaged or broken. l1 will be obvious when the switch is disassembled. 21 Handlebar switches — removal and installation ”(2%" Removal 1 Irina switch is to be removed from the bike. lather than just displaced from the handlebar. on XL models and XHVYSD-L to N (1990 to i392) models. remove the ialring isee Chap- tar all On XRV750rP models onward (1993- on]. remove the air liltsr housing (see Chap la! 4). Trace the wiring from the relevant switch and disconnect it at the cunnsctors Work back along the harness. freeing it tram any clips and lies. noting its correct routing. 2 Disconnect the two wires from the brake light switch (ii removing the righl~hand switch] or the clutch switch (it removing the left—hand switch) (sue illustration 14.2 or 24.2). 3 Undo the handlebar switch screws and tree the switch train the handlebar by separating the halves (see illustration). Installation 4 Installation Is the reverse oi removal. Make sure the locating pin In the switch housing Inmates in the hole in the handlebar. 2 Neutral switch - check removal and installation ”If? Check i Before checking the electrical circuit. check the bulb (see Section 17) and ruse (see Section 5). 2 The switch is located in the lei‘t»hand side at the iransmlssion casing below the tram sprocket cover, You should be able in access it without removing anything. but it required remove the belly pan (see Chapter 3). and for best access the front sprocket cover (see Chapter 6]. Detach the wiring connector from the swrtch (see Illustration). Make sure the transmission is in neutral. 3 With the connector disconnected and the Ignition switch ON. the neutral light should be out. It not. the wire between the connector and instrument cluster must be earthed (grounded) at some point. 4 if you removed the sprocket cover. temporarily slide the gearchange lever back onto the shaft. Check for Continuity between the switch terminal and the crankcase. With the transmission in neutral. there should be continuity. With the transmission in gear. there should be rid continuity. If the tests prove otherwise. than the switch is iaulty. 5 if the continuity tests prove the switch is good. check lor voltage at the wire terminal with the ignition swttoh 0N. it there's no voltage present. check the Wire between the switch. the Instrument cluster and iusebox (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapteri. Removal 6 The switch ls located in the leftrhand side cit the transmission casing beldw the front sprocket cover. You should be able to access it without removing anything. but Ii required remove the belly pan (see Chapter 3), and in! best access the front sprocket cover (see Chapter 6). 7 Detach the wiring connector frDm the switch (see illustration 22.2). B Unscrew the switch and withdraw it irnrn the crankcase (see illustration). Discard the sealing washer as a new one should be used. Installation 9 Install the switch using a new washer and tighten ii to the torque setting specified at the beginning or the Chapter, 10 Connect the wiring connector and check the operation oi the neutral light (see illustration 22.2]. 11 install the sprocket cover (see Chapter 6) and belly pan (see Chapter 8) It required 222 Disconnect the wiring connector from the switch 21.3 Handlebar switch screws (armwad) — Iefl- hand switch shown 23 Sidestand switch < check and replacement is x 3t 1 The sidestand SWitCh is mounted either on the items next to the sldesland. or on the back at the sidestand. depending on whether it is a plunger type or a rotary type. 2 XLBUOV—K to P [1939 to 1993) models and XRWSDrL to N [1990 to 1992) are filled With a plunger type switch. while all other models have a rotary type switch. XLEDDV and XHVTBU models have L1 warning light in the instrument cluster to show when the sidestand is down. 3 The switch is part oi the saiety circuit which prevents or stops the engine running it the transmission is in gear whilst the sidesml’ld is down. and prevents the engine from starting it the transmission is in gear unless the srdestand is up. and unless lire clutch is pulled in. Check 4 Beiore checking the electrical circuit. check the iuse (see Section 5), and on XL and XRV models the warning bulb lsee Section ii). 5 Trace the wiring back (mm the switch and disconnect at the wiring connector ~ remove the seat and/or left-hand side panel to access It (see Chapter E). Check [he operation 0' the switch using an ohmmeter or continuity test light as icllows. according to model. 5 Oh XLGUDV-K to P (1939 tn i993) models and XF‘lV750-L to N (1590 to i992) models. connect the meter between the light 22,8 Neutral switch (arrowed) 9-24 Electrical system 2313 Slueslano switch mounting bolt [arrowedl green/yellow and green wire terminals on the switch Side of the connector — with the Sidestand up thele should be continuity (zero resistance) between the terminals. and With the stand down there should be no continuity tinilntte resistance). Now connect the meter between the pink and green vnra terminals on the switch side of the connector 7 With the Sidesland up there should be no continuity [Infinite resistance) between the terminals. and with the stand down there should be continuity (zero resistance). 7 0n XLEOOV-R tn X (1994 to 1999) models and XRV7SD-P mndels onward [19937nn). connect the meter between the green/white and green wire terminals on the switch side at the connector - with the eldestano up there should be continuity (zero resistance) between the terminals. and With the stand down there should be no continuity (iniinite resistance). Now connect the meter between the yellow/black and green wire terminals on the switch side of the connector 7 With the sidestand up there should be no continuity (inhnite resistance) between the terminals, and with the stand down there should he continuity (zero resistance). 5 On XLGSOV models connect the meter between the green/white arid qreen Wire terminals on the switch side at the connector - with the sidestana up there should be continuity (zero resistance) between the terminals. and with the stand down there should he no continuity (ll'illnlte resistance). 9 it the switch does not psrionn as expected. it ls iauliy and must be replaced with a new one. 24.2 clutch switch wiring connectors (snowed) 1|) it the switch is good, check the wiring and connectors between the various components In the starter eatery circuit using a continuity tester (see the Wiring diagrams at the and Di this book). Also check for voltage at the green/white wire terminal on the loom side at the connector with the ignition ON 7 there should he battery voltage. Repair or renew the wiring as required Replacement 11 The sidestand switch is mounted either on the lrame next to the sidestand. or on the back oi the sidestand, depending on whether it is a plunger type swnch or a rotary type. Trace the wiring back from the swnch and disconnect all the Wiring connector — remove the scat and/or left-hand side panel to access it (see Chapter B) Work back along the switch wiring, iresirig it lrom any clips and hes. notan its correct muting. 12 On XLGDOVrK to P (tees to 1993) models and XRV750vL IO N (1990 to 1992) models, unscrew the swttch cover bolts and remove the cover. than unscrew the remaining switch bolt and remove the swttch. noting how it fits. Fit the new switch onto the bracket. making sure the plunger locates correctly against the sloestand. Secure the switch and its covar with the bells arid lighten them securely. 13 On XLBUOV—Ft to X [1994 to 1999) models. XLGSOV models and XRV7507P models onwards (1993—on). unscrew the switch bolt and remove the switch tram the stand. noting now It ilts (see Illustration). Fit the new switch onto the sides‘iand making sure the pin locates in the hole in the sldesland. arid the lug on the stand bracket locates into the cutout in the switch body. Secure the switch with its bait and tighten it to securely. 14 Make sure the wiring ls correctly routed up to the wnneclor and retained by any clips and ties, 15 Reconnect the wiring connector and check the operation at the switch. 18 Install the seat and/or leflanand side panel as required (see Chapter 5). 24 clutch switch - § check and replacement V, K Check 1 The clutch swhch Is mounted in the Clutch lever bracket. The switch is part at the starter saieiy interlock system (see section 1). The switch isn't aolustable. 2 To check the switch, disconnect the wiring connectors from it (see Illustration). Connect the probes of an ohmme‘ter or a continuity iester to the two switch terminals. With the clutch lever pulled in. there should he continuity (zero resistance). with the clutch lever out. there should be no continuity (Infinite resistanceli 3 If the Switch is good. check the other components in the starter circuit as describtd in the relevant sections of this Chapter. it al components are good. check the wiring between the various mmponenie (see the Wiring diagrams at the end of this book). Replacement 4 The clutch switch I5 mounted on the Olulfll lever bracket. 5 Disconnect the wiring connectors from Iii! switch (see illustration 24.2). Fiernova llll single screw securing the switch to hit bracket and remove the switch, rioting howlt lits (5N illustration). 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. lnsifli the switch with the small Catch at the bottom and press it in until the catch is lalt to locate. 25 Diodeis) — check and replacement 1 1 The dioda(s) is/are part at the starlet solely interlock system (see Section 1). A diode is: small Block that allows current flow in one direction only. and plugs into a :DhnEClUl either in the luset‘mx or in the wiring loam. depending on the modei application, Reierin lite relevant Wlil'ng Diagrams at the and chin Chapter tor details. 2 There is usually a diode In the clutch swiloti circuit, housed in the tusebox. one for the sidestand Switch circuit that plugs into it! loom (and can usually he idenltlleo by the lacl that it has black insulating tape wrapped round it. and Is usually located under the ml or behind one oi the Side panels) [an illustrations opposite), and one lot the neutral switch circuit that is integral with the ignition control unit Twin terminal died: blocks contain one diode, and triple tenniml diode blocks contain two diodes Using the Wiring Diagrams. identity which is/ora the input termlncits) and which is the nutpul terminal — the Inpuits) have the line which leads to the flat stde til the triangle on thl symbol. and ihe output comes hum ins Iiill across the point of the triangle. 3 To test a twin terminal diode. connect Ute positive (+) probe at an chmmeier of continuity tester to the input terminal on the 24.5 Clutch switch screw (arrowod) Electrical system 9-25 25.23 Diode (wowed)- xmoov mode and the negative i—l probe to the output terminal, There should be continutly. Now reverse the probes. There should be no continuity. II it doesn‘t oehave as stated. mnlace the diode with a new one. 4 To test a triple terminal diooo. connect the positive (+l probe oi an ohmrneter or continuity tester to one at the input terminals in the diode and the negative (a) probe to the nulput terminal. There should he continuity. Now reverse the probes. There should be no cantinuity. Repeat the tests between the other input terminal and the output terminals The same results should be achieved. Ii it doesn't nahave as stated. replace the diode with a new one. 5 On XRWSD-L to s (1990 to1995) medals. it is possible to test the neutral switch diode in tile Ignition control unit (ICU). Remove the seat lsee Chapter at and disconnect the white zrpin oonnoctorirorn the chl. Connect the positive 26.13 Horn - XLEDOV 25.2) Diode (arrowed) - XLssov i+l probe of an ohmmetar or oontinuity tester to one oi the light green/red wire terminals on the too and the negative (-l probe to the other light green/red wire terminals Now reverse the probes, There should ho Continuity in one direction and no cuntinulty In the other. a It a diode is iaiiity, pull it out oi its socket and rsplaoe it with a new one. It the neutral switch diode on XRW50~L to S (‘990 W1995) models is iaulty. replace the ICU with a new one. 7 It the dlodes are good. check the other components in the starlet circuit as described in the relevant sections M this Chapter. It all components are good, check the wirlng between the various components (see the wiring diagrams at the end or this book). 26 Hern— V QQ check. and replacement § ‘\ Check 1 The horn is mounted below the Ian-hand radiator on XL models and the right-hand radiator on XHV models (see illustrations). oh XL models. remove the stone guard (see Chapter 8). and lei best access the lensharin iairlng side panel [XLGDCM or the tzlrlng (XLGSOV) [see Chapter 8). On XRV models you should be able to get at the horn tram the trout quite easily. but remove the leftrhand side panel it required (see Chapter 5). 2 Unplug the wiring connectors item the horn [see Illustration). Using two lumper wires, apply battery voltage directly to the terminals 25.2c Dlode (avowed) - XRWSO on the horn. it the hem sounds. check the switch (see Section 21), Also check lar voltage at the light green wire connector wlth the Ignition ON and the ham button pressed. if voltage is present. check the green wire lur continuity to earth. If no voltage was present. Check the light green wlre lor continuity between the horn and the switch. and In the black/brown or white/green iacoording to model) wire from the swltch to the fusebox. and then to the lgnltion switch (see the wiring diagrams at the and or this Chapter). With the ignition switch ON‘ there should be voltage at the black/brown or white/green Wire to the horn button in the left-hand switch gear. 3 ll the horn doesn’t sound, replace it with a new one. Replacement 4 The horn Is mounted below the left-hand radiator on XL models and the right-hand radiator on XFlV models (see illustration $.13, b or at, 0n XL models. remove the stone guard, and let best access the lemhand ialring side panel (XLSOCIV) or the iairlng (XLssuvl (see Chapter 8). On )OZW models you should be able to get at the horn from the iront quite easily. but remove this leflrhand side panel it required (see Chapter 3). 5 Unplug the wiring connectors irom the ham (see illustration 25.2). Unscrew the nut securing the horn and remove It worn the bike. 5 Install the horn and tighten the nut securely. Connect the wiring to the horn, Check that it works. then install the stone guard. fairing side panel or iairing as required according to model and your procedure (see Chapler oi. 26.1h Hot-n — XL550V 26.10 Horn — XRWSD 28.2 Disconnect the wiring connectors 9-26 Electrical system 'J-L 's’xnau‘ 27.3 Starter relay battery and starter mater leads (A) and wiring connector terminals (El 27 Starter relay — § check and replacement is check 1 It the starter circuit is faulty. lirst check the luse (see Section 5). 2 The starter relay is behind the right-hand side panel on XL models and XRV750rL to N (1990 to 1992) models. and behind the left hand side panel on all other xnv models (see illustration 5.23, 3.7 or 5.2blr Remove the panel icir access (see Chapter 8). 3 UR the rubber terminal cover and unscrew the bolt securing the starter motor lead (see illustration). position the lead away lrem the relay terminal. With the ignition switch ON. the engine kill switch in lhe HUN pnsltan. and the transmission in neutral, press the starter switch. The relay should be heard to Click. 4 It the relay doesn't click. switch oft the ignition and remove the relay as described below. test it as ioltows. 5 Set a multimeter to the ohms X ‘l scale and connect it across the relay‘s staner motor and battery lead terminals (see illusfiation 273). There should be no coniiriuliy. Using a tuliy- charged 12 volt battery and two Insulated jumper wires, connect the positive in terminal or the battery to the yellow/red wire terminal oi the relay. and the negative (—) termlnal to the green/red wire terminal of the relay. At this point the relay should be heard to click and the multimeter read 0 ohms (continuity). If this is the case the relay is proved good. It the relay does not click when battery voltage is applied and Indicates no contlnulty llniinlte resistance] across its terminals. It is lauity and must be replaced with a new one. a it the relay is good. check for continuity in the main lead irom the battery to the relay. Also check that the terminals and connectors at each end at the lead are tight and 28.3 Pull hack the tannins! cover then unscrew the nut (A) and detach the lead. starter mounting bolts (3) corrosion-tree. Next check ior battery voltage at the yellow/red wire when the starter button is pressed. it there is no voltage. check the wiring between the relay wiring connector and the starter button. ll voltage is present. check that there is continuity to earth in the green/red wire with the transmission in neutral. the clutch lever pulled in and the stdestand up (note that there will be a very slight resistance due to tha diode). If there Is no continuity. check the other components in the starter circuit as described in the relevant sections at this Chapter. It all components are gaDd. check the wiring between the various components (see the wiring diagrams at the and 0' this book). Replacement 1 The starter relay is behind the right—hand aide panel on XL models and XRVVSU-L to N (1990 to 1992) models. and behind the leflr hand aide panel on all other XFtV models (see Illustration 5.2a. 3.7 or 5.2!”, Remove the panel tor access {see Chapter 5). snisconnact the battery terminals. remembering to olsconneot the negallva H terminal first. 9 Disconnect the relay wiring connector. then lii‘tthe insulating cover and unscrew the bolls , as»: . m ”L 28.4 Slide the starter motor out 01 the crankcase securing the starter motor and battery lean: to the relay and detach the leads (:6. illustration 27.3). Remove the relay with ll: rubber sleeve lrom its mounting lug on in: frame. lithe relay is being replaced with a hell one. remove the main fuse irorn the relay. and remove the relay from its sleeve. 10 Installation is the reverse ol removal. Make sure the terminal bolts are securely tightened. Do not forget to tit the main lust into the relay. ii removed. Connect the negative (—) lead last when reconnecting ill. i 28 Smrtei' motor — removal and installation , Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative [-1 lead (see Section 3). The starter motor is mounied an the crankcase behind the cylinders on the left-hand side. 2 Remove the rear downpipe isee Chapter 4). I! Feel back the rubber terminal cover an tm starter motor (sea illustration). Unscrew iiiil nut securing the starter lead to the motor and detach the lead. I Uhsotew lhe two bolls securing the slaner motor to the crankcase. noting the earth load seamed by one of the bolls [see lllustratlun 28.3). Slide the starter motor out and remme it (see illustration) 5 Remove the O-ring on the and oi the starter motor and dlscard it as a new one must be used. Installation 6 Fit a new Orring onto the end of the slam motor. making sure it Is seated in its groove (see illustration). Apply a smear ol engine oi to the O—ring to aid installation. cylinder exhaust Electrical system 9-27 28.6 Fit 3 new O-ring and lubricate it 7 Manoeuvre the motor Into position and slide lllnto the crankcase (see illustration 234i. Ensure that the starter motor teeth mesh conechy With those or the starter drive gear. Install the mounting bolts. not iorgetting to tenure the earth lead, and tighten them securely (see illustration 23.3), 3 Connect the starter lead to the motor and secure it with the nut (see illustratlon 283). fit the mbbar cover over the terminal. 9 install the rear cylinder exhaust downpipe (see Chapter 4), to Connect the battery negative (7) lead. a sterttormotoré‘, I _ disassembly.inspeatt n, and reassembly ,, g Disassembry 1 Remove the Starter motor (see Section 28). 2 Note the alignment marks between the mam housing and the tront and rear covers. or make your own If they aren‘t clear. 3 Unscrew the two long bolts. on XLSflD-H and J (1937 and 1988) models noting the . t . then remove the front cover and :oallng ring (mowed) 29.3d . . . end the shims (srmwedl 2933 Unscrew and remove the two bolts (mowed) t . . washers. then remove the tram cover from the motor along with its sealing ring (see Illustrations). Discard the sealing ring as a new one must be used. Remove the tabbed washer trorn the cover and. except on XLSOD» H and J (1937 and 1938) models, slide the insulating washer and shim(e) trorn the (rent end of the armature noting the number of shims and their correct. fitted order [see illustrations). 4 Remove the rear cover from the motor along with its sealing ring (see illustration). Discard the sealing ring as a new one must be used, Remove the shlm(s) from the rear end or the armature noting how many and their Correct fitted positions [536 llustration]. 5 Withdraw the armature tram the front of the main housing (see Illustration). 6 At this stage check let continuity between the terminal bolt and the brush with insulation. There should be continuity (zero reelstancei. Check for continuity between the terminal bolt and the housing. There should he no continuity (Infinite resistance), Also check for continuity between the brush With unlnsulated wire and the brushplate. There should be continulty (zero reelstancei. it there is no conttnuity when there should be or vice verse. .'. a: . 29,13 Remove the rear cover and Its sealing ring (snowed) . . . 29m. . . . and remove the shims (snowed) 9-28 Electrical system 29.5 Withdraw the armature 2.9.": Remove the hrushplate assembly g: . 29.76 . . a the termlnal boll . . . idenl‘liy the lsulty component and replace it with a new one, 7 Noting the correct titled location of each component. unscrew the nut from the terminal Doll and remove ltle plaln wasller‘ the one large and two small Insulating washers and the rubber D-ring [see lllusttan'on). Sllde the insulated brushes out at their holders (see illustration 29463} Make an alignment mark between the hrushplale and the houslng to aid lnstallatlon — it ls easy to Install the plate in the wrong position without knowing it. Remove the brushplala assembly noting how it locales and how the insulated brush wires are roulad (see illustration). Wlthdraw lhe terminal bolt lmm the main housing, noting now it locates. then remove the brush piece, the insulator and the hulder (see illustmtinns) t . the brush piece . 8 Slide the brushplflte brushes out at thelr holders. Inspection 9 The pans oi the starter motor \l'lflt are most likely to require attention are the brushes Measure the length or each brush and compare the results to the Specifications at the beglnnlng ol the Chapter (see illustration). II the brushes are worn beyond the service llmll, replace the brushplate assembly and brush piece with new ones. If the brushes are nct worn excesslvely, ncr cracked. chipped. or ctherwisc damaged. they may be re-used. 10 Inspect the commutator bars on the armature lor scoring, scratches and discoloratlon. The cammuta‘or can be cleaned and pallshed Wlth Crocus clotht but 29.79 . . .tne insulator . c. do not use sandpaper or emery paper, Alter cleaning. wipe away any residue with a cloth soaked In electrical system cleaner or denatured alcohalc 11 Uslng an ahmmeter or a mntlnulty leslel. check lur Contll’lully between the cammutalar bars (see lllnstrationl Cuntlnuity should exist between each bar and all a! the others. Also. check lo( contlnulty between the commutator bars and the armature shah. There should be no continuity (Infinite resistance) between the commutator and the shaft, It the checks lndlcate Otherwise, the armature ls defectlver 12 Check me starter pinion gear lor warn. cracked. Chlpped and broken teeth It the 998! is damaged or worn. replace the starlar motort ta inspect the and covers forslgns cl cracks or wear. Check the nssdle bearing in the Ironl 29.71 . . . and tha holdar 29.9 Maasum the length a' each brush t I -t 29.11 continuity should Exist between the commutator hare Electrical system 9-29 Ella Chuck the seal (A) and needle hearing (B) in the from cover , , ‘ lat- and place the spring end onto its Dinar end cover and the bush In the rear COVE! far wear and damage (see illustration). Inspecl the magnets In the main housing and the housing llsall for cracks. fl Inspect the lnsulatlng washers. O-ring. seallng rings and hunt cover all seal for slgns Mdamage deformation and deterioration and mew iI necessary. 2115!: . . . I I Beassembly ls Slide the brushplate brushes back Into maiden in their housmge and locate the brush spllng ends onto the outer ends or the Wines so that the brushes are held retracted and Will not interfere when the armature Is slld trough (see illustration). ll Fit the holder. insulator and the brush piece into the main housing (see Illustrations mi. e. and at, then insert the tarrnlnsl bolt through them and the housing (sea Illustration 29.72). Sllda the rubber O-Iing arid small insulating washers anti: the terminal bait, iollowed by the large insulating washer and the plain washer [see Illustration 8.1a). Finns nut onto the terminal Doll and tighten it tomrely. Fit the brushplate onto the housing. making sure it is aligned as marked on removal and Its tab ls correctly located In the housing slut and that the insulated brush erES are routed through the EutDuls In the plate (sac Illustratlcn ZBJb). Sllde the Insulated brushes into thelr housings. lhen locate the spring ends onto me outer ends of [he brushes (see illustrations). 17 Insert the armature Into the Iront of the main housing, taking care as the magnets within the nouslng will want to forcefully pull it 29.15 Slide each hmsh into its housing arm place the spring arm onto its outer end 29.17 Locate the spring ends onto the brushes in [see Illustratlon 29.5). With the armature installed. place each brush spring end against the and 0' Its brush st) that the brush is pressed against the commutator bars (son Illustration). 18 Fit the shims unto the leer fll‘ the armature snarl (see Illustration 234m. Apply a smear ol grease to the end of the shall. Flt the sealing ring onto the rear oi the housing (ministration). Fit the rear cover, alignan the marks made on removal [see Illustration 8.4a). 19 Apply a smear of grease to the front cover all seal lip. Flt the toothed washer Into the cover so that Its teeth are correctly located with the cover ribs (see Illustration 293C). 20 Except on XLSOO-H and J (1987 and V988) models. slide lhe snlmls) onto the front and oi the armature shall then lit the Insulating washer (see Illustfiticn 3.1M). Flt the sealing ring onto the iron! or the houslng (see illustration). Slide the iront cover into 29.18 Flt a new sBallng ring unto the rear of the housing position, aligning the marks made on removal (see illustration also). 21 Check the marks made on removal are correctly allgned then fit the long bolts. on XLSOO-H and J (1987 and 1983) models not torgeiting the washers, and tighten tnarn securely (m illustration). 2 Install the starter motor (see Section 23), ~80 charging eyelem testing - ’ general Infomlmn and Premiums 1 II the performance ol the charging system is suspect, the system as a whole should be checked first. followed by testing or the individual components Nate: Before beginning the checks. make sure the battery '5 fully charged and that all system connections are clean and tight 29.20 Fit a new sealing ring onto the trout or the housing 29.21 H! the long bolts and tlghten them sacumly 9~30 Electrical system BATTERY N EGATIVE TERMINAL 31.3 Checking the charging system leakage rate — connect the meter as shown 2 checking the output at the charging system and the penormance or the various components within the charging system requires the use oi a multimeter (with voltage. current and resistance checking faculties). a When making the checks. iolldvv the procedures careiully to prevent incorrect connections or short circuits. as irreparable damage to electrical system components may resuii if Shun circuits occur 4 If a multimeter is not available. the )ob oi checking the charging system should be leit to a Honda dealer. 31 charging lem~ leakage an output test ”12%“ i ii the charging system of the machine is thought to be iaulty. pertcrm the iollowlng checks. Leakage test Caution: Always connect an ammeler In series, never In parallel with the battery, otherwise It will be damaged. Do not turn the ignition ON or operate the starter motor when the ammeter is connected - a Sudden surge in current will blow the Meier‘s (use. 2 Turn the ignition switch OFF and 32.1a Alternator wiring connector (arrewedi — XLGODV disconnect the lead irom the battery negative H terminal (see Section 3). 3 Set the multimeter to the Amps iunction and connect its negative isl Probe to the battery negative (—) terminal. and positive (+) probe to the disconnected negative (—) lead [see illustration) Always set the meter to a high amps range initially and then bring it down to the mA (mllil Amps) range: ii there is a high current flow in the Circuit ii may blow the meters fuse. 4 lithe current leakage Indicated exceeds the amount specitied at the beginning or the Chapter. there is probably a short circuit ln the Wiring. ties the wiring diagrams at the end oi this book and systematically disconnect Individual elsctrlcal components until the source is identified. fl 5 Disconnect the meter and connect the negative (-) lead to the battery, tightening it securely. Output test 6 Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 7 To check the voltage output allow the engine to idle and connect a multimeter set to the 0-20 volts DC scale (voltmeter) across the terminals or the battery (positive it) lead to battery posrtivs (4») terminal. negative i—l lead to battery negative (a) terminal). Slowly increase the engine speed tn 5000 rpm and note the reading obtained. The regulated voltage should be as specified at the beginning or the Chapter. it the voltage is outside these limits, check the alternator and the regulator (588 Sections 82 and 33), Manalamsystemliesbeen, flflad.’ rim that its current , draw Mculd be taken lnt'u , account, when measuring _' current leakage. ' clues to a Iaulry regulator, are ' constantly blowing bulbs, with brightness varying conslderabiy with englne speed, and battery overheating; 321D Alternator wiring connector » XL65W a’zAiternalor- ' 1 § check; removal and installation ‘ Q Check 1 Trace the wiring back irom the alternator cover an the left—hand side of the engine and disconnect it the wiring connector containing the three yellow wires — on XLGUOV models. remove the seat. on XL650V and XRV750'P models onwards (Wes-on) remove the lat- hahd side panel. and on XRV‘rScI-L to N (man to 1992) models remove the right-hand side panel to access the connector (see illustrations). Check the connectnr terminals ior corrosion and security, 2 Using a multimeter set to the chins x l lohmmeter} scale measure the resistance between each of the yellow wires on the alternator side sit the Connector. taking a (Bill at three readings. then check for Continuity between each terminal and ground (earth). ii the stator coil windings are in good canditlon the three readings should be within the lungs shown in the Specifications at the start ath‘iis Chapter. and there should be no continuity (Infinite resistancel Between any oi the terminals and ground (earth). it not. the alternamr Stain! call assembly is at fault and Should be replaced with a new one. No": Before condemning the stator coils, check the raulr is not due to damaged wiring between the connector and the coils. Removal Note: The altsmator rotor bolt has left-hand threads. This means it has to be slackened and tightened in [he OPPOSITE direction to normal balls. Turn the bolt clockwise to unscrew it, andanrlmlocltwise ta tlghlen ll. 3 On XLSOOV and XHV750 models remove the tart-hand iairlng side panel. and on XLGSUV models remove the (airing 7 although they do not actually restrict access on any model. ii they're not there they can‘t be damaged should a tool slip when loosening and tightening the alternator rotor bolt On all models remove the belly pen (see Chapter it) end the tram sprocket cover (see Chapter 6). 4 Either drain the engine all (see Chapter 1). 0f . r \ . .fl‘" 32.1c Alternator wiring connector [A), pulse generator wiring connector (is) - Electrical system 9°31 place a container under the engine to catch the till that will come out when the allemeior cover is removed. If your model has a centrestand place the bike on I! so that it Is level — this minim'ses cll loss. It your model does not have a contrastand and you do not have an auxiliary stand it is best to drain the all, 5 Trace the wlririg back from the alternator Dave! on the leftehand side of the engine and disconnect it the wiring connector containing "19 three yellow wires 7 on XLSUDV models. retrieve the seat. on XL650V and XRWSfl-P models onward (lesseoni remove the left- hand side paner and an XRWSD—L to N (1990 In 1992) models remove the right-hand side panel to access the connector (see illustration 3235‘ h or c)l Release the wiring from any clips or ties On XRWSD models also disconnect the pulse generator cull wiring ounneotor— on L to N (1990 to i992) models you wlll have to remove Ute iuel tank to access it (see Chapter 4). on all other models It is on the right oi the ninernaior connector (see illustration 32.1c). 8 Working in a miss-crass pattern. evenly slacken \l‘ie alternator cover bolts (see Illustration). Lift the cover away from the engine. noting that it will be restrained by the loroe oi the rotor magnets, and be prepared to catch any residual oil. Remove the gasket and dxscard it Remove the dowels from either the cover or the cmnkcase il it is loose. 7 Wlthdraw the starter drive gear shaft irom the crankcase and remove the gear. noting which way round it fits (see Illustration). Withdraw the idle/reduction gear shaft from the crankcase and remove the gear. noting which way round it fits. a To remove the rotor bolt It ls necessary m slap the rotor irom turning. The best way is to use a commercially available rotor strap (m illushstiun). If one is not available. try placing the transmission in gear and having an assistant apply the rear brake hard, Unscrew the bolt. remembering that it has left»hand threads (see Note above). and noting that it is very right. Note the washer fitted with the bott. 321i Alternator cover bolts (snowed) 9 To remove the rotor from the aha“ it is necessary to use a rotor puller, Thread the ruler puller Into the centre oi me rotor and turn it until the rotor is displaced from the shaft, holding the rotor to prevent the engine turning. Remove the Wuadrufl key tram its slot in the crankcase if it is loose. and if required slide the needle bearing off the Shaft [see illustratlans), Separate the starter clutch irom the rotor if required (see Chapter 2). 10 To remove the stator irorri the cover. unscrew the bolts securing the stator, and the bolt securing the wiring clamp, then remove the assembly. noting how the rubber wiring grommet tits (see Illustration). 32. 1 Withdraw the shafts (arrowed) and remove the gears Installation 11 Fit the stator into the cover. aligning the rubber wiring grommet with the groove (see illustration 32.10). Apply a suitable none permanent thread locking compound to the stator bolt threads. Install the bolts and tighten them to the torque setting specified at the beginning oi the Chapter. Apply a suitable sealant to the wiring grommeL then press It into the cut-out in the mover. Secure the wiring with its clamp and tighten the bolt securely. 12 ll separated. M the starter clutch onm the back 01 the rotor (see Chapter 2L Apply some oil to the needle bearing and slide it onto the end of lite crankshaft [see Illustration 32.9blr 32.3 Using a row strap b hold the Mar while unscrewing (ha bolt 32.9!) . . . and slido the hearing of! the shaft 32.10 Unscrewthe stator him: (A) and the wiring clamp bolt (E) and free the grommet (c) 9-32 Electrical system . raci’ 3213 Fil filo Woodmff key imo its slut 13 Clean the tapered end (If the crankshafl and the corresponding mating surface on the inside of the rotor with a Suitable Solvent. Fll. the Wcudrult key into Its slot in the crankshaft ll removed (see Illustration). Make sure that no metal dblects have attached themselves to the magnet on the lnslde of the Voter. Sllde the rotor unto the shaft, making sure the groove On the inside ol the Mar ls aligned with and Ms over the WDOdflJ" key. Make sure the Woodrull key clues not became dislodged when installing the rotor. 14 Apply some clean all tn the rotor ball threads and the underside ol the head. install Ihe rolur bolt with R5 washer. making sure the slightly raised centre olma washer ls tacmg the bolt. and tighten It to the torque setting specified sit the beginning of the Chapter. using lhe method employed on removal to prevent the rotor item turning. and not lorgetting it has leftmand "Heads (see Illustrations). 15 Lubrlcate the idle/reduction gear shell with clean engine oil, Position the gear in the crankcase. making sure the smaller pinion faces inwards and its teeth mesh correctly with the teeth of the starter driven gear. then slide the shaft into the gear (see illustration), Lubricate the starter drive gear shaft wlth clean engine oil. Position the gear In the crankcase. making sure the OUT mark laces outwards and Its teeth mesh correctly with the teeth of the idle/reduction gear and the starter motor shaft, then slide the shaft Into the gear [see illustration). 1G Fit the dowels into the crankcase it removed. install the alternator cover using a new gasket. making sure they lucate onto the dowels and that the bores In the cover locate cure the idle/reduction and starter drive gear shafts [see illustrations). Tlgl’iten the cover bolts evenly in a crisscross sequence. 17 Reconnect the wiring at the cohnectorls) 3214b . . . and tighten into the spedflad torque and secure it wltl'i any cllps or ties previously released (see Illustration 32.11. h or c). 18 Flll the engine wlth all, or top it up to the correct level, according to you removal method [see Chapter 1]. Install the from sprocket cover. belly pan and any other components also removed. 83 Regula’tlnr/roctifler— check ridreplaoemerit - Check 1 0n XLGOOV models and XRV750-L to N (1990 to 1992) models remove the right-hand side panel (sea illustration). an new and XRV750-P models onwards (1993Aonl remove the left-hand side panel (530 lllultrllionll. Eiher trace the wiring lrom the regulator] 3116a Locate the new gasket unto lhn dowels (arrowed) . . . 3116b . . . then install the cover . t . 3216c . . . making lure the gear shuns locate in their bores (armws) , 49;: ' t, -. 33.13 Regulator/rectifier (moms) , xusoov Electrical system 9-33 rectifier and dlscannscl It at ths connectors, n1 discnnnect the connector from the lagulator/ractitiar. according in model. Check the connectors for lease, damaged or mrmuea terminals 2 Set the multimeter In the 0720 do volts getting. Connect the meter posttlve (+) probe in the red/white Wire terminal [use either terminal where them ars two, and check both) an the luum side of the CDnnectDr and the negative (—i probe to a sultahls gmund (earth) and check for voltage. Full battery voltage should be present 8| all times (LB. with the Ignition OFF) On XLBOOV-H to K (1987 33.11; Regulator/rectifier (snowed) — «11939) models and XRW50»L and M (1990 XLSSOV XHV'ISO-P models onward (1mm and 7991) models. perform a simllar check in: battery Voltage at the black erE terminal. this lime with the 19"“an ON. (l Switch the multimeter to the resistance (ohms) scale. Check tor continuity between the green wire terminal on the loam Side of the i ’ u jam connector and ground (Bantu- There shauld ‘ EI-clt Had/whit: Velluw Vulluw V-iluw cm i be continuity. ,meE A On XRV75U madels. set the multimeter to i 7 ~ 7 i 7 4 the *0th (ahmmeter) scale and measure Blank \\ am more 15in mm lsloaum timeout mmsum the resistance between each of the terminals 7 7 ” as indicated by the table tor your model [sue “WW“ °° i ”" °“ °° °° illustrations). The readings should be Withln , , 7 i’ , i the range shown, Honda provide no such Vlllaw 00 l osmium 0° 0° w figures for X.L models, but you could use the 7 , 7 , xnv flguras as a guide for checking the mm on ‘ mm,“ W ix: l>o internal Circullry. Usually a fault ls Identifiable by the absence or presence at Infinite or zen: 7 7 ‘ ' 7 7 ' resistance when there should In fact be a “W °° ””‘MW‘ l m l °° °° measurable amount, l 5 It the above checks do not provide the Green ilozakrl inseam l maintain: l uslemku ‘ osmium axpactad results check the Wiring and mnriectnrs between the battery, mguiaturlrectlfler and alternate! la! shorts. 33.48 Regulator/rectifier I351 detalls- breaks, and Iuose or corroded terminals (see XHWW‘LM N (199° to 1992'] "INNS the wiring diagram at the and at this book). W WWW m ”ohms 5 ll the wiring checks out, the regulator/rectifier unit is probably faulty. Take it to a Honda dealer lot confirmation ol Its condition betore replacing it With a new one, Alternatively obtain a known good one to use as a substitute. then check whellter the fault has been corrected. ‘ ' PM“ ‘ RAG/white Yellow Vellnw Vellum Green Replacement i _ Fm” ‘ 1 0n xtaoov models and xnwso-L to N , 7 (1990 to 1992) models remove the nghtrhand fiedlwnna ' m co 0° 0° side panel (sea illustration sans). On l XLssov and xnwsosp models unwatds HESS-on) remove the leftmand side panel ""W l “WWW“ °° °° °° [an illustrstlnns ml: or c). Either [race the wiring from the regulator/rectifier and in...ow i 5mm ,5 mm an no no disconnect it at the connectors, or disconnect the Cannecmr from the regulator/rectifier. l according to model. Fnee ths wiring rmm any ‘ clips or has and teed it back to the regulator/rectifier, Green 700 st to is m son mo to nu son u to In to 5m 11 to in m | a Unscrew the two nuts or halts securing the - ragulator/rectlfler, noting any earth wires, and nn‘XLSOD mode-Is the rear brake master 33.43 Regulator/rectifiertest detalls— cylinder reservoir, secnrad by them. and xnwso—P models onward "SSS-on) remove the regulator/rectifier. . 9 lnstallatian ls the reverse M removalt 9" llifmlfy 5? Ohms Kn K—Dnms Vstlow 50mm to its: °° 9° 9-34 Wiring diagrams 5s. 3:. 5: i=5 1.5.5: “as 4 Wiring diagrams 9-35 .T> uzm 1.53.; £2»;m2.i .. is: fiafifi; u E...- CLF. WW 3 .25. 55.. .55 is: 535.25 Eigcifi as. .227... 9-36 Wiring diagrams XLWOVJJ. V-N and V—P [all market except Germany) ering diagrams 9-37 mm m 5&1? \ ._L “J: . ~ g} ama- . ., 1:7er "ra‘a'v I'M M 4 $31? a FEE} L- M?" _ ' — - ,ngmm , , mm, M XLEUUVvM, V .>.> F.>§..x .335 3 lie ‘ 55:53.. . .953 ,. » ifigzg § a W .2 :flesa .E u SE: 2; s i as... . <2 } a u n < , Wiring diagrams 9-41 mm": mm. 3H l_l m Wm nwyv .w mum my ,,. Wmvgnal «m, on..." mm m... mlumdm-mlun 5 . «if; 3% rs, ' E SE fia ;EH VIII mm mm, T61 Eh)..- m m WW I xLasnv mm. L 4 sank mun: 81m nmm ”.m- Nam m Wald: pm we. Mn Yumflvrm mu». m 9-42 Wiring diagrams «mm :1 mm mu»... ,,,, W ”’ w...» W "' 4---; . . . A ":1 ‘1 air A a r: o A m r... \ - - 5% ’1.“ am— ‘ v m n 10.4 mm ‘ " W cw "um um. w... ‘ / mm... .m. w...» m... .m. .w m M» xmnsnAL and M (all markals except Germany] Wiring diagrams 9-43 l ‘4“ mm... ”Wm mm XHW50»L and M [all models nxcepl Germany] Ma 2 5% é if i? 9-44 Wiring diagrams mm. mm. m Mummy-«y TIP-2W mm. MM XRV150-L and M (Grammy only) Wiring diagrams 9045 m M; r11; 3 w, mm, a J___. am am." My.“ my. w m xnwsm and M (Gummy only) 9'46 VWring diagrams sun-mum mm mum. ,, ”W ,4 ering diagrams 9-47 9-48 Wiring diagnams m. o. mm, . n my. :1 mm ”WW5, mmmwmm. J g??? @530: {92.4 3:22,” mm. ‘ - Embwfi m m." m m“ Ma! m .ma. mm XRWSD-P. R and 5 (an markets exoap! Germany) “Mm" Wiring diagrams 9049 # mm ”m. XRV‘ISD-P, R and 5 [all mlrkals ucept Germany) 5...». mm, W. 9-50 Wiring diagrams maul!!!»- ’ pun-m ‘ mum- n. ..... ‘u. Wm 1:33!“ 9”,...” mm mm mun- uw "m .M. .w, um ,_,, mm .m, 1‘ W: Mr: L M “4 “ mum Mwm Dorm-r Funny mm. mm“ mmmm w,m mm. md, «nun mm, m m xawso-p, n and 5 (Germany nnly) Wiring diagrams 9-51 mm": WW "m: XWWSDJ’. R and 5 (Gamal'ly anly] ii HIE i i 3 I 7;, E s § WWII-aw: Inna- 9-52 Wiring diagrams smmmn mm." mum WNW—"III pm. um M. «W ca: WWI»! w m - Mm? m, Mum mm.” m... mm [mm u... mm mm.“ XRV'ISOvY mwards n;- n— Wiring diagrams 9-53 waso-‘r onwards mu... man! my REFn14 Tools and Workshop Tips lhe loinl will be held evenly and will nor be dislerled, imporlarlr loinls. such as lhe cylinder head and big~erlt1 iasieners ahen have twee er threerstage rorque sellrngs Applying leverage 0 Use idols al lhe correct angle Posilion a socket wrench er spanner en the boll/nul sd lhai you pull ii towards you when loosening ll this can‘t be done, push lhe spanner wrihdui curling your fingers around ll (see illustration 4.6) - lhe spanner may slip er the lasiener [noseri sudderllv. resulting in ydur lingers being crushed against a component. 4.5 ll you can’t pull on lhe spanner la loosen a fastener, push wim your hand open - Addillonal leverage is gained by exiending lhe lengih oi lhe lever. The oesl way in do line is re use a breaker bar instead oi lhe regular lenglh tool. or re slip a length or tubing over lhe end ol lhe spanner pr sockel Wrench. 0 ll addlllonal leverage will noi work, lhe laslener head is eilher damaged or ilrmly corroded in place (see Faslenersl. L. Bearing removal and installation Drivers and sockets 0 Before removing a bearing. always inspect the casing to see which way ll musi be driven Dill - some Casings will have relalnlng plates or a cast slep. Also check far any ldenlliying markings on the bearing and ii installed to a certain depth measure this at this stage. Some roller bearings are sealed pn one side - take note of the original litied poslllorii o Bearings can be driven out el a casing using a bearing driver idol (Willi lhe correct size head] or a socket at lhe correct diameter. Select lhe driver head or sucker so that ii Contacts lhe outer lace of Illa bearing, nm the balls/rollers or inner race. Always supporr lhe casing around lhe nearing housing wrlh wcod blocks, otherwise there is a risk Oi fracture, lhe bearlng is driven out with a few blows on the driver or socket horn a heavy mallet. Unless access IS Severely resirlcled [as Willi wheel bearings). a pin-punch ‘is not recommended unless it is moved around lhe bearing lo keep ll square in he housing a The same equipment can be used in inslall hearings, Make sure lhe hearing housing is suppdned on wood blocks and line up the bearing in its housing. Ht lhe hearing as noled on removal - generally lhey are lnslalled with iheir marked side lacing oulwards. Tap the bearing squarely lnip its housing using a driver or sucker which hears only on lhe bearing's ouler race - caniacl wllh the hearing halls/rollers or inner race will deslrdy ll lsee llluslrallpns 5.1 and 5.2). 0 Check that lhe hearing inner race and balls/rollers rolale lreely. 5.1 Using a bearing driver against the bearing‘s duller race , I ~> 5.2 u g a large sucker against lhe hearing's amer race Pullers and slide—hammers 0 Where a bearing is pressed on a shafl a puller will he required in extracl ll (see illustration 5.3). Make sure that lhe puller clamp or legs in securely behind lhe bearing and are unlikely to slip our. ll pulling a bearing 5.3 This bearing puller clamps behind the bearing and pressure is applied (a the shafl and In draw the bearing 0" all a gear snarl for example. you may have In locale lhe puller behind a gear pinion rl lhere is no access to lhe race and draw lhe gear pinion on the shafl as well (see illusualien 5.4). Caution: Ensure that the puller‘scam Dali We secure” agalust magma! mash-frmwlllmtslbzwhenpuasum I: applied. Alsa ensure the! puller does. not damage "nah-fl amt 54 Where no access is available tn the rear 01 the hearing, is sometimes posslhletn draw a" the adjacent component o Operate lhe puller so llial lls centre bolt ckerls pressure en the shall end and draws the bearing off The shafl . When installlng lhe bearing on the shall, lap only on lhe bearing‘s Inner race - Contact with [he balls/rollers or outer race with destroy the hearing. Use a socket or lenglh al luhiiig as a drirt which fits over the shall and (530 illustratiun 5.5). 5.5 When insralling a hearing on a shaft use a piece of tubing which bears only on the bearing‘s inner race 0 Where a bearing locates in a blind hole ill a casing. ll cannol be driven or pulled out as described above. A slide-hammer with knife— edged bearing puller alrachmeni will be required. The puller attachmenl passes through lhe hearing and when righienad expands in ii llrrnly benlnd the bearing (see Illustration 5.6). By operarlng lhe slide hammer part or the tool the bearing is laned out or its housing [see illustrah'un 5.1L 0 H is possible, ii the bearlrlg is of reasunabla weighl. for ll id drop out or its housing lime casing is heated as described opposite. ll lhls Tools and Workshop Tips REF-15 5.7 , . . attach the slide hammer to the hearing puller method is attempted ilrst prepare a work surlace which will enable the casing to he tapped lace clown to help dislodge the oeanng . a wood suriace is ideal since it Will not damage the casinos gasket surtace. Wearing protective gloves. tap the heated casing several times against the wurk surface to dislodge the bearing under its own weight (see Illustration 5n) 511 ‘I’applng a casing lace down on wood blocks can often dislodge a bearing 0 Bearings can be Installed in blind holes using the driver or socket method descrlbed above, Drawboits 0 Where a beallllg u! bush is set In the eye of a component, such as a suspension llnkage arm or connecting rod smallrend. removal by oriit may damage the component, Furthermore a rubber bushing in a shack absorber eye cannot successfully he driven out ol position. if access is avaliabla to a engineering press, the [ask is Slraightlnlward. If not, a drawbuli can be labiicaied to exiraci N’le beailng or bush, 5.9 Drewbolt component parts assembled on a suspension arm Boll or length of threaded bar Nuls Washer (external diameter greater than tutiirig ihtemar diameter) Tubing (internal diamEtBI sufficient to accommodate bearing) Suspension arm vvitri bearing Tubing (extemal diameter slightly smaller than bearing) Washer {external diameter Slightly smell/er than beating) 5.10 Drawing the baarlng nut 07 the suspension arm a To extract the nearing/bush you will need a long bolt with nut (or piece oi threaded oar with two nuts). a piece cl tuning which has an internal diameter larger than “we bearing/bush. another piece pl tuoing which has an external diameter slightly smaller than the hearing/ bush, and a selection or washers isee illustratlcns 5.9 and 5.10). Note that the pieces or tuoing must be ot the same length. or longer. than the heanngibush. o The same kll iwllhout the pieces at tuningl can as used to draw the new hearing/hush back into place (see illustration 5.11). 5.11 Installing a new bearing (1) in the suspension arm Temperature change 0 if the bearing‘s outer race IS a tighl fit in the casing, the aluminium casing can be heated to release its grip on the bearing. Aluminium will expand at a greater rate than the steel nearing outer race. There are sevemi ways to do this. bul avDId any localised extreme heat (such as a plow torch] aluminium alloy has a low melting point. 0 Approved methods of heating a casing are using a domesllc oven (heated to IDO"C) or immersing the casing In coiling water (see illustration 5.12) Low temperature range localised heat sources such as a paint stripper heat gun or clothes iron can also be used (see Illustration 5.1:) Alternatively. soak a rag in boiling water. wring It out and wrap ii around the bearing housing Warning: All all these methods require care In use to prevent scalding and burns to the hands. Wear protective gloves when handling riot components «w .4 512 A casing can be immersed in a sink of boiling water to peen‘ng removal 5.13 Using a lcc to aid bearing removal on heat source a ll heating the whole casing note that plastic components. such as the neutral switch. may suitor e remove them petorehand. n Altar heating, remove the hearing as descrlped aoove Vou may rind that the expansion is sutlicient tor the hearing to tail out at the casing under its own weight or with a light tap on the driver or socket. o It necessary. the casmg can be heated to aid bearing installation and this is sometimes the recommended procedure if the motorcycle manutacturer has designed the housing and hearing ill with this intention REF-16 Tools and Workshop Tips 0 installation at bearings can be eased by placing them in a ireezar the night beiore installation. The steel bearing Will contract slightly. allowing easy insertion ln its housing. This is olten useful when installing Steering head Outer races in the flame. Bearing types and markings 0 Plain shell bearings, oali bearings needle roller bearings and tapered rullar cearlngs WIII all be round on motorcycles (see illustrations 5.14 and 515). The call and roller types are usually caged between an inner and outer race. but uncaged variatiaris may be tonne. 5.14 Shall bearings are either plain or grooved. They are usually identified by colour code larrowl 5.16 Typical hearing marking Bearing fault finding I li a hearing miter race has spun In its housing. the housing malarial will be damaged. m can use a bearing locking compound to band the outer race ln place li damage ls not too severe. 0 Shell b%n’ngs wI|| fall due to damage at their Working suriace. as a result Di lack of ltlbrlcatian. corrosion or abrasive particles In the all (see illustralion 517). Small particles at dirt In the Oil may embed In the bearing material whereas larger particles will scare the bearing and shaft yeurnal. ii a number at short ioulheys are made, lnsuiilcient heat will be generated to drive off condensation which has built up on the hennngs 5.15 Tapered roller bearing lAl. needle roller bearing (Bland hall Journal bearing (c) 0 Shell bearings [alien called inserts) are usually found at the crankshatl main and connecting rod big-end where they are good 31 coping with high loads. They are made of a phosphor-bronze material and are impregnated with sell-lubricating properties I Eall bearings and needle roller bearings consist of a steel Inner arid outer raoe with the balls or rollers between the faces They require constant tubricatldn by oil or grease and are good at Caplflg wltti axial loads. Taper roller bearings canSlst 0t reliefs set in a tapered cage set on the inner race: the outer race is separate They are good at coping with axial loads and prevent movement along the shaft » a typical application lS in the steering head. 0 Bearing manuiacturers produce hearings to lSO size standards arid stamp one face Oi the hearing to Indicate its internal and external diameter. load CEPBClly and type (see illusiratiun 5.15). 0 Metal bushes are usually of phosphor- bronze material. Rubber bushes are used in suspension mountlng ayes. Flare bushes have also been used in suspension pivots. IMPFIOPEH SEATiNG FmGlUE FAILURE causes on Ms on e (POL-sum SECllmS SCRKTCHED BY DIRT LACK OFOIL nlnr meander) mm OVERLAV wlva: our nae-wt: MATERIAI EXCESNE WEAR TAPERED JOURNAL m 5.17 Typical hearing failures I Ball and roller bearings will fall due to leak at lubrication w damage to me balls or rollers. Taperedsroller bearings can be damaged by overloading them. unless the bearing is sealed Uri both Sides, wash it in paraiiln (kerosene) to remove all old grease then allow it to dry. Make a Visual inspection looking to dented balls or rollers, damaged cages and worn or pitted races (see Illustration 5.1M O A ball bearing can be checked tor wear by listening to II when spun Apply a film or light oil to the bearing and hold it close tn the ear - hold the outer race wltll one hand and spin the lrlrler 5.1a Example oi ball journal hearing with damaged balls and cages 5.19 Hold cuter race and race when spun race with the other hand (see illustration 5.19), The bearing should be almost silent when spun: it it grates or rattles it is worn. Oil seal removal and installation o oil seals should be renewed every times component is dismantled, Thls is because the seal lips will uecome set to the seallng surlaoe and will not necessarily reseal. 0 Oil seals can be prlsed out oi pasllion using e large list-bladed screwdriver (sen illustration 6.1). In the case oi crankcase seals. check lirst that the seal ls not lippcd on the Insider prevehtlng its removal with tile crankcases ioined. 6.1 Prise out ail seals with a large llat~bladed screwdriver 0 New seals are usually installed with [hell marked lace (containing the seal reierenca code) outwards and the Spring side towards the fluid being retained in certain cases, such as a two-stroke engine crankshaft seal. a dullble Iipped seal may be used due to ”16'? being fluid or gas on each side ol the )Dlrlt. Tools and Workshop Tips REF-17 I Use a beanl’lg dilval’ or socket which bears only on the outer hard edge or lhe seal to install it in the casing - tapping on the inner edge Will damage the sealing llp. 01'! seal types and markings 0 Oil seals are usually ot the singlellppeo type Double—Ilpped seals are found where a liquid or gas IS on both Sides of thejnlrlt I Oil seals can harden and lose [hell sealing ability It the motorcycle has oeen in storage tor a long period 7 renewal is the only sotulion. 0 Oil seal manufacturers also contorm to the ISO markings tor seal size - Ihese are moulded into the outer lace oi the seal (see illustration 6.2). l t . 62 These all seal markings indicate Inside diameter. outside diameter and seal thickness Types of gasket and sealant I Gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between components and keep lubricants. liuids. vacuum or pressure conlained within the assembly. Aluminium gaskets are sometimes round at the cylinder loinls. but most gaskets are papersbased. It the mating surfaces of the components being Joined are undamaged the gasket can he Installed dry, although a dab oi sealant or grease will be useiul to hold lt in place during assembly. 0 RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanislngi Silicone rubber sealants cure when exposed to moisture In the atmosphere These sealants are good at illllng pits or Irregular gaskel laces. but will lend to be forced out of the loint under very high torque. They can be used lo replace a paper gasket, but ltrst make sure that the Wldth of the paper gasket is n01 essential to the shimming of internal components. RTV sealants should not be used on components containing petrol (gasoline). O Nnn~hardenlng. semi—hardening and hard setting liquid gasket compounds can be used with a gaskel or between a metal-to-metal lalnt. Select the sealant to Suit the applicauon‘. universal HOU'l’lEI'defllng sealant can be used on vtnuelly all loints: semlrhardenlng on iotnt laces which are rough or damaged: hard setting sealant on Joints which require a permanent bond and are sublected to high temperature and pressure. Note: Check first if the paper gasket has a bead oI sealant impregnated in its surface before applying additional sealant, c When choosing a sealant. make sure it is suitable lor the application. particularly it being applied in a high-temperature area or in the Vicinity 0f luel. Certain manufacturers produce sealants In either clear. silver or black colours to match the ilrllsh Oi the engine. This has a particular application on motorcycles where much or the engine is exposed. 0 Do not ovenapply sealant. That which is squeezed out on the outside oi the icint can be wiped on. whereas an excess cl sealant on the inside can break off and clog oilways. Breaking a sealed joint 0 Age. heat. pressure and the use of hard setting sealant can cause two components to stick together 50 tightly that they are dlfllcull to separate usmg linger pressure alone. Do not resort to using levers unless there is a pry point provided lor the purpose (see illustration 7.1) or else the gasket surraces will be damaged. 0 Use a soft-laced hammer (see Illus- tration 7.2) or a Wood block and conventional hammer to strike the component near the mating surface. Avoid hammering against cast extremities since they may break oil, ll this method lails. try using a wood wedge between the two components. Caution: if- the lain! will not «petals, damask mf'yml have moved all urn mars. 7.1 It a pry point is provided, apply gently pressure with a flat-bladed screwdriver 7.2 Yap around the joint with a soft-faced mallet it nmsaly - Gon‘t strike cooling fins Removal 0! old gasket and sealant I Paper gaskets will most likely come away Complele, leavrng only a tew traces stuck on ELL Most components have one or Ma hollow locating dowels between the Mo gasket laces. If a dawn! cannot in rumored, do not resort to gripping it with pliers - It will almost certainly in dismrted. Install a closrfmlng socks! or Philllps screwdriver Into the dowel and than grip the outer edge of the dowel Ia Ilse ll. the sealing laces oi the components. it is imperative that all traces are removed to ensure correct sealing or the new gasket. 0 Very oareiuliy scrape all traces of gasket away making sure that the sealing surlaces are not gauged or scored by the scraper (see illustrations 7.3, u and 7.5). Stubborn deposits can be removed by spraying with an aerosol gasket remover. Final preparation oi it 7;: Paper gaskets can be scraped all with a gasket scraper tool . . . 7.5 . . . or a household scraper REF-18 Tools and Workshop Tips 7.6 Fine abrasive paper is wrapped around a ilat tile to clean up the gasket lace 7.7 A kitchen scourer can be used on stubborn deposits ihe gasket suriace can be made with very line abrasive paper or a plastic kitchen scouier (see illustrations 7.6 and 1.1). I Old sealant can be scraped or peeled 0" components, depending on the type originally used. Note that gasket removal compounds are available to avoid scraping the components clean; make sure the gasket remover suits the type ol sealant used, Breaking and joining final drive chains 0 Drive chains for all but small bikes are continuous and do not have a clipstype connecting link. The Clialn must be broken using a chain breaker tool and the new chain securely riveted together using a new soit rivet-type link. Never use a clip»type connecting link instead cl 3 riveHype link. except in an emergency Various chain breaking and riveting tools are available, either as separate tools or combined as illustrated in the accompanying photographs » read the instructions Supplied With the tool carefully. A ...i.,s...s.....smw a! the motorcycle is very likely in result If the chain hreaks in use Warning: The need to rivet the new link pins correctly Carina! I Rotate the chain and look ier the sort link ihe soil link Dlns look like they have been 5.1 TightBl'l til. chain hreaker to push the pin out 0| the link . first}, withdraw the pin, remove the tool . l . 8.3 . s t and separate the chain link deeply senile—punched instead oi peened over like all the other pins (see Illustration 3.9) and its sldepiale may be a dlflereni colour Position the so" link midway beiweeri the sprockets and assemble the chain breaker tool over nne oi the soft link Dirls [see illustration 8.1)i Operate the tool to push the pin out through the chain (see illustration 8.2). On an Daring chain. remove the o-rinos (see illustration 3.3). Carry out the same procedure on the other soil link pill. cautlan: Gdrtaln Bolt link ylns (particularly an lliglerger chains) ill-y requirn their ends to he filed ur ground dwbefonthoyean bep‘nmdoutuslng the tool. 0 Check that you have the correct size and strength (standard or heavy duly) new soft link » do not reuse the old llnk. Look lor the size marking on the chain sidepiales (see illustration &10), D Position the chain and; so that may are engaged over the rear sprocket. On an oaring 8.4 Insert the new $0“ "nk4 with O—rings. through the chain ends . . , 8.5 . nsvail the O-rings over the pin ends 5.8 . . tollawed by the sideplate chain, install a new Orrirlg over each pin oilhe link and insert the link through the two chain ends (see illustration 3.4). install a new O-ririg over the end of each pin, loliowed by the sidepiate (with the chain manufacturer's marking lacing outwards) [see illustrations 5,5 and 6.6). On an unsealed ciiaiii. iiiseit us link through the two chain ends, then install the sideplate with the chain manufacturer's marking lacing outwards a Note that it may not be possible to insiaii the sldeplate using linger pressure aiene. ii using a joining tool. assemble it so ihal the mates oi the tool clamp the link and press the Sideplate over the pins (see illustration 3.7], Otherwise. use two small sockets placed over 8,7 Push the sideplam into position using a clamp Tools and Workshop Tips REF-19 6.11 Chain dimensions 3.3 Assemble the chein riveting tool over one pin at a time and tighten it tuliy > w 8.9 Pin and correctly riveted ( pin and unrlveted (3) the rivet ends and iwo DleCeS oi the wood between a Gsclamp. Operate the clamp to press the sidepiate over the pins, 0 Assemble the joining tccl over one pin (lollowlng the maker‘s instructions) and ilghierl lhe loo] down to spread the pin end securely (See illustrations 8,5 and 5.9) Do the same on the other pin is no danger or the sideplate coming loose. I! the pin ends are cracked the soft link must be renewed. Warning: Chuck that the pin ends am secure and ma! there Final drive chain sizing o Chains are sized USing a three digit number. lailnwed by a surnx to denote the chain type (see illustration 3.10). Chain type ls atther standard or heavy duty [thicker sldepiates). and also unsealed or Osrlng/X-ring type. c the tlrst digit or the number relates to the pllch oi the chain, is the distance tram the centre of one pin to the centre at the next pin (see illustration 3.11). Pitch ls expressed In elghths of an inch, as loilows: s k 5.") Typical chain site and type marking Slzns commencing with a 4 (eg 426) have a pitch or 1/2 lnch (12.7 mm) Sizes commencing with a 5 (eg 520) have a pliCh 015/8 lnoh (15.9 mm) Slzes commencing with a 5 (eg 630) have a pitch of 3/4 Inch (19.1 mm) O The second and (bird dlgits [If the sham lee reiate to the width or the rollers. again in lmperlal unlis‘ eg the 525 shown has 5/15 inch (7.94 mm) rollers [see illustration 5.11). Clamping to prevent flow 0 Small-bore flexible noses can be clamped to prevsnl iluid llow whilst a component is worked on. Whichever method is used. ensure {hat "I6 hose material is no! permanently distorted or damaged by the clamp. a) A brake hose clamp available from auto accessory shops (see illustration 9.1). b) A wingnllt type hase Clamp (see illustration 9.2). 9.1 Hoses can be clamped with an automotive brake hose clamp . . . . a wingnut type hose clamp . , . c) Two sockets placed each side 0/ the hose and held wlrh straight-[awed self-lacking grips (see illustration a3), d) molt card each side or the hose held between straighwawed selrrlocklng g/Ips (see illustration 9.4). 9.3 . . .two sockets and a pair or sail-locking grips . . . 9.4 . . . or mick card and self—locking grips Freeing and flftlng hoses 0 Always make sure the nose clamp ls moved well clear or the hose end. Grlp the hose WIih your hand and rmata it Whilsl pulllng it off the unlorl. ii the hose has hardened clue To age and will not move slit ll With a sharp knile and peel its ends ofl the union (see illustration 9.5). o Resisi the temptation to use grease or soap on the uniurls to aid installation; although it helps the hose Slip over the urllOn it will equally aid the escape at fluid tram the joint. it is preferable to soften the hose ends in hot water and wet the inside suriace oi the hose with water or a flllld which wlll evaporate. 95 Cutting a coolant hose free wiIh a sharp ltnile REF-26 Conversion Factors Length (distance) Inches (In) x 25.4 Feel (II) x 0305 Miles x 1.609 Volume (capacity) Cubic Inches (cu I'n: ln’l X 16.387 Imparlal pints (Imp pl) x 0.553 Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1,137 Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.20) US quarts [US qt) x 0.946 Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 4.546 Imperial gallons (Imu gal) x 1201 US gallons (us gal) x 3.785 Mass (weight) Ounces (02) x 23.35 Pounds (lb) x 0.454 Force Ouncesvforca (sz, oz) x 0.278 Pounds-forceubf; ID) x 4.448 Newtpns (N) x o.) PreSSure Founds~lurce per square Incn x 0.070 (psi; Ibl/irl‘; lp/In’) Pounds»force per square inch x 0.068 ([351; lbf/In“: Ib/irl’) PoundsAlorce per square Incn x 0.069 (psi; lbifin’: lts/irr') Poundsforoe per square inch x 6.895 , (psi; lbf/in’; Ib/ln‘) Kilopascals(kPa) x 0.01 Mllllbar (mbar) x 100 Milllhar(mhar) x Elm-15 Mllllbar (mbar) x 0.75 Mlllibarlmhal’) X 0.401 Mllllmetres pl mercury (rnrrngl x 0.535 Inches of waler finHZO) x 0.086 Torque (moment of force) Pounds-{ores lnches x 1.152 (lbl In; lb In) Poundsdorce Inches x 0.113 (lbl in; lb In) Pounds-lame Inches x 0.083 (lbf in: lb In) PoundsAlorce leel (lhf ll: lb fl) x 0.138 Pounds-force leer [lbf ft: lb 1:) x 1.356 Newton metres (Nm) x 0.102 Power Horsepower (hp) x 745.7 Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr: mph) x 1.609 Fuel consumption‘ Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 Temperature Degrees Fahrenhell : (”C x 1.8) + 32 II l1 II Mlllimeires (mm) x Metres (m) x Kllometlss (km) x cubic centimetres (cc: cm’) x Ulres (I) x Litres (I) x us quarts (us qt) x Litres (I) x thres (l) x US gallons (US gal) x _ Litres (I) x Grams (g) x Kilograms (kg) x _ Newmns (N) x Newton: (N) x KlIograms-force (kgl: kg) x K)Iograms-force per square x centlrrlelre (kgI/cm‘: kg/cm’) Atmospneres (atm) x Ears x Kllopascals (kPa) x Kilograms-lorce per square x cenlirnstre (kgl/cm); kg/cm) Pascals (Pa) x Ppunds-tnme per square Inch x (psl: Inf/in’; lblln’) Mllllmetres ofmerculy (mml—lg) x Inches ofwater [ll’ngO] x Inpnes 01 water llnHZO) x x _ Founds-lorce per square Inch (psi; lbl/ln’: Ib/Inz) Kilogram-lama centimetre x (kgl cm; kg cm) Newton metres (Nrn) x Poundsiorce feel (lbl ft: lb 1'1) x Kllogramslqrca metres x (W ml kg m) Newlan metres (Nrn) x Kllugl'ams40rce metres X (kgl‘ m: kg rn) Watts (W) x KIIumetres per naur (km/hr: kph) x Kilomeues per We (km/l) x 0.0394 3.231 0.621 ll II I] 0.061 1 .76 0.83 0.833 1 .057 0.22 0.833 0264 II II II ll ll II II II 0.035 2.205 3.6 0.225 9.31 14.223 14.696 : 14.5 : 0.145 = 98.1 : 0.01 68.947 1.333 2.491 1.868 : 27.65 0.568 = 3.35 : 12 : 7.233 = 0.738 9.804 0.0013 : 0.621 : 2.525 : Inches (in) Feet (fl) Miles Cubic Inches (cu In: lrl’l Imperial pmls (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quans (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) us gallons (Us gal) Ounces (pz) Pounds (lb) Ounceslorce (021; oz) PaundsJDrCe (lbf; lb) Newtuns (N) Pounds-lures per square Inch (psi; lbl/in‘: lb/In‘) Pounds-lame per square Incn (psi: lbl/I‘nzi Ib/In“) Pounqsrrorca per square Inch (psi: Ibf/ln’; lb/In") Poundsloroe per square Inch (psi: IM/irIF: lb/im) Kllupascals (kPa) Mllllbar (mbar) MIIIIpar (mpar) Milllnar (mbal’l MIIIIDar (mbar) millimetres of mercury (mmHgJ Inches pl water (lnHQO) PoundsJOch inches (Ibl in; lb in) Poundszoroe inches (Ibl in: lb In) Pounds-force Inches (lbf in: lb in) Foundsiorce lea! (Ibf 1‘1: lb ft) Pounds-force leer (Ibf l‘t; la n) Newmn melles (Nrn) Horsepower (hp) Mlles per hour (runes/hr. mph) Miles per gallon (mpg) Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; we) = (‘F - 32) x use - I! IS common practice to convert from Miles per gaIIan (mpg) to lilies/100 kilometres (Ilmakm), where mpg x I/ioo km : 282 Fault Finding REF-35 This Section provides an easy reference—guide to the more common iaulis that are likely to alilici your machine. Obwousiy, the Opponuniiies are almusl limitless (Cir faults to occur as a result 0' ubscurs lailures. and to try and caver all evenlualitles would require a book, Indeed, a number hzvs bean written on the sumaci, Successful troubleshooting IS "Oi a mysieiiuus 'black art' but (he application or a bit of knowledge combined Wllh a sysiematic and logical approach to me problem Approach any troubleshooting by first accurately identifying the symptnm and than checking through the list 1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start A Starter motor doesn't rotate ,l Sinner motor rotates but engine does nottum ever starter works but engine won't turn over (seized) No fual iiow Engine flooded No spark or weak spark , Compression low A Stalls sitar starting Rough idle 2 Poor running at low speed 3 Spark weak 'A Fuel/air mixture incorrect J Comoresslcn low D Poor accsieralion 3 Poor running or no power at high speed Cl Firing incorrect I] Fuel/air minute incorrect l'i Comprossvon law _i Knocking or pinking 1: Miscellaneous causes 4 Overheating ii Engina nvemeals Hrinl incorrecl Fuel/air mixture Incorrect Compression too high Engine load excesslva Lubricatiun Inadequate Miscellaneous oausss 5 Clutch problems Clutch slipping ’ Clutch not disengaging completely 6 Gear changing problems E Doesn‘l go into gear. or lever doesn‘t mlurn L. Jumps nut oi gear C Oversalects l V E of possible causes. siarting with the simples! or most obvious arm progressing in stages to tha most complex. Take nothing for granted. but above all apply liberal quantifies oi CDI’I’iITiDi'i SENSE. The main symptom of a lauii ls given in the lext as a major heading uciuw which are listed iiie various systems or areas wnicn may comain me iault. Details of each possible cause icr a iault and the remedial aciiori to be lake” are given, in briai, in the paragraphs below each heading. Furiiier inrcrmation should be sought In the relevant Chapter. 7Abnormal engine noise Knocking or plriklng Piston slap wr rattling Valve noise Other noise 8 Abnormal drivellne noise E Clutch nnlse [l Transmission noise [7 Final drive Vials: DUDE 9 Oil pressure low E Engine lubrication system 1DAbnnnnal frame and suspension noise I Front and miss 5 Shock nbsurbernuisc Ci Brake noise 1 1 Excessive exhaust smoke i] White smuke El Black smoke El Brown smoke lzPoor handling or stability :i Handlebar hard to turn fl Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively 7 Handlebar pulls to one side _l Poor shack absorbing qualities 13 Braking problems '_l Brakes are spongy. don’t hold :1 Brake lever or pedal pulsaies 4] Brakes drag 14 Electrical problems i] Battery dead orwsak 1 l Battery overcharged REF-36 Fault Finding 1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start Starter motor doesn’t rotate i':l Engine kill switch OFF. Fuse blown. Check main fuse and starter circuit fuse (Chapter 9). Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 9). :l Starter maloi detective, Make sure the wiring til the starter is secure. Make sure the Starter relay clicks when the Start button is pushed. Ii the relay cllcks. then the limit is in the wiring or motor. i r Starter relay laulty. Check it according to the procedure in Chap- ter 9 Starter button not contacting. The cantacts could be wet. corroded or dirty. Disassemble and Clean the switch (Chapter 9]. s Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring oonnecfions and harnesses to make sura that they are dry. tight and not corroded. Also check tor broken or lrayed wlres that can cause a short to ground (earth) (see wiring diagram. Chapter 9). L procedure In Chapter 9. Replace the swrtch wrth a new one ii it ls detective Engine kill switch detective. Check tar wet, dirty or corroded contacts. Clean or replace the Switch as necessary (Chapter 9). Wiring to each switch and the switch itsell according to the procedures in Chapter 9. Starter motor rotates but engine dons nat turn over l; Starter clutch detective. Inspect and reualr or renew (Chapter 2). ii Damaged idle or starter gears. Inspect and renew the damaged parts (Chapter 2). Starter works but engine won't turn over (seized) in Seized engine caused by one or more Internally damaged components, Failure due to wear. abuse or lack oi lubrication. Damage can include seized valves. rockers. camshahs. pistons. crankshaft. connecting rod beatings. or transmission gears or bearings. Refer to Chapter 2 for engine dlsassernbly. No fuel flow ND fuel in tank. Fuel tank breather hose obstructed. Fuel lap strainer. or incline filter (XRV models). clogged. Remove the tap and clean it and the filter (Chapter 4). Fuel tap vacuum hose split or detached (XL models). Check the hose. Fuel tap diaphragm split (XL models). Remove the tap and check the diaphragm (Chapter 4). 7i Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line lease and carefully blow through it. , Float needle valve clogged. For both or the valves to be clogged. either a very bad batch at fuel with an unusual additive has been used. or some other foreign material has entered the tank. Many times after a machine has been stored lor many months without iunning, Ins luel turns to a varnish-like liquid and forms deposits 7i 7 l l Ignition (main) switch detective. Check the switch according to the Faulty neutral. side stand (whm titted) or clutch SWItch. Check the on the inlet needle valves and |ets. The carburettors should he removed and overhauled if draining the float chambers doesn't solve the problem. Fuel pump faulty (XRV models). Check the loci pump ilow and renew the pump ii necessary (Chapter 4). Engine flooded lJ El Float height too high. Check as described in Chapter 4. Float needle valve worn or Stuck npen. A piece oi dirt. rust or other deorls (2n cause the valve to seat improperly. causing excess Iual to be admitted to the float chamber, In this case. the float chamber Should be Cleaned and the needle Valve and seat inspected. lf the needle and seat are worn. then the leaking will persist and the parts should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 4). Starting technique incorrect Under normal circumstances (re. ll all the carburettor functions are sound) the machine should Start with little Or he throttle. when the engine is cold. the cliche shauld be operated and the engine started without opening the throttle, When the engine is at operating temperature. only a very slight amount oi throttle should be nemsary. If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel tap OFF or disconnect the vacuum hose (according to model - see Chapter A) and hold the throttle open while cranking the englne. This will allow additional air to reach the cyllndeis. Remember to turn the fuel tap back ON or attach the vacuum hose. Na spark or weak spark Ll L lgnitiun switch OFF. Engine kill swltcll turned to the OFF position. Battery voltage low. Check and recharge the battery as necessary (Chapter 9). Spark plugs dirty. defective or worn out Locals reason tor fouled plugs using spark plug condition chart and follow the plug maintenance procedullc (Chapter 1). Spark plug caps or secondary (HT) wiring laulty. Check condition. Renew either or both components It cracks or deterioration are evident (Chapter 5). Spark plug caps not making good contact Make sure that the plug caps fit snugly over the plug ends. Ignition control unit detective. Check the unit (Chapter 5). Pulse generator coll defective. Check the unit (Chapter 5). Ignition Hr calls detective. Check the coils (Chapter 5). Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by watch corrosion, damage or excessive wear. The switches can be disassembled and cleaned with electrical Contact Cleaner. If cleaning does not help. renew the Switches (Chapter 9]. Wiring shorted or broken between: a) Ignition (main) switch and engine inI switch (or blown ruse) ti) Ignrrion control unit and engine kill switch c) Ignition control unit and Ignition HT coils cl) Ignition HT coils and spark plugs eJ Ignition control unit and pulse generator coil Make sure that all wrrlng connections are clean, dry and tight. Look for chafed and broken wires (Chapters 5 and Si Fault Finding REF-37 1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start (continued) Compression low i i L Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect thelrthreads. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1). Cylinder head(sl not sufficiently tightened down. it a cylinder head is suspected oi being loose. then there’s a chance that the gasket or head is damaged ii the problem has persisted tor any length at time The head nuts/bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence (Chapter 2) Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking pasl the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearanues (Chapter I). (Nllndel’ and/or piston wnrnr Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A loprend overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2). Fistun rings worn. weak. broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes excess carbon deposits or seixures to lorm on the pistons and rings. Top-end overhaul IS necessary (Chapter 2), Piston ring-te-grocvs clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive wear oi the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is necessary (chapter 2). Cylinder head gasketls) damaged. If a head is allowed (0 become loose, Cir ll excesslve carbon build-up on the piston crown and Combustion chamber Causes extremely high compression. the head gasket may leak, Relorquing the head is not always suificient to restore the seat. so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). Cylinder liead(s) warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly tightened head nuts/bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head replacement is necessary (Chapter 2), Valve spring broken or weak. Caused try component lailure or wear; the springs must be renewed (chapter 2). Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a cent valve (irom over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper carcuration) or an accumulation oi carbon deposits on the seat (irom carouration or iuorication problems). The valves must be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced it possible (Chapter 2). Stalls after starting D U improper choke action. Make sure the choke plungers are staying 1n the out position (Chapter 4), ignition malfunction (Chapter 5). Carbursttcr maliunction (Chapter 4). Fuel contaminated. The luel can lae contaminated vvith either dirt or water, Dr Carl change Chemically it tile machine is allowed to sit VD! several months at more. Drain the tank and float chambers (Chapter 4) intake at! leak. Check for loose carburettorvto—lmake manifold connections. loose vacuum gauge adapter screws or hoses (as applicable). or loose caroureltor tops (Chapter 4). Engine idle sps-nr‘l innorrecl Turn idle adjusting screw until the engine dies at the specified rpm (Chapter 1). Rough idle j U ignition mallunction (Chapter 5). idle speed Incorrect (chapter I), Carburettars not synchronised. Adjust carburettors with vacuum gauge or rnenorneter set as described in Chapter 1. Pilot net or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the carburetturs. and Check jet sizes (Chapter 4) Fuel contaminated. The iuel can be contaminated with either din or water, or can change chemically ii the machine is allowed to sit ior several months or more. Drain the tank and lloat chambers (Chapter 4). Intake air leak. Check for loose camurettor-to-lntake msniiold connections. loose vacuum gauge adapter screws or noses (as applicable), or loose carburettor tops (Chapter 4). Ail filter Clogged. Replace the air filter element (Chapter 1). REF-38 Fault Finding 2 Poor running at low speeds Spark weak l_‘ Battery voltage low. Check and recharge cattery (Chapter 9). Ci Spark plugs touled. detective or worn out. nerer to cnapterl (or spark plug maintenance. Spark plug cap or HTwiring detective. Refer to Chapters 1 and 5 (or details on the ignition system. Spark plug caps not making Contact. Make sure they are securely pushed on to the plugs. T Incorrect spark plugs. Wrong type, heat range or cap contiguretlon. Check and install correct plugs Ilsted in Chapter 1. ’7 Ignition control unlt detective (Chapter 5). l1 Pulse generator coil detective (Chapter 5) i] Ignition HT coils detective (Chapter 5). Fuel/air mlxlure incorrect Pilot screws out or adiustment (chapter A). i i Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the carburettors (Chapter 4). Air bleed holes clogged. Remove carburettor and blow out all passages (Chapter 4). Airiiiter clogged. poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1). Air lilter hauslng poorly sealed. Look (or cracks. holes or loose clamps and replace or repalr defective parts. Fuel level too high or too low. Check the level (Chapter 4). Fuel tank breather hose obstructed. Carburattor Intake manifolds loose Check for cracks. breaks. tears or loose clamps. Replace the rubber intake marlilold ioirl‘ts ll split or perished. l3 Incorrect carburettor yet sizes. Check according to the Spectiicotions in Chapter 4. Compression low if) Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1). Cylinder heedrs) not sunicientiy tightened down. ii a cylinder head is suspected of being loose. then there's a chance that the gasket and head are damaged it the problem has persisted (at any length of time. The head nuts/boils should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence (Chapter 2). Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve Is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and adlust the valve clearances (Chapter 1). U Cylinder and/or piston warn. Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. lhls is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end uverhaui is necessary (Chapter 2) i l Piston rings worn. weak. broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicates lubrication or carbutatinri problem that causes excess carbon deposlts or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top-end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2). Li ,c Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused try excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is necessary (Chapter 2), l:l Cylinder head gaskefls) damaged. it a head is allowed to become loose. or ii excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression. the head gasket may leak. Retorquirig the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal. 50 gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). F Cylinder head(s) warped. This is caused Dy overheating or improperly tightened head nuts/bolts. Machine shop resurlacing or head replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). l] Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component iaiiure or wear; the springs must be renewed (Chapter 2). )3 Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over—revving or improper valve adjustment). burned valve or sea! (improper carburatlon) orsn accumulation orcarcon deposits on the seat [from carbumtton, Iubricatlon problems). The valves must be cleaned and/0r replaced and the seats serviced If possible (Chapter 2). Poor acceleration l_| Carburettors leaking ordirty. Overhaul the carburettors (Chapter 4). 11 Timing not advancing. The pulse generator coil or the ignition control unit may be delect'we. It so. they must be replaced with new ones. as they can‘t be repaired. carburettor: nut synchronised. Adjust them wlih a vacuum gauge set or manometer (Chapter 1). Engine Oil viscosity two high. Uslng a heavier ail than that recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine. Brakes dragglng. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake piston seals, or from a warped disc or oent axle. Repair as nemary (Chapter 7). l] Fuel flow restricted. Check the tap and its filter. and all the hoses from the tank; on XHV models also check the In-llne lual filter, ii the breather hose ls blocked a vacuum can form in the tank Whlch will restrict (low. Fuel pump iiow rate insufficient (XRV models). Check the pump (Chapter 4). Cl El El Miscellaneous causes MDdIiIL‘atton la exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust systems cause the engine to run leaner. which make them run hotter. When installing an accessory exhaust system, always check whether different carburettor jet sizes an? needed and rejet the cerburettors accordingly. it necessary (see Chapter 4). Ditch the best way to determine this is by running the bike on a uyho. Fault Finding REF-39 3 Poor running or no power at high speed Firing incorrect ’ Alr liiier restricted. Clean or replace iiiter (chapter 1). Spark plugs ioulsd. detective or worn out. See Chapter l tor spark plug maintenance T Spark plug caps or nr Wll'lrlg detective. See Chapters 1 and 5 ior details otthe ignition system. Spark plug caps not in good contact (Chapter 5). Incorrect spark plugs. Wrong type. heat range or cap configuration. Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter i. Ignition control unit defective (Chapter 5). ignition HT coils detective (Chapter 5). T _ “l‘l Fuel/air mixture incorrect 3 Main let clogged. Dirt. water or other contaminants can clog the main jets. Clean the fuel lap tiller. the ill-line tllter (XFW models), the float Chamber area. and the lets and carburettor orifices (Chapter A). Main let wrong size. Check the jet sizes according to the Specifications in Chapter A. The standard jetting is ror sea level atmospheric pressure and oxygen content — ll you are constantly running at high altitude (where the oxygen content oi the air is reduced). the mixture will be attested. Thrallle shaflsto-carburettor body clearance excessive. Refer to Chapter A ioi inspection and part replacement procedures. Alr bleed holes clogged. Remove and overhaul carburettors (Chapter 4). Airliner clogged. poorly sealed. or missing (Chapter 1). Air illter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks. holes or loose clamps, and replace or repalr detective pans. Fuel iavcl too high or too low. Check the float height (Chapter 4). Fuel tank breather hose obstructed. ll the breather hose is blocked a vacuum can iorm in the tank which will rsstrici flow. carburettor intake manifolds loose. Check tar cracks. breaks. tears or loose clamps. Replace ihe rubber intake manlioids ii they are split or perished (Chapter 4). D . i :ll: fll‘l campresslon low Ll Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads. Reinstall and tightarl to the specified torque (Chapter 1). Cylinder nead(s) not suilicientiy tightened down. It a cylinder head is suspected or being loose. then there's a chance that the gaskei and head are damaged lithe problem has persisted for any length at time. The head nuts/bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence (Chapter 2). Li lmpropsr valve clearance. This means ll‘iat the Valve is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and adiust the valve clearances (Chapter 1). Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2). U Piston rings worn. weak. broken. or sticking. Broker! or sticking piston rings usually Indicate a lubrication Dr carburation problem that causes excess Carbon deposits or seizures to farm on the pistons and rings. Top-end overhaul is necessary [Chapter 2i. Piston ringvto-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive wear or Ihe piston ring lands Piston replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). Cylinder head gaskells) damaged. lfa head is allowed to become loose. or it excssive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression. Ihe head gasket may leak. Relorquing the head is not always suriicient to restore the seal. so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). l1 Cylinder head(s) warped. This is caused by cvemaating or Improperly tightened head nuts/bolts Machine shop resurracing or head replacement is necessary (Chapter 2) Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear, the springs must be renewed (Chapter 2). Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (train over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper oarouratlonl or an accumulation oi carbon deposits on the seat ltrorn corporation. lubrication problems). The valves must be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced It possible (Chapter 2)- Knocking ar pinking Carbon buildrun in combustion chamber. Use of aluel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the Crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the buildup. Otherwise. the cyllnder heads will have to be removed and decarbonlsed (Chapter 2) incorrect or poor quality ruel. Old or improper grades or fuel can cause detonation. This causes the knocking or pinking sound. Drain old iuel and always use the recommended that grade. Spark plug host range Incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates the plug host range is too hot, The plug in sheet becomes a glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug (Chapter 1). improper air/tuei mixture. This will cause the cylinders to run not. which leads to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this lmbalanca. See Chapter 4. Miscellaneous causes ._l Throttle valve doesn't open lully. Adjust the throttle grip l'reaplay (Chapter i J. Li Clutch slipping. May be caused by an incorrectly adjusted cable (see Chapter 1), or loose or worn clutch components. Fleler to Chapter 2 tor Clutch overhaul procedures. C Timing not advancing, Check as described in Chapter 5. l; Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier on than the one recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine. El Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has enlereu the brake piston seals or lrorn a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary. D Fuel flow restricted. Check the tap and its filter, and all the hoses from the tank; on XRV models check the Insllne fuel llltsr lithe breather hose is blocked avacuum Can ion“ in the tank which Will r§trict flow. 7 Fuel pump flow rate lnsufllcient (XRV models). Check the pump (Chapter 4). fl Mooiricailon to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust systems cause the engine to run leaner. which make them run hotter. When installing an accessory exhaust systh. always check whether different carburettor lot sizes firs needed and reiiet the carourettors accordingly. it necessary [see chapter 4). onen the host way to determine this is by running the bike on a Dyna. lj [l l] J REF-40 Fault Finding 4 Overheating Engine overheats l i D U Coolant level low check and add coolant (Chapter 1). Leak in Cooling system. Check cooling system hoses and radiator tor leaks and other damage. Repair or replace pans as necessary (Chapter 3). Thermostat sticking closed Check and replace as descrlbed in Chapter 3. Faulty radiator cap. Remove the cap and have it pressure tested. Coolant passages clogged. Have the entire system drained and flushed. than refill with fresh coolant Water pump detective. Remove the pump and check the components (Chapter at Clogged radiator (ins. Clean them by olowmg compressed air through the (ins trom the backside. and straighten any bent tins that restrict air flow. Cooling tan or fan switch rault (Chapter 3). Firing incorrect Spark plugs louled. detective or worn out. See Chapter 1 tor spark plug maintenance. Incorrect spark plugs. ignition control unit delective (Chapter 5i. Faulty ignition HT culls (Chapter 5). Fuel/air mixture incorrect Ell] il l7 Ci Main let clogged. Dirt, water or other contaminants can clog the main jets. Ciean the iuel tap litter. the in»llne tilter (XRV models), the float chamber area. and the lets and carburettor orifices (Chapter 4). Main jot wrong size. Check the (at sizes according to the Specificatiuns in Chapter 4. The standard letting is lDr sea level atmospheric pressure and oxygen content ~ it you are constantly running at high altitude (where the oxygen content or the air is reduced). the mixture will be affected. Throttle sllaflrwrcarburettur body clearance excessive. Fleier to Chapter 4 (or inspection and pan replacement procedures. Air hieert holes clogged Remove and overhaul carourettors (Chapter 4). All [liter clogged. poorly sealed. or missing (Chapter 1). Air (liter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks. holes or loose clamps. and replace or repair detective ports. Fuel level too high or too low. Check the "08! height (Chapter 4). Fuel tank breather hose obstructed. |f the breather hose is bluCkId a vacuum can form In the tank which will restrict flow. Carburettar Intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks. breaks. tears or loose clamps. Replace the manor intake manifolds it they are split or perished (Chapler 4). Compression too high . Carbon build- -up in combustion chamber. Use or aiuel additive El that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the ouiio. up. Otherwise, the cylinder heads will have to es removed and decaroonised (Chapter 2i- Improperly machined head surtace or installation of incorrect gasket during engine assembly. Engine load excessive l: E Clutch slipping. Can be caused by damaged. loose or worn clutch components. Refer to Chapter 2 for overhaul procedures Engine Oil level too high The addition oi Ion much oil will Cause pressurlsation oi the crankcase and ineitlcient engine operation. Check Specifications and drain to proper level (Chapter 1). Engine all viscosity too high. Using a heavier on than the one recommended in Chaplerl can damage the oil pump or lubrication system as well as cause drag on the engine. Brakes dragging. 0n disc brakes this is usually caused by debris which has entered the Drake piston seals. or from a warped disc or Dent axle. On a drum brake this is usuaiiy caused by a seized brake opemting mechanism Lubrication inadequate Engine oil level too low. Friction Caused by intermittent lack oi lubrication or "am all that is overworked can cause overheating The oil provides a deflrilte cooling iunction in the engine. Check the all level (Chapter 1]. Poor quality engine oil or incorrect viscosity or type. Oil is rated not only according to viscosity but also according to type, Some oils are not rated high enough ior use in this engine. Check the SpeCitications section and Change to the correct all (Chapter 1). Faulty oil pump causing reduced pressure in system. Check the pump icr wear (see Chapter 2). Miscellaneous causes D Modification to exhaust system. Mosl aftermarket exhaust systems cause the engine to run leaner. which make them run hotter. When installing an accessory exhaust system. always check whether diflerem carburettor lot sizes are needed and total the Carburettors accordingly. it necessary (see Chapter at. Orton the but way to determine this is by running the bike on a Dyno. Fault Finding REF-4t 5 Clutch problems clutch sllpping ‘ Clutch cable incorrectly adjusted (see Chapter i). ; Friction plates worn or warped. Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2). Plain plates warped (Chapter 2). Clutch springs broken or weak. Old or heat-damaged (lrom slipping clutch) springs should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 2). : Clutch release mechanism defective. Replace any detective parts (Chapter 2). I Clutch centre or housing unevenly worn. This causes Improper engagement of the plates. Replace the damaged or worn parts (Chapter 2). Clutch not disengaging compleme 1 Clutch cable incorrectly adjusted (see Chapter 1) oriautty. The inner cable could be seizing in outer cable. caused by dirt. kinks or lncorract routing. Check the Cable and renew it necessary (see Chapter 2) )7 Clutch plates warped or damaged This will cause clutch drag. which In turn will cause the machine to creep, Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2). :l l“) 6 Gear changing problems Clutch spring tension uneven. Usually caused by a saggeo or broken spring. Check and replace the springs as a set (Chapter 2). E l Engine oil deteriorated. Old. thin. worn out all will not provide proper lubrication for the plates. causing the clutch to drag. Replace the all and litter (Chapter 1). j Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than recommended in Chapter t can cause the plates to stick together. putting a drag on the engine. Change to the cancel weight OII (Chapter 1). l Clutch housing guide seized on input shalt. Lack or lubr'lcatlom severe wear or damage can cause me guide to some on the shalt. Overhaul oi the clutch. and perhaps transmission, may be necessary to repair the damage (Chapter 2). D Clutch release mechanlsm defectlve. Overhaul the mmpnnents In the clutch cover (Chapter 2) l‘l Loose clutch centre nut. Causes housing and centre misalignment putting a drag on the engine. Engagement adjustment continually varies, Overhaul the clutch aesemon (Chapter 2) Doesn’t go into gear or lever doesn't return D Clutch not disengaging. See above. 7i Saleem? lorkls) bent, worn or seized. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2). l] Goarcharlge shaft bent. Remove the gearchange mechanism and check the shaft and all components (see Chapter 2). Gearls) stuck on shart Most (men caused by a lack oi lubrication or excesslve wear in transmlsstarl bearlngs arid bushings. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2). , Selectordrum blnding. Caused by lubrication lailura or excessive wear. Replace the dmm and bearing (Chapter 2). Gearchange lever return spring weak or broken (Chapter 2). Cearchange lever broken. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft, Caused by allowrng the lever to get loose. Replace necessary pans (Chapter 2). GearChange mechanism stopper arm broker) or worn. Full engagement and rotary movement of selector drum results. Replace the amt (Chapter 2). Elli! : D a Stopper arrn spring broken Allows arm to heat. causing sporadic gearchange operation. Replace spring (Chapter 2). u Cearchange mechanism selector arm broken or worn. or missing pins on selector drum. Remove the gearchange mechanism and check the arm and all components (see Chapter 2). Jumps out It! gear Ll Selector torklsl or selector 11mm tracks warn Dr damaged. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2]. 7‘ Gear groovels] Wain. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2) Ll Gear clogs nrdog slots worn or dama'ed. The gears should be Inspected and replaced. NO attempt should be made to service the worn parts. Overselects Stopper arm spring weak or broken (Chapter 2). , Gearehenge shaft return spring post broken or dlslorled (Chapter 2). REF-42 Fault Finding 7 Abnormal engine noise Knocking or pinking , Carbon build up In Combustion chamber. Use oi a fuel additive lhzl wlll dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to ll’le piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build~ up. minimise. the cylinder heads Wlll have to he removed and decarbpnlsed (Chapter 2). : Incorrect or poor quallty fuel. Old or improper iuel can Cause detonation. This causes the knocking or pinking sound. Draln the old luel and always use the recommended grade tuel (Chapter A). 7 Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation Indicates thatthe plug heat range is too hot. The plug in eflecl becomes a glow plug, raising Cylinder temperatures Install the proper heat range plug (Chapter 1). , Improper air/fuel mixture. This will Cause the cylinders to run hot and lead to detonation, Clogged iets or an air leak can Cause this imbalance. See Chapter 4. Piston slap or rattling , Cyllnoor to piston clearance excessive. Caused by improper assembly inspect and overhaul top- -end pans (Chapter 2). ,l Connecting rod bent. Caused by over-revving. trying to start a badly (loaded engine or Item ingesting a torsion object into the combustion chamber. Replace the damaged parts (Chapter 2). Piston pin or piston pin bore worn or seized lrorn wear or lack oi lubrication. Replace oamagea parts (Chapter 2). Piston rlng(sl worn. broken or sticking. Overhaul the top—end (Chapter 2). Plslon seizure damage. Usually lrom lack oI lubrication or overheating. Replace the pistons and cylinder block with new ones. as necessary (Chapter 2). 8 Abnormal driveline noise E Connecting rod upper or lower end clearance excessive. Caused by excessive wear or lack oi lubrication Replace worn parts with new ones. Valve noise U Incorrect valve Clearances. Adjust the clearances by referring to Chapter 1. . Valve spring broken or weak. Check and replace weak valve spnngs (Chapter 2). B Camshaflls) or cyllnder head(s) worn or damaged. Lack oi lubrication at high rpm Is usually the cause ol damage Insulncierit oil or iailuie to Change the oil at the recommended intervals are the met causes. Since there are no replaceable hearings In the head. the head Itseli and/or the Camshaft will have to be replaced it there is excessive wear or damage (Chapter 2). Other noise l ’l Cylinder heed gasketls) leaklng l: Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection. Caused by improper Ilt oi pipe or loose exhaust flange. All exhaust lasteners should be tightened evenly and carerully. Failure to do this will lead to a leak. ' Crankshaft runout excessive. Caused by a bent crankshaft (lrom over-revving) or damage (torn an upper Cylinder component lailure. Can also be attributed to dropping the machine on either of lhe crankshaft ends. Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten all engine mount butts (Chapter 2). Crankshait bearings worn (Chapter 2), D Camchains. guide blades or tensioner blades worn. Replace according to the procedure In Chapter 2, ’l Cemchain tensioner laiiura (Chapter 2). Clutch noise Fl Clutch outer drum/faction plate clearance excessive (Chapter 2). D Loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and/or bolts (Chapterz), Transmission noise ‘ Bearings worn. Also includes the possiblllty that the shafts are worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2). Gears worn or Chipped (Chapter 2). , Engine oil level too low. Causes a whine or howl irom transmission. Also arrests engine power and clutch operation (Chapter 1]. Final drive noise L; Chain not adjusted properly (Chapter 1) Front or rear sprocket loose Tighten Iasteners (Chapter 6) Sprockets worn Renew sprockets (Chapter 6). lit] ‘lll , Metal chips )arnrned in gear teeth. Probably pieces from a broken fee” Spmd‘e‘ WW:- “7"" Spri‘ke‘s (Cf‘ap‘e' 5)- clutch, gear or selector mechanism that were picked up by the ”:53 ‘1’ W°"‘ ’9” Wde‘ég" 5“; 9‘ ““9""9 {lemma Cheek gears This will cause early bearing Iailure (Chapter 2). 5“ “P a“ as "95“ l 59'” )- 9 on pressure low Engine lubrication system Q Camshatt or )ournais worn. Excessive weer causing drop in oil : Englne all level low, Inspect tor leak or other problem causmg low oil level and add recommended oil (Dally (pie-ride) checks). i, Engine oil viscosity too low. Very old. thin oil or an improper weight or oil used in the engine. Change to correct all (Chapter 1). l» Engine ell pump deiemlve. blocked ull strainer gauze or failed reiier valve Carry cut oil pressure check (Chapter 1). pressure. Renew Camshaft and/or/cyllnder head. Abnormal wear could be caused by oil starvation at high rpm ricm low oil level or improper weight or type oi all (Chapter 1). l] Crankshaft and/or bearings worn. Same problems as above. Check and renew crankshaft and/or bearings (Chapter 2), Fault Finding REF-43 10 Abnormal frame and suspension noise Front and noise i: Low iluid level or lmpropervlscoslty oil in forks. This can sound like sporting and is usually accompanied by irregular lork action (Chapter 6). ; Spring(s) weak or broken. Makes a clicking or scraping sound. Fork oil. when drained. Will have a lot 0' metal particles in ll (Chapters). i Steering need bearlngs loose or damaged Clicks when braking. Check and ad)ust or replace as necessary (Chapters 1 and 6). Fork yokes loose. Make sure all clamp pinch bolts are tightened to the specmecl torque (Chapter 5). Fork lube Dent. A possibility it iiiautiine has been in an accident. Replace tube(s) with new pne(s) (Chapter 5). LJ Front axle or axle clamp nuts loose. Tighten them to the specified torque (Chapter 7). LOOSE or worn wheel bearings. Check and renew as needed (Chapter 7). Shock absorber noise a Fluid level Incorrect, Indicates a leak caused by defective seal SHOCK will be Covered Willi oil. Replacement parts are available [or some of the models Covered ~ SEEK advice on repair itcim a Honda dealer or suspenSIon specialist (Chapter 6). Detective shock absorber wuh Internal damage. This is in the body oi the shock and Can't be remedied. The shock must be replaced with a new one (Chapter 6). Bent or damaged shock body. Replace the shock with a new one (Chapter 6). l Loose or worn suspension linkage components. Check and replace as necessary (Chapter 6). L Loose coils in suspension assembly. Check all bolts and tighten to the specified torque settings (Chapter 6). Brake noise - disc brake iii Worn brake pads — it there is no friction material left there will be a 11 Excessive exhaust smoke metalaoiiametal grinding sound and the brake disc will be damaged. l, Squeal caused by pad shim not installed or positioned correctly (where lined) (Chapter 7). ; Squeal caused by dust on brake pads. Usually lound in combination with glazed pacts. Clean using til-aka cleaning solvent (Chapter 7). Ll Contamination Cl brake pads. Oll. brake fiutd or dirt causlrtg brake lo chatter or squeal. Renew the pads (Chapter 7). l, Pads glazed. Caused by excessive heat trorn prolonged use or rrom contamination. Do not use sandpaper. emery cloth. Caitorundurn Cloth or any other abrasive lo roughen the pad surtaces as abrasives writ stay in the pad material and damage the disc. A very line llat file or wire brush can be used. but pad renewal is recommended as a Cure (Chapter 7). )1 Disc warped. Can cause a chattering. clicking or intermittent squeal. Usually accompanied by a pulsating lever and uneven braking. Renew the disc (Chapter 7). g Loose nr worn wheel bearings. Check and renew as needed (Chapter 7). Blake noise — drum rear brake _ Worn brake shoes — ii there is no motion material left there will be a inetal~on-metal grinding sound. and the brake drurn will be damaged Ll Squeal Caused by dust on brake shoes. Usually found in Combination with glazed shoes, Clean using broke cleaning solvent (Chapter 7) Contamination Oi brake shoes. Oil of dirt Causing brake to chatter or squeal. Renew the shoes (Chapter 7). ; Shoes glazed. Caused by excessive heat horn prolonged use or lrorrl contamination. Do not use sandpaper, emery cloth. Carboruridum Cloth or any other abrasive to roughen the friction material surface as abrasives will stay In the material and damage the drum. A very ilne flat file or Wire brush can be used. but Sl’lOfi renewal is recommended as a cure (Chapter 7). L‘ White smoke i Piston oii ring worn. The ring may be broken or damaged. causing all from the crankcase to be pulled past the piston into the combustion chamber. Replace the rings With new ones lChaoter 2). lj Cylinders worn. cranked. or scored. Caused by overheating or all starvation. Check the cylinder bores. lubrication system and cooling system (see Chapters 2 and a), '1 Valve stern oil eeel damaged or worn, Replace oil seals with new ones (Chapter 2). : Valve guide worn. Periorrn a Complete valve job (Chapter 2). to Engine oil level too high, which causes the oil to be lorced past the rings. Drain oil to the proper level (Chapter 1), l‘l Head gasket broken aetween oil return and Cylinder. Causes oil to be pulled into the Combustion Chamber Replace the head gasket and Check the head for warpage (Chapter 2), Abnormal crankcase pressurisation, which ioices oil past the nngs. Clogged breather is usually the cause. Black smoke L Air {liter stopped. Clean or replace the element (Chapter l), [l Main jet too large or loose. Compare the lot size to the Specifications (Chapter 4), _‘ Choke cable or olungers stuck, causing iual to be pulled through choke circuit (Chapter 4). 1 Fuel level [no blight Check and adjust the float heighttsi as necessary (Chapter 4). l’l Float needle valve held 0" needle seat. Clean the float chambers and lust line and replace the needles and seals it necessary (Chapter 4). Brown smoke l7 Main iet too small or clogged. Lean condition caused by wrong size main tel or by a restricted orifice. Clean float chambers and lets and Compare (at size to Specifications (Chapter 4). Fuel ilow insufficient - float needle valve stuck Closed due to chemical reaction wtth old iuel; fuel level incorrect: restricted fuel line; iauily iuel pump (Chapter 4). Carburettor intake inaniiold clamps loose (Chapter 4). Air litter poorly sealed or not installed (Chapter i). r Ute REF-44 Fault Finding 12 Poor handling or stability Handlebars hard to turn l‘l D Steering head bearing adlitster nut too tight. Check ad)ustment as described in Chapter 1. Bearings damaged. Roughness can be felt as the bars are turned lrom sldi—xkxsidet Renew bearings and races (Chapter 6). Races dented or worn. Deming results rrorn wear in only one position [9 9,. straight ahead). from a CDIiiS|On or illltirtg a pothole Cr (torn drupping the machine. Renew races and bearings (Chapter 6 Steering stern lubrication inadequate. Causes are graasa getting hard from age or being washed out by high pressure car washes. Disassemble steering head and repack bearings (Chapter 6), Steering stern bent, Caused by a collision, hitting a pothole or by dropping the machine. Replace damaged part. Don't try to straighten the steering stern (Chapter 5). Front tyre air pressure too low (Chapter 1). Handlebars shake or vibrates excessively Elli Tyres worn or out at balance (Chapter 7). Swingfllm bearings worn. Henew worn bearings (Chapter 6). Wheel rimls) warped or damaged. Inspect wheels for runout (Chapter A Wheel bearings worn Worn (rent or rear wheel bearings can Cause poor (lacking. Worn from hearings will cause wobble (Chapter 7). Handlebar clamp belts loose (Chapter 6). Fork yoke baits loose. Tighten them [0 the specrlied torque (Chapter 6). Engine mouming bolts loose. Will Cause excessive vibration with increased engine rpm (Chapter 2), 13 Braking problems Handlebar pulls to one side l7 Frame bent. Definitely suspect this li the machine has been dropped. May or may not be accompanied by Cracking neartne befldt Renew the frame [Chapter 6). Wheels out or alignment. Caused by improper location or axis spacers or ircm bent steering stem or frame (Chapter 6). Swingam-l bent ortwistedl Caused by age (metal fatigue) or impact damage. Renew the swingarrn (Chapter 6). Steering stem bent. Caused by impact damage or by dropping the motorcycle Renew the steering stem (Chapter 6). Fork tube bent. Disassemble the iorks and replace the damaged parts (Chapter 5). Fork oil level uneven. Check and add or drain as necessary (Chapter 6). Poor shock absorbing qualities Too hard: 3) Fork oil level excess/vs (Chapter 5). b) Fork oil VlSCDSilV too irrgh. Use a lighter all (see the Specifications in Chapter 6). c) Fork tube bent Causes a Ilarstr. sticking reeling (Chapter 6), d) Fork internal damage (Chapter 6). e) Shack shaft or body ban! or damaged (Chapter 5), 0 Shock internal damage. g) Tyre pressure too hlgh (Chapter 1). Too salt: 5} Folk or snack ail insufficient and/or leaking (Chapter 5). b) Fork oil level too low (Chapter 6). c) Fork oil irrscosity too light (Chapter 5). d) Fork springs weak or broken (Chapter 5), e) Shock internal damage or leakage (Chapter 6). Brakes are spongy, dnn’t hold - disc brakes :1 Air in brake llne. Caused by inattonuon to master cyllnder rlilid level or by leakage. Locate problem and bleed brakes (Chapter 7). Brake pads or disc worn (Chapters l and 7). Brake iliiid leak. See paragraph 1. Contaminated pads, Caused by contamination wlth oll. grease. brake "Him etc. Renew the pads. Clean disc thoroughly with brake cleaner (Chapter 7). [l Li D Q Brake caliper bolts loose (Chapter 7). Brake caliper slldar plns sticking. causing caliper to bind. Lubricate the slider pins and renew the dust boars it they have cracked (Chapter 7). Wheel warped or eiherwree damaged (Chapter 7). Wheat bearings damaged or worn (Chapter 7), Brakes drag - dlsc brakes Master cylinder piston seized. Caused by wear or damage to D Brake fluid deteriorated. Fluid is old orcontaminated Drain 7‘ . system. replenish with new ituid and bleed the system (Chapter 7). i Emmgfymdj’ bf‘gci‘cnip‘ér It d I b an ‘ 7 Ll Master cylinder internal parts worn or damaged causing (laid to 7 Bever _y m: I: -C ecedlzlv? an H "Clalljl an 9'1 i" bypass (Chapter 7)_ ,r rake caliper in s. aus y inadequate U rication o 3 mar u Master cylinder bore scratched by lorelgn material or broken pins (Chapler7i- _ ‘ spring. Repair or renew master cylinder (Chapter 7). J 55%: flag)???" failed triggegcfised by war or Ingestion El Disc warped. Renew the disc (Chapter 7). n \ pa erlura sea 9 er . _ 3 Brake pad damaged. Pad materiel separated rrorn backing plate. Brake lever or pedal pulsates - disc brakes tisoaiiy caused by taully manufacturing process or iron contact i] Disc warped. Renew disc (Chapter 7). with chemicals. Renew pads (Chapter 7). fl Axle bent. Renew axle (Che er 7 . a Pads improperl installed (Chapter 7) y 1 4 Electrical problems Battery dead or weak a Altematcr stator coil open or shorted (Chapter 9). , . 1 Wiring taulty. Wiring grounded (canned) or connections loose trl i_l Battery reulty. Caused by sulphated plates whtcii'are snorted lemme”, charging m HQWHQ aim": “Mum 9)- throiign sedimentation. Also, broken battery terminal making only occasional contact (Chapters). On non MF batteries, matte sure Battery overcharged the electrolyte loyal is correct (Chapter 1). U R mam” . . . rootiiier detective. Overcnar in is noticed when batte (1 Battery cables making poor contact (Chapter 9). g: excessive‘y warm (mam, 9)_ 9 9 W D '53:: :Tefifizfafje‘ifig 3mm" °f "‘9” “"393 "9"” °' 1 Battery detective. Replace battery wllh a new one (Chapter 9). L1 Ignition (main) switch detective. Switch other grounds (earths) 7‘ Bane” “”5”“ “3° m" ng ”De “'5‘“ ”5”" internally or falls to shut of! system Renew the switch (Chapter at Regulator/rectifier defective (Chapter 9). manufacturer's specitred ampahutir battery to handle charging load (Chapter 9)